Simple Thoughts on Simple Maintenance

(Note: This list is not ment to be all-inclusive.)

Batteries:

Make sure your battery is in good condition, especially before the fall and winter months. Unless you have a place to plug your car in during the winter, the glow plugs will drain a lot of current for every cycle they perform. A strong battery will ensure easy winter starts. Diesel engines obviously require more current than a spark ignition vehicle, so don't try to save a few bucks and buy a battery for a Yugo. Wal-Mart apparently sells Energizer batteries for VW Diesels at around $60.00.

Glow Plugs:

Ensure that your glow plugs are in good condition as well.

Oil Changes:

Oil:

I recommend changing the engine oil every 5000 miles for stop and go city driving or 10,000+ miles for combined driving. Make sure you buy a decent quality, diesel rated oil, like CG-4, and CH-4. CH-4 is the most current rating that took effect on December 1, 1998. (You can visit the API oil rating web page to get detailed information as to what the ratings mean.) CH-4 is also designed for the current TDI engines.

Synthetic oil is the best choice if you're willing to pay the price for it. Synthetic provides better lubrication for turbo-diesel engines. Popular synthetics are Mobil 1, Mobil Delvac, Amsoil, and Chevron Delo 400 to name a few. VW recently sent a service bulletin to the dealerships regarding oil changes on TDI vehciles. Dealers are now supposed to use only Castrol Syntec synthetic in TDI's. This was done by VW to reduce fears among owners of excessive engine wear because of the long change interval that is specified in the manual. If you own a TDI and you are a unsure, ask your dealer what type of oil they are using in your engine. Many uneducated dealerships have been using a standard 10W30 gasoline rated oil, which is NOT a good idea in a TDI engine. Don't let a dealership wreck your expensive engine by not knowing what they're doing!

Oil Filters:

If you are doing your own changes, use a decent OEM quality filter. This includes names such as Bosch, or Mann. Don't go cheap and buy an orange Fram filter. Fram made filters have been known to fail on VW diesel engines. For the extra couple of dollars, I'd highly recommend that you get yourself a German filter. If you can't find a Bosch or Mann at an independent shop or a parts store, go to the dealer and get one. However, dealers will charge a lot for a filter, so try to avoid them.

Timing Belt Replacement:

The timing belt should be changed every 4 years or 50,000 miles. Failure to do this could result in a broken belt, which will end up costing a lot of money to repair. Because of the high compression ratios used on the engines (TDI = 19.5), if the belt breaks, pistons will get to know the valves a lot better, and you'll be out some money. Also, replace your drivebelts at the same time as the timing belt. You might as well do it all at once.

Fuel Filter Replacement:

Change your fuel filter every 3 years or 20,000 miles. This is a fairly simple job, just remove the hoses off the old one, and then remove it from the bracket and put the new one in. It's also a good idea to write the mileage and the date that you're changing the filter on it in permanent marker.

Some people have said it's a good idea to pre-fill the new filter with ATF. I don't see how this good be a great idea, so I won't comment on it. However, it is a good idea to use your old filter to transfer some diesel over to the new one. This way, you'll have some fuel in the new filter and should be able to avoid hard-starting problems.

After you get your new filter connected properly, crank the ignition. It'll take a few tries as the filter gets primed, but eventually it'll start (and smoke a bit as it starts). Your fuel filter is now changed.

Cooling system maintenance:

Do a cooling system flush every 2 years with new, phosphate free ethylene-glycol coolant and water, even though VW says this is lifetime antifreeze. Long life coolant is not supposed to be used on older cooling systems because of different metals used in the cooling system parts. Also, replace your radiator hoses every 4 years or 60,000 miles to avoid broken hoses on the side of the highway.

Under-Car Rubber:

Buy a can of silicone spray to keep your under car rubber in shape. Every time you do an oil change, spray the C.V. boots and any rubber suspension bushings with the silicone spray. The rubber will absorb the spray and it'll keep the rubber from drying out prematurely. Big savings when you don't have to keep replacing C.V. boots.


Exterior Maintenance:

Washing:

Wash your car about once a week with a decent car wash detergent, not dish detergent. Wash it in the shade, and dry it properly to avoid water spots. In the winter, go to the coin wash and hose the salt off whenever you feel the water won't instantly freeze on your car.

Wax your car at least twice per year, or whenever the water stops beading. I like to use synthetic waxes, but use whatever non-abrasive wax you want. Don't worry about waxing it in the winter, but I suppose you could always use the spray wax that's offered at the car wash.

Rust Prevention:

Door Panels:

If you have an older car, make sure the plastic door panels are in good condition. Over time, the factory panels will shrink, and water will leak inside the car through the door panels. This will cause the floorpans to start rotting, and lead to even bigger problems the longer you let it go. Pull off the trim panel and check the condition of your plastic if you've never looked at it before. Pull the old plastic out, and scrape off any old adhesive with a putty knife / scraper. Clean all the bonding areas with paint thinner initially, then finish cleaning with some rubbing alcohol. For the new plastic, I used #6 mil vapour barrier, but winterizing window plastic, or even the plastic from a new mattress and box spring set should work okay. Cut the panels around all the obstacles, and seal it in with silicone. This should form a good, water-tight seal and should stop water from leaking inside.

Also, check your weatherstripping around the windows. Over time, if the rubber hasn't been taken care of, it'll shrink considerably and leave massive gaps that water loves to go down into (Darn that gravity!) Either buy new weatherstripping, or be a crazy / cheap person and make yourself a mould and make your own filler strips out of silicone. The first step in stopping water from getting into the doors is to have good window weatherstripping. The door plastic is really the second line of defense, but still just as important.

Potentional Rust Areas:

Anywhere can be a potential problem if the metal has been left bare or moisture has found its way in. On an older car, check the rocker panels, these can be big problems. Also, check your seat tracks, they can easily rot out as well. If you discover any problems, take it to a body shop, or kill a weekend (or a week) and do it yourself. Make sure you do it properly though or rust will keep coming back to haunt you.

Note: Thanks to the VW Diesel Home Page for contributing to some of these suggestive maintenance items.

[This message has been edited by Turbo Steve (edited February 07, 2000).]

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You gentlemen sure have a way with words - don't yuh?

Didn't think those maintenance suggestions were such an eye opening experience for you!

[This message has been edited by Turbo Steve (edited February 07, 2000).]

One comment about the Rust prevention.

Becarefull not to do anything that will void the 12 year corrosion garantee! Some undercoatings will void it, and if you ignore a ding it will void it. In somecases if you touchup the ding yourself it will void it.

I know of one instance where the 12 year corrosion came in to play and my friend was very happy with the results.

word of caution when dealing with the body and rust. . .

Good Thought!

Hey, that's a great post and alot of good information. I appreciate it!

BTW, I think the undercoat on my two TDI is one of the best that I have ever seen, should last an awful long time!

I like the silicone spray idea.
I'll look around for some of that.

GeWilli, can you elaborate on the corrosion warranty? I have this little rust spot above the driver and was going to let the dealer know to document it when I bring it in for the freebie brake fluid change in two weeks. I didn't get a ding or rock there so it was a flaw in the plating process, as far as I can tell.

It is my understanding that the VW 12 year rust guarantee applies only if the rust goes all the way through the metal. Surface rust is not covered.

It is very possible for your car to look like a rust bucket, and yet VW will not pay for the repairs.

As soon as I got my car I took it to Ziebart for additional rust proofing. My family has good experiences with Ziebart.

Peter, I can't elaborate verbatim about the protection a the moment. VW might have something about it on their web site, but then again it doesn't seem part of the national ad campain.

I'll give them a quick call, see if I can get specifics.

My friend has a Eurovan. He had some rust spots develop on the body and VW fixed them for free. That is the gist of what happened.

Checking with VW on the phone now, this is the worst service on the phone I have received! The music is bad, very bad, da da da da DAAAAA, da da da da DAAAAA, da da da da DAAAAA, DA DA DA DA DA, da da da da DAAAAA, damn flute is horrible, can't take it. . . Gonna hang up, WAIT THEY ANSWERED!!!!

Teh poop on the Corrosion is:

models from 86-98 have a 6 year unlimited mile protection
99-00 have 12 year unlimited mile protection.

One note of caution is that they only cover rust that develops from the inside. Neglected stone-chips, and other things are not covered.

To be eligible for coverage you must bring your car to a VW dealer for inspection by the Dealer's company Service Rep. It sounds like either you make an appointment when this guy is going to be around or you leave it for a while.

Hope that clears things up for everyone. Glad I got the 99, 12 years looks good to me.

I was at an arbitration between a guy with a rustbucket acura and his rustproofer: A long read but you'll see how prevention might be better than a so called warranty.

BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU OF CHICAGO AND NORTHERN ILLINOIS

Consumer: Joe Blow Arbitration Number: XXXXXX
Business: ECP Incorporated Date: June 12, 1997


1. Procedural History:

Consumer filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau of Chicago and Northern Illinois in March, 1997. Consumer alleged that he purchased automobile rust protection product from Company and now is unable to recover reimbursement to have rust damage to the automobile repaired. Consumer also alleged that appointment for Companies expert to inspect the damage was canceled and he was advised that his file had been closed. Consumer was unable to resolve situation satisfactorily with Company. Pursuant to Company’s participation in the Better Business Bureau’s Arbitration Program, the case was referred for arbitration. The agreement to arbitrate states:

NATURE OF DISPUTE:
Customer alleges that Company’s rust protection product was applied to his vehicle and that when he attempted to recover reimbursement from Company to have rust damage repaired under the terms of his warranty, Company denied his claim. Customer further alleges that he requested that Company’s independent technical expert inspect his vehicle and re-review his claim, but he was advised that no inspection would be performed and that his file had been closed.

Company alleges it has reviewed Consumer’s claim on more than one occasion and that it has relied on the report of its independent technical advisor which initially indicated that the rust in question was too old to be covered under the warranty. Company also states that the warranty requires that rust be reported within sixty days after it becomes visible in order for a claim to be covered for repairs under the warranty. In this case, the report indicated that the rust was so old that it had to have been visible much longer than sixty days prior to the filing of the first claim.

DECISION SOUGHT:
Customer seeks to have his vehicle fully repaired at Company’s expense.

Company believes that its original position is fair and seeks to be released from further responsibility in this case.

2. Statement of Facts

In 1987, Consumer purchased Company’s aftermarket rustproofing product for his new automobile through his new car dealer. Company’s product was selected despite premium pricing due to strong reputation and warranty.

Rust activity began within one year of the automobiles purchase. In 1995, an initial claim by Consumer was paid by Company. Consumer stated that the claims process was extremely difficult and that the 1995 claim was finally paid without photographs being submitted to or visual inspection being made by Company.

Company’s warranty excludes all but rust perforation damage. The warranty specifies that Consumer must report “.. rust damage which owner believes to be covered by this warranty¼.” within sixty days of first observance. Consumer monitored rust manifesting but did not report it until, in his opinion, he believed it was rust perforation damage.

Instructed by Company to have his automobile inspected by their agent, consumer was told that no inspection would be made and that his file was closed.

Consumer presented photographs of rust damage and estimated repairs cost of $1,231.80. Company stated that because metal is present perforation had not occurred, the rust damage pictured was of surface origin and not covered by warranty. Photograph of right front wheel well shows rust hole. Company stated that size of hole is indication of age and therefore violation of sixty day damage reporting requirement; if rust had been timely reported it would have been evident that it was surface in origin.

ORDER: Having heard the claims and considered the evidence relating to the dispute between the parties, I have determined that Company is required to pay to have the right front wheel well rust hole repaired. To accomplish this, Company shall pay Consumer the amount of five hundred dollars ($500).


4. The above decisions are appropriate for the following reasons

Consumer interpreted the warranty language reasonably by not filing a claim until he believed that the rust was of the type covered by warranty. Rust on the photographs submitted by Consumer is surface rust as defined by Company except for the rust hole in the right front wheel well.

The right front wheel well rust hole may or may not be of surface rust origin as held by Company. Company’s failure to inspect the hole themselves prevents them from being persuasive on this point. Consumer actively attempted to allow inspection by Company, but the company canceled the agreed upon inspection without notice or explanation to Consumer prior to his attempt at initiating the inspection.

The circular language of the warranty concerning timely reporting of observed damage which is “believed” to be covered appears to be a willful attempt by Company at creating a catch-22 loophole where the consumer would always be in violation of the time limit as perforation would probably not be evident until after the limit has elapsed unless the consumer destructively tests all observed rust activity.

Consumer appeared to be a credible witness who had dutifully attempted to fulfil his obligations under the warranty. Consumer’s repeated efforts to remedy the situation and presentation of photographic evidence of the rust damage suggest good faith on his part.

Company’s warranty appears to be constructed purposefully to prevent any recovery for rust damage. A reasonable consumer will not understand what he is actually purchasing in this situation (not much at all!), raising issues of unconscionability under contract law. Since a reasonable consumer will always be disappointed in this situation, this arbitrator suggests review of policy allowing this and similar rust protection services membership in the Better Business Bureau.

Therefore, it is my determination that, based upon a repair to the right rear rocker section in 1995, the company should pay Consumer to allow repairs to the right front wheel well in the amount of five hundred dollars ($500).