ZeroStart coolant heater question

i bought the squarish one on the right, it's a 1500W model. i'm gona try and install in under the baterry place, somewhere inside the left fender.

I was in TSC today and they have the zerostart 41 series heavy duty circulation heaters on sale right now for 53.99, they don't have checkvalves. I don't know if they will work in our application, the heater maybe a little bigger?

Robert

Zero start

Here is a link to the Series 41 Looks like Wingnut has a new source to try.

http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/Files/Series8000Tank-CirculationEngineHeater_US.pdf

According to the PDF file above, it looks like the series 41 heater is a 2000W unit. Kinda overkill for what we need in our TDI's. Any savings gained on the cheaper purchase price will quickly be negated by the higher hydro bills.

Interesting graph on the temperature rise of the different heaters though. Its obvious that there is not much to be gained from more than about 2 1/2 hours of operation. So to save energy, a timer set to come on 2 and a half hours before departure in the morning would be the best practice.

yeah i have mine set for 3hrs with the last 30 mins being after my schedualed departure time.

after riping the front bumbper off last night, i was just about to empty the rad then noticed my zerostart was BUSTED, of course i had to put everything back on, went and changed it for a round 8000 series 1000W.

busted?? explain

the plastic back panel on the right one was cracked in a couple of places, i tried to repaire it with zip ties but it was hopeless.

There is really no difference in performance between the 2. The only thing I don't like about the 8000 series one is the short cord. But since you are putting yours in behind the bumper, you should have no issues with that. But on the flip side, the cord on the 8000 series is removable/replaceable. So if you ever forget to unplug the cord & start to drive away (Yes, I've done it) and break the plug off, its easily replaced. I also like the mounting bracket better on the 8000 series one. I'll be installing 2 or 3 of these things tomorrow, so I will snap some pics & report back.

GuyGuy said:

the plastic back panel on the right one was cracked in a couple of places, i tried to repaire it with zip ties but it was hopeless.

Click to expand...

that plastic black panel only protects the wires, nothing else. u can fix it for dirt really. either apply some hi temp silicone around the cracked cover or get yourself some of this

info below taken from HidPlanet.com

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You need some of this, you can get a polyurethane thermally conducting potting encapsulating compound but I like this one and it’s pricey
NASA uses this stuff all the time....
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/832tc.html
It is Thermally Conductive Epoxy
Encapsulating & Potting Compound
You should get a small bottle..... As it’s expensive


Mgchimicals site providing pic since its there product..
Its specs

100% solids. Formulated with undiluted Bis F resin for superior physical properties, and pigmented with high purity aluminum oxide pigment to provide excellent thermal conductivity at reasonable cost. Pigmented black for excellent thermal absorption and emission.

* Provides superior protection from impact, shock, conductivity, moisture, abuse, chemicals, and analysis
* Two part epoxy, with a 1 to 1 mixing ratio by volume.

Simple mix up and pour into your ballast until it overfills....follow bottle instructions..for mixing..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

many folks use it to weather proof HID ballasts. u can warm it up to help with its flow and pour it over the exposed wiring.

u just need enuff to cover the exposed wires

GuyGuy said:

the plastic back panel on the right one was cracked in a couple of places, i tried to repaire it with zip ties but it was hopeless.

Click to expand...

Guy, the 8000 cannot be used as it has a check valve. The 41 is available in 750W, 1000W and 1500W. Pretty easy to install except on an A3 TDI with A/C.

dieselvet said:

Guy, the 8000 cannot be used as it has a check valve. The 41 is available in 750W, 1000W and 1500W. Pretty easy to install except on an A3 TDI with A/C.

Click to expand...

Sure it can. The check valve is easlily removed with a screwdriver in about 3 seconds. See post #90 above.

for some reason the one i picked up does not even have a check valve?? ,oh well one less thing to do.

I would double check and make sure there is no check valve just to be safe.
It's in the bottom tube.

will do

Well I am using the 8000 series. Check valve comes out in about 2 seconds. Takes longer to find the screwdriver than it does to remove the check valve. One thing I want to mention to those about to do the install. If you need a 5/8" hose coupler, go to the gardening section at CT. They have hose menders for garden hose. 5/8" is available and its brass too.

TIP: If you know where the garden hoses were in the summertime ( Christmas decorations are up now ), there are black drawers under the shelves. That's where the overstock usually is. That is if you can't find anyone willing to help dig in the back to find anything .

I bought one from the tdiheater website, later to figure out i had bought the car with one already!, in selfdefence it had been installed by a pro and hidden well under the battery. Anyway I have one Never used for sale, for a 04 jetta 5speed. Best Offer! message me if interested.

Wingnut said:

Sure it can. The check valve is easlily removed with a screwdriver in about 3 seconds. See post #90 above.

Click to expand...

Sounds good, nice pictures, I always bought the 41's, didn't know the check valves were easily removable on the others. You live and learn. Thanks.

New Install of ZeroStart 8000 model

Hello everyone. New to the board. I am installing a Zerostart 8000 series heater on my 1982 Chevy Truck. I am looking for some kind of documentation on how to do this. It has a 350 V8 engine. I keep reading about taking the check value off. Why? Thanks for any help!

for tdi's, coolant has to be able to flow both ways. A check valve only allows for flow in 1 direction so it must be removed for tdi's. If you do a search, you will find several "how to's" for tdi installations, but not sure about CHevy tuck installs. the general rule of thumb is to install it somewhere low since the hot coolant will rise through convection.

steve

What temp's do you begin plugging in your Zerostart?

i've only really used mine a couple times, and that was mostly just to test it out. So far it really hasnt been cold enough. Once the overnight temps drop below -5C or maybe -10C, then i will start using it.

Steve

kingkos said:

i've only really used mine a couple times, and that was mostly just to test it out. So far it really hasnt been cold enough. Once the overnight temps drop below -5C or maybe -10C, then i will start using it.

Steve

Click to expand...

Thanks, I plugged my 1500w zerostart today to test it out. The snow on the hood/bonnet started to melt and the gp light went out pretty fast!

I have been pluggn mine in for 5 weeks now..anything near 5C, adn i plug it in, why start a cold car

TDI Heater on PD

I just bought the 1000W zerostart heater. It did not come with any hoses. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions/ part # for what I should use.

Thanks

I did an install a couple of weeks ago and only needed a short section of 5/8 inch hose. The upper hose came offf the cooler and went straight onto the top of the heater. Then an 8" or so piece of hose to connect the the bottom of the cooler to the bottom of the heater. Quite simple and only a bit of 5/8 " hose from can tire, no special parts or bends required.

Wingnut said:

I did an install a couple of weeks ago and only needed a short section of 5/8 inch hose. The upper hose came offf the cooler and went straight onto the top of the heater. Then an 8" or so piece of hose to connect the the bottom of the cooler to the bottom of the heater. Quite simple and only a bit of 5/8 " hose from can tire, no special parts or bends required.

Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did just yesterday on mine. I didn't get the part number of the hose from CT, but all I did was go in and ask for a length of 5/8" hose. That's with the 8000 series, I mounted it underneath the battery, but a little farther away from the drivers side so the original hose would reach the top of the heater. Works great, and no extra connectors.

We just won't get into the run to the VW dealer to get more G12 coolant. The instructions I (roughly) followed said to have "a cup" ready to catch the flow. I had a cup. It overflowed fast. sigh.

Brad

Yeah, if you clamp off the hoses befor you pull them off, you loose very little coolant. Basically, just what was in the cooler, so about a cup or so.

Nigel sorry wiuth christmas and all i never made it out to see you. When is a goiod time to install mine. It might be cold enough to use this heater next winter.
Rob

Tell me about it. Have you seen the 14 day trend on TWN? Were supposed to average 7 degrees above normal till mid Jan. ositive temps almost everyday except a couple next week .

Any day next week will be fine Rob.