timing belt instalation

I have a 2002 1.9L Jetta and I want to replace the timing belt (it's 45K miles overdue). I watched some youtube videos that say you have to remove the valve cover (they weren't the exact year and model though). Is this true? If I am careful not to move the camshaft when I take the old belt off, why can't I just slip the new belt on?

Do not take short cuts or you will have engine damage. Get it done by someone who knows what they are doing if you aren't able to do it yourself with the proper parts and tools. Follow the instructions on those pages in the link provided. We have a trusted mechanics list here you can check for someone near you. The job isn't that hard or expensive but it must be done correctly using the right tools and parts and procedures.

Good advice here on getting it done by someone with experience. However, I know how the "TDIY" community goes, so some helpful tips...

You do not need to remove the valve cover if you purchase and use correctly the Metalnerd cam lock tool. MNT98A

You will have to be certain of the TDC position on your ALH based on the flywheel. This varies from manual to auto trans and is sometimes omitted on aftermarket SMF's, so beware.

You will also need to lock the injection pump with the appropriate pin. Metalnerd sells those too. Just make certain everything is locked down before even thinking about wrapping the belt around everything.

There's a bit of fuss and up and down with the engine hanging (or rather, sitting on a jack) for the re-installation of the motor mount and the tensioning and 720º verification of timing, so be patient. It has a certain feel to it that you'll know once you feel it...you'll know what I mean.

Lastly, it is recommended that the injection pump timing be checked at full OT via VCDS. If this is a tool you don't possess, someone here will likely chime in within your area that can perform this check for you. If all is done correctly, there is rarely a need for adjustment after the new belt goes on, but in your case (being so far overdue and being your first stab at it) there might be some slight IP timing tweaks to be made.

Best of luck and keep the forum posted on the results! Nothing is better than knowing that solid advice was not given in vain. Feel free to PM me if you have any further or more detailed questions.

Take your time. Do it right or do it twice! ;-)

Yes you can do an alh without removing the valve cover. If you have the metalnerd tool mentioned. However if removing the valve cover is out side of your wheelhouse you better find someone who knows these engines. That will probably not be someone from Craigslist.

At 49k miles overdue, I'd definitely be getting the TB changed ASAP. I know of one that made to 149k miles without catastrophic failure and one that made to 152k miles with a boom! My guess is that the TB is "just fine" but the Water Pump and/or any of the rollers, including the tensioner, are all but ready to let go. I know of a V-6 KIA that made it to 206k miles when the OE TB broke.

So, with that many miles on the TB and at least that many on the engine, why not go ahead and remove the Valve Cover to inspect the Cam?

It does make changing the Cam seal much easier with the Valve Cover off. And, that seal comes with the kit.

I agree with Tdijarhead, if removing the valve cover is outside your wheelhouse, you better find a guru. At least one of the little bolts holding the valve cover is a witch to access without the proper tool(s) (the one below the EGR assembly).

Thanks for all your help. I was hoping to do and buy the least possible, that's why I don't want to remove the valve cover and buy a gasket. Is it also necessary to remove the engine mount?
I'll inspect the other parts like the tensioner and water pump and replace if necessary. I'm hoping a friend has the locking tools mentioned--are they specific to this car, or do they have adjustments that make them work for multiple cars?

If you do go the valve cover removal route you may wish to reinstall with regular hex head bolts instead of allen heads. I bought some stainless steel replacements and it made all future valve cover removals go smoother. Good luck, John

iuvalclejan said:

Thanks for all your help. I was hoping to do and buy the least possible, that's why I don't want to remove the valve cover and buy a gasket. Is it also necessary to remove the engine mount?
I'll inspect the other parts like the tensioner and water pump and replace if necessary. I'm hoping a friend has the locking tools mentioned--are they specific to this car, or do they have adjustments that make them work for multiple cars?

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There is a tool that you do not need to remove valve cover .
You have to remove Engine mount to do proper job, and do not inspect tensioner, water pump and etc, YOU HAVE to replace all this. There is no short cut at this job otherwise you will be looking $2000-$3000 damage.
You also may look for tdi guru in your area , sometimes is cheaper that guru do the job.By the time you buy tool and vcds it will most likely cost you more.
After you done with timing belt you have to have VCDS to set injection timing. This is not simple job as many think it is,.

iuvalclejan said:

Thanks for all your help. I was hoping to do and buy the least possible, that's why I don't want to remove the valve cover and buy a gasket. Is it also necessary to remove the engine mount?
I'll inspect the other parts like the tensioner and water pump and replace if necessary. I'm hoping a friend has the locking tools mentioned--are they specific to this car, or do they have adjustments that make them work for multiple cars?

Click to expand...

You need to read the how to linked earlier very carefully. From you question about if you need to remove the motor, it appears that you haven't done this yet.

Also, replace every roller that touches the timing belt since a failure in any of them can mean a broken belt and head damage.

I'd also like to avoid buynig the locking tools. If the locking mechanism involves sticking a cylindrical piece of metal (of just the right size) into two holes that line up (one on the chassis and one on the camshaft, and also one on the chassis and one on the fuel-injector pump shaft) then I can find two drill bits to do this. Ideas?

You anywhere near St. Louis? Oilhammer is the expert here.

Unless something has changed that I am not aware of, the ALH valve cover gasket is permanent (no replacement necessary).

First, you need to read the link to MyTurboDiesel as posted previously to familiarize yourself with the procedures involved.

I'd say summary advice is, never go into a job without having knowledge of the minimum basics (located in the link), which would include the proper tools and location to do the work.

From your comments already you are going to be unsuccessful at this. You are already suggesting skimping on replacing required items and tools. If you can't even afford a gasket or two, well I don't know what to tell you. This is the kind of stuff you need:

http://www.dieselgeek.com/collections/vw-tdi-timing-belt-kits/timing-belt-kit_jetta-tdi-1998-2003


There is a member/shop here that rents the tools. The cheapest I see this costing is around $400 with parts/supplies/tool rental.

Yes you can lock the pump with a 6mm rod but the cam requires a tool that reaches inside the bearing cap to engage the slot in the cam. I made one, maybe you can too once you understand its funcfuncfunction. Can be done without removing the valve cover. I suppose you could even remove the bearing cap and use a flat bar as on the AHU.

As has been suggested several times, read the instructions carefully. Then ask questions. From your last question it is clear you haven't done so yet.

From your questions about inspecting and replacing, I’d say that you need to bring your understanding of this job up to speed.

The valve cover gasket is non replaceable so all you will need there is a little RTV.

The tools can be worked around but a novice at this such as yourself will get bit. The alh engine REQUIRES a complete kit, with that many miles everything gets replaced no inspections just replacement.

Metalmanparts rents the tools for a deposit, metalmanparts also sells a complete quality timing belt kit, as does idparts and several other trusted vendors on this site.

If you’re going to skimp on this job put your car up for sale before the engine becomes a paper weight.

iuvalclejan said:

Thanks for all your help. I was hoping to do and buy the least possible, that's why I don't want to remove the valve cover and buy a gasket. Is it also necessary to remove the engine mount?
I'll inspect the other parts like the tensioner and water pump and replace if necessary. I'm hoping a friend has the locking tools mentioned--are they specific to this car, or do they have adjustments that make them work for multiple cars?

Click to expand...

Did you even read the link in post #2? Your subsequent questions in the thread lead me to believe otherwise.

It is the complete how to procedure. It has all of the things you need to know about doing this procedure. Everything is in there and with color pictures. You really don't know enough about this to be an inspector of any of the parts. If you are watching youtube videos that recommend that over replacing parts you should ditch watching them immediately.

Base your future questions in reference to this how-to guide so you will get the most helpful information from the people trying to help you.

OK, thanks for all your patience, guys. I just read the how-to-link. If I understand correctly, the reason to remove the engine mount is that there is a lower TB cover that the mount is in the way of. Given the possible $500 expense for parts and tools and the time it might take, I may decide to hire a mechanic, but now I worry that my local good old boy mechanic may not be up for the job. Is the fine tuning of the injection pump a quick job if you got a VCDS (roughly how many minutes)? I am near Kirksville MO, any TDI mechanics closer than St Louis?

If you look at the picture there, you can see the belt must pass between 2 bolts used to hold the mount on. You would be able to cut the belt to get it off, but without removing the mount you can't get a new belt back on without removing the mount and those bolts. The cover is the least of your issues here.

Your local good ole boy mechanic will screw it up. Please find someone who has done these to get it done correctly. The fine tuning of the pump can be quick or take a little more time depending on where it initially falls and how you move it. A very little movement is all that is required to get big changes in the graph used. From my experience I would allow 30 minutes for that. You may get lucky though and it lands right where you want it.

Lightflyer1 said:

If you look at the picture there, you can see the belt must pass between 2 bolts used to hold the mount on. You would be able to cut the belt to get it off, but without removing the mount you can't get a new belt back on without removing the mount and those bolts. The cover is the least of your issues here.

Your local good ole boy mechanic will screw it up. Please find someone who has done these to get it done correctly. The fine tuning of the pump can be quick or take a little more time depending on where it initially falls and how you move it. A very little movement is all that is required to get big changes in the graph used. From my experience I would allow 30 minutes for that. You may get lucky though and it lands right where you want it.

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^ good advice,,,I would heed it if I were you.

iuvalclejan said:

OK, thanks for all your patience, guys. I just read the how-to-link. If I understand correctly, the reason to remove the engine mount is that there is a lower TB cover that the mount is in the way of. Given the possible $500 expense for parts and tools and the time it might take, I may decide to hire a mechanic, but now I worry that my local good old boy mechanic may not be up for the job. Is the fine tuning of the injection pump a quick job if you got a VCDS (roughly how many minutes)? I am near Kirksville MO, any TDI mechanics closer than St Louis?

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The timing belt covers can come off without removing the mount. As already stated, the reason you have to remove the mount is because one of the legs of the mount is inside the timing belt loop.

The fine tuning does not that take that long. Many times the engine is within spec after the install so it will start up and run fine. You ostensibly could have fine tune done by someone else with a VCDS after the the timing belt has been changed out.

And, removing the motor mount bracket is sort of like working a puzzle. You need the ability to manipulate the engine (up, down, back, forth, etc.) to work the bracket out. Sometimes you can get lucky and it seems like it just falls out... same with going back together. Also, those are Yield To Torque bolts ... thus it is sort of a PITA to access with a torque wrench....

As stated, tweaking the timing with VCDS generally doesn't take long......... the engine must be at or above 85c for the info in the Graph to be correct. Once the Graph is showing the Timing, the mechanic shuts down the engine and loosens the three bolts on the IP sprocket enough to move the pump shaft ever so slightly (Clockwise > advance, counterclockwise > retard). And, an experienced mechanic/guru will be able to hit the sweet spot on the first or second attempt (or it might already be in that sweet spot). (Obviously, the bolts are re-tightened once the adjustment(s) is made.)

As I alluded to in my first post, your TB and all of the components involved, are on borrowed time and miles .......... like almost 50% over! I wouldn't be driving it if it were mine...

This IS serious stuff, stuff that you cannot do haphazardly. Further, and this has been pointed out, not everyone can be trusted; there is a trail of dead engines because someone was said to be good enough because they worked on "diesels." Unless one knows the nuances (which are fully disclosed in that procedure that was linked- I used it when doing my first TB) one WILL screw things up; likely get in real deep and end up with HUGE problems.

One can do this job with the purchase of all necessary tools and parts cheaper than if one were to hire it out. And regarding the tools, you don't even need to buy them, you can RENT them- many supporting vendors offer rental tools. And also as noted, if you do the job well VCDS might not even be needed to check and set timing: my car, my first TB job, has 45k miles on it and I've never touched the timing, it was perfect just following procedures!

I bought my TB tools. I have FIVE ALH TDIs in the family: have done two TBs so far. I got the cam indexing tool (it's NOT a "locking tool") that allows you to leave the valve cover on- I'd recommend going this route unless you have a leaking valve cover (which could use some resealing) or your timing belt has broken and you have no idea what position your cam is in.

Stop driving the car, NOW. If you think that a few TB tools are expensive just wait until you trash an engine.

This thread is funny. I expect that the OP will be living my avatar shortly unless he starts to heed the advice he asked for.

I smell a no start...

Sent from my One using Tapatalk

iuvalclejan said:

...I am near Kirksville MO, any TDI mechanics closer than St Louis?

Click to expand...

From the Trusted TDI Mechanics page...

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...of96k&ll=39.49691251060596,-91.80725857812502

jokila said:

The timing belt covers can come off without removing the mount. As already stated, the reason you have to remove the mount is because one of the legs of the mount is inside the timing belt loop.
The fine tuning does not that take that long. Many times the engine is within spec after the install so it will start up and run fine. You ostensibly could have fine tune done by someone else with a VCDS after the the timing belt has been changed out.

Click to expand...

I assume that doesn't require taking any other parts off or messing with the timing belt. Is it just a bolt on the pump that's easily accessible? Maybe I could do that part myself? Does autozone or O'Reilly's lend a VCDS?

VatoZone or Orielly's do not carry VCDS.

Read through the link above and it will detail the entire Timing belt procedure, including the water pump.

Read through the entire procedure, parts 1 and 2, then come back and ask questions.

Right now it's obvious you didn't read both parts by the questions you are asking.

If you get the timing belt wrong (don't follow the correct procedure in the link provided), you run a very good chance of valves hitting pistons and causing an extra $1000+ worth of damage over and above the timing belt cost.

See my Avatar.

Windex said:

VatoZone or Orielly's do not carry VCDS.

Read through the link above and it will detail the entire Timing belt procedure, including the water pump.

Read through the entire procedure, parts 1 and 2, then come back and ask questions.

Right now it's obvious you didn't read both parts by the questions you are asking.

If you get the timing belt wrong (don't follow the correct procedure in the link provided), you run a very good chance of valves hitting pistons and causing an extra $1000+ worth of damage over and above the timing belt cost.

See my Avatar.

Click to expand...

I read the entire 2 parts, though I might have missed something, as details don't mean much to me unless I have the big picture in mind. It does not say how to adjust the injector pump using VCDS (you might have thought I meant water pump). I could be wrong, sorry if I am. I was just asking if the later tweak of the injector pump requires much removal of parts.

The adjustment on the Injection pump is via three bolts which hold the Inj pump pulley to the hub.

By loosening the bolts, the pulley can rotate independently of the hub, and will affect injection timing. It's part of the belt replacement procedure as detailed in part II where the pump is "pinned" with the holding tool (6mm pin).

If you follow the procedure to the letter, the injection timing often lands right where it needs to be or pretty close. The tensioning of the belt, Which bolts are loose, and the correct order of installing / removing the holding tools is especially critical.

If you skip steps or don't follow the procedure / use the correct tools, all bets are off.