abchilds
Member
Chiton maint books
coolant leak question
- Thread starter cattlerepairman
- Start date
abchilds
Member
fixed leak! Thanks to my pal, Mike!
We got the leak fixed. Purchased the o-ring at the point of occurrence (leak), the O-ring for the coolant flange, and two copper (crush) washers for the oil line terminal end. Just under $10 @ Dick Hannah VW in NE Portland. Make sure you have at least one bottle (1-2 qts) of pink coolant (PentoFrost SF). Timewise, it took ~3 hours for us to make this repair. Lessons learned: 1) Throw some old rags down under the car (or something absorbant). You don't actually drain all of the coolant out initially. I would guess 16-32 oz came out once we finally pulled the coolant pipe out to replace the O-ring. But, it's probably a moot point. When you do this type of repair, you will have some mess to clean up. 2) When refilling the coolant back into the car, top the expansion tank off and make sure you have extra DI water and coolant in your trunk. I got the overheat alarm since I didn't put enough back in initially. 3) Another moot point for most of you pros, but make sure you have a grab tool (magnetic preferred). We dropped tools, bolts, etc. down in the engine.
Now, I have a 'check engine' light and flashing glow plug light on my dash to remedy. I imagine that one of the plugs didn't get completely connected to the manifold/cover. We checked the glow plugs; all have connectivity.
Thanks again to everyone who posted on this thread. It really helped. Thanks especially to CattleRepairMan, ParaMedix, MOGolf, and JETaah for specific instuctions!
-ac
We got the leak fixed. Purchased the o-ring at the point of occurrence (leak), the O-ring for the coolant flange, and two copper (crush) washers for the oil line terminal end. Just under $10 @ Dick Hannah VW in NE Portland. Make sure you have at least one bottle (1-2 qts) of pink coolant (PentoFrost SF). Timewise, it took ~3 hours for us to make this repair. Lessons learned: 1) Throw some old rags down under the car (or something absorbant). You don't actually drain all of the coolant out initially. I would guess 16-32 oz came out once we finally pulled the coolant pipe out to replace the O-ring. But, it's probably a moot point. When you do this type of repair, you will have some mess to clean up. 2) When refilling the coolant back into the car, top the expansion tank off and make sure you have extra DI water and coolant in your trunk. I got the overheat alarm since I didn't put enough back in initially. 3) Another moot point for most of you pros, but make sure you have a grab tool (magnetic preferred). We dropped tools, bolts, etc. down in the engine.
Now, I have a 'check engine' light and flashing glow plug light on my dash to remedy. I imagine that one of the plugs didn't get completely connected to the manifold/cover. We checked the glow plugs; all have connectivity.
Thanks again to everyone who posted on this thread. It really helped. Thanks especially to CattleRepairMan, ParaMedix, MOGolf, and JETaah for specific instuctions!
-ac
HI, I have a vw jetta 2.0 L ..i believe is a gl. I have the same problem. It seems I was able to detach the metal pipe from all the other hoses and things it was connected to.
the only problem is that i cannot get it out of the block. i cannot see any bolts or anything that attaches it to the block..it is tight and i am not sure how to pry it out. how did everyone else do it. can i just pull it off..or is there something to make the orifice bigger.
the only problem is that i cannot get it out of the block. i cannot see any bolts or anything that attaches it to the block..it is tight and i am not sure how to pry it out. how did everyone else do it. can i just pull it off..or is there something to make the orifice bigger.
Biodezl
Veteran Member
Thanks for the post.My coolant flange was damaged during my tranny swap, and so I bought another one for $6.20. Well $41 of G12 coolant later, I found out the new one is defective.
So I am posting these pics so maybe someone else can avoid my this by just looking at the part. I bought the part online, and it looks just like the OEM except for the little circles in the sealing groove. I would not be surprised if some of these also made there way to the dealers.
EDIT: You might notice some glue which is painted filler epoxy which I used to glue the OEM back together and reinforce the new part (before I new about the defect).
FWIW, the defective one leaked on my 1999.5 Auto Trans TDI at 50k miles when the VW dealer in downtown Sacramento "fixed" it with gasket goop under warranty (extended service plan). The goop-repaired flange lasted until ~200k miles when my son had to replace it again while away at University.