mrfeb14
Well-known member
any new updates or pictures on this project?
Push button ignition installed, pictures!
- Thread starter NarfBLAST
- Start date
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Hi mrfeb14, thanks for your interest!
Update:
- LOVING IT! See the thread I started a year ago for more details about the shifter itself: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=3050843#post3050843
- It has been running great for two weeks now
- only accidentally killed the engine once
- took the shifter apart (4 screws) and added more duct tape to the middle and especially the tip of the bare stalk before clamping the shifter back on. Completely solid now.
- Was watching a You Tube video and found a very similar flight stick right down to the colour of the buttons click the "160 Greatest Arnold Quotes" video and scroll to 2 minutes 59 seconds in. You know you are a geek when eh?
NSFW: foul language, violence
9:59+Added to
queue 160 Greatest Arnold Schwarzenegger Quotes
Celebrating the finest actor of our generation with 160 of his greatest movie quotes! First featured on Pajiba.com. Lines taken from 25 of Arnies ...
by hh1edits | 4 months ago | 3,542,257 views
Update:
- LOVING IT! See the thread I started a year ago for more details about the shifter itself: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=3050843#post3050843
- It has been running great for two weeks now
- only accidentally killed the engine once
- took the shifter apart (4 screws) and added more duct tape to the middle and especially the tip of the bare stalk before clamping the shifter back on. Completely solid now.
- Was watching a You Tube video and found a very similar flight stick right down to the colour of the buttons click the "160 Greatest Arnold Quotes" video and scroll to 2 minutes 59 seconds in. You know you are a geek when eh?
NSFW: foul language, violence
9:59+Added to queue 160 Greatest Arnold Schwarzenegger Quotes
Celebrating the finest actor of our generation with 160 of his greatest movie quotes! First featured on Pajiba.com. Lines taken from 25 of Arnies ...
by hh1edits | 4 months ago | 3,542,257 views
Xplorer
Active member
Where is the gun camera display?
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Here is a diagram of where everything plugs in.
Here is a great picture that tdiclub member Volks r us took. Got it from this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=277657
Here is a great picture that tdiclub member Volks r us took. Got it from this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=277657
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Wndsrfr
Member
Here was my fix, with two toggle switches. Thanks for all the inspiration Narfblast!
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69418&title=1&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69417&title=1&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69418&title=1&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69417&title=1&cat=500
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Wndsrfr, great job that has to be the best solution for neatness.
The only nice thing about using the relays in my solution is that I can mount them remotely and I just have a tiny SPST switch and momentary push button to mount.
The only nice thing about using the relays in my solution is that I can mount them remotely and I just have a tiny SPST switch and momentary push button to mount.
BlownBusa
Veteran Member
I wired mine up just like Wndsrfr on Sunday, but with a 40 amp relay... Works great!
Thanks for the help Narf! Back on the road...
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Wndsrfr
Member
Wndsrfr finished
I used the old ignition switch as the connector for the new switch harness if anybody's interested heres a couple of links.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69520&title=connector&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69521&title=assembled-connector&cat=500
Complete harness before installing.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69522&title=ignition-harness&cat=500
Ended up installing into the center console next to the handbrake.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69523&title=two-switches&cat=500
Why cant I seem to post any images all I can post is links? sorry about that.
Anyway thanks again to Narfblast or I never would have figured out this stuff!
I used the old ignition switch as the connector for the new switch harness if anybody's interested heres a couple of links.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69520&title=connector&cat=500
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69521&title=assembled-connector&cat=500
Complete harness before installing.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69522&title=ignition-harness&cat=500
Ended up installing into the center console next to the handbrake.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=69523&title=two-switches&cat=500
Why cant I seem to post any images all I can post is links? sorry about that.
Anyway thanks again to Narfblast or I never would have figured out this stuff!
BlownBusa
Veteran Member
Hey guys, just checking in. All seems to be fine. I split mine into two circuits with two 40amp relays... How 'hot' are your relays getting? Mine get pretty warm and you cant touch the power out connector on the relay very long... It's hot!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
The only thing to warm up on the relay should be the coil, is it rated for 12V? The actual current draw should be minimal as you are just energizing a relay elsewhere in the car. EDIT! There is no relay elsewhere in the car! I was wrong, sorry!
That being said I used little sugar cube relays and they do get warm... takes energy to keep those spring loaded contacts closed.
That being said I used little sugar cube relays and they do get warm... takes energy to keep those spring loaded contacts closed.
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BlownBusa
Veteran Member
Yes, they're 12V same style cubes... That's what I thought, thanks
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
NEARLY ONE YEAR LATER...
It still works! (mostly)
I did have an intermittent problem for a few months now the car would stall in between gears and then start back up again, or sometimes I would have to start it again manually. I thought this had something to do with my clutch that was failing, but after replacing the clutch the problem was still there.
Turns out the CAT5 (Ethernet cable) cable coupler I was using to connect the stick part to the relay part must have come loose, or I have a loose connection somewhere else. I was able to re-create the "shutting off" problem by lifting the shifter boot and tugging on the big black cable loom in this picture:
When I removed the ash tray and reached in to get to pull the wires out I am sure I heard that familiar Ethernet cable "CLICK". Here is a picture of the coupler I used. I thought it would be nice to make it easy to "unplug" the shifter if I needed to remove it from the car for maintenance.
To prevent future "decoupling" I re-routed the wires to make sure there is slack but also so that the coupler is not free to bounce around with the relay block which is tucked away further forward in the space below the climate controls... I don't have a picture of the whole system together, I guess when I finally connected it I was way too excited to stop and take a photo. The wires connected to the LEDs in the photo above got soldered to the block of relays on the left in the photo below:
I should have known it had to do with the ignition switch because the interior "dome lights" would come on every time that the car stalled, and I think that only happens when you pull the key out of the ignition. I don't that that happens when you stall the engine normally. Also, if it self started itself the dome lights would shut off again (that happens when you put the key in and turn it on).
It still works! (mostly)
I did have an intermittent problem for a few months now the car would stall in between gears and then start back up again, or sometimes I would have to start it again manually. I thought this had something to do with my clutch that was failing, but after replacing the clutch the problem was still there.
Turns out the CAT5 (Ethernet cable) cable coupler I was using to connect the stick part to the relay part must have come loose, or I have a loose connection somewhere else. I was able to re-create the "shutting off" problem by lifting the shifter boot and tugging on the big black cable loom in this picture:
When I removed the ash tray and reached in to get to pull the wires out I am sure I heard that familiar Ethernet cable "CLICK". Here is a picture of the coupler I used. I thought it would be nice to make it easy to "unplug" the shifter if I needed to remove it from the car for maintenance.
To prevent future "decoupling" I re-routed the wires to make sure there is slack but also so that the coupler is not free to bounce around with the relay block which is tucked away further forward in the space below the climate controls... I don't have a picture of the whole system together, I guess when I finally connected it I was way too excited to stop and take a photo. The wires connected to the LEDs in the photo above got soldered to the block of relays on the left in the photo below:
I should have known it had to do with the ignition switch because the interior "dome lights" would come on every time that the car stalled, and I think that only happens when you pull the key out of the ignition. I don't that that happens when you stall the engine normally. Also, if it self started itself the dome lights would shut off again (that happens when you put the key in and turn it on).
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
A couple of weeks later... it wasn't the coupler connection, it was still cutting out when shifting gears.
I decided to put the VW shifter knob back on and go back to the original set of switches (version 1.0) for the push button ignition. Instead of taking the steering column apart I made an adapter that allowed me connect ver 1.0 of the push button ignition to the RJ45 connector of version 2.0 under the ash tray.
This worked well, and all I needed to do was take some panels off to run the wires back up form the ash tray up beside the radio so that I could put the little panel back in between the seat warmer and hazard light controls. But I could not stand to drive the car without the thrustmaster shifter. I thought of my co-workers who laugh every time they see the thrustmaster. The car would not be the same without it. I re-soldered two new wires to the "on" switch and crimped on a new RJ45 connector. Went for a test drive with no issues!
edit: fixed some grammar, also P.S. my co-workers laugh with me not at me, I think.
I decided to put the VW shifter knob back on and go back to the original set of switches (version 1.0) for the push button ignition. Instead of taking the steering column apart I made an adapter that allowed me connect ver 1.0 of the push button ignition to the RJ45 connector of version 2.0 under the ash tray.
This worked well, and all I needed to do was take some panels off to run the wires back up form the ash tray up beside the radio so that I could put the little panel back in between the seat warmer and hazard light controls. But I could not stand to drive the car without the thrustmaster shifter. I thought of my co-workers who laugh every time they see the thrustmaster. The car would not be the same without it. I re-soldered two new wires to the "on" switch and crimped on a new RJ45 connector. Went for a test drive with no issues!
edit: fixed some grammar, also P.S. my co-workers laugh with me not at me, I think.
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Shouse
Veteran Member
That joystick is crazy weird. I don't think I could ever see myself using that.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
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Another Thank You
Hello TDI'ers. Sorry to revive an older thread. I don't have a diesel..rather just a VR6, but my particular problem is a generic VW problem, and googling it brought me here. So Kudos to everyone who posted information on their fixes...they were more than helpful. My 99.5 GTI developed the same issue mentioned multiple times here, and I got it fixed this weekend.
I used Narf's schematics with 3 relays (1 is dpdt). I also used the idea posted back a bit about using the old ignition switch as the connector for my system. The relays are hidden under the dash and the switches for ignition are located where the lighter used to be. Here are a couple of pics of my setup as well as a video I posted on youtube (even though you can't hear the engine start-up, you can see it's running on the tac). Once again, thanks so much for the information guys. It was immensely helpful.
http://youtu.be/OBCfeTzitIU
Hello TDI'ers. Sorry to revive an older thread. I don't have a diesel..rather just a VR6, but my particular problem is a generic VW problem, and googling it brought me here. So Kudos to everyone who posted information on their fixes...they were more than helpful. My 99.5 GTI developed the same issue mentioned multiple times here, and I got it fixed this weekend.
I used Narf's schematics with 3 relays (1 is dpdt). I also used the idea posted back a bit about using the old ignition switch as the connector for my system. The relays are hidden under the dash and the switches for ignition are located where the lighter used to be. Here are a couple of pics of my setup as well as a video I posted on youtube (even though you can't hear the engine start-up, you can see it's running on the tac). Once again, thanks so much for the information guys. It was immensely helpful.
http://youtu.be/OBCfeTzitIU
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Hi Squishy,
That is awesome, thanks for posting! Great explanation in your video of how the lock cylinder finger thing broke, the exact same thing happened on my car. I really like where you placed the switches and the big glowing button there. And when you close the slider its all hidden, very slick!
Airstream
Veteran Member
NarfBlast,
First of all this is an awesome fix, I don't know how its escaped me for so long. So are you still using the joystick right now? I could see myself definitely doing this at some point down the road. This is too cool. Two questions:
1. Would there ever be a way to extend the range of the immobilizer. Obviously for theft purposes one needs the deterrent, but I am thinking of a way to simply get in the car, have the key in your pocket and the immobilizer chip be sensed.
2. I may have missed it reading through but is the safety still intact to prevent you from engaging the starter after the engine has started?
So cool...
First of all this is an awesome fix, I don't know how its escaped me for so long. So are you still using the joystick right now? I could see myself definitely doing this at some point down the road. This is too cool. Two questions:
1. Would there ever be a way to extend the range of the immobilizer. Obviously for theft purposes one needs the deterrent, but I am thinking of a way to simply get in the car, have the key in your pocket and the immobilizer chip be sensed.
2. I may have missed it reading through but is the safety still intact to prevent you from engaging the starter after the engine has started?
So cool...
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Hi Airstream,
I am not sure about extending the RFID range to keep the key in your pocket, that is a good idea. Turning the key unlocks the steering wheel, you would have to fix that mechanism or just leave part of a key (without an RFID tag) in there. I don't mind putting the key in, I usually have the key in my hand to unlock the door anyway, so for this to be worth while for me the door would have to unlock with the key in my pocket also.
There is no "safety" to prevent cranking after the engine is running in my circuits. I did not bother. I did use two separate buttons just in case one of the buttons "sticks" the starter will not keep running. This also means that hitting any one of the buttons accidently will not run the starter. Also I can play with the trigger to machine-gun other motorists without running the starter. I have run the starter once while the engine was running (just to see what happens) and it did not seem to do any damage. It just made an awful noise.
edit: the "safety" that prevents restarts is mechanically built into the ignition switch I believe... so yes, it is still intact, the original ignition switch is in my glove box in case my wiring melts down I can plug it back in and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the switch and start the car.
I am not sure about extending the RFID range to keep the key in your pocket, that is a good idea. Turning the key unlocks the steering wheel, you would have to fix that mechanism or just leave part of a key (without an RFID tag) in there. I don't mind putting the key in, I usually have the key in my hand to unlock the door anyway, so for this to be worth while for me the door would have to unlock with the key in my pocket also.
There is no "safety" to prevent cranking after the engine is running in my circuits. I did not bother. I did use two separate buttons just in case one of the buttons "sticks" the starter will not keep running. This also means that hitting any one of the buttons accidently will not run the starter. Also I can play with the trigger to machine-gun other motorists without running the starter. I have run the starter once while the engine was running (just to see what happens) and it did not seem to do any damage. It just made an awful noise.
edit: the "safety" that prevents restarts is mechanically built into the ignition switch I believe... so yes, it is still intact, the original ignition switch is in my glove box in case my wiring melts down I can plug it back in and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the switch and start the car.
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Airstream
Veteran Member
The funny this is that is exactly what I was wondering, whether you could play with the buttons while driving! Fun.
My ideal ignition set-up would be:
1. Unlock doors with wireless FOB
2. Get in and RFID picks up IMMO chip
3. Push Button
4. GO
Now you have a point with the steering wheel lock. But all said and done, its probably not possible to extend the RFID range. Bummer.
You definitely should either make these for resale or make a detailed 'HOW TO' for dummies like me!
My ideal ignition set-up would be:
1. Unlock doors with wireless FOB
2. Get in and RFID picks up IMMO chip
3. Push Button
4. GO
Now you have a point with the steering wheel lock. But all said and done, its probably not possible to extend the RFID range. Bummer.
You definitely should either make these for resale or make a detailed 'HOW TO' for dummies like me!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Update
Wired cruise control into the shifter!
details over in the Thrustmaster Shifter thread titled "Any interesting shifter knobs out there?"
Wired cruise control into the shifter!
details over in the Thrustmaster Shifter thread titled "Any interesting shifter knobs out there?"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1188609
thats the one i used when i installed one. worked perfectly and hides nicely where the 12V is.
thats the one i used when i installed one. worked perfectly and hides nicely where the 12V is.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
That would be the easiest way to wire a push button ignition in a Mk4 for sure but it requires that you start out with your ignition switch and key lock barrel in working condition.
firehawk618
Veteran Member
Forgive me I didn't read every single post.
Is the reason for doing this because it's not just the electrical ignition switch that fails? Because if that was all the problem was I can't see the logic in doing all this extra work instead of just buying the cheap part that failed.
Is the reason for doing this because it's not just the electrical ignition switch that fails? Because if that was all the problem was I can't see the logic in doing all this extra work instead of just buying the cheap part that failed.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Exactly, this fix is for when the expensive and hard to replace mechanical part fails.
edit: I actually still have the ignition switch stowed in the door pocket in case I need it, it still works, but you have to stick a screw driver in it and turn
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Update: haven't driven the car on the road since I took the insurance off in May 2013...
I thought about this thread while shopping for our next car. I was trying to decide which of the seven trim levels we really need and had it narrowed down to SE or EX when I noticed the EX includes Push Button Start:
The vehicle we are planning to purchase is a 2014 Honda Odyssey.
I thought about this thread while shopping for our next car. I was trying to decide which of the seven trim levels we really need and had it narrowed down to SE or EX when I noticed the EX includes Push Button Start:
The vehicle we are planning to purchase is a 2014 Honda Odyssey.
BlankThis
Veteran Member
She's waiting in the yard for the little ones to get old enough to drive the minivan/her.
Nice choice Narf!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks BT, in discussions with the boss looks like we don't need the power sliding doors, proximity unlock, colour matched door handles, blind sport warning, and three zone automatic climate control that come with the EX trim level on the Odyssey. I hate automatic climate control anyway. So the basic eight passenger SE with power windows and door locks will do fine. So we can save $3000 but this means no push button start... that money can go towards the towing package, roof racks, roof box, and floor liners, and maybe the hatch tent (yes, Pontiac Aztek style )
)