Hard Start / No Start - Is your intercooler frozen? Check Here!

Elfnmagik

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Oct 1, 2008
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Sherman's Ashtray
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Currently De-Dub'd
Sidebar.
New iPad user here. I've taken an image of the valve I'm talking about from my cam on the iPad. Can someone help me with how I pull the image from the pad to a host or straight to the forum? Thanks.
 

El Dobro

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Feb 21, 2006
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NJ
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2017 Bolt EV Premier, 2023 Bolt EUV Premier
Are we talking about the valve that is visible at the front on the intake manifold? Looks like a throttle body?
Yep, IIRC it makes the noise after you shut the engine down.
 

MonsterTDI09

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2010 Jetta DSG/ up keep on 2009 Jetta DSG 2006 Jetta Pag 2 in North SEA Green
And now back to my original question. Has anyone ever removed the pipes and looked at the valve to see if all that crap in there has affected the valve?


You can't see the valve from the bottom.
 

Elfnmagik

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Thanks. Here's the image I wanted to post earlier about the valve in question. It's the throttle body at the manifold form the inter cooler. The entering air hose was disconnected on mine and I was able to catch a look see. It was normal with just a slight residue.
 

CedarPark68

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Nov 14, 2010
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Texas
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2011 Jetta TDI Wagen
So have had the issue -- wife brought the car to Fathers And Sons in West Springfield, Ma -- they said yup its the freezing issue -- they drained it and then said the kit and install is $1695! REALLY with 36,185 miles on it-- so I wrote VW and here is the reply

[FONT=&quot]Reference # yyyyyyyyyy [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]


Dear Mr. XXXXX:

Thank you for your e-mail sharing your concerns with the need for replacement of the air cooler in your Jetta TDI. I am sorry to hear of the disappointment this has caused. I understand you feel you should have been notified sooner of a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the concerns you’ve experienced, and you’re seeking to have your repairs addressed under warranty. I appreciate the opportunity to provide you with more information.

Please understand TSBs are issued by Volkswagen to assist our dealer technicians in understanding how to perform specific repairs. Unlike repairs related to recall campaigns and service actions, repairs related to TSBs are only performed for free when a vehicle is experiencing specific symptoms while within warranty coverage.

Once the vehicle’s warranty has expired, any needed repair becomes the responsibility of the vehicle owner, even if a TSB has been issued with instructions for how to perform the repair. From the in-service date of September 1, 2008, everything for your car except tires was covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for manufacturing shortcomings for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever came first. Because this coverage has been exceeded by over 3 months, I regret this work is not covered at this time.

I’m sorry, as I know this is not the response you were hoping to receive. Should you have any additional questions, please know our Customer CARE Center is at your disposal Monday through Friday 8 AM to 6 PM, local time, at (800) 822-8987. You are also always welcome to e-mail us again from the “Contact Us” page on www.vw.com.

In addition, you will soon be receiving a Volkswagen Customer Care satisfaction survey. Please take a few moments to complete this. Your feedback is important for it will allow us to serve you more effectively in the future.

[FONT=&quot]Sincerely,[/FONT]


Daniel R.
Customer CARE Advocate

So where do I go from here? My first thought is to sell the POS and never buy VW again and tell everyone about my experience on every forum and place I can. My second thought is try the blocking of the grill.

VW basically does not care about customer service as far as I can tell.
I've posted before that I feel based on how VW has responded to the various TDI issues at hand and based upon the complexity of the CR TDI, it is very risky to own this model outside of the 3 year / 36k warranty.

A JSW w/pano is an expensive little car, I'm still paying for mine, a thought that is too active in my mind .... to pay out quickly, to trade at loss ...?????

.... a lock can ruin the engine, with no warranty and no extended warranty one would be doomed.
 

VolksDudeTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
TDI
VW Golf 2010 TDI
I was always told that a warmer engine pollutes less.....but a colder engine mixture provides more power (more condensed air). I'm still trying to understand why bypassing the Intercooler would cause more emissions...a small intercooler that gets heat soaked in the summer is the same as having no intercooler at all...

I understand a loss of horsepower without an intercooler....but it's something I could live with if it prevents icing during the cold winter months...
 

bhtooefr

TDIClub Enthusiast, ToofTek Inventor
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Newark, OH
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None
However, they put a huge intercooler on specifically to avoid heat soak.

Higher intake air temperatures result in higher NOx formation.
 

pinghg

New member
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Mar 8, 2007
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
TDI
2000 & 2006 Beetles
My 09 Jetta with 97K the last two winters and have had at least one issue of not starting in garage in morning. One time would not crank the other time it cranked but would not start and it was much like no fuel.

Then the last two days it has been difficult to start again like again a lack of fuel. Cranks and then it fires up and runs like crap for maybe 5 seconds or more then evens out. After that I drive it 55 miles and no problems.

Got vehicle to Vdub (last year) and never got an explanation that made any sense.
One time I got the fueling gelling BS the other time was some other BS equally lame.


So is the garage starting problem is from condensation (water) being sucked in and outside the condensation is frozen solid so do not seem the problem?

What was frustrating has been I have never had any issues starting after vehicle sat out all day single digits or sub zero.
 

PlaneCrazy

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Joined
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Province of Quebec, Canada
TDI
Gone...
If you read up, you'll find the issue comes from driving in cold temps then when the car is parked and it warms up to above freezing, the ice melts and forms a slug of water which gets sucked into the engine. I think depending on how much water determines if it's a hard start or a no-start.

That said there was some talk about what the icing might do to performance. I suspect that the icing is restricting air flow. It's about -18C here this morning and my car seems distinctly sluggish; not sure how much of that is due simply to cold and things being tighter or due to air flow. But I noticed it on Christmas night as well in similar conditions.

I think the Passat solution is the only reliable way to go. Use liquid cooling to keep the intercooler at optimum temperature summer or winter. It doesn't have to keep it super warm, just above freezing. I wonder if it would be possible to retrofit this on the A-chassis cars? Somehow I think the cost of the plumbing would be prohibitive...
 

VeeDubTDI

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If it's parked in the garage, the frozen condensation will melt, cause a puddle in the intake system and hydrolock the engine when you try to start it.

Parked outside in freezing temps, the frozen condensation will remain frozen and continue to build, thus restricting airflow through the intercooler and reducing engine performance. The next time it all thaws, it will hydrolock your engine.

Either way, you lose.
 

jackbombay

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Joined
Mar 12, 2002
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Diesel knows best
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A4 Jetta
If it's parked in the garage, the frozen condensation will melt, cause a puddle in the intake system and hydrolock the engine when you try to start it.

Parked outside in freezing temps, the frozen condensation will remain frozen and continue to build, thus restricting airflow through the intercooler and reducing engine performance. The next time it all thaws, it will hydrolock your engine.

Either way, you lose.
If you park in a heated garage every night you will never build up enough frost for it to melt into a large enough puddle to hydro lock the engine. Win.



Or you could just drill a 2mm hole like gofaster suggested, but that would entail doing something not in front of a computer :p
 

VeeDubTDI

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Nope... that's not true. If you take a long enough drive, it will build enough frost/condensation to hydrolock your engine the next time you park in your garage or it gets above freezing.
 

PlaneCrazy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 3, 2000
Location
Province of Quebec, Canada
TDI
Gone...
Nope... that's not true. If you take a long enough drive, it will build enough frost/condensation to hydrolock your engine the next time you park in your garage or it gets above freezing.
Indeed it's while driving. Any airflow through a restriction will cause a pressure drop and a cooling of the air, with potential condensation of any moisture in the air. Theoretically, it is possible to have condensation and icing at temperatures above freezing. Far more likely in fact in the range just below to just above freezing. In really cold weather the absolute moisture content of the air is probably too little for any serious buildup.

Anyone that flies piston-engined aircraft with a carburetor knows this. I have a carb temp gauge in my Beech, and the icing range goes up to nearly 20C if I recall. In aircraft, in potential icing conditions we run the carburetor on heated (but unfiltered) air periodically to clear ice build-up. There is a slight power loss due to the loss in air density. Look at this chart, you can see that carb icing can happen well above freezing:

Carb icing chart

I've had intercooler icing on three occasions. The first one was after driving about 30 km, and the second one, after about 85 km; the third one was just a few km after the second one. The first two resulted in severe power loss and death-rattle vibration while trying to accelerate (passing maneuver and lane-change), the third was a very hard start. In all cases temperature close to the freezing point. In the parked scenario it got warmer during the day.
 

Rauss

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Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Location
Montreal, QC
TDI
Golf TDI MKVI
I'm all with you on this,

Losing power : I got a replacement vehicule same year and spec of my car and wow it was really more powerfull.

Vibrations : When starting the car dead cold, the engine shake and do a weird sound, when regen it shakes too.

Passing cars on highway when you need it : Well big hesitation and a big white puff after that.

Placed an order on tsb for iced up intercooler and I'll see if this help.

Indeed it's while driving. Any airflow through a restriction will cause a pressure drop and a cooling of the air, with potential condensation of any moisture in the air. Theoretically, it is possible to have condensation and icing at temperatures above freezing. Far more likely in fact in the range just below to just above freezing. In really cold weather the absolute moisture content of the air is probably too little for any serious buildup.

Anyone that flies piston-engined aircraft with a carburetor knows this. I have a carb temp gauge in my Beech, and the icing range goes up to nearly 20C if I recall. In aircraft, in potential icing conditions we run the carburetor on heated (but unfiltered) air periodically to clear ice build-up. There is a slight power loss due to the loss in air density. Look at this chart, you can see that carb icing can happen well above freezing:

Carb icing chart

I've had intercooler icing on three occasions. The first one was after driving about 30 km, and the second one, after about 85 km; the third one was just a few km after the second one. The first two resulted in severe power loss and death-rattle vibration while trying to accelerate (passing maneuver and lane-change), the third was a very hard start. In all cases temperature close to the freezing point. In the parked scenario it got warmer during the day.
 

eddif

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Location
MS
TDI
2004 Jetta PD Automatic
There are several examples of what can happen being presented. If we just go ahead and know there can be many ways the frost, water, freeze, thaw, hydrolock, hammer without lock, wet combustion causing miss, almost totally frozen hoses, totally frosted intercooler, parts failure electronic glitches etc; then add a few more situations we did not think of. There are going to be differences in what happens to individual cars. Some theories may be wrong, but the fact is still going to be that there are more than just a few ways a failure can happen.

This is all an interesting read lately. One solution is still to force a thaw and drain, before start; or drain after thaw but before freeze (perhaps automatic). And.... Even the solutions do not have to be limited to just one or two solutions

The kit will help some, and additional steps will help even more. Since the cars are so complicated the solutions are just going to be complicated themselves. Due to the desire of owners to not be involved in the solution, a lot of work has to be directed to automated solutions.

eddif
 

bdisco

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Mar 18, 2010
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Flashing my lights behind you, CT
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'10 4dr Golf & '12 T-Reg.
Went to dealer yesterday for the fuel line dampers(not sure that little rubber blocks are going to stop an explosion), informed them about my hard start and the inter-cooler TSB. Service guy said he had three other cars waiting on the back ordered inter-cooler kit. They inspected my lower hoses and found nothing. I asked if the moisture could have been sucked into the engine and cause a hydro-lock situation. He said no it was just starved for air (yeah like it was drowning under water:rolleyes:). So was the water/sludge thats no longer in my pipes somehow vacuumed up and harmlessly expelled out through the exhaust system? :confused: Thoughts?
 
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VeeDubTDI

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Did you get a chance to look inside the pipes for yourself? While some of the water could have been injested, some should have remained, including the oily slime that so many other members have been reporting.

Maybe pop it open at home later and have a look to see what's up.
 

pknopp

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Location
WV
TDI
2012 Jetta Sportwagen
It can't be that hard for someone to create a tube with a spring flip cap or something similiar.

No, this is hardly a solution for a car company as part of the sales speech could never be a step where you have to do this but for those who will drive these cars for miles and miles doing all the maintenence it would be nothing.

Pop the hood, pull the spring loaded cap down and stuff either runs out or it doesn't.
 

bdisco

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Flashing my lights behind you, CT
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Did you get a chance to look inside the pipes for yourself? While some of the water could have been injested, some should have remained, including the oily slime that so many other members have been reporting.

Maybe pop it open at home later and have a look to see what's up.
No and outside temp was 20F last night and 5F this morning supposed to get up to 45F this weekend so maybe.
 

VeeDubTDI

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It's definitely not good weather for climbing around under the car. Let us know what you find.
 

740GLE

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NH
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2015 Passat SEL, 2017 Alltrack SE; BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat,
Frost is present inside the IC when your driving the car in sub zero temps, repeated operation in sub zero temps the frost will just build slowly choking off the IC and you'll probably never noticed it until a warm day start up.

It's only when this frost melts on a warm day and the car restarts does this water get sucked up into the intake.
 

tschatzinger

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2011 Golf TDI, 4 door, cold weather package, manual :)
Drove my car for about 20 minutes this morning (it started fine, no issues). About two hours later I start it up again, it idles rough and then dies. Same thing second time around. Third time it starts up fine. It's right at 32 degrees outside. Does this sound like an intercooler ice up problem? If so, can someone please enlighten me on where I find the intercooler lines for build-up? 102 pages is a lot to look through, and a quick search didn't turn up anything specific.
 
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