Very weird outcome

Hello everyone... I replaced a front wheel bearing ,right side and was wondering if some members could shed some light with the problem I created.

I pulled the bearing out of the hub with a puller and pulled the new one back in put on a new wheel hub and tightened the nut to proper spec. NO suspension bits were removed with the bearing replacement except for the sway bar link bolt that screws into the control arm.

Now when my left wheel is straight the right wheel is about 2'' out of line to the right, the spokes in the steering wheel are seriously out of wack and the tires howl when going around corners... Can anyone guess what I mucked up please.
Thanks Lez

Make sure the bearing isn't coming apart again. Did you loosen/remove the ball joint? How did you get the drive shaft out?

Did you remember to put the retaining C clip back on when you replaced the bearing?
How about the tie rod ends? Did one get bent or come loose from the rack?
How much slop is in your ball joints?
As mentioned above, did you verify that you didn't damage by pressing on the wrong race of the bearing?

Hey I got the driveshaft out by turning the knuckle hard left with the sway bar link to lower control arm undone........ Remembered to put the clip back on.

HOW DOES THE TIE ROD COME LOOSE FROM THE RACK??? This sounds interesting

Lez

There should be a jam nut. Losen it, the the tie rod will unscrew from rack. Make sure to mark it, then you can get to close to the same spot when reassembling. You will still need to have toe set at alignment shop

lez said:

Hey I got the driveshaft out by turning the knuckle hard left with the sway bar link to lower control arm undone........ Remembered to put the clip back on.

HOW DOES THE TIE ROD COME LOOSE FROM THE RACK??? This sounds interesting

Lez

Click to expand...

They just use a jam nut on the threaded arm. If one came loose and spun (tie rod) it would have the symptoms you described. It would take a few turns though

Yes but I never undid none of this stuff when replacing bearing... It would be VERY mysterious that all the stuff came undone and mal adjusted and worn and out of alignment after replacing wheel bearing??
Lez

lez said:

Yes but I never undid none of this stuff when replacing bearing... It would be VERY mysterious that all the stuff came undone and mal adjusted and worn and out of alignment after replacing wheel bearing??
Lez

Click to expand...

Yes but I'm throwing out ideas that would cause the symptoms you are explaining. I'm not saying they are the solutions by any means, just things to check

I was not aware one could remove the driveshaft on a MK4 without separating the control arm...

Anyhoo, something moved. If you didn't undo anything other than the swaybar link, then something broke or has a lot of play.

Did you do anything on the strut top? if that did not reseat properly, your alignment would be off.

Other than that, look at the control arm bushings? they are a wear point on these cars, and perhaps yours shifted when you cranked the wheel?

If the above don't pan out, jack up the car on the side you repaired, and have an assistant turn the wheel from one full lock to the other and observe the suspension bits for any excessive movement at one extreme or the other.

+Just want to let you folks know that I discovered what I mucked up that caused my alignment to go out.
To the best of my deductions I managed to cock the end of the cv joint where it rests in the back of the knuckle and because the splines still would center in the bearing and wheel hub because of the cv, I had no clue as to what I had done./ Working on the ground does;nt always give one great viewing perspective.
And oh yes I did have to remove the ball joint to get the shaft out of the way
Thanks to all Lez

lez said:

...
And oh yes I did have to remove the ball joint to get the shaft out of the way...

Click to expand...

AHAA!!
Seriously, so glad you got it all sorted, Lez. Good for you!
Cheers,
PH

lez said:

. NO suspension bits were removed with the bearing replacement except for the sway bar link bolt that screws into the control arm.

Click to expand...

Originally Posted by lez
...
And oh yes I did have to remove the ball joint to get the shaft out of the way...

Click to expand...

I feel bamboozled.

Windex said:

I was not aware one could remove the driveshaft on a MK4 without separating the control arm....

Click to expand...

yep, do it all the time... swaybar links need to be disconnected and swaybar rotated up out of the way, if you're removing the left CV shaft then turn the wheel full left and full right for the right side shaft.... car needs to be on jack stands so the control arms are in full droop... this type of removal can only be done on manual trans, and 01M automatic cars