N108 code plus other issues need help

Mk4 golf alh racer,,, giving me these codes and headaches, NO EGR so this code is not a factor, a good N75 swapped from my jetta and still does not work with my golf,,,erase all codes and they come back.






Fault Codes have been Erased
3 Faults Found:
01269 - Commencement of Injection Valve (N108)
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01265 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (N18)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
Readiness: N/A


No boost on turbo, actuator not moving, timing with vag.com stuck at 255, sent IP to DFIS Portland and they shipped it back to me saying solenoid was good,,, golf fires whenever she wants in the morning any help would be appreciated

go TDI

Is this for a tune that was working before or a new tune.
If a new tune and using generic writing tool could be a problem of checksum corrections in data area if there is problem the way tune was created.
If it is a new tune try previous tune.
If it is from tune that was working then I am stuck other than excercise connections check wires and fuses.

old RC7, this tune has always worked with golf, it actually worked great for like 2 months then golf died

check your fuses...all of those components share the same fuse. I'll double check but I think it is 32.

edit....was wrong. it is fuse 34.

Ecu is shot. Cold solder joint on the board. But double check the fuse first.

great advice will check fuse 34 first then if needed I will swap ecu to see if that does the trick I have been all over this issue and checked everything but I get to a dead end, I will report, problem is Jeff RC has my back up ECU and still has not shipped it back

all the trouble I went to pull IP and ship it DFIS, wiring and all,,, it turned out to be fuse 34, I feel a total idiot LOL,,, I did not have my lap top with me so I was not able to go diagnose it better,,, but fuse was blown,,, but now my N75 still not working, its not opening actuator on turbo,,, txs to greengeeker and Buzzken,, any hint what it may be,,, map sensor??

Why dd fuse blow in the first place? Id still be checking wires to n75.

MAXRPM said:

all the trouble I went to pull IP and ship it DFIS, wiring and all,,, it turned out to be fuse 34, I feel a total idiot LOL,,, I did not have my lap top with me so I was not able to go diagnose it better,,, but fuse was blown,,, but now my N75 still not working, its not opening actuator on turbo,,, txs to greengeeker and Buzzken,, any hint what it may be,,, map sensor??

Click to expand...

I'd check for voltage at your n75 first. If you don't have 12v on the yellow black wire then you have a break in the wiring. Then do as oldpoopie suggests and start chasing down your wiring issue. Shouldn't be that difficult as the wires are fairly accessible.

If your voltage checks out then I would try an output test in vcds. If this isn't good then you either have a break in your ground [signal] wire from ecu OR your n75 is bad. You can always throw in your n18 to determine if your n75 is bad.

hth

Txs Justin and greengeeker,,, I was able today to jump start N75,,, yesterday I did not have my lop top,,, today I brought it and cleared the 3 codes then immediately the N75 started to work,, first time I know that by clearing the codes I made the N75 to work,,, that's the update now I can go and play txs guys for your advice it helped me tremendously

N75 works sometimes and other times it quit completely timing chart at vag.com works sometimes as well, I swapped it out with my jetta and in my jetta works like a charm, so I believe its the ecu acting up,, spoke to jeff at RC and he is sending me my back up ECU so I really going to test it. hopefully it would solve the issue,

Sounds like a short (like Justin said). Turn ignition on, hook up a test light to the connector and do a harness wiggle test.