Finally got it done, 7 hours (plus more to clean up). I would like to say how easy it is... in a way it is, but there were challenges. About an hour to set up and remove the cover, airbox, inner front forward wheel wheel and belly pan. About the same to button up. So that is two hours. The core of the work took 3 hours, but I had some struggles getting the hose onto the oil cooler and locating the heater unit. Then another 2 hours with head scratching and the usual looking for dropped fasteners...
(EDIT looks like I might have a thermostat in the system which some DSG cars have, and I have to disable it. I forgot to set the timer last night. So I plugged it before work, when I got up. I only got an hour of run time of heater on a cold engine. The top hose from the Frostheater was hot. It did seem to warm up faster, but it indicated dead cold when I started. I either have that thermostat or it was not on long enough. We'll see tomorrow. PROBLEM SOLVED, I screwed up the bottom hose; it was kinked. The instructions are clear how to route it. Fixed it last night and this morning... ahhhh full temp and heater at start. NICE. Now all I have to do is figure out how to plug it in at work... the boss might be suspicious if I run a 1000' extension chord out to my car... Ha ha.)
I did not use any of the special tools I bought, except the hose clamps. I followed the instructions except a few deviations mentioned below.
The Skunks Work. I just moved so I did not have all my tools, but made do with what I had.
These are the hose clamp-off tools I bought to reduce fluid loss, but frankly I would just skip them and get a pan to catch the gallon of 50/50 that will drain. If you are careful, use a clean catch pan you can reuse it. You can run it through a coffee filter if you like, but it was not worth it to me. I just brought it to a local repair shop to disgard (DON'T THROW IT DOWN THE DRAIN PLEASE, AND DOGS LOVE THE STUFF. IT WILL KILL THEM DEAD.) Remember DON'T USE 100% glycol, use 50/50 with distilled water. Make sure you buy some distilled water and the proper VW coolant stuff. It tops off very nicely. I drained almost exactly a gallon and was able to put that back in through the reservoir, almost in one shot. The resrvoir is the high point and the fluid was able to fill the system. After I started up, shut down, ran the frost heater for a few minutes. I was able to put the last cup in. After test drive the level is perfect. The special tools I bought above, remote hose clamp tool and special long reach pliers with funny ends were not needed. I did use my longer reach needle nose pliers but not the ones with funny ends. The only thing that came in handy were the ramps and the hose clamps, but again the clamps in the way, I took them off and let it drain.
This is the three new hose clamps for the kit where you spice in the heater in series before the oil cooler. There is a lower hose and upper hose from the heater. I deviated from the instructions. It says DO NOT remove the hoses from the frost heater, they are clocked and so on. They come preinstalled and clamped down That is fine, but it forces you to route hoses from bottom up to attach to oil cooler nipple. The bottom hose has a 180 turn to get the oil cooler. I could not get it on the oil cooler nipple. I removed the bottom hose from heater and attached it to oil cooler from top, then routed the hose from top down. You have to be careful not to twist, kink or pinch it. Then tightening the lower hose clamp on the oil cooler is a pain... Get a 1/4" socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, universal flex couple and extensions of different lengths. I got my metric stuff out of storage but not my US sockets. The hose clamps can be turned by screw driver but it is a PIA and you can't get them tight. I borrowed a 1/4" socket from a new neighbor and was able to finish the job. (THIS PICTURE BELOW SHOWS A MISTAKE, THE BOTTOM HOSE COMES FORWARD AND AROUND THE WIRE HARNESS, FAIRLY CLOSE TO THE RADIATOR FAN AND THEN DOWN. THE WAY I HAD IT KINKED THE HOSE AND KEPT IT FROM WORKING INITIALLY. FIXED NOW, LOOKS JUST LIKE THE PICTURE IN INSTALLATION MANUAL. WORKS GREAT!)
Besides the lower hose attach to oil cooler, a PIA, the mounting of the heater is unit above inter-cooler hose is PIA. It takes a lot of fiddling to get it to fit. I made an optional trim of off one of the corner mount lugs, on heater housing, to make a little more room. It is not necessary, but what the heck, I have a little dremel cutoff wheel tool. I should have done it on the bench with a hacksaw; it would be easier and could take off more than just the corner.
Another deviation was how I mounted the power chord. This is only temporary but for now the chord is under the hood on the driver side between the air box and battery. The eventual plan is get a nice custom connector to mount somewhere external, grill may be. The connector will not be a standard three prong 120V but a flat MOLEX type that chassis mounts. I will make a short adaptor pig tail to plug into the small Molex type socket and the other end a standard 120V AC extension cord female plug. I will cut the excess wire from the Frost Heater. For now having it under the hood works great, might just leave it. Having a AC cord jammed into the lower grill just looks bad to me, and it is subject to getting dirty and corroded.