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Fuels & Lubricants Discussion all about Fuels & Lubricants. synthetic oil, conventional oil, brands, change intervals, diesel grades, gelling and such debated items like that. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. This forum is NOT for the discussion of biodiesel and other alternative fuels.

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Old August 12th, 2007, 08:30   #61
theFATman
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as far as the fuel in the oil goes.. is that just from blow-by or what do you think? Maybe i could lower my IQ a tiny bit as long as there was no shuddering and see what happens next time?
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Old August 13th, 2007, 07:42   #62
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could be worn or dirty nozzles. you could try a couple doses of the Motul Diesel System Clean - LINK

and/or a LM Diesel Purge. i recommend doing this just after you pull your next oil sample (assuming your using an oil sampling pump) and just before your change the oil.

if that doesn't clear it up there are other potential causes - but IMHO that's the "low hanging fruit".

cheers!
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Old August 20th, 2007, 08:04   #63
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Here's my latest UOA for AFL. Fuel was 95% B20 use. I expected iron to be lower but maybe residual. Silicon was no surprise as I had the valve cover off. Probably got some dirt in there at that time.

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Old August 20th, 2007, 14:29   #64
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IMHO - you've been returning significantly higher than average Fe wear since you started UOA tracking at 14k. if it were my TDI - i'd drain and refill with a VW approved 50700 or 50501 oil, do one short cleansing OCI of 2-3k as a rinse (IMHO no UOA necessary), then on to 10k+ OCIs using UOAs to confirm oil performance and engine health. Cheers!
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Old August 20th, 2007, 14:41   #65
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Yeah, 82 iron over 10K would prompt me to go with an approved oil. I've always used 505.01 or better in my PD and have shown no higher than 41 ppm for Iron, 6 ppm Aluminum, and 4 ppm Copper over 10K OCI. You're roughly double on those.
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Old August 20th, 2007, 14:56   #66
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I tend to agree. At my current rate of Fe, I would be at almost 89. At this point I feel like my Fe should be dropping significantly.
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Old August 20th, 2007, 18:10   #67
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BTW, should I use an engine flush such as Motul before switching oils? Or should I run the short 3K interval, then do a flush?
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Old August 21st, 2007, 23:38   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdenney
BTW, should I use an engine flush such as Motul before switching oils? Or should I run the short 3K interval, then do a flush?
There's no need to flush, as your engine is clean. If you plan to change oil brands, and the new oil company has a flush, and it would make you feel better, flush to 'neutralize' the last of the oil oil that will remain in the engine.
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Old August 21st, 2007, 23:42   #69
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A comment on comparing UOA reports...

UOA is a trending tool and is only valid for that specific engine. No two engines are identical, no two cars are identical, and no two drivers are identical.

UOA is a great diagnostic tool, but it is not a valid oil comparison tool. If it were, there'd be no need for ASTM tests or engine test stands.
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Old August 21st, 2007, 23:55   #70
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dhdenny;
Do you run this car a bit hard? Usually that's the case with high soot. I make 1% per 10K miles myself.
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Old August 21st, 2007, 23:57   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TornadoRed
I have read somewhere that if oxidation plus sulfation equals 50 or greater, it's time for an oil change.

Okay, it was here: http://www.oaitesting.com/g2047.pdf

Given that you didn't get a TBN value, OXID + SULF may give you an approximate idea of the acidity of the oil. Yours is considered "excessive".
I think you mean that if either oxidation or nitration is over 50 it's time for a change?
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 00:36   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyH
I think you mean that if either oxidation or nitration is over 50 it's time for a change?
It does say that, doesn't it?

Oxidation, nitration, and sulfation are too often ignored. The lab results I get never include them.
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 05:37   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyH
A comment on comparing UOA reports...

UOA is a trending tool and is only valid for that specific engine. No two engines are identical, no two cars are identical, and no two drivers are identical.

UOA is a great diagnostic tool, but it is not a valid oil comparison tool. If it were, there'd be no need for ASTM tests or engine test stands.
Point taken. I still think 80+ppm Fe for recommended OCI is a tad high (certainly not terrible), regardless of conditions.
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 07:27   #74
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Right I am aware of variables between cars/engines and UOA in itself is not perfect. I just want to see if lower wear numbers are attainable for me.
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 07:28   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long_Range
dhdenny;
Do you run this car a bit hard? Usually that's the case with high soot. I make 1% per 10K miles myself.
IMHO, I don't run it hard. But that's a subjective term. Perhaps I do run it hard. So ideally soot should be down around .5 after 10K? Maybe it's in my oil instead of my EGR.
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