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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old July 3rd, 2017, 18:25   #61
nitec
 
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pulled the slave cylinder and it basically disintegrated in my hands....it looks like it wasn't compressed in the transmission so when I pressed the pedal it just blew out so it seems its too short? Is the W8 clutch setup thicker possibly requiring a shorter slave cylinder? any help?
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Old July 3rd, 2017, 19:25   #62
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So you used the 01e gearbox right? DMF clutch? If so, did you use a spacer plate between gear box and engine?
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Old July 4th, 2017, 04:35   #63
nitec
 
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01E, SMF no spacer - pretty much the exact same setup I used in the B7...I was looking around for the slave cylinders and it looks like they're all pretty much the same length unfortunately that means the fork inside is not lined up or something else...

B7:


Allroad:


then again the B8 cylinder seems a lot longer?

B8:


this is not giving me happy thoughts
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Old July 4th, 2017, 05:01   #64
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or could the fork potentially be different? it looks like it came with two different variations?


Last edited by nitec; July 4th, 2017 at 05:08.
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Old July 4th, 2017, 10:22   #65
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One of those is the 01A and the other is the 01E. They both use the same clutch cylinder. The B8 has a completely different gearbox.

Could it simply be the pushrod wasn't lined up with the fork when it was assembled?

I have an engine and gearbox still attached together in the workshop. I can measure the depth of the clutch fork relative to the slave cylinder housing so you can compare to yours
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Old July 4th, 2017, 11:03   #66
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43mm from the mounting surface to the indent in the clutch fork. The metal and plastic slaves per your B7 and Allroad pics are interchangeable and also the same between 01A and 01E.

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Old July 4th, 2017, 11:52   #67
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Thanks MJ - great info...I`ll measure mine up again...after I took it out the first look suggested that with the slave cylinder in, the piston is not compressed so when I hit the pedal it just blows out...

so I have the 01E transmission but the clutch is typically used with O1A...so could the clutch kit just be narrower therefore I have to use the O1A lever? It worked on the B7 which uses an 01E type setup so I`m not sure...I do have a spare 01A lever if I need to use that?
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Old July 5th, 2017, 05:35   #68
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I dont think the 01a lever works. I think you use the lever that matches the trans. Pretty sure the levers are not interchangeable.
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Old July 5th, 2017, 07:20   #69
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Correct ^ You have to use the fork which fits the transmission as they are a different design. 012/ 01A / 01E all have the same release bearing to bellhousing dimension and the clutch stack height is the same, except for those versions which use a spacer.
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Old July 5th, 2017, 10:41   #70
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k great...this means that either something shifted around during installation or I simply didn't have the slave cylinder installed correctly...I used the correct fork and the clutch dimension is standard so there should be no reason for the dimensions to be off...

hopefully I don't have to pull the engine as this is the last item on the to-do list before I go for a drive...
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Old July 9th, 2017, 08:08   #71
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well I think I resolved the clutch issue but I don't yet know the reason for it...

picked up a metal slave cylinder to replace the busted plastic W8 one and extended the rod by 35mm



tested the clutch - it engages properly so it looks like it worked...we'll see if we can track the difference that caused this but my bets are on a thicker W8 clutch resulting in a different clutch fork which doesn't work with the Valeo SMFW

assuming nothing crazy comes up the car will be finished next week...got a few little things to button up including a broken vacuum reservoir, getting a new tensioner and getting a relay in for the AC compressor...
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Old July 17th, 2017, 09:53   #72
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Done and done...

https://youtu.be/01mNo7dfzT8

I'm tracking down an engine shut off right that could be a potential bad crank sensor...also for some reason I've got a cam sensor code but neither of those two were bad before the engine was pulled so who knows...I thought it could be a fueling problem but I've got plenty of fuel up front...I do see bubbles in the return line so I may have to do injector seals down the road but not opening it up right now...also - not sure why but I get an oil pressure warning on the dash...the first time it happened I obviously freaked out and thought it's BSM delete related but I also get the warning with the pressure switch unplugged so I`ll have to figure out where that's coming from...

https://youtu.be/4VyH1fANtOU

the clutch works well and I'm not really detecting any crazy vibrations at this point...the transmission received a complete oil change and seems to work well...I may change it again at some point if I see any weird behaviour from it...

had to switch the BHW throttle pedal out but that was expected...so far I haven't modified any wires between the engine and car harnesses...

Left to do:

- AC relay and charge
- brakes
- new cam/crank/oil pressure sensors
- tune (Demon Diesel)
- exhaust (single line to W8 dual mufflers)

Last edited by nitec; July 17th, 2017 at 09:58.
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Old July 19th, 2017, 05:20   #73
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looks like the new crank sensor solved the intermittent shut off at idle, but the cam sensor is nowhere to be found...replaced the sensor and still have no signal so either my timing is way off which is unlikely or I've got some strange wiring issue - will check the pins later this week...

replaced the oil pressure switch and still getting the light on the dash so before I go drive it around I'll verify with a gauge what my oil pressure is...I suppose it's possible that the oil pump I used is faulty but I just don't want to believe it because that means taking the pan off....again
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Old July 19th, 2017, 05:56   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitec View Post
replaced the oil pressure switch and still getting the light on the dash so before I go drive it around I'll verify with a gauge what my oil pressure is...I suppose it's possible that the oil pump I used is faulty but I just don't want to believe it because that means taking the pan off....again
You did plug the balance module feed hole when you did the delete, right?
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Old July 19th, 2017, 06:53   #75
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Just manually check the pressure at the sensor hole - get the engine nice and hot and check the actual pressure at idle - then you will know for sure.
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