Ahu build strategy

So I have a 97 AHU that I'm planning on swapping into a CJ jeep this next year, and while I'm doing the swap, I want to do the performance upgrades at the same time..

My goal is around 170-180whp, which from my post searching is about the threshold of stock rods, I'm wanting to go with R520's, bv43 turbo on an AFN manifold, PD intake (have one now, but its facing the wrong way lol) good sized fmic, etc...

My question is, when swapping to an 11mm pump, I know you have to machine your bracket to make it fit the 11mm pump, but why cant you just use an ALH bracket? Something I'm missing here?

There are many flavours of the BV43. Some won't be much of any "upgrade" at all as they came from engines with basically the same power rating as what you've got. The best to get is a BV43D but IMO there are better options that retain excellent low-end response and boost generation and supports your targeted 170-180 whp. If you're set on the BV43, again, look for the "D" suffixed ones instead of the more common "A" or "B" (I don't think there is a "C" variant at least for VAG models).

Considering the magnitude and complexity of the swap, an intake manifold pointed the other way is among the least of your problem as they can be easily addressed with custom piping (which you'll need anyway).

The ALH pumps, doesn't matter 10mm or 11mm, mount/align/lock differently and at a different angle than the AHU. Your existing bracket can be modified by drilling and tapping holes to suit.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152265
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/alh-injection-pump-swap-conversion-mk3-tdi-engine/

The reason why you cannot directly bolt on a mk4 IP into an mk3 is because the bracket is slightly different and the electrical plug is a different shape.

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Why not just use the alh pump and bracket instead of going threw the trouble of machining the old ahu bracket not sure if there the same or not but if someone knows it be great because I can get a 11mm alh pump off an automatic and the bracket if it bolts right up that would be great

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It's not possible to use the ALH one it's completely different!

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Thank you for your response.. I'm not dead set on the bv43, just heard it's a decent turbo is all.. what would you recommend for a turbo, in my goal for power? I'd rather have more turbo capability than be under..

And I know it's a good swap, but I'm not overly worried about the swap itself, the motor mounts and such are the easy bits.. it's the details that are the harder bits... I mentioned the manifold because I want it to look cleanly done, and not having it pointing straight to the firewall..

I've also been debating between an air to air intercooler vs an air to water... I've studied the coty built jeeps and that's what they use, and it's a nice compact package, hence why I am considering it.. or so it seems that way

Anyone else have opinions?

You do not need to change pump for 200hp or below. ALH bracket will not fit, it´s completely different block. BV43 would be easy to install. There is hundreds of turbos you could fit into it with that goal.

You can modify the AHU pump bracket to accommodate an ALH pump. I'd suggest an 11mm pump, PP520s or similar (Firad has a similar nozzle), and a VNT-17. That will give you an easy 150+ HP and 280+ torque, and great FE.

Ok thanks for your input

Not quite Plug 'n play, but a GTD1752VRK from a BMW application is the bee's knees at the moment at your targeted power level.

While I agree that an ALH 11mm pump is not necessary for your power objectives per se, it might still be advisable if there is quite a lot of miles on the pump. The newer pump quantity adjuster together with proper ECU tuning also fixes a "judder" at a certain highway cruising speed that occurs with the older 1Z/AHU-equipped in the A3 Jetta and B4 Passat.

I'm a big-pump, big-injector, mild-tune kinda guy, like VW's on Motorsport division did on their 24h endurance racer. So since you'll be changing the pump, injectors and turbo anyway, do the hardware swap just once, I say. That means 11mm pump and Bosio Race520 (or equivalent), turbo as indicated above, and tune to suit (and 3 bar MAP sensor).

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/VW-TDI-R.pdf

Some guys are used to mention that a gtc1549vz can do the trick.
I've never tried but from what I've read the size is perfect for a no-lag setup, up to 210hp
Moreover it's already vacuum driven, no need to convert it.
Exhaust inlet is a 3 bolt pattern, an adapter plate is needed.
Best part now, you often see this turbo on eBay for 200$ in Europe
Just saying

That said, the gtd1752vrk is a nice unit. I'm currently fitting this turbo to my 4motion ARL pd tdi. I can't wait seeing result !

GTC1549VZ is certainly an excellent option as well. Much cheaper, easier to adapt, but more restrictive in the turbine side and IMO a stretch to support 210 HP (PD perhaps, but not for an AHU).

IndigoBlueWagon said:

I'd suggest an 11mm pump, PP520s or similar (Firad has a similar nozzle), and a VNT-17. That will give you an easy 150+ HP and 280+ torque, and great FE.

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There will not be any benefits from 11mm pump, down sides only. I´d go with GTB, C or D turbo too, GT(A)´s has lived their life. 1549VZ is good choise for light 150-200hp/400Nm+ tune with better spool than original, i´ve done one VE (AGR) with it and know another PD on neighbour with it. VE was dynoed something like 180-190hp and PD 200hp/400Nm+. VE had changed nozzles only and PD was stock ASZ. VE had limiting factor on turbo, not fueling. Boost and EMP was rising too much on both engines when added more fueling and with vanes fully open, but its good for that goal.

Always weld new flange to manifold if you like it reliable, it´s MUCH easier too. Adapter plate will usually leak more or less at some point.

What are the downsides of an 11mm pump?
Also, on the turbo, I was wanting more of a pnp option..


I was kinda going for the same thing, pay for the hardware once, the first time... I dont think I'll want more than that, but ya never know... if I have to tear into the bottom end, I'll do better rods and pistons lol

i have to do some investigating as far as a compression test, etc, because I have quite a bit of blow by, or so it seems... air filter will was black the last time I changed it from oil, it blows out about a quart in 300 miles at highway speeds, I have replaced the ccv puck, i still have to check the vacuum lines... because something is not right... I shouldnt have oil dripping out of the air filter box..

How much blow by is normal? Should the cap dance at idle?

Skenzi said:

So I have a 97 AHU that I'm planning on swapping into a CJ jeep this next year, and while I'm doing the swap, I want to do the performance upgrades at the same time..
My goal is around 170-180whp, which from my post searching is about the threshold of stock rods, I'm wanting to go with R520's, bv43 turbo on an AFN manifold, PD intake (have one now, but its facing the wrong way lol) good sized fmic, etc...
My question is, when swapping to an 11mm pump, I know you have to machine your bracket to make it fit the 11mm pump, but why cant you just use an ALH bracket? Something I'm missing here?

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HAHA, no the stock block can take like 220 to 250, its not going to last another 200K miles, I had head issues well before any rod issues at 230HP in my AHU.
Im not suggesting you do so.
the #1 things you need is a high performance clutch, nice injectors, a tune and bump up the PSI on a nice Turbo to 20PSI, 190 Hp right there with a cam and some head work.

Skenzi said:

What are the downsides of an 11mm pump?

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Costs, machining, work and time without more power and half shorter belt lifetime.

Slightly modified AHU stock pistons and stock rods are good even over 400hp/600Nm. I'd say stock blocks can handle more than 600hp without issues. Head work would be profitable after 250hp.

TDIMeister said:

While I agree that an ALH 11mm pump is not necessary for your power objectives per se, it might still be advisable if there is quite a lot of miles on the pump. The newer pump quantity adjuster together with proper ECU tuning also fixes a "judder" at a certain highway cruising speed that occurs with the older 1Z/AHU-equipped in the A3 Jetta and B4 Passat.

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Usually it's vice versa, judder comes more easily with 11mm adjuster and pump. Only if old quantity adjuster is bad, judder could disappear on change. There isn't any other difference on adjusters than very slightly longer movement on it. Only difference is on axle which has tap for sleeve. Tap is slightly more further from center point of axle.

Thanks for all the responses, I appreciate the insight.. I have to get the CJ ready before I swap the motor, but I'm gonna start stockpiling parts, so I can keep driving the Jetta as long as I can, before I take it off the road, and hopefully it wont be long between when I pull the motor from the Jetta and I'm driving with the CJ

Just PM me if you want me to ship you an AFN exhaust manifold

I've been eyeing up this turbo, any opinions?

https://www.darkmattertuning.co.uk/...ll-bearing-turbo-on-cast-manifold-1-9-2-0-tdi

I mean I know it would work and everything lol, other than being a little spendy, I've read really good things about the GTB2060VKLR... plus I really like the idea of being dual cooled, in my mind helps with longevity, but also the extra heat would be a good thing in the winter time... I'm going to see how the radiator in the cj will work with the tdi (as in too big), but in the car right now, when it's pretty cold out, it has a hard time keeping temp..

Decisions decisions

Thumbs up from here when compared to BV43 and other older ones. Next important issue is to find an good tuner for the whole setup to have all benefits from your engine. With nozzles and cam with this turbo you can see 230hp or over from it and more to come with easy updates. If you´re heading to 180hp only, you can find cheaper options for sure. Water circulation though is good for engine heating as you said, and maybe you could insulate engine better too.

Well, 180hp was my goal, if it makes more with a better turbo, I'm not gonna get mad lol... but for now I'm drawing the line at having to port the head, cam and such, because as of right now I'm not really tearing into the motor when I swap it over and do the performance mods, just gonna do new gaskets and such

I also dont mind spending some coin on a great turbo thatll last a long time, as well as give me room to grow later on

Tuning recommendations?

If your goal is 250+ then you need ported head and ARP´s. I´d use ARP´s or at least ARL´s every time after 200hp. I know plenty of tuners from here, including myself. But I assume you will not drive your car here for tuning

Just a little jaunt to you lol for now I'm gonna draw the line there, but I did plan on head studs any which way i go.. idk what the german fascination with torque to yield bolts is.. my thinking is i want to get the swap done and get it on the road, then worry if i have enough power with the turbo and injectors as is, because after all, this is gonna be a long distance daily driver type, and I plan on keeping it many years, so rebuilding it in the future is on the long term road..

Did this project get finished? Update?