ChippedNotBroken
Veteran Member
Most of my brakes get replaced because of rust damage. I've seen stainless rotors around and wondered if anyone had ever used them.
Cost, heat distribution properties, ease of production. Everything has a purpose. Stainless takes 2-3 more time then steel to machine.Most of my brakes get replaced because of rust damage. I've seen stainless rotors around and wondered if anyone had ever used them.
Not just this car, just about any car I ever owned. The car is garaged. I drive this car about 200 miles a week. Usually replace the front and back brake pads on my cars around 100K.Are you saying the brake pads are damaged due to rust or are you saying the rotors are rusting?
Is this a daily driver or is it a car that is not driven for periods of time?
brakes are designed to be used. Maybe if you start using your brakes, they would be in much better condition.Not just this car, just about any car I ever owned. The car is garaged. I drive this car about 200 miles a week. Usually replace the front and back brake pads on my cars around 100K.
The rotors rust to the point of needing replacement.
I don't tailgate, downshift to slow down, drive about 75% highway and almost never use my brakes. Still it is nice to know they are there if I ever need them.
And yes, when the rust gets bad enough it damages the pads.
Use the brakes more. Problem solved!I don't tailgate, downshift to slow down, drive about 75% highway and almost never use my brakes. Still it is nice to know they are there if I ever need them.
And yes, when the rust gets bad enough it damages the pads.
I can't figure out why drivers ahead of me hit their brakes most of the time. I suppose they are just performing "maintenance braking" ?brakes are designed to be used. Maybe if you start using your brakes, they would be in much better condition.
Helpful, at last ... Thank you.I was kind of looking at these recently.
Did you forget about heat dissipation? Paint will prevent proper cooling of the rotor, risking warping the rotors. Slotted/drilled rotors can release heat much more efficiently.I'm not a fan of slotted/drilled, etc. but a solid rotor w/the same surface treatment... I'd be all over them. What I've done before is pull the rotors and ceramic/engine paint them. It takes some time but really improves the look and maintenance when done.
I drive 130 km every day, and of course, I don't worry about my rotors rusting. However, if I wash my car, I make a point of taking it around the block and using the brakes "needlessly" just to wipe the water off the rotors and warm them up to dry them off. When I don't do that, they rust quite a bit overnight.I can't figure out why drivers ahead of me hit their brakes most of the time. I suppose they are just performing "maintenance braking" ?
The idea of maintenance braking just seems silly to me. Better to get rotors that perform under my driving conditions.
At the very least it would protect the surfaces that were not subjected to the friction of the brake pads. In theory one would think the friction of the pads would keep the rest of the rotor relatively rust free.Pat, how does the coating work if as soon as you use the brakes, the coating has been worn off? Not being facetious, I'm really wondering.
You should be replacing the rotors anytime you replace the pads.… The car is garaged. I drive this car about 200 miles a week. Usually replace the front and back brake pads on my cars around 100K.
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You should be replacing the rotors anytime you replace the pads.
http://www.google.com/products?q=stainless+roters&hl=en&aq=fWho offers stainless rotors for a VW?
No way. Unless you are using high mileage pads (crap IMHO), you should get at least 2 sets of pads per rotor change, 3 if you use higher performance pads, this rule has proved consistent for my Mercedes, BMW, Mazda, and VW's. There is no guessing to this, measuring with calipers will tell you when to change your rotors, aside from normal erosion of rotor material, the only thing that might cause replacement sooner is the occasional warping or scoring of a rotor.You should be replacing the rotors anytime you replace the pads.
Well I understand the need for the rest of the rotor, but the pad area is what I thought we were talking about here.I'm presuming the coating wears off in the pad area without pad damage. Cooking paint off, on the other hand, will definitely gum your pads up. As every brake application wipes those areas clean, a little temporary surface rust is self maintaining. All the other areas, however, should remain rust free and easy to clean.
My rotors look pretty bad right now, rusted everywhere they can. Not serious, deep rust but unsightly for sure. I'm debating replace them with something coated (I liked the black ones) or paint mine up. If I paint, it goes without saying, I am not talking about the pad area but everything else.
I would stay away, like far away from cross drilled or even slotted rotors for daily drivers. If you wan't to upgrade I would go with TT rotors and ECS Porsche calipers.
I find going much more exciting that stoppingI would stay away, like far away from cross drilled or even slotted rotors for daily drivers. If you wan't to upgrade I would go with TT rotors and ECS Porsche calipers.
Still doesn't solve the rust issue but it will yield more exciting results thus you using the brakes more.
No way. Unless you are using high mileage pads (crap IMHO), you should get at least 2 sets of pads per rotor change, … .