What did you do to your MKIV today?

hey_allen said:

Who sells a lifetime alignment?
I've spent enough on them over the years, would love to have paid it once.

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Firestone does. Sometimes they'll run a promo and its $170, normal. Price is #220 if I remember right.

Well, it's totaled. It was over $3500 damage. Waiting to hear back on valuation, hopefully tomorrow. I figure if they can give me almost $2800 for my '97 B4 w/ 419k 4 yrs ago, I should be close to that with A4 hopefully in similar condition... I already have front end and hood off, luckily no leaks from radiator or a/c condensor. I went to pick-n-pulls yesterday, the one that has a few MK4's (including blue ones) was closed, and the other one didnt have squat. I'll be going to one that was closed tomorrow, then I'll probably order some parts online that I can't find...

Built a cluster. Going to source the correct wiper stalk and other bits soon. Has some screen fade, but it's something until they do colorMFA orders.

PakProtector said:

Toad in...

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Isn't that where a road kill goes for a ride in or on the front of the car???

Cheers,

PH

Powder Hound said:

Isn't that where a road kill goes for a ride in or on the front of the car???
Cheers,
PH

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I think that winds hung up in the splits of the fender liners. Moral of the story: replace them when a crack appears.
cheers,
Douglas

or we could play, 'use it in a sentence'...LOL

Finally getting my 04 back on the road!!! 2.5 years ago the trans went - still drove fine, but dumped all it's fluid out.
Pulled it this weekend to find a nice window in the case. As suspected, a diff rivet let go and ran through the output and ring gears taking a tooth off the ring gear and splitting the case. I picked up another "broken" trans from an 05 Golf (also EUH code, but with the newer differential) that had a stripped output gear when it lost 5th gear. I'm going to make 1 from 2 and replace the rivets with ARP bolts (if I can find a LSD quick and cheap I'll do that too!)

Has anyone replaced the FRONT crank shaft seal? Should be in this area. What will it entail if so? I need to do my TB and I need to plan accordingly. I’m thinking I can combine this work along with the TB work.


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BakoTDI said:

Has anyone replaced the FRONT crank shaft seal? Should be in this area. What will it entail if so? I need to do my TB and I need to plan accordingly. I’m thinking I can combine this work along with the TB work.

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I haven't on the tdi yet, but have on several other engines including my MKIV 2.0 8v gasser (AEG). You'll need some means to remove the old seal, I've successfully used a pair of paint can keys, working end wrapped in scotch tape to avoid scratches on the crankshaft snout. If you have access to the proper tool for the task, that's preferable. For installation I've used an appropriate diameter socket and washers with a longer bolt into the crank snout to pull the new seal into place. Use the plastic guide the seal ships on, unless the directions say otherwise, and be prepared to leave it alone for 24 hours or the specified time period before moving the crankshaft.

The seal change didn't add too much complexity to the timing belt change in the instances I've performed it.

BakoTDI said:

Has anyone replaced the FRONT crank shaft seal? Should be in this area. What will it entail if so? I need to do my TB and I need to plan accordingly. I’m thinking I can combine this work along with the TB work.

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I have. Need to replace the big bolt, and seal. The bottom part is actually the seal carrier, it comes off the engine. I'd suggest cleaning and re-siliconing it. Behind it is the chain for the oil pump. If you're feeling adventurous you could upgrade the pump for better cold start oil pressures. Requires taking off the oil pan.

kidflyr said:

You'll need some means to remove the old seal, I've successfully used a pair of paint can keys, working end wrapped in scotch tape to avoid scratches on the crankshaft snout. If you have access to the proper tool for the task, that's preferable. For installation I've used an appropriate diameter socket and washers with a longer bolt into the crank snout to pull the new seal into place. Use the plastic guide the seal ships on, unless the directions say otherwise, and be prepared to leave it alone for 24 hours or the specified time period before moving the crankshaft.
The seal change didn't add too much complexity to the timing belt change in the instances I've performed it.

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What is the proper tool for this? I’ve seen a tool from metalnerd I think that counter holds the crank pulley but not one for the actual seal.

Lisle 58430 is an example of one type of seal puller that works similarly to the paint can key method, slipping a curved finger between the seal and crankshaft. The Lisle tool and others in that general type incorporate a movable pivot pin which is nice when you can't easily pull straight outward in line with the crank, or have difficulty getting the seal to begin moving.

Some have used a pair of wood screws driven into the seal material, but I have not been willing to try that method, it feels too risky that something might get scratched and fail to seal as intended.

BakoTDI said:

What is the proper tool for this? I’ve seen a tool from metalnerd I think that counter holds the crank pulley but not one for the actual seal.

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If you pull the seal carrier off, just press in a new seal until it's flush.

Well today I replaced my pd150 intake 57mm racepipe o-ring . I suspect a small boost leak as the car struggle to make the required 28psi . Also change the oil, and fuel filters. While underneath the car I checked the turbo actuator for proper travel and ease of movement, all checks out . Hopefully tomorrow I have time to inspect the n75 valve .


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kidflyr said:

Lisle 58430 is an example of one type of seal puller that works similarly to the paint can key method, slipping a curved finger between the seal and crankshaft.

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Wow! This is the one to go with!! Check this out
https://youtu.be/YrVwf6BHLTw
What have you used to lube the new seal?



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=BakoTDI;5545806]Wow! This is the one to go with!! Check this out
https://youtu.be/YrVwf6BHLTw
What have you used to lube the new seal?

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The guy in that video! "I don't know if I'm using it correctly, but I already love it" LOL - that's me and every tool I've bought
Anyway today I finished swapping a liter out and into my PS pump.

BakoTDI said:

What have you used to lube the new seal?

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Dry in many cases. All of PTFE/Teflon lined cam/crank shaft gaskets I have encountered have come with instructions to be installed without any lube. New seal should come with some brief instruction from the manufacturer what to do.

Coolant Leak, Timing Belt, Alternator, Cntrl Arms

Our "new" (newest) car. Golf, bought new in May 01, 258,000 miles. After sitting a month this year, coolant leaked out (had been topping coolant for a few months). Leak in vicinity of water pump or dreaded pipe o-ring. Timing belt past due, so hoping it is the water pump. This was the 3rd timing belt replacement. The first, I was 49, now 64. Not getting easier. Also, third short cut to procedure. No removal of sprockets, etc. Just mark belt tooth and sprocket with paint on cam, pump, and crank sprockets and mark new belt at the same spots by counting teeth. Assemble new belt on sprockets, at marks, with loose tensioner and small idlers not installed, then rotate tensioner with screwdriver or something suitable until tab slips into slot then install small idlers and properly tension belt. Replaced original alternator with new Remy. It would not come out the top and almost dropped it. Removing out the bottom was the right solution after AC compressor removal and right fan. Alternator is big and heavy for such a small engine but I've never had an alternator last as long as the original. Replaced lower control arms with Moog because of shot rear bushing. Lucked out with nuts inside sub-frame. They stayed attached. Still checking to see if o-ring needs to be replaced, too. Maniacal German design for maintenance.

You might find it easier to do the recommended way, but you would need those pesky tools. The only hard part is the motor mount. It's easy to miss tension with the count and mark method, but hey, you've done it twice. It does want to be fine timed with a suitable OBDII device. Verify coolant leak location as you go, lots of possibles for that.

In my neverending quest for maximizing my fuel economy, I used this guide here to adjust my injection timing... again...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=240450


Started off with my timing registering as "too advanced" with the timing at 66, adjusted it to "within spec, slightly retarded" at 47. My cold start injector duty cycle actually does something now, and my start of injection specified/actual are darned near the same now.



I also finally reinstalled the air duct that goes behind the left headlight for the ram air. had to trim it a pinch for my ballast wiring.

That's the best guide, at least for the VE motor. I've even read in that old stuff folks liked to put it right in the middle then tweak with adaptation.

After experiencing electrical issues, I finally replaced my alternator. 13 hours over two days later... its done. And it fixed the problem too phew.

While technically I did it a week ago, I finally got to drive my car after returning from working out of town.
The turbo in my car gave up, with 341,000 miles on what appears to have been the original turbo.

I replaced it with a rebuilt one from a car that I parted out, and after tightening up the nuts that hold the EGR pipe onto the manifold, it's not giving me any trouble.

The power is so much smoother coming on, now that the VNT vanes aren't sticking, and MUCH better than the old turbo was doing after it snapped the shaft...

Daaaaamn. Glad you're back on the road!

Purchased an oil service kit from IDPARTS, where I buy all my service kits. I also purchased an oil extractor from West Marine.

Thanks!

Drove IBW from NC to MA. 955 miles, 15 hours. Pretty easy ride except for some traffic in NYC and Westchester. And I got 50 MPG for the trip, despite spending a lot of today running at 80 MPH.

Technically, I ordered the oil kit last week.

added helper bags to my 2011 jsw to eliminate saggy rear. car is level now and wont be blinding oncoming traffic anymore.

Installed a thing, and associated stuff. No idea if the screen fades or not. Problem for future me if it arises.

sriracha said:

Purchased an oil service kit from IDPARTS, where I buy all my service kits. I also purchased an oil extractor from West Marine.

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I have had the west marine oil extractor for several years now. I even use it on my old Atomic 4 engine in my sailboat. Works great. Even with no maintenance of it and just chucking into the back of the shed every time I am done with it.

Had the '01 Golf T-Boned. The Mrs. was driving and someone ran a stop sign, plowed into the driver's side door, it spun her around and the right front wheel hit the curb popping the tire. Janet is fine thanks to good ol' German engineering and we were able to drive it home. The door still works and locks and the window still rolls up and down, so we'll have time to look for a replacement. Over 18 years with the car without a scratch...