Start to Finish B5.5 conversion/project thread, a newb's journey

Sweet!! A2VR6 is in Boise, only a couple hours away, and we are connecting to support each other (well, he has more skill than I so, maybe just moral support back from me, or offering to share a fine malty beverage). In addition, he has a known working TCU that he has UPS'd overnight to me and my mechanic Ray so my he can swap it in and check out the auto tranny to verify its condition prior to dropping it out! (after testing, we are going to move forward, but this will hopefully confirm whether the tranny is any good or not). Ray working on interior stuff right now, and was planning to drop the tranny tomorrow, so it won't slow him down too much. Awesome! Thanks so much A2VR6!

As I said the other day Ray and Matt (the local TDI expert who is acting as back up to Ray), verified the codes, did some diagnostic via Matt's materials and resources, and found you could pull the TCU altogether and run it to see how the tranny would run. They said it ran fine in all forward gears, and reverse, though not very sophisticated without the TCU. Ray thought it felt like a 70's Ford auto tranny. Hopefully hooking up the good TCU will enlighten us further.

Meanwhile, my frost heater kit came in as well. So I will see if Ray wants to throw that on while he is in there or if I will do that myself.

I have never tried pulling the TCU and running the car. If that is the case then why the need for a TCU? Typically when a TCU dies (usually water logged) it goes into safe mode and you have 3rd gear and reverse and it hits hard when going into either. If what you are saying is accurate I learned something new today. Bonus!

sunvalleylaw said:

Sweet!! A2VR6 is in Boise, only a couple hours away, and we are connecting to support each other (well, he has more skill than I so, maybe just moral support back from me, or offering to share a fine malty beverage). In addition, he has a known working TCU that he has UPS'd overnight to me and my mechanic Ray so my he can swap it in and check out the auto tranny to verify its condition prior to dropping it out! (after testing, we are going to move forward, but this will hopefully confirm whether the tranny is any good or not). Ray working on interior stuff right now, and was planning to drop the tranny tomorrow, so it won't slow him down too much. Awesome! Thanks so much A2VR6!

As I said the other day Ray and Matt (the local TDI expert who is acting as back up to Ray), verified the codes, did some diagnostic via Matt's materials and resources, and found you could pull the TCU altogether and run it to see how the tranny would run. They said it ran fine in all forward gears, and reverse, though not very sophisticated without the TCU. Ray thought it felt like a 70's Ford auto tranny. Hopefully hooking up the good TCU will enlighten us further.

Meanwhile, my frost heater kit came in as well. So I will see if Ray wants to throw that on while he is in there or if I will do that myself.

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Nice! I'm glad you found a TCU! He can get it to you much faster than I could have. Keep us posted!

vwztips said:

I have never tried pulling the TCU and running the car. If that is the case then why the need for a TCU? Typically when a TCU dies (usually water logged) it goes into safe mode and you have 3rd gear and reverse and it hits hard when going into either. If what you are saying is accurate I learned something new today. Bonus!

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Matt the TDI guy has some sort of info source for interpreting codes that suggested it. I will find out what the info source is. It is what suggested trying that. Ray says the TCU makes it run way better, and more sophisticated (as I asked the same question as you, why need the TCU at all?).

My car was acting very much as you describe with the TCU installed, with it seeming to be confused particularly when it was trying to shift back down. So, after we plug a good TCU in, we can see what happens.

So where Matt and Ray got the idea for running the car without the TCU to test the tranny was from this resource that matt pays for: https://www.identifix.com/ Not sure if that will help anyone, but putting it out there just in case.

Still sussing the tranny. Will report more after the weekend.

Nash_TDI said:

I imported my o1e myself. I like Fran's one stop shop though. Bought a number of o2j kits from him.

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What clutch are you using?

Windex said:

What clutch are you using?

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Whitbread/clutch master unit.

Sorry if I missed this somewhere, but I'm curious... why is half the dash out and the steering column dropped?

Cheers.

sunvalleylaw said:

Still sussing the tranny. Will report more after the weekend.

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db123 said:

Sorry if I missed this somewhere, but I'm curious... why is half the dash out and the steering column dropped?

Cheers.

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Well, my mechanic felt that was the easiest way to get the new pedal cluster in there. he admits there may have been a different way, but he felt that way was easier for him to deal with. I do know that one can use the existing brake pedal also, but we got the whole cluster, so opted to just bolt that in.

It was a real PITA to get the clutch pedal in when I left the steering wheel in place.

imo000 said:

It was a real PITA to get the clutch pedal in when I left the steering wheel in place.

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That makes sense. Especially when you consider you need to take the whole front bumper cover off, along withe the hood release and other trim, to replace the head light assemblies on these cars.

I didn't really have too much of an issue installing the clutch pedal - just needed to replace the pivot rod with the longer version that holds both pedals.

I cut down the existing brake pedal but used a new cover so you can't tell.

I would have transferred over the pedals instead of transferring the whole cluster - too much work.

That makes total sense now... this is good to know as one day I hope to do the manual swap on my Passat. We all can learn from this so I appreciate you taking the time to post that picture and to respond to our questions.

Thanks sunvalleylaw.

sunvalleylaw said:

Well, my mechanic felt that was the easiest way to get the new pedal cluster in there. he admits there may have been a different way, but he felt that way was easier for him to deal with. I do know that one can use the existing brake pedal also, but we got the whole cluster, so opted to just bolt that in.

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When I took out my pedal cluster I just removed the bolt from the steering column where it attaches to the steering rack. Slid the column yoke u-joint off the rack and the whole thing up into itself, completely out of the way.

KCTDI said:

When I took out my pedal cluster I just removed the bolt from the steering column where it attaches to the steering rack. Slid the column yoke u-joint off the rack and the whole thing up into itself, completely out of the way.

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Sounds like that way would work too. My guy was trying to be really careful with any plastic parts and trim, and was erring on the side of caution. He said he could have wrestled a couple things around differently, but that he was not sure it would be any easier, for him anyway. He may take a little extra time with this, but I know he will be fair with me. And he is normally used to Alfas and Ferraris and British, and works Audis a fair amount. But this project is a new one for him so he is being careful. I am sure there are other ways to skin this cat. If the thread helps some by looking at my anecdotal experience, great! But I will not be able to spend enough time in the garage with him, nor have the actual experiences, sufficient for a true "how to" by any means.

Well, alas, it does not appear that the auto tranny is running right. We are going to double check something, but after putting a good TCU in, the tranny ran pretty well, did not go into limp mode, but was wonky enough to say it is not correct. As I did not do the driving, I am not sure how else to describe it. Oh well. It was worth a try. Thanks A2VR6! I will get your TCW shipped back to you after I pick it up tomorrow.

So tomorrow, the auto tranny is scheduled to be dropped out. Onward and upward!

Shipping my ECU out to Charlie at Kerma today and ordering a tune and a swap flash. Ordering early now that the tranny is coming out so that hopefully the ECU will make it back for re-installation at the same time everything is going back together.

sunvalleylaw said:

Glow plugs update: Receipts show plugs were replaced in 2011 (about 30,000 miles ago) with new ones with the only number listed as "28F6". Not sure if that is a part number or a code for the shop. Oh, but I see a note that it was a request pursuant to the "N4" VW campaign, so it must be one of the recalls.

ZZ, glad to have you along. Will keep posting as I the project progresses.

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By looking at the old records more closely I was able to determine that on 3/1/11, this car had the N-105-916-09 NGK glow plugs put in, along with having the ECM updated. Did not see that part number before, and a google search confirms that those are updated NGK's. It did seem to fire right up before we put it "under the knife" for the swap. Good to know! Looks like I am good to go there.

It's always nice to get a free upgrade either from the previous owner or the dealer.

Work underway. Mechanic was off today and car hoist was down so no more pics at the moment, but moving along b

Auto tranny was out yesterday,




New tranny started back in today. But, . . . One little delay as the throwout bearing arrived damaged in transit or something. New one arriving tomorrow. So then it can all be put back together.

Q-loader from KermaTDI arrived today.



And the bench tuned ECU (level 2) with mod for manual tranny will arrive tomorrow as long as FedEx sticks to schedule. Excellent, and very quick service by Charlie and KermaTDI.

Things appear to be coming together!

Your mechanic did remember to install the needle bearing in the end of the crank before installing the gearbox correct?
Also a good time to replace the temp sensor housing and the tandem pump gasket while there is easy access to them.

vwztips said:

Your mechanic did remember to install the needle bearing in the end of the crank before installing the gearbox correct?

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I will check, but he stopped putting things together today when he discovered the damaged throwout bearing.

vwztips said:

Your mechanic did remember to install the needle bearing in the end of the crank before installing the gearbox correct?
Also a good time to replace the temp sensor housing and the tandem pump gasket while there is easy access to them.

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sunvalleylaw said:

I will check, but he stopped putting things together today when he discovered the damaged throwout bearing.

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Yes, he says no worries and it is in there. He knew to do that. He said as far as he knows, every car but Hondas and some transverse FWD VW's have them.

Also not a bad idea to replace the coolant manifold on the aft end of the cylinder head while the transmission is out. They get brittle with age, and are much easier to replace when the transmission is on the floor.

Same thing with the tandem pump/gasket if it is leaking.

Windex said:

Also not a bad idea to replace the coolant manifold on the aft end of the cylinder head while the transmission is out. They get brittle with age, and are much easier to replace when the transmission is on the floor.

Same thing with the tandem pump/gasket if it is leaking.

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I knew to look for leaks at the tandem pump and will do that. Do you have a part number for the coolant manifold you are talking about? Thanks.

That's what I was referring to with the temp sensor housing.
Water flange (back of head) 038-121-132D
Tandem pump seal 038-145-215
If you don't know when they were changed last, I highly recommend you change them now, whether they look like they are leaking or not. Relatively cheap and easy now to do.
For good measure install a new temp sensor as well 059-919-201A

vwztips said:

That's what I was referring to with the temp sensor housing.
Water flange (back of head) 038-121-132D
Tandem pump seal 038-145-215
If you don't know when they were changed last, I highly recommend you change them now, whether they look like they are leaking or not. Relatively cheap and easy now to do.
For good measure install a new temp sensor as well 059-919-201A

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Oh, I did not see your edit after you asked about the needle bearing. Yes, will look into that and do it if still possible.

Getting down to the final details. We seem to be missing the passenger side heat shield. Will it be a huge deal to go without it until I find one? Also, if anyone knows where to find one, please let me know.

Should be buttoning up the interior trim, and getting on to final flash and re-programming on Monday.