BRM Smart Actuator to Standard Vac Actuator Swap

I'm curious. I am showing the tell tale signs of a diminishing smart actuator on my BRM. I get not boost or power until 1800-2000 RPM and then bam.. turbo pressure and power kick in abruptly.

Before I change out the entire turbo for a PD140, and open that can of expensive worms, can I use a Mk4 standard non-smart actuator on my turbo?

Considering I have tuning, which eliminates the smart actuator control/codes anyhow, could this be a cheap alternative to temporarily correcting this issue, until a PD140 turbo goes in?

Zip-tie mod

Before putting time & money into this search for the zip-tie mod. I had the same symptoms and it took care of them.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/turbo-stop-screw-adjustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/

prsa01 said:

Before putting time & money into this search for the zip-tie mod. I had the same symptoms and it took care of them.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/turbo-stop-screw-adjustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/

Click to expand...

Tip tie mod fixed your lower power/no boost issues below 2000rpm?

My understanding was that the zip tie mod was only good for preventing overboost and boost spike/creep.

Hmmm. Tell me more.

PhunkFX said:

Tip tie mod fixed your lower power/no boost issues below 2000rpm?
My understanding was that the zip tie mod was only good for preventing overboost and boost spike/creep.
Hmmm. Tell me more.

Click to expand...

My symptoms were: no boost/dead spot at ~ 1800 - 2000 then huge surge. I found the car practically undrivable. Reduced the end-of-travel point with some hardware wire by ~ 1/4 inch. Totally eliminated the symptoms. I've on;y had mine like this for a few thousand miles but others have reported it has fixed their issue for a long time.

Certainly can't guarantee this will fix your issue but it's basically free to try before more expensive options

The BRM's actuator works in the opposite direction of the ALH (MK4) actuator.
i.e., vacuum causes the BRM actuator to extend the rod and ALH draws it inward.

The CBEA/CJAA's (common rail) actuator is the same configuration as the BRM's and there is a conversion kit to accomodate that.

But, what you describe as your problem is characteristic of what the zip tie mod addresses.

Zip tie mod will not 100% make the actuator perform as it should.
If zip tie mod partially solves the issue, your turbo/actuator needs adjustment using special equipment.
Zip tie mod is a temporary measure

Ok good info. Thanks guys. I'll let you know what I decide. On another note, which may be related, the car has surges/blips of increased pressure/power in and out while driving steady throttle, mostly noticed with cruise control on.

I did an output test in VCDS in Basic Settings of Charge Pressure, group 11. It worked fine, the numbers seemed within normal range, but I ended up getting that same surge/blip a couple times while in the performance test. I wonder what is up with that. Issues in tuning?

One quick test would be to disconnect the MAF sensor and go for a ride. Is the engine better or the same??
My recent cleaning of this sensor solved an issue I was having, but I have a new MAF sensor on it's way...

DonsJetta said:

One quick test would be to disconnect the MAF sensor and go for a ride. Is the engine better or the same??
My recent cleaning of this sensor solved an issue I was having, but I have a new MAF sensor on it's way...

Click to expand...

Will do, right after I finish my headlight replacement and fog light install today.
Thanks!