Tdi acme adapter to w56 runout woes

passatforbus · Feb 23, 2017

Tdi acme adapter to w56 runout
I realized I couldn't measure the runout once I removed the bellhousing and saw no place to measure from.
I read jimbotes "slice" bolted to the bell idea. This was in 2014. Has anyone come up with any other solution to measuring runout on the w56?
I have all new 10" clutch and flywheel and don't want to burn this stuff up.
Super bummed with acme right now.
I have the oilite bushing, anyone have the part number for the bearing?
Any good stories about this pair lasting without doing the runout? It "felt " real smooth going together.
Thanks

smelly621 · Feb 23, 2017

I can assure you it's not centered. Get in touch with Jimbote and see if the slice is available to borrow. If it's not in use by someone else, it might already be in your state!

Jimmy has bearing part #'s in his thread, but I believe he ended up using the supplied oilite bushing. I used this for my swap and so far the clutch engagement/shifting/etc. has felt better than before the swap. Any reason you don't want to use the bushing?

Also fyi - if you're using the 10" 5VZ clutch, I'm not sure if the 5vz throw-out bearing will fit, it is MUCH deeper. I used a 22r T/O bearing.

passatforbus · Feb 23, 2017

Thanks. Yes I'm using the 22r throwout. I bought the 10"flywheel from acme. I put the washer under the clutch fork head to line it up a bit better. Are you the one that did that? How did this work out?

I just thought a true bearing would be a little better. Bit if there's good reviews from the oilite I can be happy with it too
I just sent him a message. Someone should fab up an alignment jig.

1.9ZOOK · Feb 23, 2017

It would be nice if the dowel pins were located on this diagram...

smelly621 · Feb 23, 2017

Hey Passat4Bus - Not sure exactly where you mean, but I didn't use any additional washers when setting up the clutch fork. The geometry looked OK as-is so I didn't modify anything.

Zook - I know right? The more I think about it the more frustrated I am that I drilled out the one lower hole on the block to fit the adapter plate stud. Now the block is forever stuck in my Tacoma. Part of the idea with my swap was to have interchangeability between my golf and the Tacoma - but by enlarging that one hole you make it so you can't easily use the block in a VW application in the future.

Rockwell · Feb 24, 2017

smelly621 said:
Hey Passat4Bus - Not sure exactly where you mean, but I didn't use any additional washers when setting up the clutch fork. The geometry looked OK as-is so I didn't modify anything.

That was me. My clutch wouldnt disengage until the pedal was close to the floor. The thickness of the adapter plate pushes the pivot point further away from the clutch, I added the washer to push it back towards its original position. For me it made a difference, the clutch disengages where it should now. As far as I know, I'm the only one whos done this and the only one who's seemed to have an issue with it. Maybe it was unique to my situation, but it definitely improved my clutch feel and how it engages/disengages.

passatforbus · Feb 24, 2017

Yes, that's the pic I remember.
I tried my travel of the fork and didn't like it. I though of this picture of yours. It brought the fork up to the slave cyl top where I get more travel from it. We'll see.

Rockwell · Feb 24, 2017

I'm curious how it works out for you, give some feedback once you get to play around with it

Gordon Peterson · Feb 24, 2017

Let me know if you need any of the dimensions, i have them all for the ALH.

passatforbus · Mar 7, 2017

I have jimbotes "slice" rig strapped up to the motor, this thing was out 130 thow! Shhesh. After a couple hours of shaving housing holes im within +/- 7 thow. Trying to get it closer

Windex · Mar 7, 2017

Anyone got a picture of the "Slice" rig?

Not planning a conversion any time soon, but would like to get an idea of how this rig would measure the runout.

lews930 · Mar 7, 2017

Does jimbote loan that thing or rent it? Either way I'd like to put my name in line for it

passatforbus · Mar 7, 2017

*

Here's pics of the slice bolted to my belI. took some videos of the before and after runout. Can't post videos though.
My problem now is finding dowel pins. I'm having to grind some down to fit. ...my bell had none with it. Then ill tack/mig them into place on the acme plate. What a turd this job is. ...I'd rather be working on the paint right now.
I'm .006 out now. .going to be happy with that

Windex · Mar 7, 2017

Forgive me if this has been discussed... how do you make sure the "slice" is lined up perfectly on your bellhousing?

passatforbus · Mar 7, 2017

The slice has alignment pins. Lines up every time

A-man930 · Mar 7, 2017

So how does this "slice" piece help without the bearing and input shaft installed??
I don't get it...

1.9ZOOK · Mar 7, 2017

This is from the Novac site,you indicate the bearing opening.

jimbote · Mar 8, 2017

keep in mind that this technique for centering the trans to the crank is a must when line boring a block... line boring the block moves the crank centerline UP in relation to the input shaft thus creating a crank/trans eccentricity that has to be compensated for..... and as it turns out it's also good technique for correcting that crappy adapter plate you just purchased or can be used for centering your own crude homebuilt but precise plate

Windex · Mar 8, 2017

passatforbus said:
The slice has alignment pins. Lines up every time

I get that, but what work was done to ensure that the slice plate centerline lines up with the bellhousing centerline? (given that the bellhousing does not have a convenient circular opening for the transmission to bolt to)

Was the transmission installed, measured and then the holes/pins cnc'd into the slice in order to ensure a precise center?

Don't get me wrong, I think it's an awesome technique to ensure centering on a bellousing with no circular measurable surface. Just looking for the details.

passatforbus · Mar 8, 2017

I think I see what your asking.
The slice Is just the front cut off another similar type transmission. I am assuming that if I bolt up any of the similar type transmissions to this bell (that I had to centre) that the input shaft placement is the same with others of the same type.

The slice is factory pinned and machened.should match the centre bore of all w series toyota trans.

passatforbus · Mar 8, 2017

Now that you got me thinking about it. Im just a wrench turniner not a machinist. If there's someone out there that can substantiate my assumptions please set us straight.

jimbote · Mar 8, 2017

you are correct in your assumptions... the factory tolerance and interchangability between toyota trannies can be counted on to be very accurate as are most oe dowel pinned applications ... there are some domestic engines sbf, sbc that have been known to be innacurate (and not all by any means)... but toyota is not in that group

lews930 · Mar 8, 2017

Can I borrow the slice?

jimbote · Mar 8, 2017

lews930 said:
Can I borrow the slice?

slice only works for W series ... you could remove your maincase and use that or find a spare R series trans case and cut it down to make for easier reading of the dial indicator

passatforbus · Mar 8, 2017

Had it dialed in to 0!. But after setting the pins I was. 008 out. Bummer. .. not too worried. .didn't take as many days as I thought it would to do the job

papasmurf · Mar 13, 2017

I was gonna ask to borrow it too but I also have the r series trans. Lews930, do you have the other dually whom I keep talking to on facebook?

Guess I'll check the runout, hate to do it but the engine and trans are coming out, no better time to do it.

lews930 · Mar 14, 2017

Papasmurf, no. Bigger problems at this point. Uggh

Swampdog · Dec 4, 2021

Holy thread revival, lol
I've just joined your forum as I also have alignment issues with the acme adapter plate to an r series gearbox. I was wondering if anyone actually got anywhere with acme regarding this issue, as I seem to be getting nowhere with them, they simply refuse to admit there's an issue, and looking at the dates if this thread, it's nearly 5 years on now!!!
Anyway here's a video I made showing just how far out of alignment the plate actually is. I made this vid to demonstrate to them the issue, but they claim they can't open the link???? Hmmmm?

Maybe because im in the UK, they simply don't think they need to bother with me?

Anyway, I'd be interested to hear from anyone that got somewhere with them.

Many thanks

Gary

jimbote · Dec 5, 2021

Swampdog said:
Holy thread revival, lol
I've just joined your forum as I also have alignment issues with the acme adapter plate to an r series gearbox. I was wondering if anyone actually got anywhere with acme regarding this issue, as I seem to be getting nowhere with them, they simply refuse to admit there's an issue, and looking at the dates if this thread, it's nearly 5 years on now!!!
Anyway here's a video I made showing just how far out of alignment the plate actually is. I made this vid to demonstrate to them the issue, but they claim they can't open the link???? Hmmmm?

Maybe because im in the UK, they simply don't think they need to bother with me?

Anyway, I'd be interested to hear from anyone that got somewhere with them.

Many thanks

Gary

Honestly, your time would be better spent correcting the plate you have. I don't think ACME is interested in correcting the issue because most people don't put enough miles on these conversations for the long term problems from misalignment to arise. If you can find yourself an R150, AX15, etc scrap case the slice is easy to make.

PickleRick · Dec 5, 2021

I thought the consensus was Acme had addressed the issues with their newer kits? I didn't realize the newer kits still had the alignment issues.

There are only a few tdi adapter plate builders. Acme is the only one I've heard of with these issues.

Tdi acme adapter to w56 runout woes

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