So I was tired of dingy license plate bulbs...

Another member of the club recently asked my about my license plate light(s) as they've shown up in a couple photos over here in the challenge thread. Or at least that is where I assume he's seen it. Now, what I did was something entirely custom. I've never considered posting about this because all except 1 or two people who I've shown the car have never noticed the light.

I didn't want to drop ~10 or so bucks on two LED replacements. Plus the seals on the lenses were deteriorating and the screws were barely staying in. For other side projects I had some left over acrylic so I decided to put it to use. Also, I had stumbled across some pre-made CCFL assemblies designed for the 12V power busses in computer systems.

First, here are two quick shots at about sunset with the light on an off.




Anyhow, here is what I did...
Since the plastic lenses were going to age more by as the years went by while owning the car, I traced their outline on some 1/4" acrylic, and went at it with a dremel. I drilled out the holes for the screws, and the with the dremel, did what I could to create a recessed grove for the clips that came with the CCFL (I'll give more details about it's specifics at the end). Oh! cannot forget about a groove for the wire to go inside the trunk for power. Add a little bit of silicone sealant and screw everythign together...

Mind you, I've had this installed for over a year now.

Here is a comparison shot if I flip the light towards install.


Even at sunset, I had to wait about 15 minutes before it was dark enough to actually photograph how fircken bright this light is.





And here is a comparison with the tail lights on:




Continued below...

Continuation

As I said above, I've had this installed for over a year. I have not taken the light off at all since I installed it. One of the worries I had when I bought it since there were not sufficient photos was whether or not the assembly was sealed. Low and behold when I took it out of the box, it was!



Oh, and here is proof that I haven't touch it. This is the top side that is completely obstructed from view when it's installed.



Keen observes may notice that there is a clear thing-a-ma-jig that is in the photos that is on the light, but it's somewhat discrete. This is a clear plastic J-bar that I cut and sanded as a light shield for the CCFL.



The mounting position of the B4's lights actually has them angled away from the car by a few degrees. Only problem is that this opening of the light (which is side firing) then creates a bit of glare for drivers behind me. This is why I installed this little guy with some silicone after planting the light-facing-side with some silver paint for reflectivity and to block the light.
This next shot shows a comparison between stock tungsten filament bulbs on a family B4 with my installed CCFL. The shot after it is with the J-bar in place.





One of the reasons this light is so clean is that the covering for the light is frosted on the inside. This makes the light output verrrrry smooth and diffuse.



With all of that taken care of, before I dropped the money on the light, I was able to find it's dimensions and they are fairly compact and the light installs pretty cleanly. I'm sorry, but I didn't want to get inside the trunk all of the way, but I have it's power lines crimped to just one of the original power lines for the bulbs.

This brings me to my primary concern when I first installed the CCFL. It's made for a 12V system. When the car is running, the alternator produces a solid 14.4V give or take. This is a 20% difference in voltage. I wasn't sure if I was going to burn it out or not. Since I've installed it, I've driving 25-30K miles. A little more than those are at night and this has been running continuously without a problem. After a couple of minutes of being powered on, the ends get a little warm to the touch, but I've *never* had a problem with it.

The model number for this CCFL specifically is CXS12WT. If you want a front firing one (the light is reflected out the narrow end) the part number is CXF12WT, but that won't work for a license plate light.
The CCFL assembly is made my Logisys. It is one of many models in 12" or 20" lengths. It's rated to consume 7.2 watts. Even for the 20-inchers if memory serves. Here are the commonly quoted specs I see online for it:

• Naked Lamp Diameter: 2.6+/-1.0mm
• Tube Length: 12"(appr. 305mm) 20"(appr. 510mm)
• External Tube and Base Dimension: 12mm x 22.5mm
• Inverter Input Voltage: 12VDC
• Lamp Voltage: 1000V +/-10%
• Frequency: 60KHz +/-10%
• Lamp Current: 6.5mA +/-1.0
• Total Power: 7.2W
• Brightness: 30000Cd/m2

You can also pics these up in red, blue, green, pink, and UV. The 12" lights are just under 20 bucks shipped from most online dealers and if you want a 20" one, just add 2-3 bucks to that. Oh, and I just light how inexpensive and solid this product is. I'm in no way associates with any vendor or the manufacturer

you are the man! i like this a lot. when you give more info on the ccfl, it will be going into mine! that is a perfect size for the plate too.

Don't forget to do a how to for the estate/wagon too

I need to have a look at a fellow member's wagon to let you know if it'll fit.

Just run a google search for the part number and you'll find these CCFL's everywhere. The leat expensive I've found them is on a site called eio.com

A note about this photo

Digital Corpus said:

Click to expand...

The light is currently laying on it's side so the illumination is on the trunk lid (in this pic specifically). If this were the front facing model, it would be shining out the side that is facing the camera.

i found a few for sale, with and without ballast. did you need it?
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/decorative-ccfl-300mm-light-tube-lamp-12v-inverter-ballast-driver.html

In case anyone was wondering, I was the curious forum member

Thanks for the write-up!
This will be added to my to do list as I am also dissappointed with the dim factory lights, and LED replacements were less than awesome.

Vince

deejaaa said:

i found a few for sale, with and without ballast. did you need it?
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/decorative-ccfl-300mm-light-tube-lamp-12v-inverter-ballast-driver.html

Click to expand...

Yes, that would work. The balast is what converts the DC current to the needed high voltage AC current. I don't know about how sealed that case and container are though.

With a setup like that it could work, but I'd be careful. You get what you payoff. Over-voltingthe hardware by 20% is nothing to laugh at. If it were 10% I wouldn't worry, but 20% is beyond most perceived electrical tolerances.

WINDSORB4TDI said:

In case anyone was wondering, I was the curious forum member

Thanks for the write-up!
This will be added to my to do list as I am also dissappointed with the dim factory lights, and LED replacements were less than awesome.

Vince

Click to expand...

You're welcome Vince. Hope all is in order for what was done. It's really a straight forward install. With that license plate frame of mine, it's a little tight, but never had and issue.

i like the one from https://www.eio.com/p-23156-logisys-cxs12wt-true-color-12-ccfl-side-light-bar-white.aspx esp when its tried and true.

Two more pics since I'm installing 2-20", one white and one red, in my trunk at the moment.

This is the terminal that comes on the light. Minor modification is required if you want to keep stock terminals on the car.


This is the connection for the license plate light. I used some metal sheers to trim away excess parts of the flat blades and some "liquid rubber" to expand the heat shrink to prevent shorting and arching:


Up close shot of unmodified terminations as I test the new lights before install:

The license plate light is nice- I'm wondering if any cops would pull someone over for it,as it is so bright it partially obscures the plate #..... in NY they probably would.....

Okay, so I decided to do a couple photos while I wait for my brother to return the dremel for polishing his side arms in order to create the hole to mount the switch for the lights and clean everything up. However, here are some teaser shots of the mounted lights and how bright they are. Keep in mind, it's still broad daylight right now...

Off:


White:


Red:

tdidieselbobny said:

The license plate light is nice- I'm wondering if any cops would pull someone over for it,as it is so bright it partially obscures the plate #..... in NY they probably would.....

Click to expand...

The human eye responds differently and has a much much much greater dynamic range than a camera. Though it looks like it obscures the numbers in the photos, it doesn't.

Digital Corpus said:

….…some teaser shots of the mounted lights and how bright they are. Keep in mind, it's still broad daylight right now...

Click to expand...

can't wait to this also, esp at night.

I've been busy. I completed the install that day. Night is about 4.5 hrs away

Digital Corpus said:

I've been busy. I completed the install that day. Night is about 4.5 hrs away

Click to expand...

that should be about, now.......................

True, but driving to a far far away to take more photos kinda trumps these shots. I'm working on editing said photos and then I'll go out and take a few for this install...

Sorry for the delay. Preparation for vacation and work has gotten in the way. When I get back, hopefully I can finish the truck's new support frame and audio install...

Anyhow, here are two shots, one with the red and one with the white:

Your car is entirely too clean inside the trunk area. Just sayin.

I haven't taken pictures of the back seat so be careful when you say that.

I did clean the carpet when I pulled it out to redo the trunk floor. Once it gets support I don't mind if it gets a bit dirty. There is actually plastic debris scattered inside from the primary support I used.

My trunk used to be clean. I think it's going to get a bamboo floor.
I haul too many bags of mulch and other odd stuff that gets into it. Carpet must go!

Digital Corpus said:

This brings me to my primary concern when I first installed the CCFL. It's made for a 12V system. When the car is running, the alternator produces a solid 14.4V give or take. This is a 20% difference in voltage. I wasn't sure if I was going to burn it out or not. Since I've installed it, I've driving 25-30K miles. A little more than those are at night and this has been running continuously without a problem. After a couple of minutes of being powered on, the ends get a little warm to the touch, but I've *never* had a problem with it.
The model number for this CCFL specifically is CXS12WT. If you want a front firing one (the light is reflected out the narrow end) the part number is CXF12WT, but that won't work for a license plate light.
The CCFL assembly is made my Logisys. It is one of many models in 12" or 20" lengths. It's rated to consume 7.2 watts. Even for the 20-inchers if memory serves. Here are the commonly quoted specs I see online for it:

• Naked Lamp Diameter: 2.6+/-1.0mm
• Tube Length: 12"(appr. 305mm) 20"(appr. 510mm)
• External Tube and Base Dimension: 12mm x 22.5mm
• Inverter Input Voltage: 12VDC
• Lamp Voltage: 1000V +/-10%
• Frequency: 60KHz +/-10%
• Lamp Current: 6.5mA +/-1.0
• Total Power: 7.2W
• Brightness: 30000Cd/m2

Click to expand...

FYI, it looks like the data sheets provided with the small ones have been updated a bit and they consume about 3.8W. Noticed this when helping a firned install on for his MK VI but happen to find out that when the engine is running that the power source goes from a 100% DC PWM signal to about a 50-60% DC PWM signal. I haven't characterized the waveform specifically but when I have a chance to, I'll fab up a smoothing circuit for him.

Very impressive, but damn, almost TOO bright! Many states have regulations about showing a white light to the rear, particularly in the east. I'd worry about getting a ticket off that. Not like they have real work to do...

With how photos are and how I shot it, it shows up brighter than how the human eye sees it. Also with the J-bar in place the light is just facing down and as I don't get a reaction from others because you don't notice that its a custom light. It looks OE.

And now you have added another item to my wish list!
I've been complaining about the lousy and mostly useless trunk light for some time, as I use my car as a mobile toolbox (mobile mech as a 2nd job).
I had been contemplating these LED pods:

But, your solution is SO MUCH BETTER!!
Thanks for the inspiration,
Vince

Corpus,

Very nice setup on the plates. I will have to try that out. I wouldn't worry about the smoothing circuit too much, I had 8 of these CCFL tubes in my previous car when I installed my custom audio setup in the trunk and never had any issues even with voltage swings you're seeing, the ballast was tolerant of them and never had a failure.

You can use them in so many places, trunk, hood lights, even under the dash area to light up the floor etc.

I'm not seeing voltage swings. I'm relatively (without a checking with and oscilloscope) sure that its a PWM signal.

LED arrays and CCFLs each have their own aesthetics, limitations/advantages, etc. thank you both for liking the setup. I have future plans but life keeps getting in the way.

I didn't pull any screen shots, but I did pull the waveform via a CSV file. The rear license plate lights for a mkVII Golf are driven by a 100 Hz, 86% duty cycle PWM wave. Fun part of the wave is though it has a positive peak voltage of 14 V, it had a negative peak voltage of 0.8 V. This coupled with a 300 mv max ripple, I can understand why the ballast for the CCFL acted like this was a 50% DC PWM source... Anyhow, looking into a RC smoothing circuit that will handle 5W of power pumping through it.

It must be nice to be bilingual, DC.