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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old March 6th, 2018, 19:07   #1
Revster
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Manitoba
TDI(s): 2006 Jetta
Default Jetta vs me

Hello all,

I have done a ton of reading on here but this is my first time posting. I have a 2006 Jetta TDI that I am pretty sure hates me. My father-in-law gave me the car after it sat for 6 months. My first day driving it left me stranded 2-hours from home. After some reading on this site I figured out it was the immobilizer. So I sent my ECU away for the immo delete treatment.

Today I fired it up, immo delete worked and the car is starting fine however it is running on 3 cylinders and THE AUTO TRANS NO LONGER WORKS!! With the car in D it will drive in 1st gear but will not shift. I am however able to shift the gears in the manual mode.

Other than the immobilizer issue this car ran beautiful. The ECU gets flashed while the car sat in a heated garage and now it doesn't run properly and the transmission doesn't work! Could some sort of mistake during the flash cause these issues or do I just have really bad luck?

I have been searching but have not found anything similar, but sometimes you need to know what to search. Let me know if you know of a thread I should read or if you can help. thanks!
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Old March 7th, 2018, 09:11   #2
narongc73
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Fix engine
Convert to manual
Problem solved
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Old March 7th, 2018, 16:50   #3
Revster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narongc73 View Post
Fix engine
Convert to manual
Problem solved
The "convert to manual" part made me lol (as my kids say). No chance will I be investing that much time into this car.
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Old March 7th, 2018, 19:04   #4
Tdijarhead
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Seriously converting to manual is the solution to the problem. Once the engine is up to snuff and you’ve replaced that paperweight transmission with a 5 or 6 spd you’ll have a car that will go several hundred thousand miles.

Do a search on this site of the conversions that have been made and are being made. The model years 99.5-03 were the worst auto transmissions vw ever made, so many conversions have been done. 04-06 were a little better but apparently not yours.

Last edited by Tdijarhead; March 7th, 2018 at 19:07.
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Old March 8th, 2018, 06:17   #5
Revster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdijarhead View Post
Seriously converting to manual is the solution to the problem. Once the engine is up to snuff and you’ve replaced that paperweight transmission with a 5 or 6 spd you’ll have a car that will go several hundred thousand miles.

Do a search on this site of the conversions that have been made and are being made. The model years 99.5-03 were the worst auto transmissions vw ever made, so many conversions have been done. 04-06 were a little better but apparently not yours.
I get that it is a viable option. I am just not willing to invest that much of my time into this car. I have 3 motorcycle projects on the go that are on standby till this car is out of the shop. I would rather spend my time on bikes.

I heard back from the tuner, they said to send the ECU back to them. I am going to start there. I still think it is strange that the car went from running beautiful (when the immo let it start) to having an engine and transmission problem in a period of a week while sitting in a heated shop. I want to eliminate an issue with the ECU before I start chasing my tail.
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Old March 8th, 2018, 10:10   #6
325_Guy
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Applying Troubleshooting Principles 101 here: Check your grounds in the engine bay.

Transmission replacement, absent any other troubleshooting steps, would be rather ridiculous at this point. Might as well add "buy new car" on the flowchart.
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Old March 8th, 2018, 11:06   #7
Carlos_TJ
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I would start with a VCDS scan of the car.

Both the engine and the transmission problem could be caused by many different things. Some of them simple, others far more complex. But throwing darts in the dark is no good.

These cars have very powerful on board diagnostics.
Most likely there is extensive data collected by the ECU waiting for retrieval.

Dont bother using Vato Zone code reader service. They just cover generic OBDII codes.

Look for someone in your area with VCDS. There is a list by location on this same site. Most people with VCDS will help a brother out.

What you decide to do once the data is interpreted will be a far more objective and rational decision.

Good luck

Last edited by Carlos_TJ; March 8th, 2018 at 11:15.
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Old March 10th, 2018, 17:27   #8
Revster
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Thanks for the feedback guys. The question I am asking is not what could these problems be or how to trouble shoot them. What I was asking was could some sort of error have occurred during the flash to cause these problems? I don't want to waste a bunch of time (which I don't have much of) trouble shooting it if the issue is in the ECU.

The company that flashed it did not come out and say that it could be the flash but they said to send it back to them they will see if the data needs to be written again.

I think by saying that they are saying yes its possible it was the flash. I think it would be an extreme case of bad mojo for a vehicle to develop two pretty big issues at the same time while parked in a shop.

I am planning to pull the ECU out this weekend and ship it monday.
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Old March 13th, 2018, 19:24   #9
Revster
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Located a guy about 50 miles away with VCDS that does scans. Here is the results:

RE engine issue....

2 Faults Found:
005736 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 3 (N242)
P1668 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 202829 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:01:28

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 924 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 11.63 V
Inj. Quantity: -0.85 mg/str
Temperature: 4.5°C
(no units): 0.0

000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 000 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 202829 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:08:23

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 777 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.52 V
Inj. Quantity: 2.96 mg/str
Temperature: 18.9°C
(no units): 128.0

Re trans.....

1 Fault Found:
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation
P1741 - 002 - Limit Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 255
Reset counter: 2
Mileage: 202866 km
Time Indication: 0
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Old March 13th, 2018, 19:26   #10
Revster
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Interestingly he cleared the codes and the engine ran good on the way home. It was back to building RPMs quickly and the power returned.

However the trans was the same.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 12:33   #11
crazyrunner33
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Try running an adaption on VCDS for the DSG transmission. It's basically a relearn process.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 14:14   #12
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Try checking the wiring harness along the front of the engine over the starter.
There is a well documented history of strange occurrences that can happen when bared wires touch one another. The tip off may be the injector code. It is most likely the in-head harness which happens often enough or the fat wiring harness previously mentioned. You may have more than a couple of un-insulated or broken leads along that run.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 16:12   #13
Revster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyrunner33 View Post
Try running an adaption on VCDS for the DSG transmission. It's basically a relearn process.
Yeah I read about that after I got back. It was a 50 mile trip to get the codes read, didn't know about that till after.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JETaah View Post
Try checking the wiring harness along the front of the engine over the starter.
There is a well documented history of strange occurrences that can happen when bared wires touch one another. The tip off may be the injector code. It is most likely the in-head harness which happens often enough or the fat wiring harness previously mentioned. You may have more than a couple of un-insulated or broken leads along that run.
Just read about that today. I pulled the air box and battery to locate that, the plastic cover is still in place and in tact around the wires? Does the rub occur inside the protective cover? Maybe i should open it and check them.

I am planning to change trans fluid/filter and fuel filter just to eliminate them and might as well while I have the battery box off. Based on the dirt on the filter covers they likely both need done.

Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 18:27   #14
JETaah
 
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Yeah
That where it all happens.... inside the corrugated loom..
Pull them out, pull the tape off, and separate them. Look them over.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 20:59   #15
Revster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JETaah View Post
Yeah
That where it all happens.... inside the corrugated loom..
Pull them out, pull the tape off, and separate them. Look them over.
Ok thanks I will pull them out tomorrow.
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