Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Like Mike_04GolfTDI, I have had the inner lining on brake lines separate and have it act as a check valve. I have experienced it firsthand.Return it. I am not seeing how that could cause the problem. A hose leaks or doesn't and if it was clogged by some weird chance, you wouldn't even have braking, and thus no drag.
And like UhOh said, do not use anti-seize on the brakes, it has no place there and here is why: it migrates and dries. I have had to literally drill out caliper sliders that previous 'mechanics' used anti-seize on as a lubricant, of which it was not designed. It was designed to keep parts from rusting together, not to lubricate. I've seen this many times.
The real brake grease is cheap and lasts a long time. I do brakes all the time on all manner of vehicles and have yet to go through a tube in 5 years.
As to the brake pad lubricant, this is what I use:
CRC Disc Brake Quiet
Put it anywhere the pad contacts the carrier or piston. It never fully hardens so it creates a vibration barrier between the pieces. Sometimes the brake pads will have an anti-vibration pad already installed and sometimes you install the pad yourself. I still use this when necessary since it can't hurt. Just don't overdo it, it doesn't take much.
A brake pad is similar to running your finger over the top of a crystal glass, where it makes the resonance sound. If you put something on your finger, which creates a barrier, the crystal will no longer sing. This does just that so the pads will no longer sing. The brake pad shims do the same thing but often are missing or no longer fit. When they do 'fit', they don't fit like they should and thus don't work properly. I have found many of today's pads are covered with a coating so they don't slide properly and require grinding the coating off the ends so they will.
To reduce the pad squeal you have now, use the brake pad lubricant, lube the sliders (not too much, don't pack the grease in, just a light coating), and swap the pads side to side if they're worn.
I would not replace the ABS unit unless it's a last resort. A simple Vag-Com scan should tell you if it's working. A brake purge should be performed before then to determine flow as well. It will show you a restriction in the system if it exists.
Motive Power Bleeders for these cars are cheap and well worth the money.
Aftermarket calipers are hit or miss but it's not easy to find OEM non-rebuilt ones anymore. If they are, look at the country of manufacture, which is probably China. I'd rather have a rebuilt in Mexico than a made in China anything because at least the rebuilt will be with decent parts.
This is probably your parking brake cable and not the caliper, and it's either ice or rust. It's common since they build up water inside from intrusion or condensation. I filled mine with pure G12 to combat this, so far no problems and it's been years over many vehicles. I got the idea from someone else on here, can't remember who now. G12/13 is designed to combat corrosion and will only dilute slightly when it contacts water. I just drip it down the cable until it comes out, but I have pressurized it and vacuumed it through as well. It's cheap and easy insurance.timeline said:I have one that has been hanging up frozen and locks up in the AM. All I have to do though is pull hard on the EM brake and it releases immediately.
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