Broken accessory bolt hole

the*rogue

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Location
Davenport, IA
TDI
2002 Jetta Auto now a 6sp, 1986 (Non-TDI) Jetta
2002 ALH Jetta TDI.

Well, I found my accessory bracket to be broken in half. Towards the bottom by the AC compressor. I took it off, only to discover the lowest most center bolt sheered off in the hole, and it isn't coming out - I've tried. It just isn't going to happen. I drilled it, unfortunately too far. I'm though the block into the sump area. I figure I can patch that with some silicon/RTV product, there isn't too much pressure there, so I'm not overly worried about that.

So now what. Just slap another accessory bracket on, don't run the AC and hope it doesn't just crack the next one.

Any help would be appreciated.

Andy
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
http://www.timesert.com/
Drill it out with the proper size dill bit, tap it out and insert this helicoid into it. Make sure you use either black RTV on the threads of both helicoil and the new bolt. On 350sbc and most other 350 engines it’s typical to be required to try or pipe threads boiler sealer on the threads of the intake manifold because it goes into the water jacket. Make sure you use STAINESS bolt and if possible stainless helicoil so the coolant does not rust it out. By sump area you mean the oil gallery? Either case RTV the threads. I don’t use boiler thread compound anymore as it’s messy and sometimes does not do the job right. 200K miles I have ran threads into a water jacket area and never had issues. If you drilled into the oil system, do a flush before you start eh engine. Bits of metal are now in your system.
Fill the crank with ATF and acetone mixed 1 part acetone to 10 parts ATF. Fill it up and then drain it. This should get most of it out or more importantly near the oil pickup so that it’s caught into the filer. Don’t run the car until new fresh oil is on. Flush the ATF out with new oil. You’re going to eat the coast of ATF and a full 5 quarts of oil but it’s worth it to try and get any metal out.
 

the*rogue

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Location
Davenport, IA
TDI
2002 Jetta Auto now a 6sp, 1986 (Non-TDI) Jetta
Yes, it is in the oil sump area. I think it may be too messed up for a helicoil now. Thanks for the advice.

Damn it.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Drill it our MORE. You can do a HARD plug; this is where you make your own plug. Get some stainless stock, say 10mm. get a 9mm tap and die. Make threads on the 10mm bar with the 9mm die. Now bolt that into some 9mm nuts and then drill out the center of it to the desired size (the bolt you busted and don’t go all the way past the end. Now you have your own custom plug. Drill out the block to the same size for the plug you made and tap the threads into the block. You get what I’m going for here. It’s a crap ton of work but you are not going to be able to weld anything to the cast, trust me, no jb weld, no TIG, NOTHING is going to weld that cast in place. The only way to fix this properly is to take the block out and strip it bare. But if you do it right, this plug is not a bad way to go. At this point no matter what you do, you are taking the oil pan OFF.
There is one idea that could work but I would not try it unless you can access this from the back side with the oil pan off. If you can drill it out and get to it from the back side, do it, clean it out 100% with brake clean and rags and a wire brush. Use Weld Stick. It’s a JB weld brand product. You brake a bit off the stick and mix it up really well for like 30 seconds by rolling in your hands and folding and rolling really fast. It will get hot. Jam it into your perfectly clean hole and build it up a tiny bit on both sides. After it dries (about 2 hours) you can grind the outer side flat and drill and tap it without going though. It’s hard as steel. I had success and failure with this so it’s your call. The issue is that if it fails and some of it breaks off into your oil pan you might blow up your engine. You don’t want any bits of metal what so ever falling into your pan. The issue is that the parts will get into the oil pump, bust that up, and send bits of metal into the filter and if some get past this you’re done. It will kill the oil pump though and if you don’t have an oil PSI gauge on your car (recommends Auber) you’re going to have low oil pressure and that will kill your engine over time or very quickly depending on the lack of pressure.

Your only other option is to plug it off and figure something out to make it work.
As it is you need to pull your pan now and do a massive flush

Take note. Next time you drill things out, take care not to go too deep.
 

UhOh

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Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Might want to check out Time-Serts.

I can somewhat relate as I recently broke a coolant temperature sensor (brass) in my diesel generator! Was at wits-end and decided to, with a big extractor bit stuffed in the middle of the remains, run the generator. Temperature changed enough such that I was then able to break it free.
 
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