Thinking of joining the TDI Club, Refurbishing a wreck?

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
Hi all. A few months ago my fiance got into a wreck in our old accord. It was totald by our insurance company. They gave us a very generous settlement, but took possession of the vehicle as part of it. We've been vehicleless since, but finally have our finance stuff in order and can purchase a vehicle.

Since then, I've spent probably way, way too much time and energy trying to decide on what vehicle to replace it with. I have a bit of an issue with analysis-paralysis, especially when it comes to purchases (the more expensive, the worse it is). This is the most expensive purchase I've made as an adult, our budget is roughly 14,000 with some wiggle room. Our financed amount is 10,000. This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to buying a vehicle though, I grew up going with my dad when he'd buy/sell cars which he did fairly regularly being a retired mechanic. I've helped past employers, friends, etc find and buy cars. I enjoy doing it to an extent.

However when it comes to myself and my fiance, It's been pretty bad. Though I attribute a lot of it to our financing situation only being resolved in the last week.

In anycase, I've gone from originally focusing pretty heavily on getting a TDI Beetle that I could flip through the buyback (was just a thought, a few months ago when I was researching. Didn't know about the settlement till then), Buick Regal/Verano, to a Kia Optima (12-13) SX/L Turbo, buying from Canada since it's hella cheaper up there, to Hyundai Sonata, to finding out we can't buy a canadian vehicle with our loan, to looking at TDIs again since they seem to be everywhere. To looking at Canadian cars again because our financing situation is resolved! All the while sometimes toying with the idea of buying a salvage auction vehicle.

Well, since our financing situation allows it, I've been more seriously looking at salvage vehicles. There are quite a few auction lots near me (PNW) which puts me in a fairly good position to purchase something from Copart or IAIA or whatever. I have no idea how to refurbish one myself, and would likely pay a shop to do it. I just want to know if anyone has experience with buying and refurbishing cars in general, at this point. What to look for when buying, what to write off completely, what to look for in a repair shop, how long it takes from lot -> fixed car, etc.

Getting a rebuilt title in WA is fairly straight forward, you need the title and an appointment to have a state trooper do an inspection. It doesn't cover any structural issues, just state/federal laws for lighting, exhausts, etc.

Thats not to say I want to get a piece of crap through inspection, this is something my fiance and I would be driving hopefully for 10+ years like our accord.

I've been looking at TDIs because I've found quite a few 15 TDI golfs with decent mileage, in or close to our price range. Especially after factoring in the secondary restitution check from the other modification.

Drove a few recently, including an unmodified '10 TDI Jetta we found the Monday after black Friday, we were pretty ecstatic because with the restitution + modification on it the car would only end up costing us ~8k instead of 14k which is nice when you're fairly poor (single income while I'm in school). In anycase, I liked the car. It accelerated nice, the engine was quiet, the interior was good (though the backseats weren't very comfortable), everything was in great shape. Some guy in HW bought it out from under us though while we were signing papers. Put 80% down over the phone. Guess he may have been a flipper?

After researching more thuroughly it seemed like the Jetta we had found then was basically a needle in a haystack, especially for it being local (and just down the road). I've since found unmodified TDIs but they've been all over the US, and really only a small handful that were truly unmodified and not just reporting that way.

This has gotten a bit away from me, as I was saying with salvage cars, finding an unmodified one (or modified for the 15 year ones) is a lot easier, though it's not a requirement of what we're doing. We're not looking to flip stuff, it just presents an opportunity for a way for us to get a car that would normally be quite outside of our budget, well within it. It's hard to pass up, and is a similar situation to us looking at CA cars. Like the Optima SX's being ~11.5-13k USD In CA, versus same mile/year being 19-23k here.

The whole time of course in the back of my head I've had a voice telling me that we don't deserve to get a nice car, that we should just get something basic within our budget and be happy about for it. I can't really reconcile that with my logic/thinking brain though. "Why would we settle for something worse in every way when we can get something quite good potentially cheaper?" Is always my response. I guess it's just some kind societal conditioning about being poor and having nice things being incompatible.

Huh, this is a very long post. Sorry about the live-journal entry here.

I guess the tl;dr is this: Is buying an auction salvage to refurb for personal use, a bad idea? Does anyone here buy/refurbish salvage cars? What should we look out for? Is getting the restitution/modification on a rebuilt car difficult?
Should we just try to get a clean '15, and take that restitution for part two?
Should we try to find an unmodified clean TDI?
Is buying a Canadian TDI a bad idea?

Thanks for reading. if you made it this far hats off. Also to any moderation who may read this: Apologies if this is the wrong forum, I realize it is a long post but since my question(s) aren't super specific I wasn't positive where to put it!
 
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UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
What are your REQUIREMENTS?

For what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend trying to get a vehicle from Canada. The process will be WAY more than you might think: pretty much have to utilize an importer, after which by the time you pay those fees and all the import duties you're not going to be saving much of anything, all the while being exposed to a lot of frustrating processing.
 

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
What are your REQUIREMENTS?

For what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend trying to get a vehicle from Canada. The process will be WAY more than you might think: pretty much have to utilize an importer, after which by the time you pay those fees and all the import duties you're not going to be saving much of anything, all the while being exposed to a lot of frustrating processing.
Requirements for features and stuff? Idk, a backup camera is basically all I want. Fiance is a lot more confident with one and they are pretty dang handy. nothing is really required though, since we had been looking at 2010-13 models where Backup cameras were rare/not existent.
Don't really care about the color. Mileage is important but as long as it's under the ~12-15k a year average It's ok. Obviously lower the better though.

Can you expand on the Canadian import part? We were basically almost done with it before our financing fell through, in terms of paperwork and all that. It doesn't seem that bad, especially on vehicles manufactured in NA since you can skip the 2.5% duty on them. The Canadian Kia's are all manufactured in Korea though. We didn't need the letter from Kia for them since they had US EPA/California emissions stickers. Though we had one just in case.

AFAIK The import process required from us:
EPA Form fillout, with a specific box check for conforming vehicles (with stickers)
CAD registration/Title
Duty Fee(s)
Possible 30 day impounding (though apparently rare)
Another importation form
Kia letter wasn't required in this case but could possibly make things easier (had it)
Proof of ownership/bill of sale (wasn't 100% on this being required for import process, was required for registration though).

I know we also had 20 days to finish the import process after bringing the vehicle into the states.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Should have said "needs." But, I pool "needs" in with my "requirements." "Wants" are different, though they should be in the "requirements" list, but lower down the priorities list than "needs."

How are you expecting the vehicle to be used? Regular use? Short commutes or long? Road conditions?

I suppose you could also consider how many people would be riding around in the vehicle. Kids (if not now, maybe later)? Dogs? (my Golfs work great for the rare times our dog goes out on the road with us- a larger dog; just fold down the seats).

LOTS of things to consider such that end-selection meets your needs. Fluff stuff is, well, fluff stuff; lots can be added: but if you don't meet the fundamental requirements/functional needs then it might as well be an art object.
 

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
Should have said "needs." But, I pool "needs" in with my "requirements." "Wants" are different, though they should be in the "requirements" list, but lower down the priorities list than "needs."

How are you expecting the vehicle to be used? Regular use? Short commutes or long? Road conditions?

I suppose you could also consider how many people would be riding around in the vehicle. Kids (if not now, maybe later)? Dogs? (my Golfs work great for the rare times our dog goes out on the road with us- a larger dog; just fold down the seats).

LOTS of things to consider such that end-selection meets your needs. Fluff stuff is, well, fluff stuff; lots can be added: but if you don't meet the fundamental requirements/functional needs then it might as well be an art object.
gas Mileage is definitely a concern, and one that originally prompted me to look at TDIs.

We're buying long term, and given I'm graduating within a year we're not sure if were staying where we are. A lot of the jobs my fiance has been applying to are 30-40+ miles away, roughly a 40-1.5 hour commute one way depending on traffic. One of the reasons we were looking at the Sonata and Optima was the driver seats were super, duper comfortable. We also liked the Jetta and '15 golf we sat in for the same reason. We want something that maybe 5 years from now, when in a better financial position, we'll still be fine with. I enjoy driving, and having a fun-ish car like a golf (at least I found it fun, compared to our 20 year old accord) will go a long way in placating any kind of car jealousy I may get in the future. Before our accord, I drove a 89' bmw 325 IS for almost a decade. Not a vigorously fast car, but it was still fun to drive.

Don't plan on having any kids in the 10 year time frame, and by don't plan I mean we're not. Hope to get animal(s) in that time frame though, so that is something to consider that I hadn't thought about.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
If I knew I was going to possibly make a big jump/change within a year's time I think that I'd hold off on making any big decisions that might significantly alter your vehicle requirements. I don't like to have to be making the same torturous (I'm also prone to analysis-paralysis) decisions with any frequency.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
I'll also add that I've never bought a new car. Closest I came was a four-year-old one (nicely depreciated from about $38k new to about $17k used). I think I've paid less than $20k for FIVE MKIV TDIs that are currently in the family.

If you land in a cooler climate and with a diesel I'd strongly encourage heated seats! (just recently retrofitting two of my cars with them)
 

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
If I knew I was going to possibly make a big jump/change within a year's time I think that I'd hold off on making any big decisions that might significantly alter your vehicle requirements. I don't like to have to be making the same torturous (I'm also prone to analysis-paralysis) decisions with any frequency.
That's a good point, one we have considered. Anything that happens job wise will still be at least regional (move wise) so within WA, and likely in the i5 corridor (olympia->seattle area). The only major consideration I could think of vehicle wise would be needing something offroad or rough-terrain capable like a truck. Work I'd be doing could potentially need something like that, but it'd be work provided in those cases.

also re: heated seats, they're definitely nice to have. Especially with slower-heating diesels I imagine quite nice.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
TLDR: tdi's are kewl, get one, be member,
 

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
I guess my main question revolves around my questions on salvage and rebuilding VWs, at this point.
 

maxmoo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Location
Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
If you need to hire someone and do not do all your own repairs and maintenance I would stay away from salvage vehicles or wrecks...at $100 or so an hour unexpected surprises can become very costly quickly.
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
If finances are tight I'd recommend against taking on more debt. How much cash do you have for a car purchase? Take that amount, subtract $1,500 for repairs, and that's your TDI budget. Look for the best ALH MKIV TDI you can find. Beetles are usually priced better than others. Manual transmission only. Use the $1,500 for catch-up maintenance and repairs. Then you have an economical, reliable car, debt free. Much better strategy.
 

Lightflyer1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Location
Round Rock, Texas
TDI
2015 Beetle tdi dsg
As you are just coming out of some kind of financial trouble, I sure wouldn't be jumping back into debt again. As IBW said find any decent car for cash and motor on. I also wouldn't be going the salvage route either unless you are competent to do all the work needed, and maybe not even then. In the end it is just a way to get from A to B. Think needs instead of wants right now. A decent used car will save you money in many ways. Just liability insurance is much, much cheaper. Dings don't bother you as much. No one wants to steal an older car. Find one with with a non interference engine and the TB is much easier. It doesn't have to be a tdi or VW either. Find something common and domestic if possible. You will thank me 4 to 8 years from now when you haven't been paying someone else to use the car.
 
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jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Hi all. A few months ago my fiance got into a wreck in our old accord. It was totald by our insurance company. They gave us a very generous settlement, but took possession of the vehicle as part of it. We've been vehicleless since, but finally have our finance stuff in order and can purchase a vehicle.

Since then, I've spent probably way, way too much time and energy trying to decide on what vehicle to replace it with. I have a bit of an issue with analysis-paralysis, especially when it comes to purchases (the more expensive, the worse it is). This is the most expensive purchase I've made as an adult, our budget is roughly 14,000 with some wiggle room. Our financed amount is 10,000. This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to buying a vehicle though, I grew up going with my dad when he'd buy/sell cars which he did fairly regularly being a retired mechanic. I've helped past employers, friends, etc find and buy cars. I enjoy doing it to an extent.

However when it comes to myself and my fiance, It's been pretty bad. Though I attribute a lot of it to our financing situation only being resolved in the last week.

In anycase, I've gone from originally focusing pretty heavily on getting a TDI Beetle that I could flip through the buyback (was just a thought, a few months ago when I was researching. Didn't know about the settlement till then), Buick Regal/Verano, to a Kia Optima (12-13) SX/L Turbo, buying from Canada since it's hella cheaper up there, to Hyundai Sonata, to finding out we can't buy a canadian vehicle with our loan, to looking at TDIs again since they seem to be everywhere. To looking at Canadian cars again because our financing situation is resolved! All the while sometimes toying with the idea of buying a salvage auction vehicle.

Well, since our financing situation allows it, I've been more seriously looking at salvage vehicles. There are quite a few auction lots near me (PNW) which puts me in a fairly good position to purchase something from Copart or IAIA or whatever. I have no idea how to refurbish one myself, and would likely pay a shop to do it. I just want to know if anyone has experience with buying and refurbishing cars in general, at this point. What to look for when buying, what to write off completely, what to look for in a repair shop, how long it takes from lot -> fixed car, etc.

Getting a rebuilt title in WA is fairly straight forward, you need the title and an appointment to have a state trooper do an inspection. It doesn't cover any structural issues, just state/federal laws for lighting, exhausts, etc.

Thats not to say I want to get a piece of crap through inspection, this is something my fiance and I would be driving hopefully for 10+ years like our accord.

I've been looking at TDIs because I've found quite a few 15 TDI golfs with decent mileage, in or close to our price range. Especially after factoring in the secondary restitution check from the other modification.

Drove a few recently, including an unmodified '10 TDI Jetta we found the Monday after black Friday, we were pretty ecstatic because with the restitution + modification on it the car would only end up costing us ~8k instead of 14k which is nice when you're fairly poor (single income while I'm in school). In anycase, I liked the car. It accelerated nice, the engine was quiet, the interior was good (though the backseats weren't very comfortable), everything was in great shape. Some guy in HW bought it out from under us though while we were signing papers. Put 80% down over the phone. Guess he may have been a flipper?

After researching more thuroughly it seemed like the Jetta we had found then was basically a needle in a haystack, especially for it being local (and just down the road). I've since found unmodified TDIs but they've been all over the US, and really only a small handful that were truly unmodified and not just reporting that way.

This has gotten a bit away from me, as I was saying with salvage cars, finding an unmodified one (or modified for the 15 year ones) is a lot easier, though it's not a requirement of what we're doing. We're not looking to flip stuff, it just presents an opportunity for a way for us to get a car that would normally be quite outside of our budget, well within it. It's hard to pass up, and is a similar situation to us looking at CA cars. Like the Optima SX's being ~11.5-13k USD In CA, versus same mile/year being 19-23k here.

The whole time of course in the back of my head I've had a voice telling me that we don't deserve to get a nice car, that we should just get something basic within our budget and be happy about for it. I can't really reconcile that with my logic/thinking brain though. "Why would we settle for something worse in every way when we can get something quite good potentially cheaper?" Is always my response. I guess it's just some kind societal conditioning about being poor and having nice things being incompatible.

Huh, this is a very long post. Sorry about the live-journal entry here.

I guess the tl;dr is this: Is buying an auction salvage to refurb for personal use, a bad idea? Does anyone here buy/refurbish salvage cars? What should we look out for? Is getting the restitution/modification on a rebuilt car difficult?
Should we just try to get a clean '15, and take that restitution for part two?
Should we try to find an unmodified clean TDI?
Is buying a Canadian TDI a bad idea?

Thanks for reading. if you made it this far hats off. Also to any moderation who may read this: Apologies if this is the wrong forum, I realize it is a long post but since my question(s) aren't super specific I wasn't positive where to put it!

I want to personally thank you for using punctuation and breaking up the thoughts into paragraphs. To read posts that are some 4 to 5 run on sentences without punctuation, that is worse than reading a long soliloquy.

That is all.
 

dweisel

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
Wheeling, West Virginia
TDI
dweisel isn't diesel anymore!
I guess my main question revolves around my questions on salvage and rebuilding VWs, at this point.
One thing to consider when looking at salvage vehicles is that the damage is usually more than meets the eye. Which unless you have the time and money. It may take more of both to get the vehicle back into condition.
 

jerrymander

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Location
ur mum
TDI
f
Is buying an auction salvage to refurb for personal use, a bad idea?
Yes. Unless you are an ASE technician or equivalent. You will bite off much more than you can chew. The #1 indicator used car buyers look for is evidence of accident damage. Since these cars are rebuilt, they must have been in accidencts.
Should we just try to get a clean '15, and take that restitution for part two?
Yes.
Should we try to find an unmodified clean TDI?
Yes.......
Is buying a Canadian TDI a bad idea?
Yes.

These last three questions kind of suck. I would look for a pre-2006 TDI personally. A clean 2015 is probably your best bet, though.
 

migbro

Veteran Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Location
Lincoln, Mass.
TDI
2003 Golf GL
I guess my main question revolves around my questions on salvage and rebuilding VWs, at this point.
Why? Seriously, with your limited budget and low risk tolerance, why?

You need reliable transportation. Find a good Toyota or Honda on Craig's List. Focus on the seller as much as the car. Buy only from someone who will meet you in his driveway in an upscale town.
 

PeterV

TDIClub Enthusiast, HO5G Doyen & Zen Master
Joined
Aug 17, 2000
Location
So, NH.
TDI
2000 Jetta 5 sp.
Older TDIs take a lot of work and resources. You might be better served with a gas car. Find reliable transportation first and then later find one you might be able to play with.

You might get some popcorn a beverage and do a lot of reading here.Volumes of opinions and ideas abound. they all have a price.
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
I would not finance a vehicle if you can help it. More so with one income and an uncertain future on what things hold for you and where. I take the Dave Ramsey approach. If you can. Work on a vehicle and you must be getting by without any vehicle then put your monthly payments on what you would pay for financing now and just do that as long as you can. Rent a car for the long trip if needed. That way you can pay cash outright. Sure I financed one car and it was my 04 golf. Wish I didn't as I hated that weighing on my. I have several vehicles now for spares as they break which all vehicles do for one reason or another. Vehicles are never an investment but a neccisary evil.

Good luck. I strongly advise looking into Dave Ramsey. Drive a car that requires a name. A backup cam can be bought for 100 at Menards so don't let that add thousands to this.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

twodunk

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Location
WA
TDI
Want to own one!
Thanks for all the replies guys. I've stopped looking at salvage vehicles (other than ones professionally redone already), and am seriously considering non-tdi's again. Though I still think a '15 TDI with the second emissions fix restitution is a pretty good contender for a vehicle in our range. I've seen quite a few Golfs under 50k miles for ~12.5-13.5. Though there are plenty of Hyundai's under that for sure.

Our financial situation isn't as bad as I made it sound, It's just that we have set ourselves a strict budget for the vehicle, and I'm trying to make the most of it. Our financing is covering 10,000 (or less, depending), at a very good rate. The rest is COH down.

I'm still looking at unmodified TDIs, mostly though at this point to just receive the restitution money if possible (on '10-'14s), as getting a car with a very good powertrain warranty for 6-9k total is a sweet deal to us.

Otherwise we're looking at 12-15 Sonatas, Optimas, Accords (though if we were to get another accord, I'd really prefer the v6), Buick Regal/Veranos seriously again. Or at least I am.

I'd actually found a handful of unmodified VWs, a couple that were very good deals, but in every case it had sold just hours earlier. It's difficult not to get demotivated. I have to imagine professional flippers have invested in some software development to scrape websales VINs for unmodified vehicles. We're not trying to flip anything for profit (directly), just to take advantage of the return program to soften the blow to our checkbook.


Anyway, thanks for all the advice. I'm reading the forum(s) pretty thoroughly every day now in general. Trying to take everyones advice to heart.
 

Rrusse11

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Location
PA Deutsch Country
TDI
2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
If finances are tight I'd recommend against taking on more debt. How much cash do you have for a car purchase? Take that amount, subtract $1,500 for repairs, and that's your TDI budget. Look for the best ALH MKIV TDI you can find. Beetles are usually priced better than others. Manual transmission only. Use the $1,500 for catch-up maintenance and repairs. Then you have an economical, reliable car, debt free. Much better strategy.
Do the above! Only I would say set aside $2k. Sure, the newer cars are "nicer", but if you really plan on keeping it for 10yrs, stay away from "new and improved" technology, ie. a LOT of electronics. Talk to mechanics who work on them. Any make or model, they all suffer from too many sensors, too much software, and waaay too much emissions equipment. Simpler is cheaper to maintain and buy
parts for, and with the help of the folks on this forum, you can do a lot of the simpler stuff yourself. KISS principle.

I had a MkVI, 2010, when it got totalled I took the money and bought an "02. Yes, I've put money in to it, but now I've got one
of the most reliable vehicles on the road with all the whistles and bells I want. Goes like hell and gets 40mpg. Not that I'm advocating
you do what I've done in terms of mods, but for what you're considering, I wholeheartedly concur with IBW that in the long run,
you'll be much better off.

My $.02
 

indysoto

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2004
Location
Eugene, OR
While some salvage vehicles are ok(if you know what happened/just cosmetic), alot are unsafe. Who knows if they are a slight fender bender away from exploding an airbag merging your cell phone or stainless coffee cup with you eye socket. If you are patient you will find a clean tdi in the PNW for cheap, mkiv's will last forever and are rather simple just take it to a guru to get checked out pay the 60$ fee bam put the rest of the money away.
 

kbaisley

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2002
Location
Midwest
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI 5spd
If you are mechanically inclined, you can get a fantastic deal from the auctions. If you are not, you can get stung. It is a gamble, but if you use experience and some common sense, you can come out with a decent deal. It doesn't take much to total out a car. It varies by state, you can look it up on the internet. What you need to factor at the auctions, are the fees. They typically tack on a chunk of change.

The most common damage tends to be front end damage cars. When I look at those, I want something that had a squared up hit and above the frame rails. When you get something from the side or an angle, you can sway the frame rails. I also look for a light hit. When you factor in OEM parts and a retail body shop rates, it doesn't take much to total out a car. Toss in a airbag and its over- totaled.

Personally, I try to get cars that have "Bolt on" repairs. I do not want to get into R&R a quarter panel or worse. You should also check the car's history. There are unscrupulous folks who will flip or get rid of their mistake by polishing up a turd of a car. There is a lot to be said from getting the history and by seeing the car in person prior to the auction.

You also need to factor in the cost to get a rebuilt title. Every state varies, some worse than others. Then, you need to factor that there will be very little resale value in the vehicle. If you keep your cars forever, its a great way to go. If you plan on flipping in a few years, its tough to sell a stained title car.

Also, watch for the glut of flood cars. I have built a few that have had minor flooding. States very, in this particular state, if water breaches the floor sill, its title is branded a flood and the insurance company will total. Flood cars can be restored if caught in time and non salt water. Plan on replacing every electronic that has touched water..period. All connectors will need to be inspected and cleaned or repaired. Carpet - upholstery, if caught in time, can typically be saved. Ozone the exposed car interior. Flood cars make great body parts cars to fix your collision car.

The above work implies a lot of risk in both hours and material costs. You need to have a smoking deal on a car at the auction and a bit of a heart for the risk and passion of rebuilding something, to make it worthwhile. You take a risk on buying a regular used car as well. Go into what ever you are doing with eye wide open and research performed ahead of time, risk planned for and you will be fine.
 
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johnboy00

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2000
Location
Bridgewater,Ma.,USA
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon, 2004 Jetta, 2003 Jetta wagon
Get a 15-17 Jetta 1.4T. You can get 30 mpg/city and 40 mpg/highway. Some can be had for under $10K and new ones are as low as $15k.
 
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