DSG Fill Method question

gmcjetpilot · Nov 21, 2015

big_onion said:
I'll be attempting this this week and have been totally stressing over it. Thanks for this post.

TIP: Measuring Oil Temp with VCDS
I found after three DSG oil changes, when I measure temperature after
starting car to burp the oil, the oil is already at the correct temp, under
the following conditions:

-Engine and transmission before job were fully heated up to full operating temps (by driving it)
-Filling it with fresh fluid that was not cold, slightly warm, but it does not have to hot.
-Working in garage that is at comfortable in shirt sleeves, typical of summer temps.
-You work fairly quickly, from engine shut down at start job, to ready to burp oil, about one hour or so.
-Once you start the car, run through the gear selections and oil starts to burp at slow rate, the oil is plenty warm enough.

hotpocketdeath · Nov 21, 2015

gmcjetpilot said:
You are faster then everyone, doing everything. That is what she said....
OK do it your way. Why follow the instructions, you are too smart for that speedy IFRCFI.

According to MyTurboDiesel...
"Because the housing hole is small, it will take at least 40 minutes to add 4.5L..."

I don't have a problem with it, just saying the bottom fill tool is cheap to buy (aftermarket)
or make or even borrow; It really does not matter. It is preference. I like to pull the filter,
reinstall new one, put the battery back... and get the job done.

PS I have CFI-Inst-ME... and +2K dual given, as well as ATP. Cheers

Yeah, that "Myturbodiesel" statement is wrong. I just did my fluid change not but a few weeks back and I use the top fill method. Adding a full 5litres of fluid from the top took me around 10, maybe 15 minutes, without the need to warm it up.

What I have found using the walmart funnel is if there is air trapped in it, it will slow down the process considerably. If you pinch and release the tube a few times to force out the air, it flows much faster.

gmcjetpilot · Nov 21, 2015

30Bones said:
I already ordered the fluids and skipped on the fill funnel/tool. Seems like it's wasteful to me is all. I have nothing but time, so that's not a huge bother to me. I will likely be brewing beer in the empty stall next to car anyway, that's 4-5 hours as it is.

That is what people say, may be you waste 0.3L. What are you
going to do with 0.3L of fluid in the next 40,000 miles? You have to
buy 5L anyway. The argument it saves money is not really valid. I
suppose if you did 3 or 4 DSG oil changes a week, you might save
a liter. However if you did that many DSG services, you would not
monkey around with top fill and measure, you would force it up it
up from the bottom and burp; it easy and faster I find.

You are good, top fill and measure it. That should be close enough.

Here are some links if you did not get them already:
(this discusses all methods)
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/d...cement-service-vw-and-audi-stronic-oil-flush/

You have the option to top (over fill) and then burp.

Make sure you use a new crush washer and torque wrench for the
metal plug (45 N-M/33 Ft-Lb). The plastic "stand-pipe" just needs
to be snug. Don't strip that. Oil filter housing is plastic and should
also be torqued (20 N-M/14.6 Ft-Lb). My dial torque wrench reads
both.

30Bones · Dec 4, 2015

Some of you really try to scare others from not doing it the factory advised way.

Got home tonight at 4, drained all fluids (hate that damn belly pan!!), popped off the filters and changed the fuel and cabin. Went inside and fed the kids, chit chatter. Went back outside, filled with oil, started on the top fill DSG while rotating the tires. Adding a liter at a time. All in all I was completed by 6 with some time spent with family.

Even went out and drove it and nothing exploded. Thankfully all of the bus loads of nuns were off the roadways. ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

big_onion · Dec 6, 2015

IFRCFI said:
Twice on the 2010 I had.
Remove battery, and old filter. Remove drain plug and snorkel. Drain. Snorkel and drain plug back in. 4.6L in via the filter housing. New filter in. Torque everything to spec.
This amount has been confirmed over and over again. No need to measure what comes out. What if it was low?
Seriously, much angst over something simple.

big_onion said:

I'll be attempting this this week and have been totally stressing over it. Thanks for this post.

Click to expand...

Just wanted to update briefly. I actually had a hell of a time figuring out how to get the car on jack stands, especially after my floor jack broke right when I started. What I ended up doing was using the scissor jack that came with the car and put a jack stand under (I think) the control arm bushing (it was a recommended spot on one of the guides here, I might be calling it the wrong thing). While up, I took off the bottom cover and loosened the drain plug. I dropped the car back on all four wheels (my driveway is quite level) and was able to reach the plug from the front. Took the inner plastic plug out, let it drain, replaced the plugs, then top filled with 4.6 L. Put it all back together, then jacked it up again to put the bottom cover back on.

Already put 1k miles on and it's driving like a dream. Thanks IFRCFI.

I'm wondering, though: I was about 24k late on this (was done around 80k, I bought it with 100k, did this change around 144k). Should I maybe do it again sooner (20k?) to compensate? I know the trans holds more than 4.6L so the service is more for diluting than anything, so I'm wondering if I should advance the schedule to make up for putting it off so long.

gmcjetpilot · Dec 6, 2015

big_onion said:
What I ended up doing was using the scissor jack that came with the car and put a jack stand under (I think) the control arm bushing (it was a recommended spot on one of the guides here, I might be calling it the wrong thing).

I recommend no one ever use that jack unless it is an emergency.... just saying that is an abomination. I have a true scissor jack I carry, not that cantilever death device it comes with... Feel free to disagree....

http://disney-pal.com/DisneyHollywoodStudios/images/great_movie_ride_fun05_large.jpg

30Bones · Dec 7, 2015

big_onion said:
Just wanted to update briefly. I actually had a hell of a time figuring out how to get the car on jack stands, especially after my floor jack broke right when I started. What I ended up doing was using the scissor jack that came with the car and put a jack stand under (I think) the control arm bushing (it was a recommended spot on one of the guides here, I might be calling it the wrong thing). While up, I took off the bottom cover and loosened the drain plug. I dropped the car back on all four wheels (my driveway is quite level) and was able to reach the plug from the front. Took the inner plastic plug out, let it drain, replaced the plugs, then top filled with 4.6 L. Put it all back together, then jacked it up again to put the bottom cover back on.

Already put 1k miles on and it's driving like a dream. Thanks IFRCFI.

I'm wondering, though: I was about 24k late on this (was done around 80k, I bought it with 100k, did this change around 144k). Should I maybe do it again sooner (20k?) to compensate? I know the trans holds more than 4.6L so the service is more for diluting than anything, so I'm wondering if I should advance the schedule to make up for putting it off so long.

More importantly, was the timing belt completed yet?

I was shocked how clean the trans fluid was to be honest. It still had a lot of golden color to it. That being said, it's not that hard to do and for the cost of fluid it might make me sleep better at night to change it again sooner. Unsure it will do any good since the current fluids will still be fresh. I'd highly consider getting it back on the 40K schedule to make it easier to remember from here on out.

big_onion · Dec 7, 2015

gmcjetpilot said:
I recommend no one ever use that jack unless it is an emergency.... just saying that is an abomination. I have a true scissor jack I carry, not that cantilever death device it comes with... Feel free to disagree....

http://disney-pal.com/DisneyHollywoodStudios/images/great_movie_ride_fun05_large.jpg

I'm not a fan of it, but I used it to raise the one side, place the jack stand (I used a scrap of wood to push it, didn't get under the car at all) and then got it out of the way. I'm just glad I wasn't under the car when my floor jack failed -- got three pumps in before something snapped.

big_onion · Dec 7, 2015

30Bones said:
More importantly, was the timing belt completed yet?

I was shocked how clean the trans fluid was to be honest. It still had a lot of golden color to it. That being said, it's not that hard to do and for the cost of fluid it might make me sleep better at night to change it again sooner. Unsure it will do any good since the current fluids will still be fresh. I'd highly consider getting it back on the 40K schedule to make it easier to remember from here on out.

Did the timing belt around 140k. I got a good stern talking-to from the intimidating Russian mechanic for waiting that long. When I bought it (at 100k) I should've had them do the job, rather than use pending change to negotiate down $700. Glad it ended up making it okay, but I won't push it again.

And I agree -- getting the DSG back to the 40k schedule would be easier. I put on about 1k per week so 160k will come up fairly soon.

DSG Fill Method question

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