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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 15th, 2017, 20:21   #16
maxmoo
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First thing I would do is check the static timing between the crank and the cam.
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Old December 20th, 2017, 17:52   #17
ben_pcc
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Update! I thought hard about how to proceed, and concluded that an engine with 200+ k miles isn't worth trying too hard to save. So, I half-assed it! I firmly supported the engine from below, peered in to make sure nothing is blatantly pressing against the timing belt/pulleys, and cranked it.

Sounded very normal, except for a light chattering sound which I assume/hope is loose engine mount bolts.

Speaking of which, the mount itself is yielded as shown in the pic in the other post. It's not the culprit though; the lowermost bolt on the engine mount bracket lost its head, while the other two above are loose (and presumably bent). First photo shows the bracket, peeled away.

The timing belt looks pristine, new almost. I cranked it a bit a few times in order to inspect most of it, no missing teeth. So, my theory on the early symptoms is that the loose bracket pushed against the belt cover and possibly belt hard enough to throw things off without actually skipping.

I could be wrong of course, but considering the low cost/effort required in replacing the mount and mount bracket bolts I intend to do that and hope for the best.









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Old December 20th, 2017, 20:35   #18
wonneber
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To check the belt you have to crank the engine with a socket & breaker bar from the center bolt on the crank pulley.
Might have to take some plastic off to access it.
Do NOT crank the engine from the cam pulley or backwards. Mark the belt with a crayon as you go so you know how far you went and when you made a complete revolution.
The valve cover is easy to get off but you need a 5mm allen socket. (iIrc)
You will see the round lifters under the cam.
If there's spider web cracks it's from a valve hitting a piston.
Did your dad have to correct lock tools for the cam when he did the belt?
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Old December 20th, 2017, 21:23   #19
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Properly replace the mounts and while you are there, check to see if the cam is still in time with the crank. If it is, then motor on. If it isn't, then pop the valve cover and inspect the cam followers and the cam.

Actually, inspect the cam either way.
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Old December 21st, 2017, 09:48   #20
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You're fairly close to the timing belt change interval, even if timing is good now, if you have the motor mount bracket off to fix this issue, you might consider doing the timing belt at the same time. This job would involve removing a lot of the same parts.
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Old December 21st, 2017, 10:19   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_pcc View Post
I thought hard about how to proceed, and concluded that an engine with 200+ k miles isn't worth trying too hard to save.

TDI engines have a lots of miles to give. 200K is more like midlife.

Totally worth saving if it's just the motor mounts and not much of anything else. Don't let your dad do the next timing belt.
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Old December 21st, 2017, 12:47   #22
ben_pcc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokila View Post
TDI engines have a lots of miles to give. 200K is more like midlife.
Oh? Nice to know. I'm irked by VW overall reliability, but am impressed with the engines I've dealt with.

So, I wasn't clear at all. I didn't just crank it, I started it and let it run for 30ish seconds. Sounded normal except for faint aforementioned rattling, which again I assume is due to loose mount bolts no longer held down by the sagging engine.

I'll check static timing at least, and though I really, really want to change the belt myself I just don't have the time/energy right now. I'll let you guys know what happens, thanks much for the tips and for the opportunity to share my troubles!
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Old January 13th, 2018, 17:08   #23
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The actual culprit turned out to be the engine mount bracket. Not my picture:



The head on the lower bolt was later found on the ground. The upper left bolt appears to be held in place with some kind of repair, which broke. The upper right bolt was the last thing holding this side of the engine: bent and mostly out.



This bracket buckled and put pressure on the timing belt and pulleys. I'm not sure exactly what was making the knocking sound, but I looked the system over and it still looks really healthy: there's no way a tooth has been skipped (and if it has, there's no way it's come back, so I should in theory observe a severe timing problem if the engine is started).



So, I replace two of the mount bracket bolts, skipping the third one for now because its hole is busted (luckily, there's a fix). I just want to see if the car runs normal, y'know. I replace the mount while I'm at it, and put just 30 ft lb on the bolts so that they don't stretch yet.

It starts right up and sounds quite normal. I carefully peek into the timing belt pulleys kind of expecting them to wobble what with them bearing half the weight of the engine, but they look just fine.

I drive off, and as soon as I try to rev a bit up hill hear a little boom sound and the car loses power. I limp back and it turns out forgot to clamp the boost hose properly: it opened up. Fixed that, went around the block uphill and down, and it sounds/feels fine.

I'll get the timing belt replaced ASAP and ask them to torque the bolts and apply the broken hole fix. That's my story, thanks for listening
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Old January 13th, 2018, 19:34   #24
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Well, from what I see, you have done well, grasshopper. Now don't drive it except to get it fixed. oldpoopie is in Gresham and can take care of you.
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Old January 14th, 2018, 11:02   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_pcc View Post
I drive off, and as soon as I try to rev a bit up hill hear a little boom sound and the car loses power. I limp back and it turns out forgot to clamp the boost hose properly: it opened up. Fixed that, went around the block uphill and down, and it sounds/feels fine.

I'll get the timing belt replaced ASAP and ask them to torque the bolts and apply the broken hole fix. That's my story, thanks for listening
I missed on one of my boost hoses also, it happens.
I glanced through the thread and am not clear if you are over due for the belt change or it was changed recently.
The latest picture did not look like a new belt.
If you are going the do it get a proper belt kit which should include all the rollers, tensioner, water pump, and TTY bolts needed.
Do you have the specialty tools needed for this? Some online stores rent them.
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Old January 14th, 2018, 11:25   #26
ben_pcc
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It's due now and the next drive will be to someone (likely oldpoopie!) who'll fix it. I don't have the tools, time, or love. I'm not suggesting the belt's new by any stretch, just that it doesn't look like failure is imminent. Still, I'm not driving it anywhere but to get it fixed.
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Old January 14th, 2018, 15:55   #27
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OK, I wasn't clear either.
Didn't want you to have another surprise going down the road.
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