No power.

Maddawg

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Location
Strathroy Ontario Canada
TDI
Jetta 2003.500.000 kms. 2001JETTA TDI.
Bought a 2003 Jetta TDI. Has 450000 kms on it. Fantastic fuel economy. Never owned a desiel or turbo. This thing is a dog. No power in first few gears. I don't think the turbo is working properly or at all. Don't even know exactly where it is. Intake or exhaust manifold. Will look for a schematic on the turbo and moving parts to either lube or check for leaks etc. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Maybe just stuck or something simple. It's a 1.9 l . Runs good when you get going but no passing power.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
OK. Welcome to the "Club!"

See signature for help.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Just report back with info and questions and there's nothing that the folks here can't manage to figure out.
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
Congratulations on joining the TDI Cult. First things first. It's spelled diesel.:D Next be sure you don't fill up with gasoline. Lastly, TDI stands for Turbo Direct Injection.

The rest is all details. Lots of information here about low power so you can spend alot of time researching turbo vanes and actuators and vacuum lines and N75 valves
 

Maddawg

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Location
Strathroy Ontario Canada
TDI
Jetta 2003.500.000 kms. 2001JETTA TDI.
Car goes into limp mode now and then. Drove over a week with no cel and noticable improvement in power. Bought a vacuum pump to look for hose leaks . pulled off maf and no difference in power. If it has a leak i would think it would always be in limp mode.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
many things can cuase limp mode or just no power. No boost will rpdue LOTS of smoke compared to normal driving with NO power, usualy a boot comes off, this is rare in stock form. There are vacuum lines and boost lines, check them all. on some other models (not sure about yours) the ECU has a boost line going into it and you have to take it apart to change the line, you cant see it untill you open the ECU. There is an n75 valve that can get gummed up or stock, it can be cleaned but some times you just need a new one.
Things like fuel filters, air filters, and other items cant trigger a CEL or limp mode but will rob power. Look into your intake manifold. It might be completely clogged with crap from the EGR and CCV mixing the two most nasty elements of a diesel together. I have seen intakes so clogged that you could not even pass a large marble through.

In a nut shell you need to go over the basics and most common things. Vac (boost lines) n75 valve, boost leaks are most common

Next on your list is the air intake system POST turbo and check your EGR system, you may want to delete it and get a light tune to clear the CEL.
Then go over your fuel system. Highly recommend you swap to a ditzel mod or nictane fuel filter system
the only other things that can harm power and fuel econ are worn out parts. Your getting up there in mileage so its time to start looking into saving up a bit to pull your head, and do some basic work in the future, not now, but plan on it if you want to get past 300K miles (valve guides, seals, cleaning and light port/polish)

You will find that a tdi with high (for other cars) mileage will start to get a bit high in maintenance. I have a budget of $65.00 a month put away for repairs on the car other than tires and glass or other emergency repairs. this is just the nature of running a diesel into its "Prime" If cared for, you can easily put down an extra 50% more power and still get to 400K miles if you are into them. I suggest if your looking for economical and practicality of a car, to sell the car some time around 300K and go with something with less miles because most of us here that go down the road of keeping it alive past 300K (because we want to work on them) *RACECAR* put more than what they are worth into them. Its all about what you want from the car. A daily? or tinkering? Fun? race? autocross? What?
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Sell the car at 300k? You don't really know these TDI's if you're mentioning that, they are not the same as gas cars.

I started modding mine after 300K and it's doing very well at 451K today. Most of the ones I work on are well above 300K (modded and stock) and his only has 280K on it already.

His ALH has no hose inside the ECU and the whole cars runs off vacuum, unlike ours, which use a mix of pressure and vacuum.

The Dietzl mod is highly recommended AGAINST for someone living in such a northern latitude since there is a high probability of the fuel gelling without the thermostatic T. I've rescued too many TDIs with gelled fuel who bypassed it because they thought it was the cause of air leaks in their fuel system, or a restriction, or just unnecessary. I would not do it living here and I'm much further south.

Their turbos have a tendency to coke up the vanes, which is also where I would look. They're easy to diagnose and the issue could also be a leaking (rusty) actuator off the turbo. I'd also check the EGR and ASV system.

But good luck with your diagnosis and let us know what you find.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
You will find that a tdi with high (for other cars) mileage will start to get a bit high in maintenance. I have a budget of $65.00 a month put away for repairs on the car other than tires and glass or other emergency repairs. this is just the nature of running a diesel into its "Prime" If cared for, you can easily put down an extra 50% more power and still get to 400K miles if you are into them. I suggest if your looking for economical and practicality of a car, to sell the car some time around 300K and go with something with less miles because most of us here that go down the road of keeping it alive past 300K (because we want to work on them) *RACECAR* put more than what they are worth into them. Its all about what you want from the car. A daily? or tinkering? Fun? race? autocross? What?
What are "emergency repairs?" If I ignored proper care for something and then there became a problem as a result would that be classified as a case for "emergency repair?" Such situations should be very rare IF one performs regularly scheduled maintenance.

There's also general wearing out of things. "Consumables," such as brakes. Brakes on a 300k mile car don't wear out any faster than they do on a brand new care (assuming proper maintenance).

Deferred maintenance. When you buy a used car that's what you tend to get, a vehicle with deferred maintenance: sometimes you can get a used vehicle that's been taken care up in total. This has little to do with the capacity for longevity if such issues are properly resolved (IF resolvable).

One should not confuse "maintenance" with "repairs." And, sometimes "repairs" are the result of improper/lack of maintenance.

Most everything is anecdotal in nature, very little hard data to really go by. BUT, some people have documented full operating costs, and one such person has been doing so for nearly 15 years; his work can be found here (awesome recording/reporting!):

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=400753
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Is that what trolling is?
Maddawg- Once you get familiar with how these work (they are simple, but different) you'll have an easier time with diagnosis.
You got yourself one of the more desirable models (5 spd. right?) but sounds like it needs a good going over.
One easy thing you might start with is the vacuum tubes. If they're clothe covered and original, just replace them all along with the fuel returns from the injectors.
Soon you'll likely be wanting to get some data feedback, keep a lookout for someone with a VCDS device you can use.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Most everything is anecdotal in nature, very little hard data to really go by. BUT, some people have documented full operating costs, and one such person has been doing so for nearly 15 years; his work can be found here (awesome recording/reporting!):

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=400753
I do this will each of my cars and always have. My sedan has 10 years of data on it, with every fillup, oil change, maintenance or repair of any kind, and even side notes, like vibrations or noises popping up. It's why people not only don't mind buying an ex-TDI of mine, because they know what I know and what it is, they seek me out and ask if any of my cars might become available.

I owned a B4V for a few years and sold it to W386. It had the maintenance history going back 264,000 miles, sporadic before that. Everything I did was labor and little parts, everything the PO did was parts and little labor. In 180,000 miles the PO put over $24,000 into it having dealers and garages do any repairs, some were guesswork and needless, which is why she sold it. She thought it was a money pit. It was and still is a very reliable vehicle or I wouldn't continue to let my dad drive it. But in no case was anything a mystery or a catastrophic failure.

I would jump into either one of my cars and head to Florida tomorrow, no question. Well, once the suspension and timing belt are replaced on the wagon, but I've been fighting anaplasmosis, so I'm a little under the weather still. My point is, with care and a little money (I've spent most of mine on upgrades), these cars will be reliable well past most other cars in the junkyard, and still return good power and economy. It's not rocket science or voodoo.

Yes, these are hobbyist cars now, and anyone who thinks otherwise is fooling themselves. They can be cheap with good parts and simple maintenance or they can be expensive money pits to those less knowledgeable. There is no better mechanic than the owner of the vehicle, because no garage will take the time and spend the extra care on it like an owner. That's not a slam on the many reputable mechanics on this board, on the contrary, I've seen them take care of an owners' car like it was their own. But even they have limits, and those limits are the extent of the owners' wallet. It's not their fault since they are in business and their time, facilities, and knowledge are not free. But an owner can take the time and do the little things that can matter in the long run: never-seize or loctite (or nothing), better or mediocre parts, chase threads, wash components as they go, and touch up the little things that the garage who charges money could not do without bankrupting the client.

The ALH is considered to be the best TDI built, able to receive upgrades easier, produce good power for little money, and go further than most any other TDI, although the last statement is constantly being challenged by other models. Case in point is Nutsnbolts, who has 575,000 miles on his ALH and is still going strong. Many others are over 500K as well, as evidenced in the 500K Club.
 

FletchMan

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Black Hills
TDI
2006 Jetta, 99.5 Jetta...previously owned 2000 Beetle and 1990 Jetta 1.6
I believe it's been mentioned but the clogged intake is really easy to check out and is often a big culprit in being gutless. You can take one clamp loose and look down the EGR. A dirty EGR often means a clogged intake.

Personally, I'd start there.
 

Maddawg

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Location
Strathroy Ontario Canada
TDI
Jetta 2003.500.000 kms. 2001JETTA TDI.
Tnx again guys. Dont know if it alh or what. Only have time on weekends to t/s but will try looking at sticky acuators,clogged intakes and what not.it is cold as ice up here in winter but my cousin had one and no issues. Tnx again
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
smooth short valve cover, AHU
Tall more square shaped valve cover, ALH
 

Maddawg

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Location
Strathroy Ontario Canada
TDI
Jetta 2003.500.000 kms. 2001JETTA TDI.
Thanks guys. Will do with clogging issues. Bought a vac gauge also to test leaks. No light on now but seems gutless . Leaks I don't think are intermittent or solidnoids.
 

Maddawg

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Location
Strathroy Ontario Canada
TDI
Jetta 2003.500.000 kms. 2001JETTA TDI.
Have a antilock light on car that I can't seem to get rid of. My brother bought a code reader with antilock function that supposed to remove cel for antilock brakes but still can't remove it. Has been on since bought car 4 months ago. Brakes seem to work fine. Don't really notice the usual pulsing on the brakes when I leave class them up on snow or ice thou. Any ideas ,?. Thanks. And PS. Cold as #### here in southern Ontario and no issues starting up yet .
 

joetdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Location
Midwest
TDI
2-2002 Jettas W/Auto
on some other models (not sure about yours) the ECU has a boost line going into it and you have to take it apart to change the line, you cant see it untill you open the ECU.
Just to make things clear you can skip this step as you will not find this on your car.
 
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