toyota/jeep swap using quicktime+novak....
- Thread starter jimbote
- Start date
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
no, but if you use it in conjunction with the novak adapter (read the title) it does fit the r150 toyota transmission
Was a fordie
Veteran Member
i have the w56 transmisson though...
Was a fordie
Veteran Member
i guess if it made things easier i could take out the w56 and sell it and then buy a rebuilt r150f so i can keep the 4x4 and put that in...
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cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
ACME adapter tolerances
jaysonspaceman is finding the same thing, jimbote, and as my truck clutch (or something) just crapped out last week, I am bummed to be seeing all of this. I think I can somewhat confident that the ACME adapter misalignment on the 1Z, however slight, has compromised the clutch. Toward the last few days that the clutch engaged, the unevenness of its engagement was obvious. I can probably also assume the oilite bushing is shot and needs to be replaced given the relative flopping around going on in there...
Chkn asked if, given the 3/8" adapter width, the flywheel gets the same spacer. Does it?
Not psyched to be returning the ACME plate to duty when this kind of thing seems inevitable after ~ 13k miles. Sounds like there's value in paying someone for a much more precise adapter.
Another question - anyone have to lengthen the transmission input shaft to allow the clutch release bearing full travel?
jaysonspaceman is finding the same thing, jimbote, and as my truck clutch (or something) just crapped out last week, I am bummed to be seeing all of this. I think I can somewhat confident that the ACME adapter misalignment on the 1Z, however slight, has compromised the clutch. Toward the last few days that the clutch engaged, the unevenness of its engagement was obvious. I can probably also assume the oilite bushing is shot and needs to be replaced given the relative flopping around going on in there...
Chkn asked if, given the 3/8" adapter width, the flywheel gets the same spacer. Does it?
Not psyched to be returning the ACME plate to duty when this kind of thing seems inevitable after ~ 13k miles. Sounds like there's value in paying someone for a much more precise adapter.
Another question - anyone have to lengthen the transmission input shaft to allow the clutch release bearing full travel?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
if you need to borrow my plate alignment jig just say the word and i'll throw it in the truck.... also not sure what you mean about lengthening the input ?... do you mean the release bearing sleeve ? ... shouldn't need to change that from stock length ...
Rockwell
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Location
- Manchester, NH
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
The flywheel does not get a spacer with the ACME kit. The input shaft seems to engage the crankshaft fine, even better once aligned like jimbote discovered. To me it seemed like the release bearing wasn't getting full travel. It didn't seem like the geometry of the clutch fork was correct now that the transmission is sitting further away from the engine due to the thickness of the adapter plate. I used a washer to shim the pivot bolt out a bit to give it a little more 'swing' when the clutch is engaged. My build is still going on so it will be awhile before I can test my theory.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
aw
one thing you have to remember is the flywheel and clutch is in almost the exact same spot in relationship to the transmission, input shaft, and bellhousing as it was with the toyota engine ... it just so happens that the VW flywheel crank flange sticks out about 3/8" farther in relation to the block face than the toyota does, hence a 3/8" adapter plate puts everything back in proper relationship ... if your having disengagement issues make sure you have the correct slave/master combo for the correct ratio .... what trans are you currently running? what bell? what slave? and what clutch ?The flywheel does not get a spacer with the ACME kit. The input shaft seems to engage the crankshaft fine, even better once aligned like jimbote discovered. To me it seemed like the release bearing wasn't getting full travel. It didn't seem like the geometry of the clutch fork was correct now that the transmission is sitting further away from the engine due to the thickness of the adapter plate. I used a washer to shim the pivot bolt out a bit to give it a little more 'swing' when the clutch is engaged. My build is still going on so it will be awhile before I can test my theory.
Rockwell
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Location
- Manchester, NH
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
Thats a good point. Transmission, throwout, slave and master were are all from a '91. Clutch and pressure plate were from Marlin. This was on the 1.6TD I removed, I've upgraded to the CTX-107 for my swap to the AHU. I always had a little play between the slave rod and shift fork which would be taken up as I started to engage the clutch, it would take that first bit of travel before the clutch would even begin to disengage. The shim isn't much, just enough to get the fork to the slave rod (without pre-loading it). Maybe with the new clutch this wouldn't have been an issue, but it seems ok now but wont know for sure until I drive it.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
there should always be a bit of preload on the slave pushrod... the release bearing is always engaged and spinning against the diaphragm in most hydraulic clutch systems, toyota being one of them.... maybe you should adjust your master pushrod a bit ?... the freeplay felt should only be slight and is just the distance the piston has to travel to cover up the bleedback port .... iirc, there should be no mechanical freeplay between the pushrod and the slave piston
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bms707
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2014
- Location
- way way nor cal
- TDI
- '84 yota 4x4 ALH TDI, '03 Jetta wagon(soon to be 6speed)
So what you guys are saying is that the ACME plate isn't properly engineered, and causes premature clutch/pilot bushing wear/failure? So far my ALH swap only has 5k miles, so we'll see how it goes. I haven't had any clutch issues or slipping yet, but then again my engine has no power mods. This really sucks if it's true for every acme plate, i rely on my truck daily for work and cannot afford to shell out a ton more cash for machine work or a new adapter plate. I'm really concerned here guys..
Should i be?
Should i be?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
you should be, saw a destroyed clutch a few days ago due to the misalignment of an acme plateSo what you guys are saying is that the ACME plate isn't properly engineered, and causes premature clutch/pilot bushing wear/failure? So far my ALH swap only has 5k miles, so we'll see how it goes. I haven't had any clutch issues or slipping yet, but then again my engine has no power mods. This really sucks if it's true for every acme plate, i rely on my truck daily for work and cannot afford to shell out a ton more cash for machine work or a new adapter plate. I'm really concerned here guys..
bms707
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2014
- Location
- way way nor cal
- TDI
- '84 yota 4x4 ALH TDI, '03 Jetta wagon(soon to be 6speed)
i did think it was strange there were no alignment dowels on the acme plate. Has anyone contacted acme about this? They're charging for a faulty product I was planning on running my g52 until something lets go, as i have a w56 down in the carport that i'm rebuilding. So i guess at that point i could use your method (jimbote) of re-alignment. Still pretty lame that acme is selling this half-ass product to so many people, most of whom rely on their rig as a DD. Just when i though i had the bugs worked out of this swap..NOPE
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
if you want to borrow my rig it's free to "rent" with a deposit plus shipping to your door .... the acme plate works fine once you work to correct it's character flaw
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
the ghost of a double post ....
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bms707
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2014
- Location
- way way nor cal
- TDI
- '84 yota 4x4 ALH TDI, '03 Jetta wagon(soon to be 6speed)
Alright then, i may take you up on that offer. I like my tab idea because of its simplicity, but you're right about the bell housing twisting and throwing it off.
I'm glad acme does what they do and builds these kits, they should just advertise them as "Some centering may be required".
I'm glad acme does what they do and builds these kits, they should just advertise them as "Some centering may be required".
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Clutch Carnage
~26,000 miles on the swap.
Marlin 1600# "Super Heavy Duty" clutch, ACME adapter, oilite pilot bushing (remarkably intact, but being replaced anyway), G52 front bearing retainer, clutch release/throwout bearing (lost its face), all getting replaced.
Big shoutout to jimbote for his help on this. jaysinspaceman is making me a new one.
~26,000 miles on the swap.
Marlin 1600# "Super Heavy Duty" clutch, ACME adapter, oilite pilot bushing (remarkably intact, but being replaced anyway), G52 front bearing retainer, clutch release/throwout bearing (lost its face), all getting replaced.
Big shoutout to jimbote for his help on this
. jaysinspaceman is making me a new one. 
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evguy1
Vendor
I hate to see this sort of thing.
I had decided to not built a Toyota adapter because ACME already had that covered. After seeing this destruction I'm thinking maybe a better mouse trap is due?
All my adapters use the stock dowel pins on both the TDI and the transmission for a perfect alignment.
After 25 years of selling adapters I have never had a clutch failure.
I have patterns for the 22R series engines, is that going to cover most applications?
I had decided to not built a Toyota adapter because ACME already had that covered. After seeing this destruction I'm thinking maybe a better mouse trap is due?
All my adapters use the stock dowel pins on both the TDI and the transmission for a perfect alignment.
After 25 years of selling adapters I have never had a clutch failure.
I have patterns for the 22R series engines, is that going to cover most applications?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
i believe jaysinspaceman has an accurate toy 22r>tdi plate covered, both Ronnie (cumminsfromthecold) and I have some beta plates on the way... i can tell you though, a good toyota V6 (5vzfe/3vze) plate is needed
evguy1
Vendor
Thanks Jimbote, I dont want to step on any toes. ;>)
I'll look into the V6 Toy.
Thanks
Randy
I'll look into the V6 Toy.
Thanks
Randy
frambach
Well-known member
While my project is still coming down the pike, I have a R150 (2wd V6) Toyota trans I'm adapting to a ALH using an ACME adapter plate (already purchased and mounted - not yet ran).
I would be very interested in a higher quality, more sure fire, plate.
I would be very interested in a higher quality, more sure fire, plate.
89vr6
Veteran Member
Since I have access to a lathe I will be making an acme adapter to Toyota bell-housing alignment tool. The tool will insert into where the oil lite bushing would go, and then you would then align the bell-housing over top of it, tighten it down and insert your dowl pins where they need to go for future alignment and reassembly of the transmission
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
not wanting to discourage you but a gauge type tool that has to perform sub .005" alignment over eight or so inches may only perform an approximation of centering at best... even if you press fit the tool into the the crank i'm afraid it would still not be accurate enough for the job
89vr6
Veteran Member
Why would it not be enough if everything is centered and flush and pressured in there's no reason it should be off? That would be like saying that the transmission input shaft could be off? As long as everything's is created on a lathe and it is formed from one solid piece of aluminum or other material possibly a poly
Was a fordie
Veteran Member
the the 22re>vw tdi plate from acme is fine? or is the v6 the one people complain about ?
just curious.. i got a 94 yota pickup with a 2.4 L 22re and w56 tranny + 4wd.
just curious.. i got a 94 yota pickup with a 2.4 L 22re and w56 tranny + 4wd.
Was a fordie
Veteran Member
link or where can i buy this bushing?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
it's not the same thing as saying the input shaft would be off ...just a tiny imperceptible movement or misplacement of your gauge at the crank end can equal many thousandths of movement at the bell housing end thus skewing the accuracy ... do it how you like, but it wont be as accurate as using the dial indicator method...although you might get lucky with your gauge sometimes, it won't be repeatably accurate ...the dial indicator method is not my contrivance but is an accepted method industry wide for centering the bellhousing
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
i'm sure the V6 is inaccurate also because it does not use dowel pins for locating the plate or the bell housing, so it needs to be indicated, locked down and dowel pinned
go to mcmaster carr, look up oilite bushings and buy one with the correct OD and one with the correct ID ... make sure the inner bushing has the correct OD to slip inside the outer bushing... when they arrive push em together with a vice ... it's what i'm currently running in my truck now and works great... this method was suggested on here by another member (can't remember who) but kudos anyway !
here ya go !! https://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4337429&postcount=20
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
I have a suggestion 89, rather than locating your gauge on the inside of the pilot area why not machine it to locate snugly around the boss of the crank and then bolt it tightly to the the flange of the crank....this would eliminate any wobble that could occur from inserting it into the pilot area of the crank, then you can test it by bolting it up, sticking a dial indicator on the block and then dial indicating the very end of your gauge while turning the motor over with a ratchet...
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