Fuel filter O-rings -- important!

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Got me again

It has been four years since my prior experience with this.
And instinctively I told myself that whatever happened last time is probably not what's happening this time.
For several, several months now, almost every morning my pump has lost prime and I have to pull fuel
( using the mity vac ) through the return path, before it will crank up and start in a cranky, stuttering way.
Later in the day, until the next morning it will start all right ... then on first cold start in the morning, again no prime.
Last week, it finally got worse and I could not leave work in the evening, took almost 1/2 hour to prime it successfully.
During all of this, the battery and starter take a beating.
So I had presumed my IP head seal was the culprit, since the last time I had installed the Viton gasket
( purchased from Dieselgeek ) was 6 years / 120k miles back, and I thought that I've noticed fuel dripping, more recently. ( I also did the middle & top seals 5-1/2 years back, after the original middle seal began leaking. )
It's hard to see clearly because the area under my IP has become embarrassingly messy, eaten-away wire insulation and all.
Last Saturday, I finally disassembled the IP stack and replaced all three seals (again), plus the fuel temperature sensor.
Afterward, to my chagrin the loss of prime actually became a lot worse. I accused myself of roughly handling the head seal, during re-seating of the distributor head ... i.e. you have to tighten the screws oh so gradually and evenly, but maybe I tightened one corner too abruptly, something like that.
( On the good side, my IP is running so nicely now, I think the last positioning of my QA was better than last time, so it runs very happily. Haven't yet tuned IQ using VCDS, and I should check my timing since haven't looked at it in ages. )
Sunday morning, I replaced the fuel filter and the Tee valve O-rings ( but not the valve itself ).
The vehicle started up fine afterward, but I waited until Monday morning's cold start to judge the situation.
Monday morning, a perfect start, and has been perfect for another day after. At this point, no more loss of prime.
My guess : I was losing prime through the return path again. And it's most likely those little doggone o-rings on the thermostatic tee valve. I haven't had them on there for four years, well maybe I did ... that must have been the occasion when I bought an entire new valve. ( I had posted http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2396740&post2396740, and a couple of other entries in that thread at the time. )
Another guess would be fuel dripping from the bottom (exit spigot) of the fuel filter. But that's a little less likely, and after removing the filter I had it sitting full of fuel for a while and didn't see any leakage, so I don't think so.
What I really want to see, and I would buy this aftermarket since I am lazy at this point ...
give us a two-line connector assembly to go between the filter and the IP, which has clear tubing
not only on the incoming path, but on the outgoing (return) path as well.
I have had this general issue, with air getting into the return side, before, and I think it could be spotted (visually) earlier.
My clear portion of the inlet tube doesn't always show obvious air, when there's air at the spill side.
If this is merely causing a dry condition at the injectors, that could make sense but
I still don't really understand how the usual priming (at the pipe from the banjo) is able to improve the situation.
Then again, that basic priming doesn't make it immediately start; it gives the engine a chance of starting, after a few tries.
EDIT: Is it possible that ambient air entering at the tee valve causes more of an issue than air entering the spill path ... or are they effectively the same part of the system ??

Sorry for the rambling post now.
Larry
 
Last edited:

Solamia

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2010
Location
Kansas
TDI
2001 Blue Jetta TDI (380K mi)
It has been four years since my prior experience with this.
And instinctively I told myself that whatever happened last time is probably not what's happening this time.
For several, several months now, almost every morning my pump has lost prime and I have to pull fuel
( using the mity vac ) through the return path, before it will crank up and start in a cranky, stuttering way.
Later in the day, until the next morning it will start all right ... then on first cold start in the morning, again no prime.
Last week, it finally got worse and I could not leave work in the evening, took almost 1/2 hour to prime it successfully.
During all of this, the battery and starter take a beating.
So I had presumed my IP head seal was the culprit, since the last time I had installed the Viton gasket
( purchased from Dieselgeek ) was 6 years / 120k miles back, and I thought that I've noticed fuel dripping, more recently. ( I also did the middle & top seals 5-1/2 years back, after the original middle seal began leaking. )
It's hard to see clearly because the area under my IP has become embarrassingly messy, eaten-away wire insulation and all.
Last Saturday, I finally disassembled the IP stack and replaced all three seals (again), plus the fuel temperature sensor.
Afterward, to my chagrin the loss of prime actually became a lot worse. I accused myself of roughly handling the head seal, during re-seating of the distributor head ... i.e. you have to tighten the screws oh so gradually and evenly, but maybe I tightened one corner too abruptly, something like that.
( On the good side, my IP is running so nicely now, I think the last positioning of my QA was better than last time, so it runs very happily. Haven't yet tuned IQ using VCDS, and I should check my timing since haven't looked at it in ages. )
Sunday morning, I replaced the fuel filter and the Tee valve O-rings ( but not the valve itself ).
The vehicle started up fine afterward, but I waited until Monday morning's cold start to judge the situation.
Monday morning, a perfect start, and has been perfect for another day after. At this point, no more loss of prime.
My guess : I was losing prime through the return path again. And it's most likely those little doggone o-rings on the thermostatic tee valve. I haven't had them on there for four years, well maybe I did ... that must have been the occasion when I bought an entire new valve. ( I had posted http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2396740&post2396740, and a couple of other entries in that thread at the time. )
Another guess would be fuel dripping from the bottom (exit spigot) of the fuel filter. But that's a little less likely, and after removing the filter I had it sitting full of fuel for a while and didn't see any leakage, so I don't think so.
What I really want to see, and I would buy this aftermarket since I am lazy at this point ...
give us a two-line connector assembly to go between the filter and the IP, which has clear tubing
not only on the incoming path, but on the outgoing (return) path as well.
I have had this general issue, with air getting into the return side, before, and I think it could be spotted (visually) earlier.
My clear portion of the inlet tube doesn't always show obvious air, when there's air at the spill side.
If this is merely causing a dry condition at the injectors, that could make sense but
I still don't really understand how the usual priming (at the pipe from the banjo) is able to improve the situation.
Then again, that basic priming doesn't make it immediately start; it gives the engine a chance of starting, after a few tries.
EDIT: Is it possible that ambient air entering at the tee valve causes more of an issue than air entering the spill path ... or are they effectively the same part of the system ??
Sorry for the rambling post now.
Larry[/QUOTE

I'd like to know the answer to your last question as well. And clear lines I'm both directions, from and to filter would be nice. Anyone have suggestions on what could be used? I'm not savvy with hoses and don't want to get wrong material, wrong ID or something too flimsy.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
as far as fuel upgrades or fixes, ditzle mod and uber filter kit from nicktane fixes this oring issue, upgrade to some 3/8 ID HD silicone lines, they last forever.
 

Nevada_TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI
IIRC, the Mark-I's had a fuel filter with just in and out hose barbs; these filters are quite inexpensive and you can bypass the T fitting with a hose butt connector. Same theory as Nictane and a lot less money.
 

Ol'Rattler

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
PNA
TDI
2006 BRM Jetta
Be careful about were you get "O" rings. Just because an "O" ring is the correct size does not mean it is made out of the right material.
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
At the risk of sounding like a moron I have to ask a few questions about fuel delivery. I did a IP rebuild and a Timing Belt kit with pulleys, tensioner and H2O pump...and a fuel filter on my daughter’s 02 Beetle ALH. I Got the car running and driving just fine. Parked it waiting for money for more parts and when I went back to take it to GoodYear for tires, it’s a crank but no start. Owners manual has fuses and such listed for a fuel pump, but those slots have no terminals nor fuses. Does the car have a lift pump? I’m going to replace o-rings on the fuel pump ASAP, but wondering if there’s a pump I need to be worried about. Also, is the cooler looking item on the bottom of the car at the passenger door a fuel cooler? If it’s got some areas of compression (witness marks from a jack), should it be replaced & if so, anybody have a suggestion for a reliable vendor?
Thanks again for all of the help thus far!
Tank
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
No lift pump in the fuel tank of an 02 New Beetle with ALH..

Although this Thread title pertains to the two O-rings on the Thermo T at the fuel filter, I doubt they're the cause of your no start, but you should replace those if you changed the fuel filter.

A re-seal job on the Injection Pump will likely solve the problem.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
IIRC, the NB is an automatic and yes, that is a fuel cooler. Too bad you have run into yet another hapless fool pretending to be a mechanic. They never think or look before jacking the cars. They know everything, after all. :rolleyes:

Anyway, there is no in tank pump for the ALH. Yes, there are locations for such, electrically, but just because injected gassers need them does not mean that VW is going to the bother of designing different fuse blocks and such even though the car doesn't need that slot. I.e. it is a common part and is only populated with what is needed for that model and engine.

It seems to me that if it was running nicely the day before but is no longer cooperating, and nothing else has been done, then it is either out of fuel (unnoticed leak perhaps?) or the pump lost prime due to an air leak, which air leaks into the fuel system are notoriously difficult to find.

I cured a similar problem in my 4-dr by greasing the o-rings with a vaseline style lubricant in the fuel filter and using the smallest screw-type hose clamps on the fuel filter to ensure the hoses were all well sealed. That helped me, but your problem may be a little different. Such as too much air leakage from the injector fuel return lines or maybe the pump head seal is leaking.

Whatever the problem, it will be a bit of sleuthing to find the cause.

Good luck!

PH
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
Andy bees, I just did a complete IP reseal. No leakage remains. Which is why I’m a bit baffled. I just had abdominal surgery, so getting out there and replacing the o-rings will be weeks away. Powder Hound, I just put 5 gallons of fresh Diesel in the tank. Unless there is a blockage in the tank/line/cooler, fuel supply “shouldn’t” be the problem. On the topic of the fuel cooler...do you, or anybody else, have a part number for the cooler and a preferred parts supplier for it? Thanks again for everyone’s help and suggestions. I’ll keep folks abreast of the progress.
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
Replaced the fuel return line from injection rail to top of pump, as well as o-rings on Fuel Filter “Mickey Mouse” fitting I also replaced the feed line from filter to pump along with screw clamps on all connections. Battery had gone dead from sitting (been recovering from abdominal surgery for 6 weeks). The key fob had quit. Is it conceivable that I am experiencing a PATS issue? Can PATS be accessed through VAGCOM? Thanks again!
Tank
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
Replaced the fuel return line from injection rail to top of pump, as well as o-rings on Fuel Filter “Mickey Mouse” fitting I also replaced the feed line from filter to pump along with screw clamps on all connections. Battery had gone dead from sitting (been recovering from abdominal surgery for 6 weeks). The key fob had quit. Is it conceivable that I am experiencing a PATS issue? Can PATS be accessed through VAGCOM? Thanks again!
Tank
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
Eureka! It turns out the no start issue is a simple electrical problem and not related to my fuel pump reseal in any way! Turns out it’s a simple relay (109), and apparently it is a common failure item. It feeds the glow plug controller, tachometer signal...and it controls the fuel shut-off solenoid. If one jumps the solenoid to power it bypasses the electrical circuit to test for failure. I did this and the car burst to life after maybe two revolutions! Very excited to share the good news! Amazon Prime will be delivering the new relay (109) today or tomorrow and the proper repair will be completed shortly thereafter! Thanks to all for the suggestions, advice and encouragement! Soon my daughter will be driving her very own car! Thanks again!
Tank
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Good News! The 109 provides power to the ECU, so it can cause much havoc. Hope your Amazon part works.
 
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