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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 18th, 2019, 16:11   #16
antleo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonneber View Post
You can use a multi meter to test the resistance if you have one.
Of which wires / pins? I couldn't find a pin out for the thing when I looked. Im an electronics / low voltage technician by trade so that's an easy enough test for me.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 10:21   #17
Mike_04GolfTDI
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Originally Posted by wonneber View Post
I'm not sure how you blead the BEW injectors.
Remove glowplugs and crank engine until puffs of fuel mist come out through the glowplug holes. Then put glowplugs back and it should run.

Of course this will only help if air in the lines is the only problem.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 12:26   #18
runonbeer
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I had a number of BEW cars come through my shop after sitting for a long time and they would not start once I got them to a point where they should’ve. New injectors fixes it every time.

Can you get your hands on a known good runner set of BEW injectors?
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Old February 19th, 2019, 12:30   #19
runonbeer
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The cam sensor code is probably just a result of all the cranking it has undergone. I used to see cars with weak batteries set cam sensor faults from regular start up because of the voltage sagging below ~8V during cranking. Particularly cars with the crappy 5V GP software.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 18:43   #20
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Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
I had a number of BEW cars come through my shop after sitting for a long time and they would not start once I got them to a point where they should’ve. New injectors fixes it every time.

Can you get your hands on a known good runner set of BEW injectors?
Not likely without buying new unfortunately. Can these be "buzz" tested like on a power stroke? That'd atleast test the electrical side.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 19:03   #21
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Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
The cam sensor code is probably just a result of all the cranking it has undergone. I used to see cars with weak batteries set cam sensor faults from regular start up because of the voltage sagging below ~8V during cranking. Particularly cars with the crappy 5V GP software.

It definitely didn't drop below 8v while cranking, lowest was 10v. That being said it's quite possible it's a false code. But I did pull it apart and found the wire to be Very brittle. To the point the insulation would fall off in my hand. That coupled with the real tight loop (practically knotted) would lead me to believe that it's a possible sensor problem. Ill get a new sensor Friday and find out either way. I really appreciate your input. I'll try to find a set of injectors locally.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 19:09   #22
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Originally Posted by antleo View Post
Of which wires / pins? I couldn't find a pin out for the thing when I looked. Im an electronics / low voltage technician by trade so that's an easy enough test for me.
Thought I forgot something.
Pins 2 3 and 4.
4 is the center.
I had almost 2 years of electronic engineering back in 70-72.
Calculus 3 put an end to it.
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Old February 21st, 2019, 14:50   #23
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So I was able to get the sbesor today, that of course was not it as someone had predicted. I haven't ruled that out exactly yet as the wire harness from the ecu is kind of crappy. The insulation is cracked and brittle. That being Said I think next step is unfortunately injectors. I'm going to pull them out and try cleaning them.. Though I doubt Itll do anything.. Where do they typically gum up? In the tips or up internally in the body?

In regards to the tps, that does appear to be working. I found the value that changes when I step on the pedal (only available in a VAG style interface apparently) . I'm not sure what this is reading as throttle position..
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Old February 21st, 2019, 15:07   #24
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Do not try to take apart your injectors. They will be ruined.

http://www.dbwllc.net/product/damage...tempt-to-open/

You can try sending them away to be professionally refurbished. Or try a used set from a wrecker.

As for where they typically gum up, I would say they do not typically gum up. Mine are fine after 15 years and near 300,000km.

Edit: You can try cleaning them with carburetor cleaner and a soft cloth, but that would just clean gunk off the outside. Won't help internals.

Also, be aware that when you remove the injectors, you need a new seal kit to put them back in. You're looking at about $60 for the four injectors, just to take them out and put them back. Also, the bolts that hold the injectors in cannot be reused, nor can the bolts that hold the injector rocker assemblies. They aren't cheap to replace either.

Basically only remove them as a last resort, not just to have a look or something.
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Last edited by Mike_04GolfTDI; February 21st, 2019 at 15:12.
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Old February 21st, 2019, 15:56   #25
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Originally Posted by Mike_04GolfTDI View Post
Do not try to take apart your injectors. They will be ruined.

http://www.dbwllc.net/product/damage...tempt-to-open/

You can try sending them away to be professionally refurbished. Or try a used set from a wrecker.

As for where they typically gum up, I would say they do not typically gum up. Mine are fine after 15 years and near 300,000km.

Edit: You can try cleaning them with carburetor cleaner and a soft cloth, but that would just clean gunk off the outside. Won't help internals.

Also, be aware that when you remove the injectors, you need a new seal kit to put them back in. You're looking at about $60 for the four injectors, just to take them out and put them back. Also, the bolts that hold the injectors in cannot be reused, nor can the bolts that hold the injector rocker assemblies. They aren't cheap to replace either.

Basically only remove them as a last resort, not just to have a look or something.
I wasnt anticipating taking them apart (as with the power stroke injectors I'm sure these have some high tolerances internally) which Is why I was hoping it was the tips as I could soak them.. But if that's not it..
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Old February 21st, 2019, 16:03   #26
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Have you verified that the cam and crank are timed?
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Old February 21st, 2019, 16:44   #27
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Have you verified that the cam and crank are timed?

I knew there was something I missed. Ill verify that tomorrow. I did pull the valve cover and the cam has very little if any wear on it. I did try to do the timing but couldn't seem to find the TDC mark on the flywheel. After reading more it appears there is none on the flywheel and they're actually both on the timing belt side. (though I'm still a little unclear as to how the crank mark lines up..) looks like there's a bunch of special tools needed to do the timing belt if I end up needing to adjust it?
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Old February 21st, 2019, 16:50   #28
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Have you verified that the cam and crank are timed?
Very good point. The cam sensor code will be set if the cam timing is way out of range.

The cam sprocket is bolted on to the cam hub with three bolts. The holes in the cam sprocket are slotted to allow for some adjustment. If those bolts aren’t tight enough, the sprocket can turn until the bolts reach the end of the slotted holes.

If that happens, it’s not enough to damage valves, but it is enough to prevent the engine from starting.

Pop the upper timing belt cover off and look at those three bolts. Are they near the middle of the slotted holes? If they’re obviously way off to the end of the slots, then the engine wouldn’t run.

To get the adjustment right, you need to be able to see the “torsion” value in group 04 with VCDS or some others can tool. Should be close to 0.0. Positive or negative values indicate advanced or retarded cam timing.
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Old February 21st, 2019, 16:51   #29
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Good reading here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=336279
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Old February 21st, 2019, 18:06   #30
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Very good point. The cam sensor code will be set if the cam timing is way out of range.
The cam sprocket is bolted on to the cam hub with three bolts. The holes in the cam sprocket are slotted to allow for some adjustment. If those bolts aren’t tight enough, the sprocket can turn until the bolts reach the end of the slotted holes.
If that happens, it’s not enough to damage valves, but it is enough to prevent the engine from starting.
Pop the upper timing belt cover off and look at those three bolts. Are they near the middle of the slotted holes? If they’re obviously way off to the end of the slots, then the engine wouldn’t run.
To get the adjustment right, you need to be able to see the “torsion” value in group 04 with VCDS or some others can tool. Should be close to 0.0. Positive or negative values indicate advanced or retarded cam timing.
I shall check that. Obdeleven can definitely get that info. I'll check that here shortly.

Edit: just checked this, the bolts are bottomed out. So I'll need to reset timing and try again.. Any good way to do this without the fancy tools?

Last edited by antleo; February 21st, 2019 at 18:17.
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