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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old October 15th, 2013, 15:47   #16
1.9glstdi
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: J-vill,FL
Fuel Economy: 37MPG around town automatic poo poo
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The best way to get the LCA bushings out is an air chisel 5 seconds max to get them out of there home. A vise or press is the best for putting the TT LCA in place.

I have use rock auto for different things nothing to complain about so far so it is completely up to you if you feel comfy with spring compressors I used my buddies shop the vr6 springs are much heaver than the stock shrimps lol
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Old November 16th, 2013, 16:43   #17
Deadend
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TDI(s): 2001 Jetta
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I've done the rear bushings twice now with a threaded rod and blocks of 2 x 4 with holes cut in them in order to put the pressure on the outer lip. I'd think the LCA bushings would be the same?
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Old November 30th, 2013, 14:42   #18
Ironray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1.9glstdi View Post
I am sorry to take the current struts ou you dont need a spring compressor t. I upgraded to vr6 springs I threw away my old struts. You can also buy fully assembled struts and springs for $100 so technically you don't need compressors.
rock auto
2005 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 1.9L L4 DIESEL Turbocharged SOHC : Suspension : Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly part numbers 1336306 $68 , 171525 $98,7171525 $102 fullyn assembled with spring already just swap them out. If you want a sportier ride you can get the vr6 model.
Mind telling us how you do it? I just spent six hours doing the drivers side. Went to put the new quick strut in and it took me hours to get it into the cup. I had a chisel in the gap spreading it wide open and still the strut never made it to the bottom.

Terrified of doing the passenger side.
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Old December 1st, 2013, 20:46   #19
puntmeister
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I have changed the struts on both sides - I really don't see a reasonable way of removing/installing without spring compressors - other than removing the LCA (which is way more effort than necessary, unless you are changing the bushings).

Its really worth picking up the spring compressors - most auto parts stores offer them as free rentals. Otherwise, Harbor Freight sells a cheap set.

There may be ways to get around the compressors, but why bother? The spring compressors make the job much easier.
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Old December 1st, 2013, 20:50   #20
puntmeister
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Oh - just reread - as per the issue with getting the strut all the way into the cup: either spend the cash on the spreader tool (about $18 shipped), grind down an allen bit (other threads mention the correct size), or, what I did: use a 3/8" to 1/4" ratchet adapter.

Put the 1/4" bit into the gap, turn the ratchet 45 degrees - presto, you have a good enough spread to get the strut all the way in, and a ruined adapter.....
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 18:31   #21
RockRockRock
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AXEL NUTZ
I didn't see it mentioned here, but you get a lot more room to line everything back up if you take off the axle nut. It too is one time use. There is a funny procedure to re-torque this nut that I do not recall.

TOP NUTZ
You need to get creative to button down the top nuts without special tools. A special tool exists to hold the piston rod with an allen key while torquing the top nuts. It's tight around the strut tower clearance-wise so an impact socket wont fit. Torque for the 4 top nuts is 44 ft-lbs. I just used a deep well socket and my baby impact that doesn't put out more than 60. These too are single use, but I don't see why.

SPREADER SHENANIGINZ
I didn't need a spreader, or have any problem seating the bottoms of the shocks. To remove them I used PB blaster and a 1 foot prybar and hammer to break the seal. To reinstall, I greased the bottoms, lined them up, and jacked the car under the control arm and they popped into their place. Your mileage may vary.
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Old December 3rd, 2013, 05:18   #22
jhmk4r
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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TDI(s): 2000 Jetta
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I also refreshed all my suspension, and replaced lower control arm bushings with the solid Audi TT bushings. It only cost $20 aside to rebuild them yourself but what a difference in the handling. I didn't use a spring compressor, both my front springs were broken ( common)and I replaced them with H&R lowering springs, but yes the entire job is a bit awkward but I've done worse. Be careful with the front bolt on the control arm, if the nut inside subframe spins, now your having fun! You'll be cutting a hole in the frame!

Oh yeah strut in the cup, jack, large hammer, crown rust control(lube) and patience...just undo the three bolts from the LCA and the axle nut.

Last edited by jhmk4r; December 3rd, 2013 at 05:24.
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Old February 19th, 2019, 19:14   #23
subber598
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Default Top nut, spreader, and axle nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRockRock View Post
AXEL NUTZ
I didn't see it mentioned here, but you get a lot more room to line everything back up if you take off the axle nut. It too is one time use. There is a funny procedure to re-torque this nut that I do not recall.
TOP NUTZ
You need to get creative to button down the top nuts without special tools. A special tool exists to hold the piston rod with an allen key while torquing the top nuts. It's tight around the strut tower clearance-wise so an impact socket wont fit. Torque for the 4 top nuts is 44 ft-lbs. I just used a deep well socket and my baby impact that doesn't put out more than 60. These too are single use, but I don't see why.
SPREADER SHENANIGINZ
I didn't need a spreader, or have any problem seating the bottoms of the shocks. To remove them I used PB blaster and a 1 foot prybar and hammer to break the seal. To reinstall, I greased the bottoms, lined them up, and jacked the car under the control arm and they popped into their place. Your mileage may vary.
Depends on which axle nut you have: The 27mm hex head needs 200Nm, lower the car on it's wheels, and turn it an additional 180deg; same if you have the 24mm 12pt head 'with washer'. The 12pt head 'without washer' but a serrated shoulder face needs 70Nm plus 90deg. Used a 7mm allen wrench and a pass-thru socket for the strut stem nut. None of my research showed anyone actually using a torque wrench on that nut-most used an impact wrench. I made my own spreader tool as someone mentioned on here; worked slicker than elephant dung. There's a good pic of one on 'partsgeek.com'
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Old February 20th, 2019, 11:49   #24
leafs
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From what I remember I think I disconnected the 3 13mm bolts that hold on the balljoint to the LCA and swung out the entire assembly a bit and then knocked off the knuckle. Didn't even use a spreader, I think I used a small pry bar and lube spray. The passenger side knuckle was a real pain in the ass to remove and install but I think I have some sort of issue on that side... the alignment folks said I have toe in... so bent knuckle, LCA, maybe even subframe.

edit: if you don't want to remove the ball joint from the LCA and not have to get an alignment you can use some spray paint.

Last edited by leafs; February 20th, 2019 at 12:07.
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Old February 21st, 2019, 17:40   #25
wonneber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leafs View Post
the alignment folks said I have toe in... so bent knuckle, LCA, maybe even subframe.
Toe in is set with the tie rods.
Unless they couldn't get them to turn it should be adjustable.
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Old February 21st, 2019, 20:33   #26
leafs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonneber View Post
Toe in is set with the tie rods.
Unless they couldn't get them to turn it should be adjustable.
sorry I meant to say camber in... been smokin too much of that ole green stuff.
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