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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 14th, 2011, 22:44   #1
spooge1
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Default Door Switch Fix (Alternative)

I ran across this thread a couple of days ago. It goes into detail about installing a switch inside the door. If you are particular about your car then this may be the way you want to go.

I've decided to go into detail about the way I fixed my switch, yes it seems to be .50 cents more but if you can afford it, this may be the way for you.

I made a trip to Radio Shack and purchased a pack of momentary on/off switches. Part #275-1548. This is a normally closed switch, meaning when the switch is "up" the connection is made. When it is "down" there is no completed circuit.




What you will need:
Momentary On/Off Switch
Ground wire:18 gauge (about 6 six feet)
Electrical Tape
Drill with bit slightly larger than the switch.
1 Self tapping screw.
Wire snake (coat hanger, mechanics wire) for easier wire routing.
No soldering iron is necessary but if you're an overachiever have at it.


Before disassembly eye ball the gap between the door panel and your dash, choose a prime location for your switch, if you aren't making any contact with the door panel your switch is useless, if you make too much contact you can end up with a broken switch or cracked side panel. I found a couple of washers that fit the diameter of the switch to act as shims in case I needed to mount it more toward the inside of the vehicle (in order to make ideal contact). It is always easier to place shims to "shorten" the switch, if you try installing it and find you don't have enough contact you will probably have to relocate your switch.


Disassemble your door panel


Notice the light socket and the two wires running to it. The driver's side ground on my car is brown...ish. Splice your ground wire into this wire, just strip a little back and wrap the stripped end of your ground around it, then tape.




You will be running your ground wire through the hole in the door where the bundle of wires comes through from the interior. (Yellow Circle)

(I took this picture from some other post, the guy was installing door speakers and showed his passenger side. I flipped to image so it all makes sense.)




Pry back the little rubber boot at the door hinge.




Pulling it back is easy with your hands just grab a side and work around it until it lets go. (Note: This picture is taken after the wire has been run through.)




Now run your wire through the hole and pull through.

(Note: At this point I went ahead and tested the ground to ensure the door light worked again...I then reinstalled the door panel to make adjustments to the switch a bit easier for later. (example: eye-balling the gap between the panels, before mounting switch)

Relieve your car of the under-dash panel to gain easier access by removing the torx screws holding it on. (The two directly beside the OBD-II port do not need to be removed.)




I don't have a picture of the panel removed or this next step because I'm writing this after the fact.

Notice where your wires run from the interior of the car and out. it's probably easiest to go from the inside to the rubber boot then pull the wire through.

You will be drilling a hole through the side dash panel in order to install the switch.

I mounted my switch about mid/top of the panel. I also placed a washer on the back side of the panel, this moved the switch inward a little so the door doesn't crush the switch when closed, only making enough contact to disrupt the connection.




Pop the panel off and install your switch.

You will then be connecting two wires to the switch: One coming from the light socket ground wire and the other will be going to bare metal to make the ground. (It doesn't matter where the wires go on the switch, just that they aren't making contact with each other)
I dilled a small hole and wrapped some stripped wire around the end to make my ground. (If you live in an area with high humidity, or if your sunroof drain tubes have failed before allowing water into your vehicle and you find light rusty coat on the metal, you may want to sand the area down where you are mounting the screw for optimal contact.)




Strip the two remaining ends of your wires and connect them to your switch, wrap your tape around making sure no contact is made between the two wires.




Test switch by pressing it down with your finger and watching the light turn on and off.

Reinstall your door panel if you have not done so and under-dash panel. And enjoy your working door.


Last edited by spooge1; February 15th, 2011 at 21:30.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 22:54   #2
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will this impact at all the car's tendency to think the doors are open or no and resulting alarms issues? Is that triggered off the switch in the lock assembly?
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Old February 14th, 2011, 23:18   #3
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It is my finding that when a working door is open, the latch in the lock assembly triggers the microswitch and a circuit is completed, effectively grounding out the system allowing the door light to come on / door chime to work, etc. If the microswitch is broken it does not allow the circuit to complete because it cannot "ground out". The door pin method seems to be a bypass of the microswitch, still acting as the microswitch was originally intended therefore having no adverse or negative impacts on the system. If at some point in time the microswitch begins to work again they will not interfere with each other because they are both just ground circuits.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 05:46   #4
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YESSS... finally what I have been looking for. I glued my window because I had it drop in the door so the other switch fix would not work for me. This is what I need!!

Thank you!
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Old February 15th, 2011, 17:28   #5
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Nice fix, good work.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 18:01   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooge1 View Post
It is my finding that when a working door is open, the latch in the lock assembly triggers the microswitch and a circuit is completed, effectively grounding out the system allowing the door light to come on / door chime to work, etc. If the microswitch is broken it does not allow the circuit to complete because it cannot "ground out". The door pin method seems to be a bypass of the microswitch, still acting as the microswitch was originally intended therefore having no adverse or negative impacts on the system. If at some point in time the microswitch begins to work again they will not interfere with each other because they are both just ground circuits.
very cool. taking apart that door is a royal PITA..

well done!
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Old February 15th, 2011, 20:44   #7
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yes.....finally a door switch that makes sense....american style, i really hated them dam micro-switches, this is just a simple door switch, not over engineered......k.i.s.s (keep it super simple) THANKYOU
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Old February 15th, 2011, 20:48   #8
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FYI, i used one of those switches for a while as the on/off switch for my onboard computer.

It wore out rather quickly.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 20:52   #9
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im sure any american door pin switch could be used in its place, they are designed for repetative use???
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Old February 15th, 2011, 21:39   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puter View Post
FYI, i used one of those switches for a while as the on/off switch for my onboard computer.
It wore out rather quickly.
Thanks for the tip, I primarily used this switch because Radio Shack is just around the corner, it comes in a 4 pack, and the panel is easy to pop off in case the switch needs to be replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zukvw View Post
im sure any american door pin switch could be used in its place, they are designed for repetative use???
Good Point, just make sure you have enough clearance between the panel other dash components, a quick search pulled up these door pins a majority of them seem rather lengthy.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 22:13   #11
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either way, this is definitely easier than ripping your door panel off, every time theres a problem...
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Old February 24th, 2011, 05:51   #12
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This should be a sticky...
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Old February 24th, 2011, 07:03   #13
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So the interior lights now come on when you open the door? I'm just a little surprised that with that wiring the car is really recognizing the door state.
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Old February 24th, 2011, 07:09   #14
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I'm confused.


Does this mod only operate the puddle light? What about the interior lights? What about the alarm? What about the nifty window down feature using the key?

I don't think this is a replacement to the actual fix.
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Old February 24th, 2011, 07:29   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NB_TDi View Post
I'm confused.


Does this mod only operate the puddle light? What about the interior lights? What about the alarm? What about the nifty window down feature using the key?

I don't think this is a replacement to the actual fix.
I think the best test is the interior lights. The alarm can appear to be functioning, when in fact if you had a break-in thru the affected door the alarm would not sound, and the window down feature will work with a switch reporting closed continually because the lock module still works (at least, mine did for years).

I too, however, believe this is a convenient partial band-aid unless I'm missing something...if the ECU indeed doesn't know if the door is open or closed, someone could take the on-off switch idea a step further and refine the wiring.
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Last edited by eb2143; February 24th, 2011 at 09:27.
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