Guru's Help please. A5 BRM Engine speed sensor, ECU & grounds

SBAtdijetta

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Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Location
Houston, TX
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'10 Jetta Cup 6spd, '02 Jetta Auto
brianstrange said:
Bob, well, what do ya know. After reading your post...... Ta Dah!
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=188951&l=d8957&id=1553462656

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=188950&l=8660b&id=1553462656

What are the chances VW is going to help us out??? I'd prefer not to solder & heat shrink.
Thanks too all of you for this valuable bit of information, and service to the club and A5 and A4 PD owners. I will certainly check this out on my car if I have any issues, likley I still will even if I don't.

My question is so what do you guys think the wires are being rubbed on? Something external that can be routed around, or is it the lager wires rubbing on the smaller ones chaffing them due to not enough slack and too much engine movement? Or something else? TIA!
 

brianstrange

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Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Location
Tyngsboro, MA
TDI
2006.5 Jetta DSG Auto Pkg 1
rubbing on themselves, wearing the insulation. The frequency of the engine shake creates movement, friction takes over and before you know it bare wires.
 

Bob S.

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Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
TDI
A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
I agree with Brian but would add that I think the harness support clamp is too tight.
As I reassemble mine, I am going to:
-Try to move some harness slack out of the plenum to under the air box.
-Add a couple of turns of electrical tape at each harness support clip.
-Add some chafe protection between the harness and split loom @ each support clip.

There are 3 supports clips. The chafe appears to be centered on the one furtherest outboard at the starter solenoid.
I will try to get some pics up this evening. A shot of the split loom interior will explain much.

The harness configuration and installation are such that the symptoms will likely vary from car to car and situation to situation. Brain's wire damage is greater than mine, but his car was operable, while mine could not move more than 10' w/o stalling. My last VCDS scan was frightening :eek: as it was showing errors into window and other components. After I opened the split loom ID'd & function checked the conductor color coding I understood when I learned that one of my damaged wires was related to the engine and instrument cluster diagnostic circuit.
 
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DanG144

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Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
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2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
The split loom is so much harder than the insulation, that it is acting as a file or abrasive. Just shaking the wires in the hard plastic split conduit is causing fretting.

So the actions listed above to stop the relative motion, and or increase the amount of insulation material should help.
 

kcfoxie

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'12 6-spd JSW
I'll inspect the loom, however... I have a late 2006.5 SE and I don't have:

-fan problems
-airbox flap problems

I did have a clutch problem. What are the specific problems that occur? I've not had any issues with the vehicle starting/stoping or the display working.

Is there a part # and estimated cost for those of us well outside the warranty and will need/want to DIY this?

Edit: I can't help but notice it seems those affected by this are in areas where Snow and Salt tend to occur, this may play a part in why it's manifesting sooner than those of us farther south.

Edit 2: you know, now that I think about it I got a coolant low warning last winter that didn't make sense. The resivour was a little low but it was not critical, I shut off the car and added distilled water. I've also gotten random MILs regarding the "flap motor" or "antishudder valve" which I attributed to a failing motor but since the car was starting and stopping I wasn't going to fix it. I'll investigate this over the weekend when its warmer.
 

Bob S.

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Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
DanG144 said:
sensor Pin 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 is 561 ohms
Sensor pin 1 or 2 to 3 is more than 6 Megohms

With the ECM end still hooked up the cable to the sensor gives:
Key ON
pin 1, 2.5 vdc
Pin 2, 2.5 vdc
pin 3, 0.0 vdc

Key off
pin 1+ to ground -, gives 53.26 k ohms
pin 2+ to ground -, gives 53.26 k ohms
pin 3+ to ground -, gives 0 ohms

I can see no external ground wire from the head.

Pin 3 of the crank engine speed sensor is shown as going to a ground, and the resistance measurement I took shows that it very likely does. I do not know where the ground is located.

Drawing series 81/5 is apparently in error in at least one respect: it shows wire 2 connected to wire 3 (between the plug and the ECM) at wiring connection 200 (but, unusually, does not indicate where wire connection 200 is). My wire 2 and 3 are definitely not connected, as the resistance measurements above show. I suspect that someone saw that wire 3 goes to the shield on wire 2 (which is also shown on the wiring diagram.) and thought it was the center conductor. The drawing in my Bentley and my erWin copy of the drawing show the same thing.
Dan;

To verify;

You were measuring the harness to G28 connection at the harness plug correct? With ECU connected. Key on? or Key off?

Do you read pin #3 of the sensor, to the the brass grommet at the bolt mounting hole as having continuity? Specifically, It that a ground point for that sensor, Or simply an anti-crush ring for the plastic sensor housing?

Bob
 

DanG144

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Joined
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Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
Bob, where it says 'sensor pin" that was on the pigtail to the sensor, with it unplugged.

The other readings were on the wiring harness pigtail, again with it unplugged. Some of these are voltage measurements, taken with the key on. And some are resistance measurements taken with the key off. I never try to take resistance measurements with the key on, as you can damage your meter and your ECM or other delicate electronics.

Sorry for the confusion; I can see where my wording needs to be improved.

I just went and measured sensor pin 3 to ground, and it is about 1 ohm. It is not a simple matter to get to my G28 and unfasten it, due to my dieselgeek bypass oil filter assembly. So I did not take it off.

Dan
 
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Bob S.

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Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
Whitedog. Wise, Brian and I suspect we will be seeing more of this. The prudent MK5 would be well served to loosen those harness support clips.
 

Bob S.

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Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
Dan; Understood, I just wanted to verify before I start to button things back up. Hopefully, this is the harness damage area.
 

Bob S.

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Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
As an update. The harness was repaired. Western Union style splices w/ solder & double heat shink. High quality Belden 24 ga wire used for the spliced sections. It was the closest available in size & quality to match the existing wire harness. I am comfortable with the repair quality.

Many new DTC's @ start up. All cleared except those listed in the log below. In summary, the no signal from the G28 ESS sensor. The other code thrown, 01314, I am thinking is related to the G28 ESS. Essentially, I am almost back at the beginning.

As I am new to CanBus systems and VCDS, any & all assistance would be appreciated. Does anyone have any suggestions 1. Prior to me opening up the harness futher &/or going back into the ESS? 2. How to read the G28 signal output on VCDS. My instinctsn are telling me RPM displayed is coming from G40, Cam Sensor. I am reading the G85, Steering Angle Sensor as having lost it's reference in the harness/diagnostics process & have not driven the car to recalibrate it yet). The significant DTC's are:

Chassis Type: 1K0
Scan: 01 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 52 56 62 65 72 7D
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door,Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
7D-Aux. Heat -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 AB HW: 028 101 223 8
Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000SG 7550
Revision: --H02--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F4469814
Coding: 0050071
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
P0322 - 000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11110000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 102985 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:25:59
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 9.27 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Idle Stabilization: 0.0°KW
RPM: 84 /min
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 1
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AC HW: 1K0 907 379 AC
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Revision: 00H11001
Coding: 0021122
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-M.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 P HW: 3C0 937 049 P
Component: Bordnetz-SG H46 1501
Revision: 00H46000 Serial number: 00000000423784
Coding: 14018E234004150007140000001400000008730B5C0000
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
Part No: 1K1 955 119 E
Component: Wischer 150806 020 0501
Coding: 00038805
Shop #: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 215
Mileage: 102985 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 11.15 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x.lbl
Part No: 1K1 909 144 L
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.069 H07 1806
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
2 Faults Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Mileage: 102970 km
Temperature: 21.0°C
Voltage: 12.00 V
Voltage: 11.80 V


End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 
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Bob S.

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Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
As an update:

The car is fixed & running normally. I just finished a 1k mile road trip & the car ran flawlessly. For the record and as a diagnostic aid for others:

The root cause of the problem was chafe in the engine wire harness between the ECM and engine. Multiple chafe points existed. The wire chafe that I found and previously outlined previously was not the root cause of the problem. Similar chafe existed further up the harness at another support clip.

After the last post, I did more jiggle & pinch tests (manual manipulation of the harness) on the harness and was able to find another area in the harness where I was able to vary the conditions & operation of the engine by moving and or pinching the harness in different ways. If pinched in a one way, the tach would return to normal, if pinched in a different orientation and way, the engine would immediately shut off, just as if the ignition had been turned off. If jiggled in a various ways, different DTC’s would be triggered. Triggered DTC’s not only included engine codes, but ABS, ESP, Air Bag, Can buss, Instrument cluster, Window/Door modules as well.

Further, unwrapping of the harness identified additional chafe points. The additionally found harness chafe was also in the 3.5 mm signal circuits. One of which was identified via the color code as being part of the Can-buss diagnostics circuit.

At this juncture, I abandoned attempting to repair the existing harness. Simply, I took the easy way out as it was just too time consuming, I travel too many miles in the car to far from home to want a harness repaired to that extent. So, I ordered a new harness from World Impex. Joey and John @ Impex were very helpful and were able to have one to me within 3 days of my order. Joey did state that their information indicated that the harness showed a superceded part.

I installed the new harness, except for the G28 sensor. This was done as I did not want to have to remove the oil filter bracket more than necessary. It had to be removed to make the G28 sensor to harness connection and I wanted to ensure that no other work was needed in that area prior to reinstallation.

The engine started and ran just fine without the G28 connection but VCDS still indicated a G28 signal loss (because the sensor was not connected. I was able to clear most all other DTC’s (except for a G85 steering angle calibration which appeared to have been lost) and virtually everything returned to normal. I again removed the oil filter bracket, connected the new harness to the G28 sensor. The starts retuned to the normal quick starts I was accustomed to, the tack again worked and the G28 DTC cleared. The G85 steering angle calibration was painless and the dash display returned to a normal, boring appearance.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52153&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=48579
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52154&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=48579
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52155&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=48579
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52156&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=48579
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=52157&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=48579
 
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Bob S.

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Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
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A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
To answer some questions raised in this thread:

1. The BRM (or at least mine) will definitely run without the G28 signal. Apparently, as it uses the cam speed sensor as reference in the absence of the G28 crank sensor. Without the G28 sensor connected (or with a faulty signal) the start is much, much slower with an extended cranking time.

2. The Ground Points list posted in page #1 is as listed in Bentley’s. My car does not have a ground wire at every attachment point. Many ground points had multiple grounds connected thereto. Other, albeit, unused ground studs exist on the A5 platform as I found numerous such points when checking the Bentley’s listed points. The problems my car experienced were a result of harness chafe not ground point/corrosion related.

3. There was a disparity in the fuse numbering and purpose between what actually exists in my car and those shown in my owner’s manual and in Bentley’s. Bentley’s and the owner’s manual did not agree either. The owner of a similar production period A5 informed me of the same thing. I encourage every A5 owner to photograph their fuse blocks for recordation purposes.

4. I had multiple chafe points in my harness. The one at the starter solenoid was the first I happened into. Other chafe existed further up the harness.

5. The BRM harness layout is such that the heavier gage conductors are in the center, or core, of the harness. The lesser gage (sensor signal and twisted pairs) are around the circumference the harness core. The harness root and size is such that it is not very flexible. The stresses, movement & weight are point loaded at the supports, ECU, and the junction near the left head (opposite side from the timing belt). The plastic of the split looms is harder then the conductor insulation. Therefore, when chafe occurs, the very small gage, .35 mm (or about 26 to 28 ga.) signal conductor’s insulation is sacrificed to the split loom and harness movement is carried by the smallest wires with the least insulation.

6. I have learned of other BEW & BRM engines which have experienced similar problems. I have not established if the 2.0T &/or the 2.5 gassers have similar problems. Some have filed a complaint with the NTSB as have I.

7. I filed a warranty claim with VW; which VW promptly denied. If others are filing a similar complaint, please feel free to PM me as I will be more than happy to provide you with my file number so that you may establish a pattern. I am appealing the warranty denial (As others have said, VW’s warranty is not good for much).

8. Oilhammer's comment that the 2g28 sensor rarely goes bad is spot on. It is a bugger to access and R&R on the BEW & BRM's. If you are suspecting a problem there, you may save o lot of time by checking your harness first.


Much thanks to assistance and direction in repairing this problem to: Dan, Rich, Joe, Brian, Oliver, Jeff R., Ross-Tech, Impex and especially to Fred for this site which made this (and other past ones) repair so much easier to diagnosis & repair. A donation was made as way of thanks.

While I cannot verify it, my suspicion is that this condition had been developing for quite a while, perhaps back to about 20K. miles or so. Very occasionally, the car would very rough, almost as if it were out of time. As the condition could not be replicated and occurred occasionally, I figured it was just one of those things. The discoloration in the chafed copper conductors indicated that the condition had been developing for a long period of time. If you have concerns, your may want to voice it to VW. See Brian’s post re. the NTSB. I hope of other's sake that mine, Brian's & the others I happened into are isolated failures. But, BEW & BRM owners: Heads Up.
 
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Dimitri16V

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Jan 30, 2005
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DE
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01 Golf, 04 Golf
It needs to be said that the diesel engine vibrations were not taken into consideration by the factory. For the same reason, the foam pads inside the fenders rubb against the primed only metal and rust is the result.
Another blow to VWs reliability
 

kcfoxie

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'12 6-spd JSW
personally i don't rate reliability by how long a fender lasts, but that's me. you've got a perfectly valid point, regardless.
 

Powder Hound

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Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
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'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
If anyone noticed that a large number of this type failure happens, and VW refuses to warrant the offending harness, then perhaps a class action lawsuit is in order. NHTSA won't worry about it too much because it (on the surface) would appear to be less safety related and more just operational.

I would think that sudden stoppage in the middle of a freeway or similar behaviors would make it immediately obvious that it is safety related, but there's no telling how the NHTSA is going to interpret things when someone doesn't die immediately from a perceived deficiency in the car.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Denton, TX
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
I know of one TDI engine fire, I remember thinking to myself that it was a insurance scam, or a wiring problem.

I've seen a couple of weird wiring gremlins on the a5s, specifically the older 05.5s... but most were mouse chews..

Good catch... something else I get to look for when troubleshooting engine wiring problems.
 

kcfoxie

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Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'12 6-spd JSW
Powder Hound said:
If anyone noticed that a large number of this type failure happens, and VW refuses to warrant the offending harness, then perhaps a class action lawsuit is in order. NHTSA won't worry about it too much because it (on the surface) would appear to be less safety related and more just operational.

I would think that sudden stoppage in the middle of a freeway or similar behaviors would make it immediately obvious that it is safety related, but there's no telling how the NHTSA is going to interpret things when someone doesn't die immediately from a perceived deficiency in the car.
Your sadly correct. The Jeep Liberty CRD has had two units burn down due to a very poor heater element application in the fuel filter housing unit. Until 10% of vehicles (I believe that was the quoted figure) of the 11,250 units produced exhibits the problem, there is nothing NHTSA can do regarding a recall or forcing Crysler/Jeep to warranty/repair the problem.

Sad fact is for some reason this heater is turned on when the vehicle is left in accessory mode. Stupid, stupid.
 

DZLDRAG

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Location
West Michigan
Thank you Bob S.

I have got all the same errors that Bob displayed in this thread. Car will run without tack, but is parked right now as I finally made it home as I was away on vacation when this happened. If it were not for the TDI Club forum, I may have never figured out this issue, and attempted to drive it home 700 miles. I thank God that I brought my Vag-com and laptop on vacation....... it was a last second decision to throw in trunk when locking up to leave.

I will look into the wire harness hopefully this weekend when I have time and try to find the gremlins. In the last week have driven 1500+ miles and have not gone more than 300 now without a hickup and have in total now cleared the codes over a dozen times since the first time it threw all these codes on 5/6/09.

Bob, how much did the harness cost? I have 06.5 TDI SE with BRM motor.
 
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Bob S.

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Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
TDI
A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
I purchased it from http://www.worldimpex.com Joey is the one that helped me. Great service. I will look up the receipt later tonight & PM you. Joey did say that the harness had been superceded.

Try to fix the wires if you can. My chafe was such that it was no longer worth the grief. I already had 2 projects underway when mine developed. I needed to get the car back on the road. Since the repair, I have >6K miles on it & it has run like a top.

If the chafe is not too great, it should be easier to simply repair the wires. If yours is as extensive as mine & you go the harness route, take your time, read Bentleys' & be careful as you disconnect the harness connections. Several are a real PITAs, accessing the crank sensor was not fun, the injector to head harness connection took a bit of time to figure out. I connected my battery via 6' battery cables bolted to the stock connections (insulated) so I could place the battery on the floor & run the car for trouble shooting during the process. It saved much time. Just remember that the wipers will not operate with hood up (I wasted too much time trying to figure that one out. Thanks again, Oliver).

Good luck with it. DanG & JoeTDI were the ones who deserve the thanks this issue.
 
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sounds

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Location
USA
TDI
2005 Mkiv Jetta
I have a mk4 2005 Jetta TDI, so I was curious and removed the lower air filter housing to look at the wiring underneath it. There is a wiring bundle there, but it comes from the factory wrapped in cloth-backed electrical tape (easy to check for chafing or wear, by feel underneath it and just looking at the top). The wiring is covered with a plastic cable guide that's square but runs from under the air filter to the point it mates with the wiper cover.

The two points where it's held in place are under the battery where the engine cables join with the battery power and behind the air filter (the wiring comes up and is visible) where the cables join with the MAF sensor cable and brake fluid cables (and others).

No signs of chafing... whew!
 

DZLDRAG

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Location
West Michigan
Sorry it took so long to reply, but after a couple days of looking at wires I could not visually see anything. Cheaper to replace engine speed sensor than the wire harness, so swapped that out and probleme solved now for last 4K miles. I have the old engine speed sensor and wonder why it failed, it should all be solid state and last longer than 70K miles.
 

tracert

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Location
Reno, Nv
TDI
2006 Jetta
Great thread thanks for the information! I have 140K on my 06 BRM Jetta and I have been fighting random codes / problems since July! My tach didn't go out but it has been 'bouncing' by about 300-500 rpm since the car had 50k on it. Ordering a new harness tomorrow and hope to have everything running over the weekend.
 

tracert

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Location
Reno, Nv
TDI
2006 Jetta
Yeah I had chafing at all three connection points on the front of the engine, the second clip after the battery had the most damage (One of the wires was completely broken and was only being held together by the electric tape). I haven't pulled all the wiring yet but have seen signs of wire damage where the wires run on the back of the head too.

I spent the entire Thanks Giving weekend running down wiring problems...my heated seats had also stopped working. The wires running out of the firewall on the passenger side and feeds up the hood hindge to the heated noises had also broke. LOL - I'm afraid to look to see why one of the rear speakers has intermitten problems!

I will include pictures soon.
 

kcfoxie

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'12 6-spd JSW
tracert said:
Yeah I had chafing at all three connection points on the front of the engine, the second clip after the battery had the most damage (One of the wires was completely broken and was only being held together by the electric tape). I haven't pulled all the wiring yet but have seen signs of wire damage where the wires run on the back of the head too.

I spent the entire Thanks Giving weekend running down wiring problems...my heated seats had also stopped working. The wires running out of the firewall on the passenger side and feeds up the hood hindge to the heated noises had also broke. LOL - I'm afraid to look to see why one of the rear speakers has intermitten problems!

I will include pictures soon.
Let me guess, rear driver door's tweeter has issues?

Mine does too!
 

Bob S.

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Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
TDI
A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
tracert said:
Yeah I had chafing at all three connection points on the front of the engine, the second clip after the battery had the most damage (One of the wires was completely broken and was only being held together by the electric tape). I haven't pulled all the wiring yet but have seen signs of wire damage where the wires run on the back of the head too.
Be careful disconnecting the harness connections @ the head, in back of the head & in front of the block. They can be a bit tricky.

To make it easier when I did it, it did pull a few components on the drivers side of the head to make running the harness easier. FWIW, you may want to consider pulling the valve cover to inspect the cam & lifters when doing this as it will improve the harness access behind the vc.

Sorry to read of your problem. I know you pain first hand. Good luck with it.

Bob
 

storbick

New member
Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Location
Blairstown. NJ
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
thanks

Hi!

Thanks to all for the entries in this thread. I have a 2006 Jetta TDI that I purchased on 11/1/2006. It currently has 103k miles. For the last 15k miles I have had numerous issues when driving in mostly wet conditions. Had all of the warning lights go crazy; had the car stall on the road and in my driveway. Got the P0322 error when connecting my VagCom. I had my buddy check the wiring harness right below the air box and that's where he found the chaffed wiring; specifically, the blue/brown & red/black wires. It's the red/black wire that seems to be causing all of the issues I've had. It was cut/spliced/taped/cursed back together and that appears to have resolved the issues. I will attempt to contact VW but if there's no response; I will file a complaint with the NHTSA and then call CNN. We have lots of pictures showing the before & after images of this mess.

Thanks again.

steve
 

Bob S.

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Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
TDI
A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
Steve, Sorry to read of your problems but glad to learn that you got the issue shorted out. Please post the photos if & when you have time.
 
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