acmercg
Veteran Member
No installed pics? Any differences in clearance between manufacturers? I prefer them to tuck as close to the bumper as possible.
That looks like a dynomometer. Chrysler has these at their proving grounds and they use them to simulate load, or to measure other things.Did VW test towing with the Passat?
I put the CURT hitch (11234) on mine. $148 from Amazon.
Hey,
Well done. How long did it take to install? Is is direct bolt on for the TDI? Was the BlueTec tank an issue?
Thanks!!
Lol. Those are some interesting priorities.... like my buddy who tows a $55K, 28' Baja boat with a POS S10 Blazer. Disaster waiting to happen.
Yup. It was a brilliant bit of marketing directed at the suburban crowd. Think about it...in the span of just a couple decades...people were convinced that if they wanted to tow a 300lb utility trailer with a few bags of mulch, they need to go buy a 1/2 ton truck.My MKIV Jetta has been great for towing, but the most I've ever towed was about 1500 lbs (small Kubota mower (diesel, of course) on a small utility trailer). Anything more than that I tow with my Dodge Cummins.
Funny thing to me is that when I was a kid, almost everyone that towed something towed with a car...utility trailers, pop-up campers, etc. I didn't know but a couple of people who even owned a truck. Sure, most of the cars were bigger and heavier back then, but they had drum brakes!
Now, I see more trailers towed by motorcycles than by cars....
Trailer brakes aren't that expensive. Even with my current generation Toyota Tundra with TOW PACKAGE, the 6x12 U-haul trailer will push it down the mountain. U-hauls don't have trailer brakes thanks to their 2K max weight rating.Niner is not off-base regarding towing. Brake fade is a serious towing issue when coupled with steep hills. Smaller trailers, like those sized for mid/compact vehicles typically have no braking systems -- and the ones that do use self actuators on the tongue (known as 'better late than never' brakes, and not of much help in long braking events). Our TDIs are not engineered with towing in mind. Brake fade can easily occur when forced to maintain slow descents on steep grades, for many miles (e.g., slow traffic, inclement weather, sharp 'cut-back' routes). The physics of braking are much about converting motion into energy (heat) WITHOUT exceeding limits. Wikipedia: Brake Fade
If you ever lost 95% of braking down a curvy mountain descent, you won't take this lightly. Been there, done that, lesson learned, electric brake controller purchased.
Even with a Toyota Tundra, too much weight in the nose or tail of the trailer will mess up the suspension of the pickup. Too much sway at speed, put more weight in the nose of the trailer or SLOW DOWN. Too much squat with the tow vehicle, unload the nose and put more weight on the trailer axles.After having just spent two and a half weeks in Europe (Netherlands, Spain, Germany, London) I would like to point out a big difference between a European trailer and an American trailer - tongue weight!
Pretty much every European trailer has tandem axles. Unless one for a scooter or a wheelchair. And the axles are set a bit further apart - essentially carrying the full weight of the trailer and payload.
My point was that a European trailer will have almost no tongue weight transferred to the rear of the car compared to an American single axle trailer. Even if it is balanced correctly.Even with a Toyota Tundra, too much weight in the nose or tail of the trailer will mess up the suspension of the pickup. Too much sway at speed, put more weight in the nose of the trailer or SLOW DOWN. Too much squat with the tow vehicle, unload the nose and put more weight on the trailer axles.
I just want to triple check that the 56201 is the correct wiring kit for the 2013 Passat TDI SEL Premium, as in you used this kit in your car or know someone who did without any issues. For some reason, Curt lists the fitment for this kit as "2013 Passat Sedan, Except Diesel Models", so I don't want to pull the trigger to buy it and install it only to be disappointed. I thought that all the North American Passats have the same PWM lighting and same wiring, but I could be wrong.That kit does come with the correct trailer lighting controller. As for the hitch itself, I do not know.
I installed the same hitch on my '13 TDI, this past Thursday, and had the same issue. I'm not sure why it wasn't straight. My fix is going to be lowering the high side down, using washers between the mount and the frame it bolts to. I had a 60x24 cargo carrier on mine, holding 4 sets of golf clubs (probably 140# total) and the right side (passenger) dragged the road a few times because of the angle it was at (and how low the hitch is. I have a 6" rise adapter coming to get it off the ground.Unfortunately, the square tube (reciever) is tilter to the right, and NOT straight. Especially dumb. It was obvious before I even installed it. I'll update with a photo soon. Not good Curt.
Bad fabrication. The square tube was pinned crooked, not flat on the hitch before welding. It seems like you would have to try to do this. The square tube has a gap on the right side at its union with the hitch. It is remarkably BAD fabrication. The combination of pinching the bumper mounts and bad welding make this CURT hitch a bad investment. Unfortunately, you can't find any more substantial design for a domestic hitch mounting configuration. Pinching unibody tubes is NOT smart.I installed the same hitch on my '13 TDI, this past Thursday, and had the same issue. I'm not sure why it wasn't straight. My fix is going to be lowering the high side down, using washers between the mount and the frame it bolts to. I had a 60x24 cargo carrier on mine, holding 4 sets of golf clubs (probably 140# total) and the right side (passenger) dragged the road a few times because of the angle it was at (and how low the hitch is. I have a 6" rise adapter coming to get it off the ground.
If your receiver is as badly welded in as mine, you may not be able to shim the left mount out enough to level the hitch. AND, you'll be dropping the entire thing down. Maybe we should ask for a new hitch. It is clearly defective, and whoever was working the line making them was making a sytematic fabrication error/mistake. I don't use a cargo tray, so my tilted receiver just looks stupid. If I used a cargo tray on my hitch, I'd be real disappointed.I installed the same hitch on my '13 TDI, this past Thursday, and had the same issue. I'm not sure why it wasn't straight. My fix is going to be lowering the high side down, using washers between the mount and the frame it bolts to. I had a 60x24 cargo carrier on mine, holding 4 sets of golf clubs (probably 140# total) and the right side (passenger) dragged the road a few times because of the angle it was at (and how low the hitch is. I have a 6" rise adapter coming to get it off the ground.
I don't see why this wasn't your first action.If your receiver is as badly welded in as mine, you may not be able to shim the left mount out enough to level the hitch. AND, you'll be dropping the entire thing down. Maybe we should ask for a new hitch. It is clearly defective, and whoever was working the line making them was making a sytematic fabrication error/mistake. I don't use a cargo tray, so my tilted receiver just looks stupid. If I used a cargo tray on my hitch, I'd be real disappointed.
I should contact Curt. If they'd send a good one and install it I'd happily let them take this one off the road.
After looking at it a little more, I noticed the same thing you did. I decided to remove it and re-weld it. However, my cargo carrier uses a 2" receiver instead of the 1-1/4" one that is on our Curt hitches. I removed the 1-1/4 and installed a 2" receiver tube on mine. It is flat, and perfect. I did have an adapter (1-1/4 to 2") but it extended the cargo carrier out away from the car a little farther, thus decreasing the amount of weight I could put on it. It is only rated at 200# (including the cargo carrier) and you lose around 15% for every 12" you go out farther from the car.Bad fabrication. The square tube was pinned crooked, not flat on the hitch before welding. It seems like you would have to try to do this. The square tube has a gap on the right side at its union with the hitch. It is remarkably BAD fabrication. The combination of pinching the bumper mounts and bad welding make this CURT hitch a bad investment. Unfortunately, you can't find any more substantial design for a domestic hitch mounting configuration. Pinching unibody tubes is NOT smart.
I wonder if the hidden hitch is just as bad??