DIY Fuel filter change?

2015 TDI 2.0l. Dealer's wanting $40 for the part and $100 for labor. It looks like a simple pull and replace per some youtube vids.

My question is can this be done in the driveway without using the VW specific software to prime the system? It appears that in a couple of the videos they drained the filter housing then added diesel until it was topped off, leaving little to no air between the pickup and the filter.

I don't want to save $100 to spend $1000 but if it's as easy as it looks I'd like to try it myself.

EDIT. I've done a bit of reading on here but don't understand what the PS "Power Service" fluid is and why some are topping off with that vs diesel? ALSO, since I have the 2015 with the redesigned motor, will the fuel pump be new or will it work like the 2013-14 models and run the fuel pump when the ignition switch is turned?

EDIT 2: I just opened up the hood and noticed that the lines going into the filter are in-line (I could put a level on them and all 3 touch where they meet the base) and the older models are staggered. So long as the dealer gives me the correct part I assume it's all the same inside.

I have $102 left on my VW card so planning on picking up a couple filters and maybe some ad blue.


Thanks!

you may be able to get away with it by cycling the key a few times. but its definitely a do it yourself job. very straightforward.

I purchased a small cheap gas can. Go get 1/2 gallon diesel and poor some back in the fuel filter bowel. I put in enough to saturate the filter and fill close to the top with filter installed. Pour the rest of the diesel into your gas tank. It should start up first or second try. Easy job! I have done it 5 times no issues. Not sure if PowerService silver or white will work but easier to find in Kansas City. I know Walmart carries it.

James

"To prime or not to prime" has been debated here since 2008 early CRTDIs. I believe the vast majority of owners/dealers do NOT prime the pump, although dealer techs have been instructed to do so.

IIRC, most of the CR TDIs do NOT run the lift pump when you cycle the key on and off. There have been posts that contradict this, but I know for sure that my 2012 and my 2014 did NOT prime with a key turn.

Unknown if 2015's lift pump cycles with the key.

Easy DIY job. Plan to wrap the filter housing in shop rags prior to opening, as there will be some fuel spilled.

If your tank is 3/4 or more full you can even siphon a small amount to use in topping off the fuel filter housing. This is one of the easiest DYI car projects - go for it.

I also remove the filter housing, in order to fully invert it, drain it, and wipe it clean, always looking for sludge/water. I've found incredibly small amounts of debris in the JSW (rust), zero water. On my 09 JSW and 2014 Passat, it's easy enough, assume it's just as easy on the 2015.

I just opened up the hood and noticed that the lines going into the filter are in-line (I could put a level on them and all 3 touch where they meet the base) and the older models are staggered. So long as the dealer gives me the correct part I assume it's all the same inside.

I have $102 left on my VW card so planning on picking up a couple filters and maybe some ad blue.

Is housing easy to remove? I just turkey-baster out the fuel, wipe clean & dry, blow it out with a little compressed air.

I use old towels as shop towels, use one to wipe all dust away from the can, place another to the right of the can. remove bolts, place bolts in a clean area. Remove the filter top, place on the clean towel- I use a long screwdriver between the hoses to lock it over to the side. Remove old filter and suck out fuel, inspect for any grit- wipe any grit out with a lint free paper towel, mine was as clean as the day it rolled off the line. Place new filer in and put the top back on taking time to match the ports up perfectly. Tighten the bots to spec. Turn key on but don't start, you should here the in tank pump run for a couple seconds, its quite loud-cannot miss the sound, do this 3-4 times. if you don't here it you must remove the top and manually fill the filter can or use VCDS to cycle the pump.

When I did the 40K service (in my garage on ramps), the fuel filter was probably the easiest part, the DSG of course being the most complex and time-consuming.
The procedure outlined above by 'jrm' is as good as anything, and pretty much what I did, except that on our Passat (a '13 SEL with KESSY), turning on the ignition would NOT cycle the pump. I simply removed the old filter, inspected the housing with a flashlight (nothing but clear, clean fuel in there), lowered the new filter slowly into the housing, topped up with fresh diesel* (Power Service would be another option), and screwed the housing back down. Since I have VCDS, I then took the extra step of running the tank pump for a couple of cycles to ensure the lines were full, then it fired right up.

NB: Pouring diesel or etc. into the slots around the outside of the filter is OK, because that is the "dirty side" of the filter anyway; the center hole is where the fuel is discharged to the engine, and is the "clean side."

The above posts pretty much explain the process. One thing I'll add is after everything is buttoned up and running I spray the filter housing and surrounding areas with Simple Green and hose it all off. Any spilled diesel (and associated the fumes) are removed before entering your cabin.

Both my '13 pasdat SEL and my '15 GSW SEL run the lift pump when the ignition is turned on.

This us very easy to check... just lay the top back 9n the filter canister after removing the old filter and fuel, and turn on the ignition briefly. Both of mine ended up with the canister 1/2 full of fuel.

Very easy to do, easier than changing the oil filter.

I have done it twice on our Passat and never had to add diesel to the filter housing just put the new filter in tighten all the screws down (like you would lug nuts, across not in a circle) turn the key on wait a few seconds and crank. Let it run and check for leaks.

That's it, if you need detailed pics let me know.

FYI advance auto apparently doesn't know what filter our car takes they were giving me the wrong one, Orileys carries the WIX filters and have the correct one.

Tyler_LBZ said:

Very easy to do, easier than changing the oil filter.

I have done it twice on our Passat and never had to add diesel to the filter housing just put the new filter in tighten all the screws down (like you would lug nuts, across not in a circle) turn the key on wait a few seconds and crank. Let it run and check for leaks.

That's it, if you need detailed pics let me know.

FYI autozone apparently doesn't know what filter our car takes they were giving me the wrong one, Orileys carries the WIX filters and have the correct one.

Click to expand...

IF you're not draining and cleaning the filter housing, and are simply removing/replacing FF leaving old fuel in the canister (which one dealer did to my JSW...I never went back!), you are allowing whatever large material the filter has removed, which has fallen to the bottom of the canister, to be pulled into the interior, UNFILTERED side of the filter. This could be a problem if you have a gazillion almost microscopic rusty particles in the bottom of the canister, which I discovered on 3 different occasions with my JSW.

I don't think siphoning/wiping clean is sufficient. I prefer a complete removal, flushing/inverting of the canister to assure it's as clean as possible.

I've been on this forum for 7 1/2 years, joining the forum at the height of the original CRTDI HPFP failures, so perhaps I'm a bit more OCD than most.

tdiatlast said:

IF you're not draining and cleaning the filter housing, and are simply removing/replacing FF leaving old fuel in the canister (which one dealer did to my JSW...I never went back!), you are allowing whatever large material the filter has removed, which has fallen to the bottom of the canister, to be pulled into the interior, UNFILTERED side of the filter. This could be a problem if you have a gazillion almost microscopic rusty particles in the bottom of the canister, which I discovered on 3 different occasions with my JSW.
I don't think siphoning/wiping clean is sufficient. I prefer a complete removal, flushing/inverting of the canister to assure it's as clean as possible.
I've been on this forum for 7 1/2 years, joining the forum at the height of the original CRTDI HPFP failures, so perhaps I'm a bit more OCD than most.

Click to expand...

Good to know, next time I change it I will remove the canister and clean it. Thanks!

Tyler LBZ: You're welcome. The problem with my OCD process is it becomes a bit more time consuming, and risks a bit more slop.

IF the HPFPs in these cars weren't so hyper-sensitive, simple removal/replacement would be a breeze. I'm sure that's how it was originally planned. Given the risks involved, a thorough cleaning is in order.

tdiatlast said:

IF you're not draining and cleaning the filter housing, and are simply removing/replacing FF leaving old fuel in the canister (which one dealer did to my JSW...I never went back!), you are allowing whatever large material the filter has removed, which has fallen to the bottom of the canister, to be pulled into the interior, UNFILTERED side of the filter. This could be a problem if you have a gazillion almost microscopic rusty particles in the bottom of the canister, which I discovered on 3 different occasions with my JSW.
I don't think siphoning/wiping clean is sufficient. I prefer a complete removal, flushing/inverting of the canister to assure it's as clean as possible.
I've been on this forum for 7 1/2 years, joining the forum at the height of the original CRTDI HPFP failures, so perhaps I'm a bit more OCD than most.

Click to expand...

Your filters must have been different than mine,
I used the Mann filter and it is only open on the top where the filtered fuel is pulled into engine, closed on bottom so no way for enything to get inside from canister unfiltered.
Maybe they make other brand open bottom filters, which would require the long process, but get the correct filters and no issue.

I removed filter, inspected for water bubles and debris, none found.
Lowered in new filter, filled center with power service and topped off canister.
Closed it up, keyed, waited, shut off keyed again and fired it up.
Zero delay in start, fired off normal.

Herkguy: Yup...VW changes filter canister design, and therefore filter design, whenever they please. My 2012 had FF open top and bottom, ditto for my 2014...same as my 2009 JSW.
And...NONE of these 3 CR TDIs lift pump cycles with the key...go figure...

Interesting, I know the WRONG filter I got from advanced auto was open top and bottom and it looked nothing like the factory VW filter so I took it back and got the right one from O'reilly's.

The VW filter that came in the car was only open on the top and you can hear the lift pump cycle with the key.

Odd why they would change something like that esp when the design our car came with makes it so easy, almost as easy as my spin on fuel filter on my Duramax.

replace fuel filter bolts?

ID Parts recommends replacing the set of bolts along with the filter. Is there a reason not to reuse the originals? The torque specified shouldn't be stressing them to the point of needing replacement.

Hmm...I suppose, after 8-10 replacements, you might want to, but as OCD as I am, I wouldn't.
But what do I know? I left the TDI world 3 years ago...

phreaddy said:

ID Parts recommends replacing the set of bolts along with the filter. Is there a reason not to reuse the originals? The torque specified shouldn't be stressing them to the point of needing replacement.

Click to expand...

I haven't had any issues reusing the fuel filter canister top bolts highest was 140K, so 7 fuel filters. You're touching the bolts every 20K, torque is something low like 20nm, so even if the car sees 400K miles thats only 20 changes, really low.

Do people change their lug bolts each time they change wheels?

Yeah, thanks.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

phreaddy said:

ID Parts recommends replacing the set of bolts along with the filter. Is there a reason not to reuse the originals? The torque specified shouldn't be stressing them to the point of needing replacement.

Click to expand...

I've known folk who could strip the heads of those bolts after one change, so I suppose it all depends. In a hurry, using an ASE allen wrench that is slightly smaller than the metric wrench, and sure, you could strip them.

Now that I've said that, I don't remember if they were steel or aluminum...or stainless???

Hey guys! I was just about to replace the filter and realized the new one is half as long as the original. The part number appears correct and it looks the same otherwise. Is this ok?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

That's odd. Maybe they revised the filter design so that water would have a place to collect in the canister.

Edit: Looks like they just streamlined by using one filter for multiple housing sizes.

https://garagewire.co.uk/news/mann-filter-issues-new-advice-for-vw-fuel-filter-applications/

Turbo is correct...

I checked the manufacturer's website and there is a PDF explaining this -- and assuring that despite significantly less element surface, the filter should last just as long.

For what it's worth, UFI filter from IDparts was still full size,

Personally, I'd try to source the original full-length filter. With all the HPFP issues, it's shameful that VAG would minimize the filter size.

tdiatlast said:

Personally, I'd try to source the original full-length filter. With all the HPFP issues, it's shameful that VAG would minimize the filter size.

Click to expand...

It's not VW to blame but Mann (last time i knew, VW doesn't make filters, just like they don't make DSGs, wheel bearings or shocks).

Seeing VW is specing a 20K filter change out, if you figure you get 40MPG combined that's only 500 gallons flowing through that filter, VW prob way over spec'ed the filter size per the change interval, yeah it's prob erring on the side of caution but still Mann making that shorty filter not VW.

If the cost between a full size UFI filter and a Mann's "shorty" are the same I would agree that I'd buy the UFI, but if the shorty was say $10 cheaper i'd wouldn't have any issues with the Mann.