Hold on, uh, what just happened? I just bought a V10 too!

What have I gotten myself into?

It's in limp mode still, so I'll update the thread when she's got the vroom vroom back in her.

Holey sheets! Everyone is buying V10s!

Congratulations, kooyajerms. Post a full VCDS scan when you get a chance.

Congrats on the pick up! These things are monsters.


My moneys on the stepper motors

Just so you guys buying them know what you are getting into if it ever needs work. Yes you bought it cheap, but still will not be a cheap car to fix.

Yeti35 said:

Just so you guys buying them know what you are getting into if it ever needs work. Yes you bought it cheap, but still will not be a cheap car to fix.

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Truth!

All Touaregs can be expensive to fix but it's that wonderful engine in the V10 that can be the ball-breaker.

VW dealers have a remove and replace engine book time of a mere 30 hours. Others can do it in a third of that time.

I love this thread:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f...distribution-of-a-touareg-v10-frex-73289.html

Thanks Lawson,
yeah Matt already came by and checked the wiring to the actuator, and said it's good to go. So it should be the actuator. linkage is moving the vane ring without any binding.

Forgot to save the codes, but its mainly the bank1 turbo and the air ride right now.
module is coming up as defective, but the ride is holding air and even leveling out when I park it on a curb.

Owain@malonetuning said:

Congrats on the pick up! These things are monsters.
My moneys on the stepper motors

Click to expand...

of course it is.

Here is the module that I sent out.
19791 - Control Module 1 for Turbocharger(s)
P3335 - 000 - Missing Message(s)

The old module read this way. (still holding onto it at the moment)
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent

I had the module sent out, they replaced the motor, worm gear and some circuitboard repair. Installed the "rebuilt" and its still not responding. We'll see if they can actually do it right the 2nd time. They aren't giving me the same wonderful answers about programming, and can signal that they did before I agreed to the R&R.

Who do you guys use for refurbing the actuators? Maybe I need a better shop to do it (autoecu.com)



And I already had it in mind that I had to drop the engine, you big ol Debbie downers. I'm just throwing some hail mary's at it. Let me live!

If you have to end up having to pull the engine, thoroughly inspect everything and replace whatever looks sketchy. I'd recommend doing the glow plugs and fuel hoses to/from the tandem/fuel pumps at the very least. Also check the coupling between the AC compressor and the power steering pump. If it's starting to get rattly like ours, replace it.

very good advice if the engine does get dropped!!!

I think I got it...

This is the original actuator that I got the autoecu shop to "rebuild". They don't work on the G145 actuator but that was after they already had my money. So two tries on the other actuator (possible bank 1), and one try on this one that gives off P1952 defective. Code won't stay gone and it wasn't working last night. Woke up this morning and I was about to send the actuator to Toronto for $400, but I had some new ideas to try out. Another clubtouareg thread mentioned throwing n19 valves, didn't make sense to change EGR valves, but I did it a couple weeks ago. Didn't do anything.

-I swapped the MAP sensors left and right. Moved the linkage rod a million times with kroil. It made its way through the travel but had an ever so slight stick at the vane close or (up) position.

-cleared fault code 18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective

-Finagled the laptop to sit next to me as I watched the actuator. Did the output test (VCDS>engine>engine other>basic settings>on/off while looking at the actuator. The arm was moving the vanes opened and closed as it was supposed to. I expected that.

-Cleared fault code

-I noticed on the output test normally bank 1 would not build more boost than 1000mbar while bank 2 would reach about 1100mbar at 1400rpms.

- on/off for about 2 minutes, then I noticed that boost was building on bank1, each interval it was gaining till it was matching the 1100mbar at 1400rpms!!

-No more code, didn't return.

-Test drive
I made a full boost run on the street. It's working!! The code came back 1 mile away from the house, cleared it and stayed out of limp mode for a while longer.

-Going to buy two new map sensors, and move that linkage a million more times.

I'll keep you guys updated, had to leave for work in the B4.

Sounds like you're making progress!

Now It's popped up a different issue. It's not getting full boost anymore, it drives not in limp mode but with low power. I could probably drive it like this, but I couldn't tow it for sure.
Codes
I got the EGR code 16786 for excessive flow and MAF G70 implausible signal. EGR code never came back after clearing it, but the MAF did a couple times.

Took the MAF's off and there was a good amount of dust. I sprayed it but it didn't seem to help so I bought a new Bosch Unit for the engine 1 (right bank).

Logs
-Here are some logs. I'm really rusty on MAF troubleshooting but after reading MAF 101 (10 years later), if the vehicle runs better with the MAF unplugged, that points to a dead or dieing MAF. But I just replaced it. code it showing engine 1. Do you think the engine 2 could be the issue but the other MAF is what throws the code and underperforms?

Boost
Boost log during the MAF runs was showing lack of boost on engine 1. During basic settings output test, for some reason, now engine 2 is underperforming and engine 1 is now performing well.

I need to fix the tiptronic strip, so I couldn't hold it in gear very long.

MAF isn't throwing a code with this logging. Any ideas? (during this run). turbo actuator hasn't thrown its code since the last "fix"
N18 are new, MAP sensors are new, and now MAF on bank 1 is new.

MAF logging with new Bosch unit installed.



MAF unplugged


MAF unplugged boost log (I should have done a run with the MAF in too)

Always seems to get fixed as soon as I ask for help. Guess I should post as soon as possible.
Changed out the other MAF And we seem to be good to go.

Just did my work commute and I'm ready for towing.

-air suspension fixed with new module
-aspherical mirrors installed
-drop hitch installed
-rear dog net from cayenne installed

-looking for another teak interior, passed on two since I was unsure of the turbo situation.
Need to set readiness and get this smogged!

Nice work!

kooyajerms said:

-looking for another teak interior, passed on two since I was unsure of the turbo situation.

Click to expand...

There is a set in Tennessee I think.

Nash_TDI said:

There is a set in Tennessee I think.

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The two sets were local in California.
I bet Luke got one of them!
Two off road greys even and I need a few body parts and that middle seatbelt. Oh well no big deal.

Fixed my issues with the tiptronic using this thread http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/t1-shift-handle-removal-171898.html

Magnet had broken off the slat. Installed my $85 8E1713187F shifter cover strip with ease.

The Shasta will be happy! Thanks to the Touareg veterans.

Now onto

-a grinding right mirror folding motor.
-replacement middle seat belts (expensive from part outs!
- use some eBay decals on the wonderful peeling buttons throughout the cabin. That stuff is trash!
-headlight polishing
-driverside doorswitch gremlins.

Bleh, did some hard runs now that I have tiptronic but it seems as if the vanes are still sticky. The module code came back again.

What's the best way to burn up the soot if you can't keep a car redlined and have no EGT sensor? I'm Not used to these automatic shenanigans.

Spoke with Temporaptor and Digital Corpus, and we were going to try to do it in idle but without an EGT gauge, we said no go.

3rd gear only lasts a couple seconds at WOT (when I have moved the arm manually for 10 minutes beforehand) so you just see me on the hwy going 50-65 mph multiple times. With traffic, slowing traffic, with traffic, slowing traffic. Is that better than just sitting in 3rd at 4500rpm constantly for 10 minutes?

I need me some clean Vanes. 1 week to camping!

(P.S. the difference now is I can clear the code and it drives in a low power mode where 003 MAF reads high but not max, 011 reads high but not max. So it's not totally limp and not totally melt your face v10). I'll go manually move the arm again and do more basic setting output tests again today when the babies are sleeping).

Also regarding movement of the vane arm. It feels extremely loose through 90% of the range, it might be just at full travel at the top or full travel at the bottom there feels like any tightness. I don't have any idea if that is even sticking of vanes at those positions, it could be me overextending the arm to force it to be tight. Just for food for thought about the sticketh of thine vanes.

If anyone's ever pulled the arm off the actuator, let me know if this is what it seemed like to you in good condition.

kooyajerms said:

Bleh, did some hard runs now that I have tiptronic but it seems as if the vanes are still sticky. The module code came back again.

What's the best way to burn up the soot if you can't keep a car redlined and have no EGT sensor? I'm Not used to these automatic shenanigans.

Spoke with Temporaptor and Digital Corpus, and we were going to try to do it in idle but without an EGT gauge, we said no go.

3rd gear only lasts a couple seconds at WOT (when I have moved the arm manually for 10 minutes beforehand) so you just see me on the hwy going 50-65 mph multiple times. With traffic, slowing traffic, with traffic, slowing traffic. Is that better than just sitting in 3rd at 4500rpm constantly for 10 minutes?

I need me some clean Vanes. 1 week to camping!

(P.S. the difference now is I can clear the code and it drives in a low power mode where 003 MAF reads high but not max, 011 reads high but not max. So it's not totally limp and not totally melt your face v10). I'll go manually move the arm again and do more basic setting output tests again today when the babies are sleeping).

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Drive up the mountain with gusto and target 2,500 - 3,500 RPMs.

Luke drives his like he stole it. I image his vanes stay pretty clean.

temporaptor was the PO. There's no doubt he didn't drive it the same. This thing has a tune so it is creating some smoke on WOT.

My theory is the gearing doesn't allow for the vanes to stay clean if theres too much commuting. It changes gears too quickly (because vroom vroom) and holding it in place isn't as simple as if we were in a manual. plain Italian tune ups aren't enough. Gotta keep that thing hot for a longer period of time. A couple months of commuting in Los Angeles and I'm guessing it needs a specific long ass thrashing to get it to clear out.


took it up this hwy hill for about 30 minutes up and down to get the oil temps up to 240*F. Probably about 4 runs up each way.

-Drove up WOT 3rd and 4th from 50-80mph. slow down speed up slow down speed up. Just to try to get some high load high boost together. Only way to build that EGT up.
-Mixed in 3rd gear holds at 4400rpms as best I could to keep the heat in there.
-did a million output test before and after.


I'm sure a good towing will do the best job of cleaning it up. Got a bad towing control module I need to replace. Hope it gets here in time!


Do you guys notice boost being slightly different from left bank to right bank when measuring block 011 engine other? I'd assume its impossible to make both engines run perfectly in sync with the other. Maybe a couple psi either way.


replaced the strut for the Ebrake, no need to pull that damn pedal up with the top of my foot.

Boost between the two engines should match pretty closely. If you're getting significant lag or variation between the two, you need to address it. I'm not convinced that thrashing the daylight out of it is going to fix your problems.

ill show you the logs when I get home. I know it's only a couple psi.

output test though does show a variation of 948mbar to 1040 mbar right bank (one that was causing issues) vs 948mbar to 1060mbar left bank. it can change sometimes but I'm seeing this be the standard.

during the logging, and driving home, everything is running real well. but a couple days of driving normally, and then the code came back the last go around (2 weeks ago). Haven't gotten the code to come back with this "vane cleaning" a day later.

kooyajerms said:

ill show you the logs when I get home. I know it's only a couple psi.

output test though does show a variation of 948mbar to 1040 mbar right bank (one that was causing issues) vs 948mbar to 1060mbar left bank. it can change sometimes but I'm seeing this be the standard.

during the logging, and driving home, everything is running real well. but a couple days of driving normally, and then the code came back the last go around (2 weeks ago). Haven't gotten the code to come back with this "vane cleaning" a day later.

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Over time, soot buildup inside of the turbocharger can cause wear to the VNT mechanism. This wear can cause it to bind more easily as the vehicle ages. If this problem proves to be persistent in your situation, you might be looking at some major engine work to correct it.

I think you can see similar examples of this with ALH engines and worn VNT mechanisms causing sticking even after a thorough disassembly and cleaning. Given the amount of work involved if you have to disassemble the V10's turbos, you might as well just go ahead and replace them.

off topic, which brake setup do you and Jason like?

Zimmermans and Hawk LTS or Zimmermans and the Pagid/TRW/dustmachines? (wasn't a fan of Alretta after some emails)

Rotors turned once or rotors and pads always?

THats a good point about the vane ring. Haven't even thought of what a worn vane ring, and the actuator arm inside the housing could look like.

kooyajerms said:

Rotors turned once or rotors and pads always?

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There's only 2mm wear on rotors before they're undersize so you can't turn them.

Some people do get 2 sets of pads to one set of rotors, but most, possibly all, won't if the rotors are to stay in service limits during the life of the second set of pads.

kooyajerms said:

off topic, which brake setup do you and Jason like?

Zimmermans and Hawk LTS or Zimmermans and the Pagid/TRW/dustmachines? (wasn't a fan of Alretta after some emails)

Rotors turned once or rotors and pads always?

Click to expand...

We haven't found a combination that we really like yet. Front brake dust is definitely a problem and the pads seem to be so thin that they heat soak quickly. Still burning through some brake parts that the previous owner had in his garage.

I ran through several sets over the past 10 years and finally found that dealer Oem rotors and Brembo front pads (I think they are a Ferrari part as only fronts are available and they don't have applications for any other Touareg brakes) and I'll have to look at what I used for pads in the rear. No noise, little if any dust(I keep my cars really clean) and stops better that any other set I have used.