2001 tdi jetta with ABS light and flashing brake light

2001 tdi jetta with ABS light and flashing brake light help plz

Hello all,
The Abs light has been on for over a year on the car. I actually don't like abs brakes so it was a plus they didn't work. Over the past 2-3 months randomly the e brake light will flash and chime 3 times when the light starts flashing. Sometimes the e brake light will be on when I 1st start the car and other times it will randomly come on after 15-20 minutes driving.
Never noticed any issues until tonight. When i braked firmly it braked good for about 3 seconds then the pedal rumbled like the abs was on for a split second then the pedal goes towards the floor and it does not break
Did this a couple times.
In trying to solve the brake light issue before i really had an issue like tonight I found searching on here lots of times the fuses on top of the battery or the grounds under the battery were often the culprit of these lights. Had them all apart and cleaned last week and there was no corrosion to start with. Checked the pads/calipers/rotors and fronts were wore a little on the inside from a sticky caliper, but lubed up the sliders and seems ok now.
I'm thinking my real brake issue must be either the ABS module which is near the firewall right ? or else its the master cylinder ?
Anyone ever experienced the break pedal issue like i had today ? If so what was the problem ?
Thanks

Make sure the fluid is up to level in the reservoir.

Also, looking at the fuse panel on top of the battery case, the right two green 30amp fuses go to the ABS system. The left green 30amp fuse is for the two fans out front.

Lastly, you probably should flush the brake fluid system. If you have the proper tools and a power bleeder, it is a pretty simple procedure.

Yup checked the fluid and it is full. I had the fuses out last week and they looked like new and no corrosion in site.

This morning i started it and the ABS light was on as usual(no e brake this time) then after 30 seconds the ABS light went off. First time this happened in over a year. Then about 10 minutes into the drive it came back on and the e brake followed about 5 minutes after. 3 chimes then flashing.

I never really have to use the brakes all that much as I slow down as much as possible downshifting(within reason of course), but the pedal didn't studder and fade on me like last night.

So old fluid could cause this ?

I can honestly say i have never flushed out brake fluid on any of the 20+ vehicules i have owned other than if i was changing a component where the fluid was drained out.

What shape are the pads in? If I remember correctly there is a wire that is wired into the pad to indicate when the car needs new pads, once the wire is exsposed it triggers the brake light to come on. You could have a short in the wire causing the light to be on. Not sure if this would cause your other issue.

The inside pad in the front is worn some. Must be only in the front pads ? as my back ones a couple years ago were on steel and no light and don't recall seeing any wires going in. Will check that out again, but i don't see how that would cause the pedal to studder briefly then go to the floor and stop braking.

Just came across this interesting info. In canada the 01-02's had a recall for the ABS unit. Going to call the dealer and see if mine was ever done.

http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur...t=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2002028&cf=SearchResult&pg=-1

The pad wear indicator is not the BRAKE light flashing. There is a symbol that looks similar to a rotor and pads that lights up when the wear on one of the front pads exposes the sensor (only one of four pads in your case).

If i recall correctly there is a round circle in the cluster that is suppose to light up when the pads are low.

This is definately the red brake light that chimes 3 times and starts flashing, but its always accompanied first by the solid ABS light.

Will call VW to see if the recall was done. I was on hold earlier.

I think i just nailed my turbo issues after changing out a new crap $500 chinese one in 16,000km with another oem one. Now the brake issue. Like i said if it was just no abs fine, but the pedal fade has me worried. Noway i will let the wife drive it till i get this fixed.

Crap recall was done back in 2002 and a new module is $1,050 plus tax.

Ya right i can buy a turn key 99-03 tdi in the area for $2-3k

Junk yard has one for $150 but he said there are 2 models. Can you just swap these modules out or do they need to be programmed ?

And does it have to be from a tdi or is a gasser the same ?

Getting it on a vag com tomorrow hopefully.

Definitely use VCDS (new name for Vag-com) to check for any codes.

The reference by the junkyard to "two models" is that early cars used the Mark20 pumps, the later cars used the Mark60. Changeover was made in 2001. My 2001 TDI was built in Jan 01 and has a MK60. The Bentley manual shows how to visually identify the two versions. If I remember correctly, when you use VCDS to view the ABS controller, it'll list if it's a MK20 or MK60.

VCDS will also show the part number of the ABS controller. The ABS pump (round motor on top) has one part number on it (you can usually see that with it in the car). The ABS controller (black plastic box on the bottom of the pump) has it's own, different, part number (can't see that with it in the car).

My roommates gasser Golf threw a code for a faulty ABS controller. I removed and re-installed the connector to make sure it wasn't just a bad electrical connection. The code came right back, so I went to eBay and bought an ABS pump for $50.

ABS pumps should be interchangeable within the two versions. So first, determine if you have a MK20 or MK60 pump.

Note that some pumps are ABS only, some are ABS plus ASR (traction control) and some are ABS plus ASR plus ESP (electronic stability). This info will be written on the bottom of the controller (black plastic box on the bottom of the pump) or you can reference the part number to see if it contains those additional features.

You want to get a pump with the same set of features as the one currently on the car. For example, if you have ESP, get an ESP-equipped pump. When I did my roommates pump, I found one with the exact same part number so as to eliminate any possibility of incompatibility.

It doesn't matter if the used pump was on a gasser or TDI. After installation, you use VCDS to code the controller. Basically, you tell the controller which engine you have so it knows how to interface with the engine's ECU.

Thanks for the info.

I pulled the 2 fuses ontop of the battery last night. I seem to have a more firm brake pedal now. At least it did not fade and go to the floor. That was no fun.

Will get it scanned as soon as i can.