DIY Headlight Restoration How To Guide

hotroddr

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Location
Mesa, AZ
TDI
2002 Jetta
Here is the procedure I have used on a couple of cars now to restore the headlights to like new condition. I have tried polishing, sanding then polishing, and acetone and even though these other techniques can work, they do not last long. Once the clear coat has work off of the plastic, the headlights will quickly yellow again after restoration unless the clearcoat is restored. This procedure took me maybe 40 minutes to restore my headlights to new.

These headlights started off as bad as I have ever seen a set of headlights.




I started by wet sanding the headlights with 500 grit sandpaper till all the yellow was gone. You may have to sand for a while to get through all the affected plastic. At this point they are a dull white and look like they will never be clear again. Dont worry, this is part of the process. Then I cleaned them with brake cleaner, you could use an automotive paint prep solvent to remove grease, fingerprints, wax etc. The point is you want to remove anything that will keep the paint from sticking. Make sure the solvent is completely dry and there is no lint or dust on the headlight.


I then masked the surrounding area and sprayed with clear paint. I used duplicolor clear engine enamel, any clear automotive paint should be fine. Typical painting procedure should be used here. First spray a light tack coat, then follow up with another coat after the tack coat has set for a while. The final coat should be thick enough to look smooth but not so thick that it runs.


They look as good as new now. I have done this on a couple cars now and it has not chipped or yellowed in any way.
 

02DslPwr

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Location
Leander Texas
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI
I've refinished a few sets of lights using the 3M kit, but I never though of doing a coat off clear on top to seal in the new finish. Has anyone else ever thrown a little clear coat on there? There's no need to finish the clear? As in a little wet sanding and polishing?
 

CDG

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Location
Katy, Tx
TDI
2011 JSW
I'm a noob, but you rid the headlights of the haziness just by applying the clearcoat?
 

hotroddr

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Location
Mesa, AZ
TDI
2002 Jetta
There is no need to polish or hit the headlight with any finer sandpaper than 500 grit as the paint needs a rough surface to adhere to. The paint fills in all sand scratches and the headlight becomes clear again once painted.
 

740GLE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
NH
TDI
2015 Passat SEL, 2017 Alltrack SE; BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat,
interesting
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
This works great! I have tried the 2 different headlight refinishing kits. One was in a little plastic tub package and the other was the 3M one with the drill attachment. Both worked OK, but they both had yellow come back after a few months and were a real pain in the ass.
Today, I did this and it was so fast and easy. $11 bucks for the sand paper and the clear coat ($22 for the 3M kit). I just did the drivers side, as I want to do a quick video of the other side. I'll try to get it done tomorrow. I drove around tonight and was floored by the extra light on the drivers side. I could actually make out definition of the headlight beam on the side of the road!
here's a pic of the difference so far.



I used 600 grit and this clear coat by duplicolor
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
We'll see. I would advise using a whole range of sandpaper. On the next one I try, I want to start with something around the 2-300 range, then the 500 and then go to like 1500. I did a 1500 on my wife's and it really made a diffeence. I wasn't able to get some of the clouding out which might actually be some of the old factory UV protectant. I think a 2-300 grit would dig a little deeper to get rid of that haze. I will edit my video if needed. So far, so good!!
 
Last edited:

Farfromovin

Torque Addict
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Location
Ventura, CA
TDI
03 Golf 2dr- PD150 6m
You know, I've had to re-polish my headlights every year or so after sanding them. They look great, but I'm thinking spraying clear makes a lot of sense now. Why didn't I think of it earlier? Good idea!

Mikey- great video!
 

rarmstrong

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Location
Charlotte
TDI
2004 Passat TDI
Mikey, thanks this is JUST what I needed...will be doing this on Saturday! Dealer wamts $100bucks for this job. Looks like I can do it in about $30 with your video. TDI Club forum rocks.
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
Rob~
Thanks for the comment. I think the video came out alright. I wish I would have spent a bit more time on the sound, but whatever. I would recommend to you that you start with 320, go to 600, then 1500. Use soapy water and even try soaking the paper for a few minutes before sanding. I have done about 6 cars now and have found these to be improvements over the video. I have also tried doing 3 coats of clear and the results seem pretty good. No clouding after 3. So, more protection and no negatives.

Thanks again for the comment.
Mikey141414
 

K5ING

Mega-Miler
Joined
Apr 18, 2001
Location
Krum, TX
TDI
Silver 2001 Golf GL TDI 5-speed
I'm a noob too, at least when it comes to paints and painting. Does that clear coat have UV protection that will keep the plastic from yellowing again?

Also, from the minimal research I've been doing, most clear coats are intended for use on metal surfaces, or at least on top of paint. Since this is going directly onto the bare plastic, is there any chance that it might react chemically with the plastic in a negative way? I have nightmares of watching a Styrofoam carving I made as a kid melt away before my eyes when I used the wrong paint on it. :eek:
 
Last edited:

rarmstrong

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Location
Charlotte
TDI
2004 Passat TDI
Yes, after you spray will they ever need sanding again? Because with all that paint residue I can only imagine the stickiness and the tackiness and what a PITA it would be to do it again...I now have clean headlights...one looks perfect and the other is ok...just curious if I should spray with CC. Thanks!
 

securityguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Location
Virginia
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI Sedan
Mikey - I agree with your assessment on using different grades of sand paper. I believe that a 400 grit to start (don't need anything heavier).....then moving up to a 1000 and then doing a final sand with 2000 will yield the best results. You will have minimal scratching when completed and less crevaces for the clear coat to fill.

rarmstrong - yes, definately use a clear coat! All professional kits come with a brush on type clearcoat and if you do ever need to refinish, the 400 grit paper will take it off with ease.

Great job and thanks for sharing!
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
Sure thing securityguy. I used 320 which might have been a bit to heavy, but it definitely makes quick work of getting rid of all that yellow! The finer paper takes care of any scratches left behind. Maybe next time I will try the 400 and see what results I get.

Clearcoat is a for sure thing. I had tried other kits that just sand and then polish with a cream or buff out. They never last long. The CC is the key to a long term relationship with clear headlights.
 

NB_TDi

Vendor
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Location
NB, Canada █♣█
TDI
2014 Jetta SE
I will be trying this next week. Does anyone have any information on trying it with higher rating sandpaper? I plan on going from about 600 to 1500+ and using clear coat. I'm also wondering if I should do this as a prophylactic to my 2005 as the lights are in great shape.

Thoughts?
 

mech644

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Location
Blue Hill, Maine
TDI
'00 Golf, '14 Touareg
1st time I did mine I started with 600g and it took forever to get rid of the oxidation/yellow/pits, switched to 320 on the 2nd HL and it made a world of difference, reduced time by half. I went 320-400-600-1000-2000-then 3M Finesse It- then 3M Swirl Remover. Probably way overkill on succession of grits, but result was very nice. Didn't use CC though and I'm now faced with doing them again.
 

That Guy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
TDI
2001 MKiv Golf TDI
After the lights are polished up...or if they are new....I would recommend putting some of that rock guard film on them. (There's special stuff for headlights.)

I got mine done when I bought the car. Now it's as simple as pulling off the old film and putting on the new to get it back to looking like new. Takes a few years to get oxidized/yellow just like the normal lens would.

(The film can also be polished up....but replacing the film looks much better.)
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
As I stated in earlier posts, I have been using 320-600-1500-alcohol-CC. I am really happy with the results. For plastic that isn't very bad/yellow. I might start with the 600 and skip the 320. But for bad lights, 320 is great to cut through the mess.
 

Trawlercap

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Location
Oregon/Mexico/Alaska
TDI
03' Jetta
Mikey, thanks so much! I am gathering the supplies to do this myself. This is another one of those tips that make this such a great group of people!

I vote to have this put up as a sticky! It needs to go to the "how to" list. Thanks again!
 

quatr4

Banned
Joined
Apr 17, 2010
Location
michigan
TDI
none
It is abrasive techniques such as the one being promoted here that is the cause of 90% of Acrylic headlight lens surface damage.
A headlight that is in the condition displayed have been cleaned before and show obvious evidence of surface damage.
This damage is virtually invisible during the cleaning process but that is where it comes from.
Removing headlight oxidation does not require sandpaper of any kind.
One person even suggested that the use of a 400 grit as a final application before sealing.
That's insane.
You really gave to be careful with the free information you get online.
Sealers are not UV layers
Clear coat over plastic is like paint over an unprimed surface.
Its not going to stick.
All headlights do not have the type of damage showed in the illustration. Most headlights are not damaged at all.
A deoxidizer would clear them up without the damage.
I would suggest anyone to use the search engines like, google. yahoo,aol etc to find what headlight cleaning options are available.
Don 't make the mistake of destroying your headlight with 400 grit sandpaper just because it's got oxidation on it.
Don't resurface a headlight that needs to be deoxidized.
UV layers cannot be replaced with an aftermarket sealer, Uv layers are bonded on not sprayed on.
Generally sealers offer no UV protection.
They will crack, peel, turn yellow.
Now you need a new headlight.
Unless someone has used an abrasive cleaning kit on your headlights, you don't need any abrasives to retain and maintain the clarity of your acrylic headlight lens.
 

NB_TDi

Vendor
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Location
NB, Canada █♣█
TDI
2014 Jetta SE
It is abrasive techniques such as the one being promoted here that is the cause of 90% of Acrylic headlight lens surface damage.
A headlight that is in the condition displayed have been cleaned before and show obvious evidence of surface damage.
This damage is virtually invisible during the cleaning process but that is where it comes from.
Removing headlight oxidation does not require sandpaper of any kind.
One person even suggested that the use of a 400 grit as a final application before sealing.
That's insane.
You really gave to be careful with the free information you get online.
Sealers are not UV layers
Clear coat over plastic is like paint over an unprimed surface.
Its not going to stick.
All headlights do not have the type of damage showed in the illustration. Most headlights are not damaged at all.
A deoxidizer would clear them up without the damage.
I would suggest anyone to use the search engines like, google. yahoo,aol etc to find what headlight cleaning options are available.
Don 't make the mistake of destroying your headlight with 400 grit sandpaper just because it's got oxidation on it.
Don't resurface a headlight that needs to be deoxidized.
UV layers cannot be replaced with an aftermarket sealer, Uv layers are bonded on not sprayed on.
Generally sealers offer no UV protection.
They will crack, peel, turn yellow.
Now you need a new headlight.
Unless someone has used an abrasive cleaning kit on your headlights, you don't need any abrasives to retain and maintain the clarity of your acrylic headlight lens.
Besides the obvious grammatical errors; you clearly don't keep an ear to the ground. Plenty of people are completing this and have no further issues. Just because you say it, doesn't make it fact. :rolleyes:
 

mikey141414

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
TDI
N/A 2015 Nissan Rogue, 2017 Sonata Plug in Hybrid
I agree that there are probably 20 different ways to make a headlight crystal clear again.
I do like the idea of just rubbing deoxidizer on the headlight.
Looks a lot easier than sanding.
Time will tell how long the headlights last with the process outlined in this thread.
Truth is, after 10 years of driving and 250,000 miles, both of my Jettas have been abrasively treated by sand, rocks, bird poop, etc.
I don't think this method would be appropriate for a 2010 Jetta, but for my old cars, it is fine.
I can't say that I am impressed with quatr4's attitude in his/her post.
By slamming fellow TDIers, (oh wait, you don't seem to have a TDI), you have created a tension that is unnecessary on these forums.
I notice that most of your posts(28 in total) are aimed at headlight refinishing techniques.
Perhaps you have a vested interest in headlight polishing, or just like stirring up the pot?
Either way, there are better ways of getting your point across than to say that people's ideas are "insane" or that we are "destroying" our headlights.
Please take this criticism with the utmost respect and continue to offer "constructive" ideas on the forums.
If not, go to VW Vortex. They love that stuff there....
 
Top