kyle_h
Veteran Member
Major fire risk if trying to regen over 44g just saying
Sent from my iPhone using the Tapatalk app, so that explains the typos...
Sent from my iPhone using the Tapatalk app, so that explains the typos...
2010 Jetta - DPF Excessive Soot Acumulation
- Thread starter TurboABA
- Start date
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
We are well aware.... thanks
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
There are at least three ways that you can get the values down, one has been mentioned, but there are two other ways that it can be done, without resetting the ash level. If anyone would like me to, just let me know and I can write out the steps of how to do each one. The better of the two ways should take the average home mechanic about an hour to do it, which may not be worth anyone's time (I really didn't want to reset the ash value, assuming that it may, in addition to other things, have a negative effect on fuel economy, so it was worth the time to me).
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
OK, let's hear it
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
I won't bother unless someone plans on doing it...it will probably take me about as long to type everything up as it will for someone to actually do the work
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
Obviously, I wanted to know... thanks for the useless post in warning us that you found a better way that you're not willing to share with the rest of us! I wish I knew this before I wasted my time responding to your PMs to help you!
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
First of all, let me say thank you again for the PM, I really do appreciate it! However, after you guys told me how you did (there were two of you that sent me a PM) it I found another way to do it, which will not help if you've already told the computer that there is a new DPF. It seems like you are assuming that this way of doing it will help if the ash level has already been reset, which it will not. Since you've already reset yours, this method won't help at all. Your way is much faster (under 5 minutes) and I thought that it may not be worth it to anyone to spend an hour (or maybe even more) working on their car simply to avoid resetting the ash level, in which case, I certainly wasn't going to spend an hour typing up the steps that no one is going to use. I just posted it in case someone in the future wants to do it.
thecause17
Veteran Member
Here's my view on this, you can take it or leave it. I'm not trying to offend you so don't take it that way. This is a community forum which among other things is here to help those with problems. If people had to seek out a person specifically so solve a problem every time, rather than use a search function to find a previously discussed problem that there's a solution to, this forum wouldn't be nearly as helpful as it is. Posts are stored, stickies are made, and how-to threads are posted for a reason, to help people here. If you have a solution you're not willing to provide to the entire community, then I would suggest not offering it on any terms at all. Just posting you know something and not being openly willing to share it isn't worth the band width the post takes up. There is obviously a need for it or threads like this wouldn't exist. Like I said, take it or leave it, if you're offended so be it, but it's not my intention.
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
So here are a couple of ways to lower the calculated soot and the measured soot levels without having to reset the ash level. For most, the second option will be best, unless you live in a place that suites the first better.
Let me say first that I don't recommend doing this, seeing that there is a possibility of doing great damage to you're car, as well as to yourself! If you've decided to take the risk, as others have said on this thread, at least take a fire extinguisher and a bunch of water in case something goes wrong! Also, I would recommend doing option 1 as best as you are able to get the DPF as clean as possible before doing option 2.
Option 1.
The first way to lower the numbers is to load the car with a bunch of weight (e.g. 1000lbs), and find a long, steep hill where you can drive 65+mph. Alternatively, you could drive on the interstate 'til you find a broken down 18-wheeler and give him a tow to the nearest garage Whatever you need to do to get the EGTs up really high.
I haven't actually succeeded doing this, but I am quite sure it will work (that is, if it is long and steep enough) After the calculated soot level had gotten above 45 in our 2010 JSW AT, I thought if I could get the EGTs high enough I could get the numbers to come down. So I put around 900lbs. of steel in back and drove to a place where there was a very steep grade and still had a speed limit of 65 mph. The problem was that the grade only went for a few miles (maybe 5 or 6). The temperatures got hot enough to lower the levels, but the numbers would go back up on the trip back down (I suppose that if it wasn't interstate, I could have just coasted back down with the engine off, but that wasn't the best idea with traffic going as fast as they were) After a number of times going up and down I was able to get the measured levels down to 0.0 since the levels didn't raise as high on the trip down as they lowered on the trip back up, but after all the trips the calculated soot level only ever came down one step to 49.8 (BTW the numbers jump in 0.3 increments) and even then it wouldn't be for very long. If I would have kept driving another 50 miles or so I may have been able to get to a grade that would have worked, but I was already a long ways from home. (FYI the grade was between Phoenix and Flagstaff; some pretty good grades there!) If you're still skeptical as to whether or not it would work, option two should persuade you.
Option 2.
The second way that you can get the numbers down, is to trick the computer into thinking that the EGTs are very high, which it will then think that the DPF is being cleaned. This can be done a couple of ways. One is to remove all three of the the temperature sensors that are used in computing the soot (the one prior to the turbo, the one before the DPF, and the one after the DPF) and heat them up with a torch or something similar. At least one, if not two of these are a bit hard to get to, but if you want to stay away from electrical that's the way to go. (though it would be pretty hard if not impossible to get all of the sensors close enough to use one torch, in which case you'd have to have a number of people working on it to do it this way, but it could be done)
However, a much easier way to trick the computer is to use something that will simulate the temperature sensor and "raise" the temperature that way. With our Jetta, the sensors are thermistors (sensors whose resistance changes in proportion to temperature), and therefore are easily simulated with a potentiometer. There is a different type of sensor that is commonly used for measuring temperature, namely a thermocouple, but I have no idea if VW ever used this type on any of the exhaust lines or not. There is a way to simulate those as well with out too much difficulty, but it's definitely not as easy as a thermistor. If you do find a VW that has thermocouples and not thermistors, just google how to simulate a thermocouple (or you can just ask on this thread) and there should be plenty of websites that will tell you how to do it. The way to tell which you have is to get a multimeter and test for millivolts across the two leads of the temperature sensor(make sure it's the leads going to the sensor and not to the ECM). (read below to find out where you can access) If there is no voltage that is read between the two leads (or less than 2mV) then you probably have a thermistor. To make sure, you can set your multimeter to resistance and measure across the sensor leads and you should get certain resistance (I think it's around 100-300 ohms) when the temperature is around 80F(the exhaust should be around air temperature until this point). Now, start the car for about 15 seconds and test the resistance again. If it went up, you very likely have a thermistor. If you are getting much of a voltage across the leads, then you very well may have a thermocouple.
To simulate the thermistors:
You'll need:
VCDS
A hammer
A utility knife
At least 2 feet of 16 guage insulated solid copper wire (could be 14 or 12guage and longer is desirable)
At least 6 feet of any size of insulated stranded copper wire (though more is desirable)
(6) yellow or red wire nuts
(3) 5K ohm potentiometers (like this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102789 )
Optional: soldering iron, solder and flux
1. Cut the solid wire into 4" pieces (if you have more wire, feel free to go longer), then put the wires on the floor and take the hammer and flatten one end of each of the wires. This will make it like a spade so that you can insert it into the connector. Next, strip back both ends of the wire about 1/4"
2. Cut the stranded wire into 1' pieces (again, go longer if you can) and then strip back both ends 1/4"
3. Take two of the stranded wires and solder them onto the potentiometer. One will go on the middle lead of the potentiometer, and the other will go on one of the outer leads (doesn't matter which side, just do all three potentiometers the same). (If you don't have a soldering iron, you can improvise; maybe just wrap the wire around the leads and then hold them in place with electrical tape) Do this step for all three pots.
4. On the free end of the stranded wires, use the wire nuts and connect one of the solid wires to the end of each stranded wire.
5. Turn the shafts on all three pots to the center (doesn't have to be exact)
6. Take the two wires from one of the pots. and stick the spades that you made with the hammer into the two female recepticals for the sensor connector, making sure that the copper part of the wires don't touch each other there at the connector or anywhere else(it doesn't matter which spade goes into which hole; just make sure that one pot is connected to one connector, i.e. don't put one wire from a pot into a connector and then the other wire from the same pot into a different connctor)
7. You now have the sensors simulated! Open VCDS and check the temperatures in MVB 99.2, 99.3, 99.4. You can change the temperature that is being read by turning the shaft on the potentiometer (which side of the pot that you put the wire will determine which way you have to turn the pot shaft to increase or decrease the temperature) Just don't go down too low on the temp. as it will short the signal (though I don't think it will actually damage anything)
8. Once you have the temperature reading on all three boxes in MVB 99 start the car and raise the RPM to 1500 (I'm not even sure if you have to have the car running, but I know it works this way). With the engine around 1500 RPM, turn the pots until the temperature reaches 700C before the turbo, and 850C before and after the DPF. You should start to see the soot levels drop. The measured soot level should drop faster than the calculated level. I would only get the levels down to where you can do an emergency regen. i.e. <45.0 (keep in mind that you will have to get to a road where you can drive at least 45mph and therefore will need the levels down low enough to make it that far; probably <43.0 will be fine for most people). Once the levels have gotten low enough(probably about 5-10 min.), you can turn the pots down to ambient temperature and then turn the car off. Note: the fans will probably continue to run for a while at high speed after the car is off, thinking that the EGTs were extremely hot.
The place where you can tap into the sensors (at least on the 2010 JSW) is on the driver side of the firewall. There are a number of connectors on a bracket there, and you can just unplug them one at a time while looking at VCDS MVB 99; when one of the temperature sensors are unplugged, it should read its maximum temperature, which I think was some where between 900-1000C. If I remember correctly, one of them is kind of hidden behind the bracket and is a little hard to get to, but if you look at it closely, you can pinch the tabs that hold it into the bracket and then get the connector out to the place where you can disconnect it. When you test the sensor for voltage/resistance check it at this place on the male side of the connector. When you insert the spades that you made with the hammer, you need to insert them into the female side.
Also, you may want to read this to help with VCDS http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration
If I made any typos, or if any of it seems like Greek to you, just let me know.
Let me say first that I don't recommend doing this, seeing that there is a possibility of doing great damage to you're car, as well as to yourself! If you've decided to take the risk, as others have said on this thread, at least take a fire extinguisher and a bunch of water in case something goes wrong! Also, I would recommend doing option 1 as best as you are able to get the DPF as clean as possible before doing option 2.
Option 1.
The first way to lower the numbers is to load the car with a bunch of weight (e.g. 1000lbs), and find a long, steep hill where you can drive 65+mph. Alternatively, you could drive on the interstate 'til you find a broken down 18-wheeler and give him a tow to the nearest garage
Whatever you need to do to get the EGTs up really high. I haven't actually succeeded doing this, but I am quite sure it will work
(that is, if it is long and steep enough) After the calculated soot level had gotten above 45 in our 2010 JSW AT, I thought if I could get the EGTs high enough I could get the numbers to come down. So I put around 900lbs. of steel in back and drove to a place where there was a very steep grade and still had a speed limit of 65 mph. The problem was that the grade only went for a few miles (maybe 5 or 6). The temperatures got hot enough to lower the levels, but the numbers would go back up on the trip back down (I suppose that if it wasn't interstate, I could have just coasted back down with the engine off, but that wasn't the best idea with traffic going as fast as they were) After a number of times going up and down I was able to get the measured levels down to 0.0 since the levels didn't raise as high on the trip down as they lowered on the trip back up, but after all the trips the calculated soot level only ever came down one step to 49.8 (BTW the numbers jump in 0.3 increments) and even then it wouldn't be for very long. If I would have kept driving another 50 miles or so I may have been able to get to a grade that would have worked, but I was already a long ways from home. (FYI the grade was between Phoenix and Flagstaff; some pretty good grades there!) If you're still skeptical as to whether or not it would work, option two should persuade you.Option 2.
The second way that you can get the numbers down, is to trick the computer into thinking that the EGTs are very high, which it will then think that the DPF is being cleaned. This can be done a couple of ways. One is to remove all three of the the temperature sensors that are used in computing the soot (the one prior to the turbo, the one before the DPF, and the one after the DPF) and heat them up with a torch or something similar. At least one, if not two of these are a bit hard to get to, but if you want to stay away from electrical that's the way to go. (though it would be pretty hard if not impossible to get all of the sensors close enough to use one torch, in which case you'd have to have a number of people working on it to do it this way, but it could be done)
However, a much easier way to trick the computer is to use something that will simulate the temperature sensor and "raise" the temperature that way. With our Jetta, the sensors are thermistors (sensors whose resistance changes in proportion to temperature), and therefore are easily simulated with a potentiometer. There is a different type of sensor that is commonly used for measuring temperature, namely a thermocouple, but I have no idea if VW ever used this type on any of the exhaust lines or not. There is a way to simulate those as well with out too much difficulty, but it's definitely not as easy as a thermistor. If you do find a VW that has thermocouples and not thermistors, just google how to simulate a thermocouple (or you can just ask on this thread) and there should be plenty of websites that will tell you how to do it. The way to tell which you have is to get a multimeter and test for millivolts across the two leads of the temperature sensor(make sure it's the leads going to the sensor and not to the ECM). (read below to find out where you can access) If there is no voltage that is read between the two leads (or less than 2mV) then you probably have a thermistor. To make sure, you can set your multimeter to resistance and measure across the sensor leads and you should get certain resistance (I think it's around 100-300 ohms) when the temperature is around 80F(the exhaust should be around air temperature until this point). Now, start the car for about 15 seconds and test the resistance again. If it went up, you very likely have a thermistor. If you are getting much of a voltage across the leads, then you very well may have a thermocouple.
To simulate the thermistors:
You'll need:
VCDS
A hammer
A utility knife
At least 2 feet of 16 guage insulated solid copper wire (could be 14 or 12guage and longer is desirable)
At least 6 feet of any size of insulated stranded copper wire (though more is desirable)
(6) yellow or red wire nuts
(3) 5K ohm potentiometers (like this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102789 )
Optional: soldering iron, solder and flux
1. Cut the solid wire into 4" pieces (if you have more wire, feel free to go longer), then put the wires on the floor and take the hammer and flatten one end of each of the wires. This will make it like a spade so that you can insert it into the connector. Next, strip back both ends of the wire about 1/4"
2. Cut the stranded wire into 1' pieces (again, go longer if you can) and then strip back both ends 1/4"
3. Take two of the stranded wires and solder them onto the potentiometer. One will go on the middle lead of the potentiometer, and the other will go on one of the outer leads (doesn't matter which side, just do all three potentiometers the same). (If you don't have a soldering iron, you can improvise; maybe just wrap the wire around the leads and then hold them in place with electrical tape) Do this step for all three pots.
4. On the free end of the stranded wires, use the wire nuts and connect one of the solid wires to the end of each stranded wire.
5. Turn the shafts on all three pots to the center (doesn't have to be exact)
6. Take the two wires from one of the pots. and stick the spades that you made with the hammer into the two female recepticals for the sensor connector, making sure that the copper part of the wires don't touch each other there at the connector or anywhere else(it doesn't matter which spade goes into which hole; just make sure that one pot is connected to one connector, i.e. don't put one wire from a pot into a connector and then the other wire from the same pot into a different connctor)
7. You now have the sensors simulated! Open VCDS and check the temperatures in MVB 99.2, 99.3, 99.4. You can change the temperature that is being read by turning the shaft on the potentiometer (which side of the pot that you put the wire will determine which way you have to turn the pot shaft to increase or decrease the temperature) Just don't go down too low on the temp. as it will short the signal (though I don't think it will actually damage anything)
8. Once you have the temperature reading on all three boxes in MVB 99 start the car and raise the RPM to 1500 (I'm not even sure if you have to have the car running, but I know it works this way). With the engine around 1500 RPM, turn the pots until the temperature reaches 700C before the turbo, and 850C before and after the DPF. You should start to see the soot levels drop. The measured soot level should drop faster than the calculated level. I would only get the levels down to where you can do an emergency regen. i.e. <45.0 (keep in mind that you will have to get to a road where you can drive at least 45mph and therefore will need the levels down low enough to make it that far; probably <43.0 will be fine for most people). Once the levels have gotten low enough(probably about 5-10 min.), you can turn the pots down to ambient temperature and then turn the car off. Note: the fans will probably continue to run for a while at high speed after the car is off, thinking that the EGTs were extremely hot.
The place where you can tap into the sensors (at least on the 2010 JSW) is on the driver side of the firewall. There are a number of connectors on a bracket there, and you can just unplug them one at a time while looking at VCDS MVB 99; when one of the temperature sensors are unplugged, it should read its maximum temperature, which I think was some where between 900-1000C. If I remember correctly, one of them is kind of hidden behind the bracket and is a little hard to get to, but if you look at it closely, you can pinch the tabs that hold it into the bracket and then get the connector out to the place where you can disconnect it. When you test the sensor for voltage/resistance check it at this place on the male side of the connector. When you insert the spades that you made with the hammer, you need to insert them into the female side.
Also, you may want to read this to help with VCDS http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration
If I made any typos, or if any of it seems like Greek to you, just let me know.
Last edited:
Stutgart
Veteran Member
Jessemoc's procedure installing potentiometers to trick out the ECM is inadvisable. Granted that the idea of mimicking a thermistor is possible with a potentiometer, but what is missing is the exact resistance setting to start with, the rate of change of the resistance (how quickly to turn the pot), the end target resistance, and more.
The ECM contains an algorithm, and twisting pots as inputs to the ECM without knowing the highs, lows and rates of change that the algorithm accepts as an anticipated value is a waste of time since the program is likely to reject the data as outside the prescribed values and "throw an error code" for that input.
Plus, putting a pot on an AI (analog input) on a printed circuit with chips containing cmos risks blowing the chip which was designed by very knowledgeable folks at Robert Bosch AG who no doubt would completely agree with my criticism of the procedure.
jessemoc, your idea is just that an idea. A nimrod's idea.
The ECM contains an algorithm, and twisting pots as inputs to the ECM without knowing the highs, lows and rates of change that the algorithm accepts as an anticipated value is a waste of time since the program is likely to reject the data as outside the prescribed values and "throw an error code" for that input.
Plus, putting a pot on an AI (analog input) on a printed circuit with chips containing cmos risks blowing the chip which was designed by very knowledgeable folks at Robert Bosch AG who no doubt would completely agree with my criticism of the procedure.
jessemoc, your idea is just that an idea. A nimrod's idea.
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
For sure!
If someone follows the instructions, it will lower the values. (I wouldn't have bothered to write all that up if I didn't know for sure that it worked)
Again, if you need to do it and something doesn't quite make sense, just let me know and I should be able to clarify. (It all makes sense to me, but I do these types of electrical projects all time for work, so what's clear to me isn't always clear to others)
Last edited:
Stutgart
Veteran Member
Jessemoc, glad you take criticism well. But have you ever actually attached a potentiometer from radio shack to a Bosch ECM? I thought not.
Your idea may be doable, but until you have actually done it with the exact details revealed and the correct test rig, it is not safe to do with out harming the cmos in the ECU.
Smoke a few ECUs then post the procedure revision.
Your idea may be doable, but until you have actually done it with the exact details revealed and the correct test rig, it is not safe to do with out harming the cmos in the ECU.
Smoke a few ECUs then post the procedure revision.
DPM
Top Post Dawg
ECU inputs are protected against (and sense for) opens, and shorts to both supply and ground. They are looking for a voltage drop created by the sensor.
What's to smoke?
What's to smoke?
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
Thanks DPM!!!
If it was merely a theory, even what I thought was a really good theory, I would have presented it as such, as I did with option 1.
Stutgart
Veteran Member
Yes, a fold back circuit on the input power side. If you want to test it attach a few potentiometers with unspecified wattage and twist the pot. Hell, a faster way to is dyke the pair of wires to the sensor, slowly to draw current. If it passes the test, the ECU will still work, if not then you have introduced an unanticipated amperage to the circuit and trashed your ECU.
DPM
Top Post Dawg
Umm, what has the WATTAGE of the pot got to do with anything?
Honestly, read my post. The inputs are protected. Stop with the FUD.
Honestly, read my post. The inputs are protected. Stop with the FUD.
Stutgart
Veteran Member
If you would like to connect an unspecified wattage device to your expensive Motronic, I can only advise against it.
DPM
Top Post Dawg
I'll ask that again. What has the WATTAGE of a resistor got to do with it's effect on a circuit?
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
So anyways.... now that we've determined that "my procedure" doesn't stop the system from registering any more ash, I've been digging around trying to figure out how to adjust the total value to account for all the ash that had previously existed in the system prior to me zeroing out all the values......
I have found something, but haven't had a chance to actually perform the adjustment to see if it does anything.... hopefully soon
According to my logic, it seems that I should tell the system that I've replaced the ECM so that I can tell it how much ash was pre-existing in the system
I have found something, but haven't had a chance to actually perform the adjustment to see if it does anything.... hopefully soon
According to my logic, it seems that I should tell the system that I've replaced the ECM so that I can tell it how much ash was pre-existing in the system
meerschm
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2009
- Location
- Fairfax county VA
- TDI
- 2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
can you just save the value you think it should be? (where you saved 0 )
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
The cell that I adjusted only takes a 0 or a 1.... but apparently the ECM cell can be told existing milage in order to come up with a value
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
You may be onto something TurboABA! If I have some time later on today, I could browse around a little on VCDS on my car and see if I can find anything.
hntwhitetail
Member
Thanks for the info.
hntwhitetail
Member
I checked mine last night and the oil ash value has went up from when I regenerated everything back in June back to zero.
jessemoc
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Location
- Marco Island, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (man. trans.), 2010 Jetta Sportwagen (auto trans.)
I was unable to find anything concrete browsing around on VCDS, but I think you may be right about telling the car that you have a new ECM. If you can do that, then it looks like it may recalculate the oil ash volume. Also, VCDS seems like it references the "manual" quite a bit, so if you could get your hands on one for your model, even though it may not tell you exactly how to do it, it may be that you could get enough info to tell it what the volume should be.
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
I've got another update on my "status".
http://i58.tinypic.com/2ytnw46.jpg
The initial ~115,000 kms of long, non-grid lock commuting resulted in 69ml worth of accumulation.
The following ~10,000 kms of same condition driving are unaccounted for since regens were not happening, and whatever ash resulted from me forcing the system to regen once I replaced my sensor remains an unknown.
The following ~35,000 kms of slightly less "optimal" driving conditions resulted in an additional 9ml of accumulation.
My last ~2,000 kms of crap short commutes/daily use in stop-and-go (at times) conditions, have resulted in an additional 9ml of accumulation.
As I had mentioned before, my new commute consists of a short 11min/13km drive where the car doesn't even reach full operating temperature in the mornings, on the way to work. The return trip is much worse, as it usually results in a 25-30min commute due to traffic and grid-lock. This is compared to the prior driving pattern of 44min/53km each way, with very little traffic.
So just a heads up to all who are following the "milage vs ashloads" threads...... it's not as simple as that.... driving conditions and use patterns are much more important than milage alone.
I have see a very significant increase in both my active regens as well as my fuel consumption as a result of the above.
http://i58.tinypic.com/2ytnw46.jpg
Just I had suspected, and as I have been noticing from monitoring my SGII, my new driving routine and conditions are causing active regens at a much more accelerated rate. Here's a quick breakdown of how I've accumulated my ash volume since I've purchased the car.
The initial ~115,000 kms of long, non-grid lock commuting resulted in 69ml worth of accumulation.
The following ~10,000 kms of same condition driving are unaccounted for since regens were not happening, and whatever ash resulted from me forcing the system to regen once I replaced my sensor remains an unknown.
The following ~35,000 kms of slightly less "optimal" driving conditions resulted in an additional 9ml of accumulation.
My last ~2,000 kms of crap short commutes/daily use in stop-and-go (at times) conditions, have resulted in an additional 9ml of accumulation.
As I had mentioned before, my new commute consists of a short 11min/13km drive where the car doesn't even reach full operating temperature in the mornings, on the way to work. The return trip is much worse, as it usually results in a 25-30min commute due to traffic and grid-lock. This is compared to the prior driving pattern of 44min/53km each way, with very little traffic.
So just a heads up to all who are following the "milage vs ashloads" threads...... it's not as simple as that.... driving conditions and use patterns are much more important than milage alone.
I have see a very significant increase in both my active regens as well as my fuel consumption as a result of the above.
Little Joe
Veteran Member
Having just read this thread for the first time I can suggest a very simple way to elevate exhaust temps.
Do not attempt unless you have at lest a scanguage setup to monitor EGT and DPF temp.
Put on a winter front! block off 90% on air to IC and all to radiator just as IDparts front does. Also use or not interior coolant heater to raise/lower engine coolant temps.
Now on a 40-50F day got out on 4lane road (easiest and uninterupted)and bring car up to 120-130km in 5th and use speed as load adjust. You can easily bring steady state level road EGT up to or over 1000 as well as DPF.Monitor closely as to not overheat, but get as warm as needed for a good passive regen.
ECT will be 205+ and You can hold egt between 1000-1200 deg(and therefore DPF temp also) 30 min of this should drop soot load enough to get back into area where Max thresold lowers enough to allow computer to control regens.
Be careful to not overheat as it is easily attainable to see constant 1400F temp. Constant 1200F will not hurt anything as long as ECT are not allowed to creep too high.
Do not attempt unless you have at lest a scanguage setup to monitor EGT and DPF temp.
Put on a winter front! block off 90% on air to IC and all to radiator just as IDparts front does. Also use or not interior coolant heater to raise/lower engine coolant temps.
Now on a 40-50F day got out on 4lane road (easiest and uninterupted)and bring car up to 120-130km in 5th and use speed as load adjust. You can easily bring steady state level road EGT up to or over 1000 as well as DPF.Monitor closely as to not overheat, but get as warm as needed for a good passive regen.
ECT will be 205+ and You can hold egt between 1000-1200 deg(and therefore DPF temp also) 30 min of this should drop soot load enough to get back into area where Max thresold lowers enough to allow computer to control regens.
Be careful to not overheat as it is easily attainable to see constant 1400F temp. Constant 1200F will not hurt anything as long as ECT are not allowed to creep too high.
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
I would like to see some proof of your "theory". If you would read this post again http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4305046&postcount=20 you will see that I was unable to load the car enough to get the DPF hot enough.
The only thing one would achieve by following your advice would be to completely overheat the engine as you're restricting the airflow to it's cooling system.
thecause17
Veteran Member
+1
I wouldn't recommend blocking off airflow to the cooling system for any reason, and doing it to raise exhaust temps, well, I doubt it's going to work for that anyway. So let's just change "do not attempt unless..." to "do not attempt".