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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old September 11th, 2019, 16:22   #46
QuickTD
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Use the original cluster, it already matches the keys. Pull it apart and install the diesel guage faces and modify the eeprom in the cluster to rescale the tach. You cannot adapt "used" key transponders to a new cluster. Modifying the immo/key data is possible but it requires better tools than you have...

Delete the immo in the ECU with via OBD using vag commander and you're all done.

EDIT- And in your mystery wiring connector #2 is either for the anti shudder valve, or the CCV heater. Most likely the former since most european vehicles did not have a CCV heater. It's more of a scandinavia and north america thing.

#4 is for the N75 valve

Last edited by QuickTD; September 11th, 2019 at 17:55. Reason: Added more info
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Old September 11th, 2019, 22:58   #47
Koehn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickTD View Post
Use the original cluster, it already matches the keys. Pull it apart and install the diesel guage faces and modify the eeprom in the cluster to rescale the tach. You cannot adapt "used" key transponders to a new cluster. Modifying the immo/key data is possible but it requires better tools than you have...

Delete the immo in the ECU with via OBD using vag commander and you're all done.

EDIT- And in your mystery wiring connector #2 is either for the anti shudder valve, or the CCV heater. Most likely the former since most european vehicles did not have a CCV heater. It's more of a scandinavia and north america thing.

#4 is for the N75 valve
Haha yeah, when I saw an image of someone else's engine bay, I realized I'd run the cables wrong and that I had mistakenly hooked up the wrong connector to the N75 (3 identical connectors on a single lead seems like poor design).

I just dug out the old EGR/anti-shudder and it only has connections for vacuum lines, nothing electrical. So I guess it might be for the CCV heater. That still leaves one connector unaccounted for (I can't remember the wire colours off-hand), but I think it might be for a fuel temperature sensor. I noticed in a VCDS auto-scan Code P1163 "Fuel Temp Sensor (G62) Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent". These are both things I never knew existed in a vehicle

I was looking into getting some ID48 capsules to adapt to the new system (if I can pair the ECU to the cluster's IMMO ID following the VCDS write-up for swapping an ECU). That would be nice, because I'd still have an immobilizer, but it is something else to buy.

I've also got a thread going on NefMoto seeking information about how to write my 1.8T IMMO ID to the diesel cluster and ECU.


I don't mind pulling apart the cluster and swapping the faces, my old one is in better shape anyways! That said, I was hoping to keep the immobilizer. As far as rescaling the tach I found (this) video but I got a bit confused by all the steps he took. At first, I had no idea why his needle was hanging just below 1000rpm, but then I realized that he was checking the needle position for idle. I think the only part that's necessary is to change the first two columns in offset 330 to 78 & 10 respectively (I just checked my tdi cluster dump and that's what those values are there).

So the steps would just be:
  1. Read EEprom (encrypted)
  2. Save a clean backup
  3. Modify the first two values in offset 330 (addresses 00 & 01) to 78 & 10
  4. Write Eeprom (encrypted)
  5. Done!

That leaves me with figuring out how to delete the immo from the ecu with Vag Commander. For that I've found (this) video. There is an "immo off" button available after reading the ecu EEprom but I think that just gets ignored. So the jist of the video is that the value in offset 1B0 column 1 (00) needs to be changed to 60, and the value in offset 1D0 column 15 (0E) also needs to be changed to 60. Checking my ecu dump, both values are currently 73.

The steps for that would be:
  1. Connection Type K-Line
  2. ECU Type (VAG-EDC15x)
  3. Read EEPROM
  4. Save a clean backup
  5. Modify value in offset 1B0 address 00 to 60
  6. Modify value in offset 1D0 address 0E to 60
  7. Write EEPROM
  8. Done!

If that all looks good, then I'll give that a shot tomorrow!
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Old September 12th, 2019, 04:54   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koehn View Post
I just dug out the old EGR/anti-shudder and it only has connections for vacuum lines, nothing electrical.
The plug goes to the vacuum solenoid that operates the anti shudder valve. I doubt that you have a CCV heater, the wires would be red/white-brown if you did. The fuel temp sensor is located in the return line just after it exits the tandem pump. All electronically managed diesels have one. It is used to calculate fuel density.

Quote:
I was looking into getting some ID48 capsules to adapt to the new system (if I can pair the ECU to the cluster's IMMO ID following the VCDS write-up for swapping an ECU). That would be nice, because I'd still have an immobilizer, but it is something else to buy.

I've also got a thread going on NefMoto seeking information about how to write my 1.8T IMMO ID to the diesel cluster and ECU.
Do not mess around with the cluster eeprom in this fashion with Chinese tools. You will brick it. You cannot edit the immo values directly. The data is encrypted by the cluster itself as it is written, and is unique to the cluster. The only way to modify values in the immo portion of the eeprom is via the normal adaptation/key learning processes. Since your north American cluster/ecu and European cluster/ecu are different immo versions, this will be impossible.


Quote:
So the steps would just be:
  1. Read EEprom (encrypted)
  2. Save a clean backup
  3. Modify the first two values in offset 330 (addresses 00 & 01) to 78 & 10
  4. Write Eeprom (encrypted)
  5. Done!
Correct

Quote:
That leaves me with figuring out how to delete the immo from the ecu with Vag Commander. For that I've found (this) video. There is an "immo off" button available after reading the ecu EEprom but I think that just gets ignored. So the jist of the video is that the value in offset 1B0 column 1 (00) needs to be changed to 60, and the value in offset 1D0 column 15 (0E) also needs to be changed to 60. Checking my ecu dump, both values are currently 73.

The steps for that would be:
  1. Connection Type K-Line
  2. ECU Type (VAG-EDC15x)
  3. Read EEPROM
  4. Save a clean backup
  5. Modify value in offset 1B0 address 00 to 60
  6. Modify value in offset 1D0 address 0E to 60
  7. Write EEPROM
  8. Done!

If that all looks good, then I'll give that a shot tomorrow!
Just use the immo off button, it usually works just fine.

Last edited by QuickTD; September 13th, 2019 at 04:39.
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Old September 12th, 2019, 22:16   #49
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Just gave the vacuum system a closer look, and you're absolutely right. When I recieved the engine from Frans, the vac lines were just bundled on top of the engine and I didn't even realize both my N18 and N239 valves were missing. Because I deleted the EGR with a racepipe and simplified the vac lines, it also doesn't matter. Nice to finally know why I had two extra connectors!

It's been absolutely dumping rain all day, so I couldn't get out there to test my hand at the recoding again. But I appreciate you walking me through it and confirming these steps! This whole process and been difficult at times but I love how much I've learned through it all

Also, I pretty much murdered my battery last time, so I'll be sure to disconnect my glowplug relay next time

Rainy days do give me time to work on my brake upgrade though. Still prepping everything for paint. But at least I've got all the parts in now. Test fit the rotors and front calipers my old knuckles (they're handy for something!) and it looks like I'll have to get 1/16" (~1.6mm) machined off the inside of the mounting ears. That measurement seems inline with what others had to do with the V70R rotors as well, so now I just have to find a local machinist!





The gap to the guide pin is approximately 1/8" while the guide pin on the opposite side of the caliper was just touching the rotor, so if I get 1/16" machined off the inside of the ears, it should be centred
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Old September 12th, 2019, 22:49   #50
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Loading up those photos of the new brakes made me realize that I jumped straight into cluster troubleshooting and never posted the progress I made on the chassis!



The left tank is my A4 one, the right tank is from the S4 (same part # as the TDI). The S4 tank fit perfectly and allowed the TDI intercooler to sit well on it's bracket without bumping into anything. I did have to swap the windscreen pump from my A4 one to the S4 tank because I needed it to output to two lines instead of one. I assume the S4 just has a T-fitting further up the line



With the intercooler mounted, I made short work of the rest of the front end. I had an A/C o-ring kit from FCP Euro that was allegedly compatible with my car. Some of the o-rings on the lines I'd disconnected were really loose so I tried to find replacements. The bag had tons of o-rings and yet I still couldn't fine a good match for some of them. Going into the project I already didn't have a working A/C system and when I dismantled it, I found out why. All the Freon had already leaked out. Hopefully the o-rings I replaced will fix that!

On Sunday, I chopped up my rusty gasoline intermediate pipe to make a quick dump pipe for testing. The flange matched the diesel cat-pipe, but the angles are different so you can't just use the 1.8T pipe as-is. It's been a few years since I welded last, and I'm definitely no fabricator, but I had fun making it! I'll try to get an install picture of it later, it's decently ghetto and I chopped it level to the bottom of the trans crossmember.





For the wiring I went to my local european car wrecker (a place I frequent too often) and they let me chop out the body-harness connectors from a B7 (no B6's around) free-of-charge. So I de-pinned them all with my cheap amazon tools and now I had more than I needed!



At least that's what I thought, turns out the pin I had to add to connector T10 (black) was different! The T17 has three sizes of pins: small single-sided latch, medium double-sided latch, and big-double sided latch. The T10 has two sizes (IRCC) small double-sided latch and medium double-sided latch. So back to the wrecker to chop a connector out of a B5.

Left is the small T17 pin, right is the small T10 pin



After reading this thread (clicky) about wheel alignment on Audizine. I tried to scoot my rear subframe back as I didn't like how close the wheels were to the front of the wheel wells. With the rear end back on jackstands I loosened the mounting bolts and dropped the subframe about 1/2" all around. Even with the help of a Wonder Bar prying between the front mount and the car frame, we were only able to shift it back 3/8" on either side. The thread mentions people moving it and checking then moving it some more, but I had to hang on the bar while my dad tightened the bolts to get it to stay back. I'm still not all that happy with the wheel positioning, but I'm not sure what else I can do. The eccentric bolts for toe on both sides of the car are also completely maxxed out (pushing the front of the wheel out and back) but it still doesn't seem like enough.

I think the subframe was still loose when this photo was taken



To finish, I've added engine oil (only one 505.01 rated oil around) and water (G12 coolant to be flushed in later). I installed the front axles yesterday. Turns out both front wheel bearings are shot, so I have replacements on the way (those are surprisingly pricey). Once those are swapped in, the S4 rear brakes are painted and installed, the rear camber and front tie-rods are adjusted, power steering fluid is added (ended up with Pentosin CHF 202 at the recomendation of people on Audizine), aaaaand the immobilizer work is finished... then I might be able to drive it

Maybe
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Old September 18th, 2019, 22:17   #51
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Good news bad news! Basically just lots of news. (Sorry for the lack of pictures)

To start, I tried to pair the ECU to the diesel cluster and that one failed with the error "Key Not OK" (not 100% on the actual message but that was essentially the point). So I think if I did get the immo pills I still might be able to get that to work, but as it is currently with my existing keys, they won't pair. So I did exactly what QuickTD advised: recoded the tachometer, swapped faceplates, and deleted the immobilizer in the ECU with VAG-Commander.

With that done, and the fluids topped up, fuel filter replaced and about 20 seconds of cranking... it started! IT ACTUALLY STARTED ! I was sooooo stoked but knew she wasn't done yet. Before she could be road worthy I still needed to replace the front wheel bearings and finish up my S4 rear brake upgrade so that I could replace my frozen rear caliper.

Since I upgraded the rears and I'm working on the front big brake kit, I decided painting the calipers and carriers would be a good idea and it'd be much more convenient while they still weren't mounted. Despite really wanting to go with dark blue I got swayed over to yellow, so I picked up some VHT caliper paint and clear coat. Without boring you with the detailed process, I'll just say I'm not impressed. Right out the oven I could tell the paint didn't cure that well. It even seemed to have liquified in some areas and was easily wiped off to bare metal with a dry finger. The paint also chips off basically anytime someone glances at them. They look nice from far, but they're far from good. For the Brembo's I'm heavily considering my powdercoat options...

Wheel bearings went in smooth enough now that I'm well acquainted with the front suspension. Torqued up the new axle nuts (wow that takes some force!), and took her off the jackstands. It was time for the maiden voyage.

She fired right up this time nice and easy! The driving experience around the block was... interesting .The power steering pump groaned a ton as it churned through the air bubbles. The front brakes were grinding against the rusty rotors. The engine was loud, smooth and ran clean. But, there was a wheel-speed based ticking from the front end that had me concerned. After coming around the corner, popping the charge-air pipe (still waiting for the clip) and rolling a huge cloud of coal behind, I stopped for a checkup and found a power steering leak that was easy to fix.

Took a few more rides in the neighborhood, going real easy. Happy to report the brakes smoothed out and are nice and firm. Got the front end back up and tried to better fill the power steering system; basically just turning from lock to lock and adding fluid as the bubbles came out. I think that's almost dialed in as it only groans at full lock now (which I'm pretty sure it always did that).

The only real issue now is that speed-based clicking . By the end of my testing I think it had faded away when driving in a straight line, but when coasting into corners it reeeeally ramped up and could be felt in the cabin. I suppose it could be the front cv's binding, but I had absolutely no issues with them before the swap and they literally sat in a dry shed all summer until I installed them last week. Boots weren't torn at all and they looked good. Hopefully I'll figure it out quick, driving a motorcycle to work in the summer is fine, but it's getting wetter out each day!

EDIT: To add, I put the car back up on all 4 jackstands, and ran it in gear and there wasn't any clunking. Not with the wheels straight ahead or at either lock. So it's only when acutlaly driving/the suspension is loaded

Last edited by Koehn; September 18th, 2019 at 22:27.
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Old September 19th, 2019, 05:19   #52
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Congratulations on getting it moving under its own power. now to figure out the clicking noises.
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Old September 19th, 2019, 11:33   #53
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Thanks Growler! Still really excited by that despite the issues.

I've found this (clicky) thread on Audizine, and post #6 mentions the subframe pinch welds coming loose. The fix is basically just to weld the two pieces together which isn't bad. I feel like my symptoms are a little different, but because the noise goes away when the car is on jackstands, I think it might be my issue. Hoping to check today after work if the rainclouds stay away!
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Old September 20th, 2019, 08:49   #54
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Got the front end back up and checked the subframe and halfshafts. Subframe looks perfectly fine, with tight seams all around. I noticed the right side halfshaft had some lateral play, so with the wheels up on blocks and the suspension loaded, I could easily shift the axle toward the wheel and toward the transmission enough for it to make some noise when it stopped in each direction. I'm assuming this is not intended movement. The left side halfshaft moved as well, but it's almost an imperceptible amount. It can only be felt, not seen or heard.

So, I started shopping for axles and reading people's thoughts on the current offerings. Raxles seem to get the highest praise, but it'd be $800 CAD to do both sides or $470 for just one. At this point I'm not sure if both of my axles are toast so that seems like a tough buy. Germanautoparts, ECSTuning, FCPEuro, etc. all carry GKN replacements which is the OEM, so people like those. They also have a lot of much cheaper options (<$100 each) but it's hard to find a glowing review for any of them. I called up my local Audi dealer just for kicks, $560 per axle and they're apparently on backorder until at least November . Safe to say that's not happening!

Lordco has Cardone-brand axles for about $100 each. Reviews online seem negative, but I decided to push my luck. I bought two, but I'll put just the passenger side one in and then I'll test it. If the noise is reduced, but not gone, I'll try the driver's side. If that fixes it but it craps out in a month or two, then I'll just get the Raxles and move on with my life. Won't be able to work on the car at all this weekend, so now we wait

As much as I hoped it wasn't the halfshafts making this noise, it'll be a much easier fix if it is! Otherwise I'll have to keep hunting
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Old September 23rd, 2019, 19:36   #55
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Alright I'm at a total loss. I replaced the right-side axle with the Cardon one and the noise hasn't changed one bit. It's definitely more aggressive when turning to the right, but is definitely still audible when turning left also. I can feel it in the floor each time it hits. Drove some circles around my dad and nothing looked off from the outside while turning in either direction. He also couldn't even hear it from outside

I took two videos to help try to explain what I'm dealing with. First one is me driving around the neighborhood and coasting in neutral as I turn. The last corner is a right-hander and the sound really ramps up there and should be quite easily heard by anyone.

Second video is of my oem passenger-side axle sitting on the bench. The inner shaft is compressed so the movement is isolated to only the outer cv joint. Overal it feels smooth and the boots are fine, its really just that play that I'm unsure about there. If it's fine as-is then I'll probably try to reinstall it and return the Cardone one considering it hasn't seemed to help.

Video #1

Video #2

All I've done to the car lately has been captured here pretty thoroughly, but if there's anything I can add to help you help me, I'll try my best.
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Old September 23rd, 2019, 22:39   #56
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Congratulations, having it running and driving is a major piece of progress. Solving the noise ought to be a small task compared with what you have already done so far.

Troubleshooting can be tricky when you have had so many pieces of the car apart all at once, since almost every area you have touched is potentially suspect if there is an issue. Sounds like axles are likely not the issue if it's the same parts you had in it with the gas engine and there was no noise then.

It's hard to tell in the video if the noise is timed to road speed (one click per revolution of the axle) or at a more rapid frequency. Do you know which it is?

Have you taken a close look at all the tires? or tried swapping them around on the car?
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Old September 23rd, 2019, 23:34   #57
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From what I hear in the video it sound like your car is making a clunking sound once per tire rotation and not a high pitch click. When cv shafts wear out they usually click while going around turns. I am wondering if your front rims might be hitting the knuckles or your callipers might be hitting your rims. Is it possible one of your wheels came loose. If you can feel the clunking in the floor something be making a pretty solid hit. You could try jacking your car up and rotating the front wheels with the steering turned. Another thing you could try is have someone sit in different corners of the car and listen to see where the noise is louder.
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Old September 24th, 2019, 10:21   #58
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I really appreciate the replies guys!

Haha it may be simpler in comparison, but it's the last piece preventing me from having my daily back d24tdi!

The sound is definitely wheel-speed based, but I haven't confirmed if it's once or twice-per wheel rotation. My gut feeling is once-per.

I'll try to get under it again today to see if anything with the wheel/caliper is touching. It's still just the stock A4 brake (288mm) at the moment so clearance to the wheel shouldn't be an issue. I didn't notice it wobbling when I swapped the axle, but I'll be sure to double check all caliper mounting bolts on both sides anyways.

The knuckles are new to me, but came off a B7. Everything looked the same, but I didn't actually check part numbers (I'm 99% they are the same). The wheel bearings are new and have no play. I'll still look to see if there are rubbing marks anywhere on the upright.

I know at least one wheel weight came off through this process, so I was planning on getting them rebalanced anyways. But I feel slightly unbalanced wheels should only matter at higher speeds. Overall the wheels are tight, I always snug up the lug bolts while the car is up, then tighten to 90ft-lbs on the ground.

When I first drove the car and noticed the sound I put it back up on 4 jackstands and running in gear I could turn lock to lock with all four wheels spinning and it never made the sound. Is there a way to properly jack up the front knuckles to allow for turning the wheel while the suspension is loaded? I figured a block of wood on the lower links would impede their functionality and could cause the car to fall off

I found a thread on audizine (clicky) mentioning that the FCP control arm kit was supplied with bolts that were too long for both the front lower strut mount and the sway bar end links. The end links ended up not being tight, and the lower strut mount bolt would impact the rearward lower arm. I think I noticed the end link bolt not working so I reused old hardware, but I can't say I noticed the other bolt being too long. So that might be an issue, but I feel like that would cause 1 clunk for each time the suspension is loaded in a corner, not repeated hits. It'll be checked anyways!

If nothing else works, I may pull the front strut out and check the top washer. Some people needed a stack to stop the play. Again, I feel like this would lead to a single clunk per weight transfer, but it may be worth looking into.
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Old September 24th, 2019, 23:10   #59
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Full disclosure: I have no clue what's going on.

Put the car up on blocks again so I could slide under and check things while the suspension was loaded. First thing I noticed was that I had somehow installed the front headlight level sensor on wrong (explained the error I was getting on the dash), so I fixed that. I checked all the bolts in the front suspension for being loose or protruding too long and it all seemed fine. The calipers were tight, sway bar end links looked fine, etc.

Checked the axles again, and the new passenger-side one was tight as expected. The driver-side one, however, now had some lateral play... it felt just like the old-passenger side one. Just yesterday it was tight and I couldn't move it at all. Turning the wheel while on blocks also revealed no (obvious) clearance issues. The wheel is decently far away from everything.

After double checking everything up front and in the back, I decided to try another test drive. First, I torqued the right axle to it's yield as I was committed to using it at least for now. The cheap bolt (26mm hex instead of 17mm allen) stretched muuuuuuch easier than the oem one that came with my SKF bearing. It was freakishly easy to get the 180 degrees with a pipe on the breaker bar... not sure how I should feel about that.

Now the road report: the sound wasn't gone, but it was very different. Instead of the consistent clunking that I swear was about once per wheel revolution, it was now a grumbling with about 3 barely distinguishable hits. You couldn't tap in time with it. The sound also seemed to lessen more and more as I kept doing laps around the block (plenty of stares from the neighbors). While previously the sound was worse when turning right, now it feels like its louder turning left.

For the time being I've accepted it, though I know it's not ideal. I'm hoping to get into an exhaust shop tomorrow and an alignment right after.

I drove it for about another 20 minutes up and down hills and over speedbumps. The chassis feels fantastic, its really solid. The suspension also settled a bit already. The fender to wheel gaps have closed a bit, but I still don't like how the back tires sit in the arches or how much caster adjustment I had to use. Hopefully the shop can help me there.

The engine drives super smooth and with my ghetto dump pipe its constantly cooing . I missed having a diesel, that torque just makes it so easy to drive! I cleared all codes with VCDS and the only ones that came back with a full auto-scan were for the EGR stuff (as expected) as well as something for the Climatronic unit (I'll have to look into that). I had to resync my keys (keyless entry hasn't worked since reconnecting the battery); kudos to Audi for making that process surprisingly simple. When braking a a bit harder (not stomping on it) I did feel a short intermittent grumble. I suppose it could be the ABS getting confused because I haven't adapted for the bigger S4 rear brakes yet. The cruise control doesn't work in any gear so I'll have to figure out what needs to be done to code in my transmission gear ratios. Finally, the engine never got hotter than about 68 degrees Celsius so I think my thermostat might be stuck open. But it drives!!!

If the new clunking/grumbling gets worse I may swap in the new Cardone driver-side axle I have. I'd rather not use it, but with the movement that showed up today, it might have to get replaced anyways and may be the cause of the sound after all.
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Old September 24th, 2019, 23:58   #60
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Default Wiring Harness Modification

Now that I'm relatively certain I got my wiring right, I figured I would share what I'd figured out. All of this is technically only for my specific case, I can't guarantee anyone else's car will be exactly like mine. The steps I took allow for it all to be reversed relatively easily, but this obviously isn’t required. All I’d really have to do is buy a new Fuel Pump Relay, and remove/reinstall some pins from the connectors.

Tools:
  • Good wire strippers
  • Good wire crimpers (terminal connectors)
  • Some heat shrink tubing
  • A few cable ties
  • Some OEM pins pulled from junkyard car connectors (I used both B7 and B5)
  • A few lengths of wire that match the OEM specs found on the diagrams (I pulled mine from the RHD TDI engine harness I had)

I started by comparing all the wire colours found on the two different engine harnesses. Lots were the same, many were different. Then I dug in, traced, and wrote down each and every circuit so I knew what it's function was. Again, many were the same, but some were different. Of the list of different circuits, not all had to be rectified, so there were a decent number of connections where nothing had to be changed despite the circuits not matching (likely just not existing on the diesel harness). The following list is only what I actually had to change:

T10 - Black
T10/2 - Back-probe/splice into the signal wire from Pin 2 of Load Reduction Relay
(Relay in Position #6 in interior carrier, 370 printed on it, pin 2 was the small left pin)

T17d - Red
T17d/6 - Unexpectedly, the chassis already had this wire even though the AMB engine harness didn’t
T17d/10 - Remove pin from car-side harness and cap w/ shrink wrap (T17d/9 & 10 are only needed for the auxiliary heating relay signals)
T17d/16 - Run a new wire to switched power (I used the gasoline fuel pump relay power pin Relay Position #1 in interior carrier. The gas fuel pump relay is not needed as the diesel one is in the engine harness/plenum chamber carrier. The power supply pin is the big one on the left, I broke the relay, 167 printed on it, and salvaged the pin to make a crimp-on blade connector)

T17e - White
T17e/1-6 - Replace accelerator pedal w/ diesel version (8E1721523F)
T17e/15 - Swap positions with pin T17e/16 in engine harness, then remove and cap wire on car-side harness. Run a new wire to switched power (I used the gasoline fuel pump relay power signal pin Relay Position #1 in interior carrier. I just crimped a blade connector on the end of the new wire and it fits perfectly)
T17e/16 - Swap positions with pin T17e/15 in engine harness
T17e/17 - Run new wire directly to constant power source (I crimped on a ring terminal connector and mounted it to the threaded post D1, which can be found near the interior relay carrier.

And that's it! If you'd fancy a look, here's my spreadsheet again (clicky). It's messy, but it got the job done! I did all the final figuring out by writing the problematic circuits out by hand and drawing simpler images to condense the multi-page current chart diagrams, so not all of my work is shown there.

If you're tackling this for the first time, it's tough at first, but eventually it all clicks and you actually (kinda) understand what you're looking at and what you need to do! I was stressing really hard for a long time about not being able to do the wiring and it did take me a long time to map out all the circuits, compare them, and then figure out how to rectify the issues. It's probably one of the easier swaps because the engine and harness are technically from the same chassis, but for a first-timer it was certainly a challenge!

Last edited by Koehn; September 26th, 2019 at 00:24.
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