Turbine
Well-known member
Any precautions that should be made when making the change?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Conventional to Synthetic
- Thread starter Turbine
- Start date
dieseldorf
Top Post Dawg
what kind of car is it? How many miles on it?
Turbine
Well-known member
2000 golf tdi...140k
naturist
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2001
- Location
- Bro Jerry's hometown, Virginia
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI, 2005 Jeep Libby CRD, 2012 BMW X5 35d
I think Bob Fout is asking that because a 2000 Golf TDI is supposed to have been running ONLY on a synthetic or synthetic blend all along. Bringing it to a synthetic after 140,000 miles on conventional oil is bringing it to the party way late.
dieseldorf
Top Post Dawg
X2.naturist said:
.
Not really. Watch this engine last 800,000 miles.naturist said:
Now back to the question. When you use conventional oil or dino oil... the synthetic oils have all sorts of conditioners that tend to make seals "first" leak because the synthetics flow thinner and more completely and then the conditioners make the seals swell and the leaks stop. So when you switch to full synthetic oil be prepared for a few oil drips on the driveway.
What oil was used in this car prior may I ask. How often was that oil changed?
Brian
Gothmolly
Veteran Member
Let the synthetic fanboism begin. A 2000 was originally spec'd to run on normal, then later VW issued a TSB saying synthetic only. Technical reasons probably equal the financial ones, so there's no way to tell if you really _need_ the synthetic. Perhaps crappy OCI combined with crappy dino = dead motors. Perhaps not.Turbine said:
For sure, you will have 100 posts saying you've ruined your TDI, complete with images posted of scans taken from TSBs, owners manuals, and the backs of oil bottles.
Strjock81
Active member
I guess this lends credence to the many gentle arguments I have had with numerous brainwashed folks that think since a TDI has a turbo it must absolutely have synthetic oil to survive more than a few thousand miles. Now if they wanted to argue that synthetic is better in this application and make note of the higher than normal EGTs and combustion chamber temps present in the TDI, that's fine, and valid.
But from reading this board, it seems everyone here believes these engines will blow up by the time you get home with 15w-40 in them. While there are some notable differences between OTR turbo diesels and TDIs, TDIs too can run on dino 15w-40 and live reasonable lives. The newer CI-4 and CI-4+ spec oils burn very clean in high temp environments like TDIs, and will leave very little in the way of deposits. They also aren't as liable to coke up and sludge either.
I run synthetic in our TDI, because I believe it is the best option, but that does not preclude the fact that name brand dino oils will perform adequately to get these engines to the point most people will be getting rid of them anyways. I just don't buy that these oils will fill your engine up with deposits, sludge it up, and ruin your turbo in the short or even medium term like some of the big shots on this board preach day in and day out. I am not even sure how much of a problem they will cause long term with decent drain intervals.
But from reading this board, it seems everyone here believes these engines will blow up by the time you get home with 15w-40 in them. While there are some notable differences between OTR turbo diesels and TDIs, TDIs too can run on dino 15w-40 and live reasonable lives. The newer CI-4 and CI-4+ spec oils burn very clean in high temp environments like TDIs, and will leave very little in the way of deposits. They also aren't as liable to coke up and sludge either.
I run synthetic in our TDI, because I believe it is the best option, but that does not preclude the fact that name brand dino oils will perform adequately to get these engines to the point most people will be getting rid of them anyways. I just don't buy that these oils will fill your engine up with deposits, sludge it up, and ruin your turbo in the short or even medium term like some of the big shots on this board preach day in and day out. I am not even sure how much of a problem they will cause long term with decent drain intervals.
Last edited:
Fortuna Wolf
Veteran Member
I've heard that if you are switching from conventional to synthetic you should first use a oil cleaning product. I've heard that a quart of kerosene dumped into the oil works. Let that idle 30 minutes or so to dissolve any deposits and slude then completely drain (don't forget the oil filter housing either) and fill up with synthetic. Be prepared for some leaks and oil consumption for a few thousand miles.
dieseldorf
Top Post Dawg
It continues to amaze me how many folks are entirely clueless concerning VW's recommendation for a synthetic oil.
LanduytG
Vendor
As long as the motor in in GOOD mechanical condition and you don't have ANY leaks you can change over. I have changed over many with more than 200K on them. If you have a leak fix it because synthetic flow so much easier it will find a leak real easy. Use and engine flush with a clean filter with the old oil in it. Fast idle it for 20-30 minutes then dump everything and put in your favorite sythetic with a new filter. I would recommend changing the filter early because the oil will continue to clean out the crap. If you are going to be using a group 3 synthetic just change to oil and filter and don't worry about it.Fortuna Wolf said:
Greg
I would NOT do that.Fortuna Wolf said:
Synthetic oil has conditioners already built into the composition. There is no need to dump Kerosene into a diesel engine. Synthetics flow thinner then dino oil so many gaskets/seals that may be marginally plugged up with stuff ...the synthetics will flow through it as it breaks down the deposits. The conditioners in the synthetic will eventually make seals and stuff swell and the leaks usually stop after a period of time.
I would be interested in what type of oil was used in this car for 140k?
Fortuna Wolf
Veteran Member
Brian, the point of the kerosene is that it acts as an engine flush. Put it in the old oil to help clean the engine of any dino deposits, and then change with a synthetic. Though, I would use an engine flush product before using kerosene.
wny_pat
Top Post Dawg
No kerosene in the crankcase! Synthetic oil has its own cleansing properties. You been reading the wrong stuff or listening to the wrong people.
bigEZ
Veteran Member
bold statements. care to back them up with some proof?Strjock81 said:
if i'm not mistaken, the sludging problem that the vw 1.8t's were having was partly/fully based upon conventional oil instead of synthetic being used. those engines -- also turbos -- don't run at nearly the operating pressures that our tdi's do.
if you believe there are conventional oils out there that are fine to run in your car, why are you running synthetic?
you state that "name brand dino oils will perform adequately to get these engines to the point most people will be getting rid of them anyways." a time frame like 3-4 years, less than 100k miles. these engines can/are meant too last much longer than that. are you saying that it's ok for an original owner to possibly (note i say "possibly") cause serious engine problems, which might not manifest themselves until the next "possibly" unsuspecting owner gets the car? is that very responsible?
if you do indeed have some sort of proof or study or some sort of facts that you can cite about your conventional vs synthetic statements, i'd love to see them. until then, i'll just consider this your opinion.
Turbine
Well-known member
Hey Guys,
Just bought the car...will have more info soon..can't get a hold of owner right now.
By the way...140 km...soooooo.....87.5 miles.
Just bought the car...will have more info soon..can't get a hold of owner right now.
By the way...140 km...soooooo.....87.5 miles.
TornadoRed
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2003
- Location
- West Des Moines (formerly St Paul)
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (PARTED); 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD)
So then the next owner can deal with the consequences?Strjock81 said:
A TDI run with conventional motor oil for more than a few thousand miles would automatically be worth $4k-5k less to me.