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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old March 17th, 2020, 04:43   #91
Powder Hound
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Default Day 62

Happy St. Pat's everyone! Don't drink too much. None at all would be best; your liver will thank you for that. But, to each their own. Remember the rest of us are counting on you to drive safely home.

Anyway, yesterday I didn't spend too much time there at the shop and what time I was there was in slow motion. Too cold still!

I am disconnecting stuff from the transaxle and getting it ready to drop out. The front is up on jack stands, wheels off. I disconnected the shift cables, and there's problems with the shift tower. Luckily, the replacement unit I have has no such problems. And I think I have a used Sigma 5 shifter in my garage; I'll check that before leaving for the shop.

Yesterday I was able to disconnect the inner CV joints and release the outer axle stubs from the bearing carriers. I'll have to refresh the suspension eventually, but I'm not doing that now because I'm saving that. We'll see. For the moment getting the halfshafts out of the way will be sufficient.

I also removed, or tried to remove, the dog-bone. One mounting bolt to the subframe decided it was more important to hang onto its nut than stay with the head, which twisted off. The other bolt came off as well as the two bolts on the underside of the transaxle. But the dog-bone itself is still firmly in place. I sprayed around the perimeter with PB blaster, hoping the overnight soak will loosen what is apparently firmly rusted into place. I can only hope the bolt shaft will come loose later as it will need replacing, of course.

There's other fasteners that are rusted, or welded in place nuts inside various parts that are rusted to the fastener more firmly than the nut is welded to the body part. I don't think I will ever again consider buying a car from New England for other than parts. It is just too much trouble to try and get everything apart. Good thing I'm moving south. And then there are various plastic weatherproof plugs, the problem child in this case being the reverse switch that is on the shifter tower of the transaxle. Why do these things insist on breaking instead of coming apart????

Anyway, there are also the fasteners around the exhaust to get the turbocharger out as well. I will check, but I'm thinking at this point the oil feed and discharge lines to the turbocharger will not survive this effort. Not looking forward to replacing them because they seem to be so precious to the sellers. Ugh.

Oh, well. At least I am on the downside of the electrical repairs to the house. Still need to replace a switch and run some cable, where the most fun part will be running it into the fuse box. Oh, joy.

Cheers,

PH
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Old March 18th, 2020, 04:28   #92
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Default Day 63

Well, the reverse switch indeed insisted on breakage. Good thing I at least have a replacement with pigtail included on the replacement unit. There was also a similar plug for the VSS, but it cooperated.

I also installed a support rig. I made this about 10 years ago, used it twice, and since it has been rusting merrily away in my garage. But it still works. Now all that is left for this is finding suspension belts/chains/kevlar kite string/whatever to hold the engine up and allow the transaxle to be gently lowered to the ground.

If only.

I still have the one bolt holding the dog bone to the subframe. The corrosion around the bolt is such that I don't think even PB blaster is penetrating it. I'm not sure what to do. Maybe if I can find some safety wire I will pound it flat and use it to scrape around the bolt.

So when the above problems are resolved I'll be able to remove bolts and drop the transaxle.

Cheers,

PH
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Old March 18th, 2020, 17:19   #93
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Default Day 64

I took a photo of the broken dog bone bolt. I should have flipped the photo as it is upside down. Sorry.



It doesn't do a good job of showing the corrosion around the bolt that seized it in place and caused the loss of the bolt head.

I ended up fashioning a probe by grinding down the end of a knitting machine needle. I just figured it would be a hardened metal and would last longer than a paper clip wire.

After 2 hours of digging out the corrosion, the dog bone finally came loose. Now we'll have fun trying to get the rusted bolt out of its hole. It will take a few days to get a new one to replace it, so no worries about taking a while to extract the rusted bolt.

I was able to remove the bolts from the transaxle, the trans mount, and get everything loose. I had also been able to get a couple of straps to use on the frame I made, one with a winch, so I'll have a way of easily raising and lowering the transaxle. Or the replacement, depending on where in the process I am.

Later this evening I'll need to go review old threads to get the helpful hints on dropping the transaxle. I am sure the install will be a reverse of removal. I need the hints because right now it is hung up and not dropping out. I'll probably find that unbolting the exhaust from the turbocharger will be helpful as well, and that is tomorrow. I was kinda hoping I could wait on that until the trans was out of the way, but nope.

Cheers,

PH
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Last edited by Powder Hound; March 18th, 2020 at 17:21.
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Old March 18th, 2020, 18:18   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Hound View Post
Later this evening I'll need to go review old threads to get the helpful hints on dropping the transaxle. I am sure the install will be a reverse of removal. I need the hints because right now it is hung up and not dropping out. I'll probably find that unbolting the exhaust from the turbocharger will be helpful as well, and that is tomorrow. I was kinda hoping I could wait on that until the trans was out of the way, but nope.
Cheers,
PH
I've done this a couple of times and had varying degrees of frustration. Sometimes disconnecting the sway bar is enough to get it out. Last time I just gave up and dropped the subframe. That always works.
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Old March 18th, 2020, 19:01   #95
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You know I had a real easy time changing my 2001 to a standard. Bentley says to drop the drivers side of the engine about 2.25 inches. Watch the drivers side motor mount for measurements. Use a small jack to push the engine as far forward as you can. I had no troubles doing the r&r. There was lots of room. I used an engine bar and made a winch attachment for it to lift the transmissions. It was a piece of cake literally.
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Old March 19th, 2020, 06:27   #96
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Lots of good info here
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/100...emoval-mk4.htm
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Old March 19th, 2020, 14:53   #97
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Yes, I think I just need to disconnect the down pipe and then jack the engine forward. No work today as I came down with a migraine and the weather did not cooperate. It has been a necessary lazy day.

Cheers,

PH
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Old March 20th, 2020, 18:04   #98
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Default Day 65

The transaxle came out by doing just what I said: remove the downpipe, push the engine forward just a tad, then wiggle the transaxle around whatever it is hanging up on. Not too terrible.

Then I decided to check out the turbocharger. There is no axial or lateral play that is noticeable to a finger stuck in the turbine end. This tells me the turbocharger is OK. Other than rusty fasteners, and a rusted out vacuum can on the vane adjuster, it is OK. I'm inclined to see if I can just replace that adjuster rather than the whole turbocharger.

There's 2 small bolts that hold that vacuum can in place. 8mm is too small, it swims in a 10mm socket, and 9mm just doesn't really work either. It is making me think that the bolts are either SAE sized, or rusted to a weird non-standard size. I'll have to get a 3" adjustable end wrench and try again. I should have one in my bike tools box.

I also started to break down the intake end of things. Looking in the EGR, it looks like the intake is clogged. After futzing around with those bolts and finding that it is hard to get everything to come loose in an orderly manner since they're rusted together, I finally was able to get the EGR valve and vacuum can assembly off. It seems that in every set of these allen bolts one of them is too stubborn to come out. I eventually was able to get the EGR loose.



Yeah, even if the turbocharger was working, this thing would have been gutless. That buildup is hard, too. Interestingly, I stuck my finger in the hole and it seems that the 'plug' only goes into the intake manifold about an inch. I'll have to pull it since if I didn't, whichever intake valve was open would collect about 100ml of carbon chunks and break the engine when I next tried to start it, so I'll pull it and do it right.

Backing up a bit, here's the bolt that was holding me up last time. Because it broke so close to the bolt head, it left a good chunk to hold with my visegrip. I sprayed some PB blaster on it on Wednesday, and today it worked loose rather easily.



The bolt is on the right. In the center is some kind of insert. Here's another shot:



It was sitting on the ground after I got the transaxle loose on Wednesday. I don't know where it came from, so I have a problem in trying to figure out how to get it back into its proper place for reassembly. If anyone has a good idea, please let me know as it will hold me up if I can't figure this out.

So at this point, I'm trying to get the EGR cooler out. A couple of allen head bolts are not cooperating, one on each end of the cooler. I'm ready to just cut the plumbing and get this thing going. I'm not planning on putting the cooler back in, and I have not noticed an active market in used EGR coolers, so I'm not thinking this will be a great loss in potential parts sales. Probably I can do some careful trimming and welding, and a little metal forming of trimmed piping from the existing stuff I'll be removing, and I'll be able to make a bypass kit from the parts. It is nice to be working right next to a metal shop. I think the owner thereof has a roller to make the same type bumps and rings as are on the usual pipes you find on stuff like, oh, EGR cooler coolant stubs. Well, probably not for something this small though. But I'll still have the parts I need from cannibalized removed parts.

With the intake manifold out of the way then maybe I can get this ready to start putting back together relatively quickly. Luckily for me, I already have a cleaned intake manifold ready to swap in, so the only thing I'll have to clean is the EGR valve.

Cheers,

PH
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Old March 21st, 2020, 14:56   #99
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Default Day 66

Got a few things done towards mechanical repairs.

I have the intake manifold out, which was after getting the EGR cooler out of the way. The EGR cooler will be handled separately.

I still have a couple of nuts on the main EGR port at the turbocharger that are stuck. I have a set of Irwin extractors (the type that works from the outside) but the one bit I need is missing. I don't know where it has run off to, but I suspect it is hiding in my messy garage somewhere. Murphy's Law of lost things kicks in here: if I just keep looking for it, I will never find it. But if I replace it, the lost item will magically reappear. So it looks like I'll need to go buy a new one.

I will check the vane operation after removing the old rusted actuator. If they're good, I'll go ahead with replacing the actuator instead of the entire turbocharger.

Here's the 2 intake manifolds side by side: the dirty one and the cleaned one ready for reassembly:



And while taking all this apart, I caught as much coolant as I could. I think nearly all of it came out of the head. About 2 liters.



Yumm - looks like punch, but this stuff will poison you.

And here's the damage so far:



That port right in the middle is the one with the 2 very stubborn nuts. I'll be working on them as soon as I find a new extractor.

Cheers!

PH
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 13:46   #100
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Default Day 67. Oh, bleep!

I didn't get near as much done as I had hoped, mostly because I surpassed my oh bleep limit.

I did find the proper place for that washer thing from a couple of days ago: it is an insert to a bushing for the mounts that hold the shifter cables. One of the three. So that part is ready to go.

And yesterday evening I found a replacement set of Irving extractors. So today I started out to remove the nuts from the studs on the EGR port of the turbocharger. One came out. Well, sort of. The nut was rusted tightly onto the stud, so the stud came out with the nut still on tight. It may never come loose. The other had the stud solid in the turbo casting as well, so the bolt broke. Oh, bleep.



Well, I'll have to figure out that one later I guess. The next thing is to remove the failed vane actuator for the turbocharger.



Yeah, no question that it has seen better days. The little modified c clip that keeps the actuator shaft onto the vane shaft was very stubborn and went flying when it finally let go. I think I heard it tinkle down into the sub-frame someplace under the rack, so probably I'll never see it again. Oh, bleep.

So then it was time to remove the spare actuator from the spare turbocharger, and...



Yeah. Oh, bleep. A $100 bleep. I might be able to think of some way to use it anyway, but I'm not terribly hopeful. It would be a temporary situation I am sure. Ugh, I hate rusty cars.

At this point, since the bleep limit is 1 and I was well past that, I gave up and went home before the snowfall that is predicted. We're supposed to be in spring, but it is New Hampshire after all. Spring doesn't start up here until the end of April.

Cheers!

PH
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 14:49   #101
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You could try one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB78JK2...dDbGljaz10cnVl

or this one if you didn't want to wait so long
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0140PEB1O...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 16:07   #102
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Nice find, thanks! We'll see how it holds up.

Cheers,

PH

PS: It is snowing, but it is supposed to quit by tomorrow morning. Accumulation looks to make things 'interesting'. Well, maybe not so much because of the very low traffic levels around here lately. And I still have the winter shoes on my Y2k Golf.
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Last edited by Powder Hound; March 23rd, 2020 at 16:09.
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Old March 24th, 2020, 04:44   #103
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Default Yet another fine spring day in New Hampshire...



The DD is lower left, and the wife's TDI NB in front of the garage.

Not to worry though; today's high is forecast to be 50*F, as is the rest of the week. I'm not even going to bother starting up the snow blower.

Cheers!

PH
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Old March 24th, 2020, 15:42   #104
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Default Day 68

Well, the broken stud frozen in place at the EGR port is still refusing to move. So I figure that maybe I should see if I can remove the turbocharger without shredding the oil feed line.

To do that, I altered a wrench slightly so it would fit at the bottom of that flare nut fitting. I have an unaltered wrench for comparison. The unaltered has a box end, while the altered one has a 19mm open end on the other side. It was the least interesting wrench so I figured I could do something a little destructive to it.



That didn't work too well as I can't generate much torque with my arms at strange angles and straight out. I haven't tried unorthodox positions yet, but that might be in the near future if something else doesn't work soon. In this case that means climbing in on top of the engine as I wouldn't do much better from underneath as I am doing now.

Next up is tearing apart the rusted out actuator trying to figure out if I can make some sort of repair so I won't have to wait 6 or 7 weeks for the one I just ordered.

This is what the bottom of the actuator vacuum can looks like when you tear it away from the stuff that it is welded together with.



If you flip this over, you find the two mounting bolts are not welded in place at all and have a very thin hex head.



I also need to do a little disassembly on the other one, but the adjuster thing is frozen onto the center bolt. So I am stopped on that for now. You know, it is really frustrating to try and do a project where every other fastener you look at is frozen in place by rust.

One other thing I was able to get done is to get rid of the golf club on the replacement transaxle. May as well install the new cable-shifter interface parts while I'm there:



Yeah, have a Sigma 5 shifter I got used from somebody several years ago, and I'm finally putting it to use.

Most of the snow shown in the photo of the previous post is melted. I figure by tomorrow evening the rest will be gone, except for very protected locations. So the weather will be back to the regularly scheduled tease of maybe spring is coming.

Cheers!

PH
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Old March 25th, 2020, 16:35   #105
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Default Day 69

Some progress today.

First was the recognition that I can't get the supply line off the old turbocharger. It no longer has an actuator on it, so I'd need to find another. Trying to adapt the one from the spare turbocharger didn't work since one of the mounting bolts broke. And then I tried something: working the vane lever without an acutator on it. It should turn freely, but apparently the vanes are either too worn to work well, or they are so stuffed with carbon they are inhibited. So the CHRA seems to be in good order, but the vanes will need to be cleaned and a new actuator obtained. Still, if anyone wants the turbocharger in this condition, noting that you get a free supply line, just let me know and we'll work something out.

So on to the next thing: the turbocharger on the spare engine I bought a few months back seems to be in good condition. I checked it and there is no play in the CHRA, it spins OK, and vacuum applied to the actuator has the desired result as well as holding vacuum. Good to go.

After these checks, I decided to first remove the turbocharger from the spare engine. That went along reasonably well. Then it was on to getting the old turbocharger off the trucklet. That was a little more problematic. I left the supply line on the replacement, so this one could come off with the supply line and everything will be OK. Most of the nuts holding the exhaust manifold on came off both instances. There are a few of them that spun out the stud instead of just the nut, but there's really no worry there.



The real fly in the ointment was the drain line from the trucklet - it insisted on bringing the fitting into the block instead of letting it go. I ended up unbolting it at the turbocharger and spun it out after the turbocharger was out of the way. It took a very large vise and a wrench to get the fitting out of the drain line. But we're OK on that one.

So now I also have a drain line. It is a little rusty, but it appears to be OK. As with the other turbocharger, just let me know.

Spare turbocharger, drain line and supply lines attached. Ready for installation.




This is the problem child, not that you can really tell anything from a photo like this.




This is the exhaust gasket coming off the trucklet. Obviously, it has seen better days. Thankfully, I have replacements at the ready.



I did manage to add to my store of fruit punch. To take the supply line out of the trucklet I pulled the hose off the lower fitting out of the head where the coolant heating glow plugs are. The hose goes to the oil cooler. About a liter or so was collected.

And I wish I could have gotten a photo of this, but both hands were rather busy:

After the wrenches I showed previously, I inserted the one to hold the fitting and put the other one on the main nut. This was on the turbocharger off the trucklet. I managed to get a lever in there to match the wrench handles - they were about 40mm apart at the ends, and when the wrench handles matched up, they just bent (not to yield). No turning of the nut and fitting against each other. Those bleeping things will not come apart. Glad I have a work around.

So the replacement turbocharger is ready for installation. Tomorrow. Before I get everything back together I will be needing to visit a good hardware store and buy a few things. No worries, it is unfortunate, but not unexpected.

Cheers!

PH
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Last edited by Powder Hound; March 25th, 2020 at 16:38.
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