99.5 golf tdi stalling-shuddering, vag-com guidance please

my second time on this great site! after having my car die and throw codes p1562, p1563 quanity upper and lower limit attained i bit the bullet and had the ip rebuilt and had injectors upgraded to 520's at dfi in oregon. at 60 k i did a t-belt service, ip pump at 70k, cleening the intake and new fuel filter, also new g plug harness which fixed my check light and car ran great, especially with the new 520's!! its been several months, but i did the install with vag-com, setting timing close to top of graph and checked something about the fuel, i cant exactly remember but since pump+inj's were done at the same time i presume pump was adj. for this. any ways new ip never fixed my long crank to start issue when warm (always starts when cold instantly) and car has funny shudder when coming to a stop with clutch in.since my batt is getting weak(original!)i replaced with a new one from vw. now at 77k my car is throwing codes p1562, sometimes p1563 and gplug light is flashing and car just dies at random. sometimes it restarts quickly, others i have to wait 10 mins or so. also when starting it revs by it self and comes back to idle or dies? but otherwise it seems to run ok, just cant trust it though. i will have vag com tool this week, and ive been reading this site for hours, but what do i want to set the quanity at and does a tuning box change what i need to set? what else do i need to set with v-com? has the shuddering prob been figured out or do i need ta make the switch?relay mod? this car is driving me nuts, any money i save on fuel just goes into repairs!!!!!!!! only your site helps me to afford this car.... thankyou- oh it does have a new 109 relay by the way..... oh, just found notes, set inj quanity at 3.0mg when i put ip pump in........

vag com direction???

i now have a vag com tool, any hints on inj. quanity and other settings to help my stalling vdub? is 3.0 way off? stock comp, 520 inj., tuning box, advanced timing.

Try to get it to 4-4.5. It might help the shudder, but probably not with the stalling issue.

If the relay 109 is new (and assumed to be functional), then something else is causing the problems, - and I'll go back to checking the grounds prior to any other approach. This would do two things: (1) clean the grounds, and (2) allow you to look at other connections - such as to the ip - that could cause running problems.

My 99.5 has or had the same problems.

1) Hard starting when warn was fixed with the Hamman Mod. There doesn't seem to be any other fix for this problem at the current time. Starts in 2 or 3 cranks now with a rather simple fix.

2) Slow down shuddering is supposed to be the quantity adjustment in the IP. There is some good info on how to adjust this using a VAG-COM system to solve. (I will be doing mine as soon as I get a cable) You should find it in the 101 section of this site.

The irratic behavior of the engine might be caused by the G79 TP Sensor or the F60 Sensor. These are the drive-by-wire sensors are can get moisture in them which makes a mess.

Hope this helps!

revs to 2200 at start-up, throwing quanity adj. codes still!!!

thanks for the replies, now have vag-com but couldnt get car started. i checked fuel cut off and it tested+looked ok. i tried a can of diesel purge and with a vacum pump on the return i got it to start. put the return line back in the snake oil and ran the can through, hoping the guy at dfis in oregon was right about something sticking in the pump. hooked the lines back to the filter, used vag to clear codes and checked timing (advanced but in specs),tested fuel shut off in outputs(car shut off), bumped iq up to 4.2 to help with shudder, decreased egr rate, and tried to mess with channel 5 for starting conditions, what should that value be? mines around 18.6 to 19.6 mg? but it starts easily when hot now but revs to 2200 then back to 900, seems to drive good.after half hour it started throwing 1 or 2 of 3 codes, 1561 1562 or 1563. i clear em and they come back. wiring and grounds look ok but i havent gotten to the ecu yet.(the one my stealer replaced on warranty a few years and broke my windshield!!!) how can i fix these codes? do i really have to send the ip in again?? at least, after purging out the system and running the car it hasnt stalled out but i still dont trust it.