Clutch question

I had been driving my 2006 Jetta TDi 5 Speed Manual JETTA when I had to stop in Traffic due to a Red light. When the light changed and the traffic began moving, I pressed Down the Clutch pedal and it went to the Floor Fast and I was unable to get it out of Gear! After several attempts it did begin to work again long enough to get it over into a safe place to park it.
It is stuck in Gear and won’t go out to Gear into anything else?
Six years ago the Clutch went out and upon the advice and Reviews I had this idparts installed. It’s worked Great until now! Can anyone tell me if there is anything that I can check to see if there May be an easy & Quick Fix, that I can possibly get it going again? I have never had any experience with the Clutch, and I was told this should Outlast the Life of the Car! I ordered the Clutch Kit 6 years ago toDay...
Any ideas would be Greatly appreciated
Products Total
1 x Clutch Release Lever (A3)(B4)(A4)(A5 BRM) $38.95
1 x Clutch Release Ball Pin $10.95
1 x SBC Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit w/SMF
- Flywheel: 21 lb. from SBC $495.00
1 x G12 Plus Plus Coolant 1.5L [Pentosin] $12.95
Sub-Total: $557.85
United Parcel Service (1 pkg x 42 lbs total) (UPS Ground): $0.00
Total: $557.85
Order Date: Thursday 0

The following may or may not have anything to do with your actual problem, but I bring it up because it might be related.

The clutch is hydraulic, sharing the hydraulic fluid of the brake system. The brake fluid, which can also be considered hydraulic clutch fluid, needs to be changed at least every two years. This requires bleeding all the old fluid out by pushing it out using the replacement, new fluid. There are 5 fittings for this, all 4 wheels and the clutch. The clutch fitting requires extra work to access, and is apparently easy to forget to bleed. Years ago, I paid the dealer to renew my brake fluid. A couple years later, when I did this job myself, it became clear that the dealer had neglected to bleed the clutch, as the fluid I got out of that fitting was disgusting. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and moisture corrodes brake parts, which can fail in any of a number of ways.

Good luck!

sptsailing said:

The following may or may not have anything to do with your actual problem, but I bring it up because it might be related.
The clutch is hydraulic, sharing the hydraulic fluid of the brake system. The brake fluid, which can also be considered hydraulic clutch fluid, needs to be changed at least every two years. This requires bleeding all the old fluid out by pushing it out using the replacement, new fluid. There are 5 fittings for this, all 4 wheels and the clutch. The clutch fitting requires extra work to access, and is apparently easy to forget to bleed. Years ago, I paid the dealer to renew my brake fluid. A couple years later, when I did this job myself, it became clear that the dealer had neglected to bleed the clutch, as the fluid I got out of that fitting was disgusting. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and moisture corrodes brake parts, which can fail in any of a number of ways.
Good luck!

Click to expand...

sptsailing,
Thank You So Much for the Valuable information
Does the Manual show the location of the Bleeder Valve on the Clutch Housing?
Thank You for the available Help. I will Try this Out in a few weeks, I just had an operation on my Neck so I’m out of commission for a few weeks. I look forward to trying this out and getting my car on the Road again. I also have to find a Good Actuator So I can get through Emissions Testing to Renew my Tags in about 7 weeks. I ordered one from Ebay and it turned out to be a Cheap Part Made a Guy in North Carolina. It works Great Except it causes the CEL Light Up & that’s the Only Trouble code that shows a Fault Code for -3 Volts On the Actuator Assembly.
I can’t wait to Change the Brake fluid & Get it Running again!
Thanks for your Help

Hydraulic Clutch

tooreal said:

sptsailing,
Thank You So Much for the Valuable information
Does the Manual show the location of the Bleeder Valve on the Clutch Housing?
Thank You for the available Help. I will Try this Out in a few weeks, I just had an operation on my Neck so I’m out of commission for a few weeks. I look forward to trying this out and getting my car on the Road again. I also have to find a Good Actuator So I can get through Emissions Testing to Renew my Tags in about 7 weeks. I ordered one from Ebay and it turned out to be a Cheap Part Made a Guy in North Carolina. It works Great Except it causes the CEL Light Up & that’s the Only Trouble code that shows a Fault Code for -3 Volts On the Actuator Assembly.
I can’t wait to Change the Brake fluid & Get it Running again!
Thanks for your Help

Click to expand...

First, I could not find a good write up about bleeding the clutch hydraulics in the VW manual, but if you simply follow the hydraulic lines from the brake fluid reservoir, you will be able to find both the clutch master and the clutch slave and bleed valve. There is a good, generic youtube video explaining how they work together, although don't actually bleed it like he suggests:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

There is another youtube video that shows how things can go wrong:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RybH9Apni38

I agree this sounds like a hydraulic problem. Here is more info on the bleeding.


https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/

sptsailing,
Thank You So Much for sending me Both Links about the location of the Bleeder Valves! I will be Sure Not to Bleed the Fluid the way That He shows.
Also the Link showing what Can Go Wrong, will be Just as Valuable for Me to See!
I thank You again for sharing your knowledge with me, I am Grateful.
Tooreal

sptsailing,
It looks like we have the same Car except my TDI Jetta Only gets at Best 42 MPG Twice a year, and typically 32 MPG HWY & City combined? I’ve only Hit 42 MPG about 10 times & 50+ MPG on 3 Rare Occasions & it gets Better Milage if I Happen to have a Lot of Weight in the Car. And Use the Thickest Air Filter Like the Winter Filter with the Extra white Mesh & Foam They Glue to the Front of the Filter, makes No Since to Me at All? A K&N Filter makes the Milage Drop even Lower!
Any idea what could be Causing that? I got a Rocket Chip Stage 1 + EGR DELETE to Try to Improve the Fuel Milage & Changed the 5th Gear so it would Drop the RPM’s Running on the Interstate, But Nothing has Really Helped Long Term to get the Fuel Consumption Down & Gotten it anywhere Near 50 MPG on a Regular Basis?

kdawg89 said:

I agree this sounds like a hydraulic problem. Here is more info on the bleeding.
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/

Click to expand...

Kdawg89,
Thank You for sending More Valuable information about flushing the system, I will Most Definitely take a Look at that Link too!

Maximizing MPG

Re your question as to what could cause poorer than expected MPG:

I have wondered about this question as well, ever since buying this car years ago. These cars are quite complicated and I still don't know exactly how to maximize the fuel economy, as they will still run quite well even with numerous things wrong with them.

In my TDI's case, there were two main things that I have concluded were the chief culprits impairing the fuel economy. First, the camshaft probably should have been replaced many years ago, as it was very badly worn in ways that caused excess soot and would have prevented good performance. Second, for years I had a vacuum leak which had something to do with excess oil in the intake and combined with excess soot to clog the intake ports and manifold.

I don't like to re-engineer complicated things unless I know exactly what I am doing, so I still have the EGR and even a DMF. I believe others here have also reported that deleting the EGR does not of and by itself improve fuel economy, rather, it primarily serves to eliminate the intake fouling or correct faulty EGR performance. I did re-engineer the intake filter housing so as to eliminate the heated air from the exhaust manifold and then remove dividing plastic so as to enable the entire air filter surface to be used with fresh air. Look at your air filter and how it fits in the housing and it will be obvious what I mean regarding that.

I just recently have installed a new Franko6 cam and am still in the initial break in period for it, so I have no new or improved mpg as yet that I can report.