Poll:Which hitch is better for a MKIV?

I have done a bunch of searching, and had trouble finding pictures of installed trailer hitches. I want one thats strong, wont cover the tow eye, and is the least noticeable when the trailer is hooked up The curt/draw tight ones go for around $130 (curt comes with drawbar) and the hidden hitch is about $145 (also has drawbar). Which do you prefer and why? If you have pictures please post them!

I have this Draw-Tite. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~24748.htm?vehicleid=20006386

My hitch is clearly visible, but I also know it's there.

I bought it because it has a plate that goes over the left frame rail, and I thought it would be stronger for this reason. I could be wrong. This bar does intrude into the exhaust outlet area. I had to notch my exhaust tip so the left frame bar could pass through. I have an aftermarket muffler with dual tips. For this reason, it's not as compatible with aftermarket exhaust, but I don't mind because I like the rigidity, although it could be placebo. I have no experience with another hitch or this one with standard exhaust. I will try to snap a shot of it when the car comes back with the Misses. The link has good shots of the hitch, and an install video. I actually siliconed the holes under the heads of the bolts instead of sealing afterward. I thought the sealant would help keep the exposed metal from rusting.

I installed a hidden hitch on my Golf a few months back. The name is really a misnomer because, well, the hitch isn't hidden, it's plainly visible. Installing it with the stock muffler still on was a major PITA. I'll post some pics later when I'm out of work.

I have installed a Draw-Tite on my Jetta A3, and my brothers A4 Golf, the A4 was fantastic and did not require a work around for the muffler. However it did require a single hole to be drilled in the spare wheel well as well as removal of the rear bumber cover to expose the mounting points (easy even for a novice).

I liked that the Draw-Tite made use of the factory mounting points so this eliminated the need to drill any holes that weren't part of the original design.

I have pulled some pretty heavy stuff with my Class 1 hitch.

I would STRONGLY suggest using a good quality rust preventative spray and coating in all the holes to prevent rust on bolts and attach points. I also sprayed a rust coating on the hitch to protect it from abrasion and the formation of rust due to scratches.

One thing to be aware of, is that the hitch does create a "lower" point on the car, so backing up curbs with a trailer in tow WILL result in a dragging on the curb or pavement...just use caution so you don't damge the hitch, otherwise this has not been an issue.

Another thing to consider is upgrading your rear springs and struts. I installed some springs from NAPA that increased the rear height of the car and also went with some very stiff rear struts. This really improves the stability of the car!

As always use common sense when it comes to braking, stock brakes are "OK" but when you add #1,000+ pounds behind you, triple the distance you think you may need for stopping.

Lastly, always load the trailer with a front weight bias! The heavier on the tonge the better and more stable the trailer and the car. I can't tell you how many times this saved me due to swerving to miss something on the road.

DB

I have a Hidden Hitch and with the plastic cover installed it blends into the rear valence extremely well. Also no issues pulling my oldmans 15ft Legend tiller...

Here's a table for loading a trailer: I use a cheap bathroom scale although there are ones you can buy specifically for measuring tongue weight.
RECOMMENDED HITCH WEIGHT PERCENTAGES

TYPE OF TRAILER
PERCENT OF WT. ON TONGUE
Single Axle
10% minimum/15% maximum
Tandem Axle
9% to 15%
Travel Trailer
11% to 12%
5th Wheel
15% to 25%

from: http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

I installed the Curt hitch and really like it. Tow two different small wooden boats and an Aerotow utility trailer.





http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=210729&highlight=curt

There's more above than you ever wanted to know about the install. It does interfere with the tow loop a bit, but I don't see that as a serious issue. You could always grind off part of the plate to regain full access to the loop.



I use both the included "upcurved" ballmount insert, and a purchased straight one -- the latter scrapes a bit more but the Aerotow trailer sits very low to the ground and needs the level insert.

I went with the Curt ( U-haul ) because it was the highest and tightest to the bumper. Short of the Bosal, this is the most stealthy.

weasel said:

I went with the Curt ( U-haul ) because it was the highest and tightest to the bumper. Short of the Bosal, this is the most stealthy.

Click to expand...

To that effect, could members please post a side view demonstrating this on the various hitches they have installed? For instance, a close up of Thorne's second picture.

Or maybe there is already a thread with this type of info...

Thorne,

That is a beautiful BEAUTIFUL little boat. I would love to have something made like that.

(Old Towne makes a canoe in that traditional style...for about $4k...I bought the composite for $400 lol)

I errr... Santa bought the curt+wiring today...will post install pics! It was like $146 out the door for everything

Thanks - it is a Cosine Wherry that I picked up on Craigslist for a song.
http://www.luckhardt.com/dory2.html

Baaacccck to the topic -

Here's the best I can do. One with the included Curt curved ball mount insert, one with the straight one I purchased at a hardware store.

I expect that all of the under-bumper hitches have about the same clearance with the ball-mount-inserts removed. But unless you are willing to pull the rear bumper to mount something to the frame, you don't have a lot of choice...

Bosal. A little pricier but no drilling and no messing with the tow-hook. Almost completely invisible when not in-use.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60842

Drivbiwire said:

<snip>

Lastly, always load the trailer with a front weight bias! The heavier on the tonge the better and more stable the trailer and the car. I can't tell you how many times this saved me due to swerving to miss something on the road.

DB

Click to expand...

From my personal experience: GREAT ADVICE.

I did $10K in damage by moving 200 lbs from the front of my trailer to the rear in 1999. Lost control of a fishtailing trailer in a very gentile, sweeping merge of two freeways at "reasonable" speed. Like 55 mph! - Really.

Nobody got hurt, just bent metal. on the trailer and the SUV. The old dog had a much harder time than me walking the 3 miles home. All in all, a good CHEAP lesson. Can remember other places where this mistake could have been a multiple fatality.

Only true up to a point. Beyond that, you'll negatively affect the handling in other ways. There's websites that give information on calculating the front loading and your hitch will have a maximum tongue weight too.

I purchased and installed the curt hitch, very nice! I changed all the bolts/nuts to stainless steel to prevent rust and it was a very easy install. I liked the curved ball mount but the one for the jetta sedan apparently does not come with that. It came with a standard drop/raise bar. Ill post pictures soon for you guys.

Are stainless fasteners strong enough in this application?

Richy_T said:

Bosal. A little pricier but no drilling and no messing with the tow-hook. Almost completely invisible when not in-use.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60842

Click to expand...

+1

When OEM (there's even a slot already open for the ball when not in use) is available, I can't think of a valid reason not to go that route... and if/when when I sell my truck, it will be replaced with a Bosal hitch and a trailer.... but I agree it's considerably more expensive, but is available:

http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=107&products_id=550&osCsid=d5684bf4cb5e43ac31c3524a5ec7e68f

The biggest downside seems to be in using standard receiver accessories. I plan to fix this by welding up a receiver adapter.

Ian F said:

The biggest downside seems to be in using standard receiver accessories. I plan to fix this by welding up a receiver adapter.

Click to expand...

I'm still waiting for them to manufacture one.

Afterlooking att all the options for a hitch I decided to build and install my own 2" recieiver hitch.

Total cost: 6" reciever tube $14.99, 2 x 2 x 1/4" angle $19.99, 7 way trailer wire connection $27, license plate frame from salvage yard $20, License plate light bolts $29, 4 7/16 grade 8 bolts and nuts washers and lock washers $2.50, ball and mount $19.99.

total: around $135

Here are some pics:
This is the car after the hitch install:


This is the frame that I fabricated and mounted to the car frame:


I welded 7/16" grade 8 nuts to the 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle that is inserted 20" into the frame rails.


Then I bolted themto the fram and used 2 1/2" peices of scrap angle as washers or reinforcing brackets from underneath.


This is the rear drivers side bolt which I bolted through the rear muffler hanger's rear bolt hole. I had to drill out the hole on the bracket as well as all the way through the frame to accomoodate ther larger 7/16" bolts


I had to trim the heat sheild to fit the angle reinforcing bracet above the muffler:





I used a flip down license plate frame from a 1996 chevrolet caprice and turned it 180 degrees. This moved out the plate 3/4" and the factory lights were not aligned anymore so I had to use license plate light bolts from a motorcycle shop to still have legal license plate lights.
Here are some finished pictures:

Awesome! Too bad I dont have the welding skills for that

Nice work brenny!!

What kept you from centering the receiver on the car?

I hate you ....

I did not center the receiver hitch on the car because I was limited to the area I had to work with for an opening. The opening is very close to the size of the license plate and I had to fit the 7 pole trailer wire receptacle in the opening also.

I will never plan on towing a travel trailer (which is what the 7 pole is intended mostly for) but all of my trailers are wired for that plug. I plan on using my 5 x 10 ramp gate trailer with my golf.

I have always wandered why more Golf owners do not go this route. This is a beautiful job. I wish the lecense plate on my jetta was on the bumper so I could do this.

yup, Brenny, that is AWESOME!!!

this is the hitch i have, i believe the company is SWG. the sticker came off years ago, dealer installed the hitch when the car was purchased new. i do remember though the company is based out of the province of quebec. typical rating of 1000gtw and 100lbs on the receiver.

i like it quite a bit, used it for a jack point many times, espically recently since my car is lowered and my standard 2.5ton hydrolic jack wont fit under the rear side rails. plus it makes jacking the rear of the car alot easier, as you can see in the pictures. i have the jack in the middle of the hitch and placed the two jackstands as pictured. it is attached on the drivers side with a plate that attaches to frame rail, and passengers side it bolts though the tow loop. yes this blocks off the loop, but the hitch itself replaces the need for a tow loop. and as you can see there is a bar that continues out and attaches to the spare wheel tub in several places. and now that i'm lowered i really like this hitch because it doubles as a skidplate , and for the reason mentioned above.

pictures:

these two were taken when i was sanding down and re-painting it just before winter.




here's an older pic i found to show you the mounts on the spare wheel tub. (you can see why i needed to repaint it)