Rear Caliper Too Far Out?

I have a 2010 Jetta TDI & I am trying to do a rear brake job on it. The driver side pad was worn all the way down to the metal so the caliper is all the way out & I can't seem to get it to retract. I ordered the metalnerd tool which is more robust than the one I used for years on all my 4wd trucks, I will try that once I get it. I can rotate the piston so I know it's not frozen, but cannot get it to retract, it's stuck in the out position, I used a long ratchet on the brake tool, it bottoms out & I would have to force it to get further but it's at the point I'm going to damage either the tool or crack/damage the caliper if I try to go further. I released the ebrake and opened the fluid reservoir. Did I miss something? I did everything the Bentley manual specified. Is there any way to retract this piston if it's too far out?

rear brake pads, piston issue

Hi.
I just replaced my rear pads on my 09. I also had trouble compressing the piston. I always had luck using large C-clamps. I even bought a $8.00 disc brake tool and it couldn't compress the piston. You did the right thing- open brake fluid reservoir, E-brake off.
So..... I borrowed the OEM #27111 Disc Brake Tool kit from AutoZone. Worked so well I went online and ordered one for myself. If you can get one of these, it works awesome. Just Google "OEM 27111".
My rear pads were worn down to about 20%. Front pads are about 50%. Currently have 58K miles. I just bought OEM pads from my VW dealer.

The rear caliper piston must be rotating while being compressed. If you just try to compress the piston without rotating it, you will damage it (I'm not sure if you can compress it without turning it at the same time). To make things easy, open the cap from brake fluid reservoir. Also, keep in mind the the caliper bolts are one time use only.

The OEM 27111 Tool kit that Mac is talking about does rotate the piston as it pushes it in.

I was also worried when he said C-Clamp, I wasn't quite sure how he did it. But it looks like he used the right tool.

I also used that autozone tool on my MkIV and it is the same procedure.

Have the late MkV models been rid of the early MkV problem of the parking brake cable being too tight from the factory?

Jnitrofish said:

Have the late MkV models been rid of the early MkV problem of the parking brake cable being too tight from the factory?

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Nope... rear left inner pad is dragging on my TDI.

Okay, then that is likely the reason the OP is having trouble winding back the caliper. On all my cars I have had to adjust the parking brake cable before winding back, I just use a dremel tool to cut an access into the center console.

Sort of like whats in this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=223592

I hope I didn't damage the piston. In all my previous cars, a C-clamp or wood clamp would squeeze the piston back in with no trouble. I didn't know the VW piston rotated back in. Seems odd, but oh well. I gave it one heck of a try on my 2009 before I stopped and went to AutoZone to borrow that brake tool. Once I got that, it was a piece of cake. Piston rotated (compressed) back in. "in like flynn"

FYI... eBay sells the same or similar kit for about $30. I paid $40 from Amazon with free shipping. Can't wait to get it so I can replace the pads on my wife's Accord and then replace my front pads next month. Now, a brake pad replacement will only take me an hour instead of 3 hours.

PCTechman said:

I have a 2010 Jetta TDI & I am trying to do a rear brake job on it. The driver side pad was worn all the way down to the metal so the caliper is all the way out & I can't seem to get it to retract. I ordered the metalnerd tool which is more robust than the one I used for years on all my 4wd trucks, I will try that once I get it. I can rotate the piston so I know it's not frozen, but cannot get it to retract, it's stuck in the out position, I used a long ratchet on the brake tool, it bottoms out & I would have to force it to get further but it's at the point I'm going to damage either the tool or crack/damage the caliper if I try to go further. I released the ebrake and opened the fluid reservoir. Did I miss something? I did everything the Bentley manual specified. Is there any way to retract this piston if it's too far out?

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Open the bleeder screw and then try pushing the piston in.

Brake adjustments

To save me from a headache and wasting some hard-earned dinero (ie not going to the dealer), what are some basic steps for checking the brake system? I replaced my rear pads, but now I notice a "creak" sound every now and then. The sound you hear when you set your emergency brake or when you try and drive with the emergency brake on. Before I found out that you have to turn the brake piston back in, I tried to compress it with a clamp. Is it possible I damaged the piston? Before I put my tire back on (after new pads installed) I pressed the brake pedal a couple times so I know the piston moved back out since the caliper tightened up against the disc and caliper assembly. The disc rotated freely also, so I know the pads are compressing/releasing. Is there more than one emergency brake adjustment? Should I have used some lubricant on the piston? Or could the noise be from new pads? Any DIY steps you can share would be great... thanks.

Sounds are tough over the internet......only lube I've used is on the pads (back) and anti-seize on the hub (rotor).

So we're not replacing rotors at every change? They'll last more than one set of pads on the markV platform?

EJS-
My rotors were in good shape. In fact, I don't think I've ever replaced disc rotors on any car I've owned. Just pads. Perhaps I don't keep my cards long enough or my wife and I are easy on brakes. Or lucky!

MacBuckeye said:

EJS-
My rotors were in good shape. In fact, I don't think I've ever replaced disc rotors on any car I've owned. Just pads. Perhaps I don't keep my cards long enough or my wife and I are easy on brakes. Or lucky!

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Glad to hear it, just used to the VW mantra of "replace both at the same time" (which is I've done for no other reason than "should" - DOH!)..............glad to hear we can skip one.

EJS said:

Glad to hear it, just used to the VW mantra of "replace both at the same time" (which is I've done for no other reason than "should" - DOH!)..............glad to hear we can skip one.

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The reason you replace both is because on European cars the rotors are generally thinner that American /Asian cars. They are to thin to resurface, so you replace.

I'm as cheap as the next guy, but brakes are important, no way I'd slap pads on old rotors that weren't turned - half assed job to save $70.

TwoTone said:

The reason you replace both is because on European cars the rotors are generally thinner that American /Asian cars. They are to thin to resurface, so you replace.

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That's what I've heard.........I know they're too thin to resurface but when I've taken them off they didn't look like they needed it - I just went with "do them both". As you mention GAP sells the rear rotors for around $30 = why not.