fan not working cars overheating

Hello, I have a 2006 jetta tdi, and both of my fans is not working, i replaced the fans and they are still not working. i dont have the diagram for the car so i couldnt change out the fuse but i went through the fuses and couldnt find one that was burned out. also I replace the thermostat, but i have a leak on the thermostat hosing i think it might be still leaking but i cant tell because its been raining alot.


Dose anyone have a fuse diagram for a 2006 jetta tdi, and dose anyone know where the, Engine Cooling Fan Module, or another reason my fans are not working?

Thanks in advance.

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Check your radiator/condenser fan operation NOW

Just shotgun replacement of fans is a bit unwise.

Define "overheating". Temp gauge goes over half? Coolant boils out of pressure release in cap/bottle?

And keep in mind, on the diesels the fans rarely ever need to operate to keep the engine temp in check, because your engine really only makes that much heat when it is under load (driving) so you won't even know if your fans are working or not. In your car, the only time generally the fans are even needed is for the A/C operation, in which case they'll come on low as soon as the refrigerant pressure is sufficient to warrant them, and will ramp up speed as dictated by the high side pressure sensor.

Oh, and the cooling fan module is integral with the left (large) cooling fan motor on your car.

Overheating

It overheats like goes toward the end of the tempature gauge, and the fans not turning on at all when I have the ac on full blast and car is over heating, and yes stream vents when cap is off.

OK, check this:

The big brown wire going to the left cooling fan should be ground all the time, and that is grounded at one of the ground points behind the left headlamp, near the air cleaner corner of the engine bay.

The big red wire should be power all the time, and is fed by a 50A fuse in the main bus bar at the front of the underhood fuse box, position #3 (which is I think the 3rd from the left as you are looking at it, with #1 being the only big 200A job from the alternator).

The small black w/ red wire at the fan connection is powered, via the power supply relay in the Central Electronics box, when the key is switched on. That relay powers other items, too, so it is probably fine but perhaps the fuse inside (#24, 10A) has blown.

The fourth wire is the signal wire from the Engine Controller. A scan tool will tell you if the Engine sees the correct coolant temp and A/C request to turn the fans on.

How about a broken water pump impeller?

Yeah when my engine smashed into the fan, the 50amp fuse blew...do check that one.

Thermostat stuck shut???

Id say fans or fuse/fuse box. Water pump shouldnt cause no fans when AC is on.

It overheats like goes toward the end of the tempature gauge, and the fans not turning on at all when I have the ac on full blast and car is over heating, and yes stream vents when cap is off.

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Agreed, and in rereading this post he may be saying there is coolant flowing to the bottle from the overflow hose.

Oilhammer has done well to explain the obvious things to check with regards to the fans. Being that these are diagnostic capable as well, check for codes in the engine computer and see if it has proper communication to the fans.

While you're there, you could monitor coolant temperature values both at the coolant exit from the engine and the thermostat inlet from the lower radiator hose. That can make it easy to monitor how well the thermostat is working.

Measured value block 62 and I believe 64 will show this on the BRM. As the engine warms up, field 2 will climb accordingly. As the value in field 2 approaches 87 C and a little above, you should see the values in field 3 start to climb as the thermostat opens and begins to allow some of the cooler coolant from the radiator into the engine.

Or you can do this manually and just put your hand on the lower radiator hose under the hood. It should remain cool to the touch until the thermostat opens as engine temps approach 87 C and above. If the engine temps continue to climb above 95-100 C and the lower hose remains cool, the thermostat is simply not opening.

Also, you should see, even when cold, a constant stream of coolant returning to the reservoir from the small upper hose. If you do not see any coolant, the water pump may not be pumping any coolant. If you still have the factory plastic impeller pump in the engine, the impeller may have separated and is no longer moving coolant...

miningman said:

Thermostat stuck shut???

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Could be. My fans never ran during the summer, only when the AC is on. When my fuse for the fan blew, I drove without the fan operational 8.5 hours to Ohio. AC works when the car is moving, no fan needed there. In winter our tdi fans should never come on.