Normal function of Golf hatch lock

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
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Island near Vancouver
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2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
The last five years with my previous Golf and then the Jetta Wagon before that, I had used VDS-PRO to change the function so that the hatch unlocked, and stayed unlocked, in sync with the doors; no more having to pull the key fob out just to open the hatch. If the car's doors were unlocked, the hatch was unlocked; and when I locked the car doors, the hatch likewise locked - GREAT tweak!

Now I have a new (to me) 2003 Golf, which came to me with a non-functioning hatch lock. Key worked, but nothing from the remote. So, I did the VDS-PRO thing on it and still nothing...and then started taking things apart and found that the rear wiper washer had "washed" the locking electronics into oblivion.

So now I have that all fixed up (electronics all good) and I'm not sure the hatch is working....properly. But maybe it is and I just misremember.

When I hit the "hatch unlock" button on the remote, is the hatch supposed to unlock and stay unlocked? Or is it supposed to unlock, and then you have about 0.8sec. to open it before it's locked itself again?

Mine is the latter....and it sucks.
 

Hwycruiser

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TX
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Mine locks itself after a delay of about 2+ minutes, long enough to get out of the car and open the hatch before it locks. The open front driver’s door affects how quickly it locks. Have never timed it, just hear the lock when it activates.
 

JB05

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Il.USA
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Mine is the latter; it will lock itself if the hatch is not opened right away.
The key does not open because it seized from lack of use. I tried and tried recently when I had the liner off to change the left side wiring loom a couple of months ago.
 
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Rrusse11

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Jan 23, 2014
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PA Deutsch Country
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2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
Nuje,
Mine is like Hwycruiser, you've got some time to open the hatch.
Have you thoroughly cleaned the whole hatch mechanism?
Too bad you're not closer, I'd love to have your Pro tweak.
Cheers
 

csstevej

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north nj
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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I’m having issues with mine as well.
When it used to work I had about 20 seconds before it would relock it self.

Problem I have now is it will unlock and never go back to lock mode.
I now have it unplugged and must use my key to get into my hatch space.

The issue I also have is the actuators that I have been finding are all pulled up,tight against the body........ but for the door to be locked the actuator needs to be extended....
Are your guys the same?

Otherwise I’ll start a different thread.
 

Nuje

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2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Have you thoroughly cleaned the whole hatch mechanism? Too bad you're not closer, I'd love to have your Pro tweak.
Just FYI, you can apparently get the same desired functionality by tapping into the wiring that drives the rear door locks. There's a thread or two here somewhere. I'd prefer to do it all with computer coding just 'cause. :)

I've taken the servo out and complete replaced the hatch latch, so I know that's all good and clean. The rest of it all moves smoothly and freely and looks clean enough now (I hit it with some cleaner and then spray lube and then air).

As for the actuators, mine is the same, csstevej: Default position has the arm retracted. I actually reversed the wires to see if maybe that'd fix things....and it does (but not really). Instead of the near-instant unlock-->re-lock, it unlocks and then stays there; won't re-lock when I lock the doors. I get the confirmation "beep", but I can still open the hatch with the handle.

Weather looks decent today, so I'll play around with it some more; probably reset the CCM bits and bytes back to where they originally were and see what I get there and then start trying things.

(BTW, for those not familiar, VDS-PRO is just a super-simple (as in verrrrrrry low-level computer) DOS-based program that works with the oldest serial-port-based Ross-Tech knock-off cable you can find.)
Screenshot of the UI:
 
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Nuje

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Ok - so now I can render this thread that I started all but moot.

After reading (yet again) through some key posts in the VDS-PRO mega thread, I found I was tweaking the correct bytes, but just not correctly.

(For my own future reference if nothing else....), addresses 04361-04363 inclusive, enable using key fob to open/close windows. I had previously done that - and numbers matched up with previous cars.

Addresses 04352-04354 inclusive, were the ones needed to allow for opening of hatch.
The trick I was missing was to take the existing values and make sure bit0 for each of those bytes was set as 0.
So, existing coding had those three addresses set at 136 (decimal) = 10001000 (binary). Changing bit0 to a 0 made them 00001000 (binary) = 8 (decimal).

Once I did that, the hatch’s lock status now matches up with the doors: if the doors are unlocked, the hatch is unlocked. And same if the doors are locked = hatch is locked and alarm is armed.
 

Rrusse11

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Lol, "simple DOS" it may be, but it just leaves me with a glazed look.
I can believe that you're changing the coding, and what that does, it's how
you get there that has me flummoxed. I suspect years of programming/
computer experience.


So, does your hatch work now?
 

Nuje

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Yeah - trust me....it was a learning experience for me! I have absolutely zero computer programming education or experience - all of that gibberish that I spouted up there is purely the result of being stubborn enough to think that if someone else could figure it out....I could take learn from that and apply to my own car.

Before I found that thread (and the one about editing the EEPROM of the instrument cluster to fix the coolant temp gauge) bit and bytes made about as much sense to me as quarks and neutrinos (that is, none.)

Working in VCDS on the newer cars has also helped educate me, too, in that there's "long coding" in each module (e.g. Engine, or ABS) - there's a "long coding helper" in which you get checkboxes of turning features on or off...and each checkbox corresponds to a "1" or a "0" in one of eight different "switches" (bits). So, four things "on" and four things "off" would be 11110000 - and if you convert that binary number to hexadecimal, you get "F0".

If it was 10011001, that converts to the byte value being "99". (No way I can do those conversions - those examples all come from an online calculator).

Put a few of those options together and you get coding for my steering wheel which looks like this: 64 10
First byte: 0x64 (notation for "64 in hexadecimal) = 01100100 - which would correspond to off, on, on, off, off, on, off, off for features like volume controls; cruise control on steering wheel; adaptive cruise control; lane assist controls; etc. Second set of eight options (0x10) would be 00010000 - so just that one option would be "on" and all the others would be "off".

And it's only because of the information and personal help I've received from members of this forum (and a couple others, but mostly TDIclub) that I have level of understanding.
(For the record, I've probably made a hundred mis-statements in terminology and whatnot with that attempted "explanation"....like I said, my knowledge is very rudimentary, so any comp sci major I'm sure is rolling their eyes if not ROTFL at that....but it's how I make sense of it all. :) )

And yes - hatch works EXACTLY! like I wanted it to! Now I just have to replace the 01M with the 5sp, R&R the turbo, replace the blown airbag, install a stereo....and I should be good to go. :D
 
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94cobra2615

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ohio
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2002 Black Wagon
Id like my hatch on my 03 wagon to be able to open with just the microswitch on the hatch and not have to use the button on the door when doors are unlocked.

Would this work this way?
 

Nuje

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Yep - that's one of the things I do with every Mk4 Wagon or Golf that comes to me for work. I show that to owner, plus the windows up/down with the key fob, and they're pretty impressed.
(To be honest, though, the hatch-unlock-with-doors mod is, by far, the more appreciated. :))
 

94cobra2615

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ohio
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2002 Black Wagon
Ill have to read up on how to do this.

Is the only way to do this is with vdspro? I have a vcds cable. Does this require a different cable? I assume the vds software is downloadable?
 

Nuje

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Yeah, VCDS cable doesn't work - it's too "high-level"; VDS-PRO is speaking like one level above machine-language.

As such, USB is way too "advanced" a technology for the program to utilize, and thus the need for going with a serial-port cable. My cable, I think, is a Ross-Tech v1 knock-off from at least a decade ago.

The second challenge, then, is finding a laptop with a serial (RS232) port that still works. Mine is a Thinkpad T23 - "Made for Windows XP" - came out in 2003.

Find those things, and the rest of it I can help you figure out. :)
 

94cobra2615

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ohio
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I used to mess with an AEM standalone engine management system on a twin turbo mustang i used to have and the system used only a serial plug.

I used a USB to serial adapter and it worked good. Not sure if an adapter like that would work on the ross techv1 cable?
 

Nuje

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Those USB-->serial adapters were always finicky with me (on other programs).

The issue is that you can't run VDS-PRO in a DOS window, even in WinXP. And I don't think you could even choose RESTART IN MS-DOS. You had to boot directly into DOS - so no way to load USB drivers.

This is what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.ca/409-1-Vag-com-Obd2-Diagnostic-Cable/dp/B005KXLBNW
Maybe you can find one on ebay (?).

Indeed you can, albeit in the UK (and not cheap).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKL-COM-po...able-with-FT232RL-OBD-OBD1-OBD2-/162779503008

And I should mention here to anyone reading along: Do NOT use this as a Ross-Tech cable - go buy the real deal. They put a pile of work into developing a tool that we enthusiasts can use without laying down multiple thousands of dollars for OEM software, so do them the courtesy of buying their official products.

And if that's still insufficient, the software that comes along with this cable almost guaranteed to be loaded viruses and other malware.
 
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pkhoury

That guy with the goats
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Nov 30, 2010
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Medina, TX
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2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Nuje

Windows XP is based on the NT kernel., So you cannot use "MS-DOS mode" per se.

One option that *might* work for modern computers is VMWare Workstation. You could run the program in DOS, and there are translations from virtual hardware to physical hardware. I don't know if that would work though.

As for serial ports, my choice has always been Keyspan USB adapters (Keyspan is owned by TrippLite).
 

wonneber

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An option for booting a laptop to DOS might be getting a DOS ISO image and burning it to a CD or small USB thumb drive.

Choose the boot menu when you power up & choose which you want to boot.

With the thumb drive you can edit files in Windows s/a config.sys and autoexec.bat or the old edit.com program.

I've thought about DOS in a virtual machine but that may not be an option for older versions of Windows.
 

Nuje

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Yep - that's what I use. I have a Win98 start-up CD on which I've also included the VDS-PRO executable.

Make sure serial port is enabled in BIOS, as well as CD-ROM being the first boot device, then choose "COMMAND PROMPT with CD-ROM SUPPORT" at the Win98 boot option list.
 
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