My redline is at 4500..., and this motor dies off pretty quick past about 34-3500, just runs out of fueling, it's being cut back, due to the tiny turbo on this car.I have broken in the three I own, the same way. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501
Basically when new, (zero to app 1,000 miles) you really want to be VERY gentle with the speeds (max 65 mph) and be slightly to moderately aggressive with the RPM (up to 3/4 of red line). It is probably just as important to do higher rev DE celeration. The real reason for that is to allow for the components to get used to each other slowly. This allows for longevity for tires, alignment, springs, struts, shocks, brake pads and rotors, etc. The varied rpm and acceleration and deceleration allow for proper valve seating.
So if red line is 5,100 rpm (read your specific owners manual) then it is more than safe to take it to 4,000 rpm. So the bottom line is to keep the rpms varied and to use the gears to keep the speeds down. After the tires "seat" if you will (300 to 500 miles), then it is more than fine to take it to higher mph (and to rpm red line) "romps."
No, Pete's information was applicable to turbo diesels and was actually gotten more from VW OEM sources. You can easily Email him to verify.My redline is at 4500..., and this motor dies off pretty quick past about 34-3500, just runs out of fueling, it's being cut back, due to the tiny turbo on this car.
I also spent a portion of my career working for Brush Research Manufacturing, maker of the Flex Hone, or dingle ball hone, which is what provides the plateaued sealing surface for the bore that you want the rings to seat in. Stay far away from redline in a new daily driver motor, it's not a racing engine, huge difference. The info provided by Pete was by a racing motor motorcyclist rebuilder. It does not apply to today's TDI motors, which have laser honed bores, and have the rings seat almost instantly. It's the rest of the drive train that has to wear in and burnish the parts against each other that you want to keep power output down in a new motor and drive train... E = VM2... that squared portion of the equation is the killer, and it's directly related to reciprocating parts and the rpms going up, squares the amount of load exponentially, based on the rpms. Keep the rpms low, when breaking things in. Better to treat your new car like an instrument instead of a tool during the break in process.
Keeping rpms down is also one of the reasons Bosch recommends running very low wear scar fuel in their injector pumps and HPFP's, under 400 micron, for the first couple of fuel tanks of fuel for run in.
You do want to load the motor up, with some turbo boost, but at lower rpms. City driving or mountain roads and highway canyon driving is probably the best way to go for proper break in on these motors. It does it all for the motor, without the driver having to over think it. Still, no canyon racing...
That's a nice chunk of break-in mileage you did. I just brought my Passat home last Friday, but it was only 140 miles back to CT. Drivebiwire's break-in procedure is a good guide, as it's basically commonsense but still read the owner's manual. As far as engine temp goes, you should try to limit rpms until the engine is up to operating temp. Turn the cruise control off and vary engine speeds. Around town, I'll shift down to 3rd or 4th gear to keep the rpms up around 2k, otherwise the engine is barely above idle otherwise.how should I break in the tdi engine driving home from on the highway for 400 miles I read the article from the forum to break in a engine.
A little confussed about the engine temp about Reving the engine.
Regardless of the wear scar of the fuel that you get on first fill up, it is very, very easy to bring the wear scar number down. Add 32 to 48 oz of your favorite biodiesel to bring the first few tanks up to B2, and your wear scar micron reading, according to the Spicer report, will be below 300 microns, even on untreated basic rot gut dieselNo, Pete's information was applicable to turbo diesels and was actually gotten more from VW OEM sources. You can easily Email him to verify.
I am glad you agree with almost all that I am saying. So for example with your red line @ 4,500 rpm, 75% of that would be 3,375 rpm. Since you do not indicate what low rpm are, my reference is pretty easy to see as a marker. Also depending on ones oem owners manual, max torque power is delivered between app 1,750 rpm to whatever ones manual indicates. 75% is usually what max HP is delivered @.
Unless you can verify the fuel source and certifications, it is pretty hard to use low scar fuel, with any certainly. Anywhere in the 15 or so states and one foreign country I have fueled in, barely know the cetane ratings, let alone post or know what the low scar less than 400 micron standards are. All the best.
Regardless of the wear scar of the fuel that you get on first fill up, it is very, very easy to bring the wear scar number down. Add 32 to 48 oz of your favorite biodiesel to bring the first few tanks up to B2, and your wear scar micron reading, according to the Spicer report, will be below 300 microns, even on untreated basic rot gut diesel
I added a qt of biodiesel and 6 oz of Powerservice silver in the lot before I even drove the car off the lot in my 2012 passat.
It actually pulls quite strong up to 4000, where the HP peak starts to fall off rapidly.My redline is at 4500..., and this motor dies off pretty quick past about 34-3500, just runs out of fueling, it's being cut back, due to the tiny turbo on this car.
I also spent a portion of my career working for Brush Research Manufacturing, maker of the Flex Hone, or dingle ball hone, which is what provides the plateaued sealing surface for the bore that you want the rings to seat in. Stay far away from redline in a new daily driver motor, it's not a racing engine, huge difference. The info provided by Pete was by a racing motor motorcyclist rebuilder. It does not apply to today's TDI motors, which have laser honed bores, and have the rings seat almost instantly. It's the rest of the drive train that has to wear in and burnish the parts against each other that you want to keep power output down in a new motor and drive train... E = VM2... that squared portion of the equation is the killer, and it's directly related to reciprocating parts and the rpms going up, squares the amount of load exponentially, based on the rpms. Keep the rpms low, when breaking things in. Better to treat your new car like an instrument instead of a tool during the break in process.
Keeping rpms down is also one of the reasons Bosch recommends running very low wear scar fuel in their injector pumps and HPFP's, under 400 micron, for the first couple of fuel tanks of fuel for run in.
You do want to load the motor up, with some turbo boost, but at lower rpms. City driving or mountain roads and highway canyon driving is probably the best way to go for proper break in on these motors. It does it all for the motor, without the driver having to over think it. Still, no canyon racing...
I am doing the same for a new A3 TDI: 32 oz B100 and PS per tank. Have access to premium D2 but am waiting for nozzle adaptor for high flow truck pump. So far so good.Regardless of the wear scar of the fuel that you get on first fill up, it is very, very easy to bring the wear scar number down. Add 32 to 48 oz of your favorite biodiesel to bring the first few tanks up to B2, and your wear scar micron reading, according to the Spicer report, will be below 300 microns, even on untreated basic rot gut diesel
I added a qt of biodiesel and 6 oz of Powerservice silver in the lot before I even drove the car off the lot in my 2012 passat.
Tape the seams on the mirrors, where the two parts, top and bottom, join together, with a strip of blue tape.... if the noise goes away, squeeze some Alex painting caulk in the seams and with a wet finger, create a flush surface between the 2 parts. That should solve your problem.thanks for the advice guy brought it home, AVG 49 MPG fropm NYC to outerbanks off NC , Great car, I do hear a little noise form the side mirrors , i would like a fix though
49mpg average? On a new Passat? Are you going by what the display said, or have you done the math to calculate tank average?thanks for the advice guy brought it home, AVG 49 MPG fropm NYC to outerbanks off NC , Great car, I do hear a little noise form the side mirrors , i would like a fix though
The two are almost always within 2 MPG of each other...49mpg average? On a new Passat? Are you going by what the display said, or have you done the math to calculate tank average?
Would you be so kind as to show some VW supporting documentation recommending that? Otherwise, try reading your owners manual, until you start warrantying the motors VW makes.Drive it like you stole it. If it breaks, VW will fix it. If it doesn't, you conditioned the motor the right way. Don't baby the motor but don't abuse it either.