DMF failure and replacement, 06 manual BRM

My DMF experience:

06 Manual BRM Jetta sedan. I bought it in Feb. 2010 with about 50,000 on it. I noticed the engine seemed to rattle and shake a couple months ago, but attributed it to my just becoming more sensitive as opposed to the engine actually shaking more. Starting up one time, it began rattling like a heat shield was hitting another metal piece. It had about 74,000 miles on it now. Alarmed, I brought it to the VW dealer in Lakeland, FL, where I happened to be at the time. I had found an online coupon for a free diagnostic analysis there.

The dealer advised me that my fuel pressure was low due to the fuel filter, but they would replace it for about $100. Oh yeah, and my DMF was bad. They quoted $3000 to replace it. I asked if it was drivable, as I was 60 miles from home. They said yes, but not for long. I let them replace the filter for their trouble.

Shopping around, I finally settled on a German Auto repair shop in Safety Harbor, FL, where I live. The mechanics there found that I had a Sachs DMF. Since I am not an automotive engineer, I decided to keep it stock, so it was replaced with a Sachs DMF. Since it was apart anyway, I opted to replace the clutch, main seal and transmission seal as well, even though there were no indications that these were a problem. The mechanic changed the oil as well. Total damage was about $2000, but hey, I now have a Jetta TDI with new flywheel, clutch and seals!

The car runs much better now, shifting much smoother, with no vibration, great power, etc. It feels like a brand new car. As usual, it is great to drive this car.

I loaned it to my son for a 550 mile round trip. He loves it too, but he got only 38.5 mpg due to excessive speed on the interstate, plus running the AC full blast in the 99 degree Florida heat wave.

I am thinking of putting a trailer hitch on it, but my boat rig probably weighs over 1,500 lbs, so that may be a bad idea.

You should have gone with a SMF. I've heard (not my experience, though) that sometimes replacement DMFs failed in 3k-5k miles, some of them began rattling again after some time, while others hold up for much longer time than stock ones. It's just like a lottery.

I thought about it and decided to stick with stock. The DMF is designed to absorb mechanical shock, which reduces stress and wear on other components, like the transmission gears. Since I am not an automotive engineer, I decided to keep it stock and hope the replacement Sachs DMF is not as crappy as the one it replaced. I might be wrong, but I also might be right. Who knows for sure?

To be honest, if I were you, I would surely have gone with LUK. Some people say it's more reliable but who knows... Just my two cents, don't take this seriously.

sptsailing said:

I thought about it and decided to stick with stock. The DMF is designed to absorb mechanical shock, which reduces stress and wear on other components, like the transmission gears. Since I am not an automotive engineer, I decided to keep it stock and hope the replacement Sachs DMF is not as crappy as the one it replaced. I might be wrong, but I also might be right. Who knows for sure?

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I replaced my DMF at 50k. Used the Sachs VR6 w balanced SMF flywheel from Bora (I think it was around $350 for everything.) Was installed by our own Hevster for a very reasonable similar fee.

Yes, it does rattle in neutral at idle. Nothing that bothers me though. It also is easier to drive, has more clamping force, and is likely bulletproof. I wouldnt worry about the mechanical shock either - in the VR6 package that job is transferred to the springs on the clutch disk.