Timing Belt Kits

Hey All,
Foolishly or not, I am going to try and tackle my first timing belt replacement myself! Of all the kits out there, one of them (https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/038198119ubr-bew/) includes:
OEM Thermostat — 044121113
OEM Thermostat Housing — 038121121D
I don't see these being included with any other timing belt kits. Is this a component that should be replaced once in a while as well? Just wondering why it would be included in a timing belt kit.
Also, any other components in the timing belt vicinity I should be checking while I am doing this repair? If so, what signs should I look for specifically? I don't have a mechanic's experience to automatically know if some part I come across isn't performing as it should. Thanks.

Forgot to mention that my car is a 2004 VW JETTA TDI BEW. Most important piece of info and I left it out...

Thermostats do slowly degrade over time, and when you do the timing belt you have the cooling system mostly drained, so I am someone who will replace the t-stat when I do timing belt, particularly if I've noticed it's slowly starting to wear out and open early (all my cars have a Scangauge that shows me actual coolant temp).

And, if you replace the t-stat you often need a new housing... it tends to warp over time and it's common to break off the little fingers that hold the new t-stat in place. And they're cheap...

Make sure your timing belt kit has engine mount bolts (they are single use), and some replace the serpentine belt since they already have it off.

lardope,
I trust you've read this
http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
and perused more than a few TB threads. ...and watched some videos.
Also, might as well swap out the coolant temp sensor since your
coolant will be drained anyway.

Yes, occasionally the thermostat should be replaced and when you do the timing belt you drain the coolant as well. That makes it a good time to replace the thermostat.
The housing is included because they tend to break when removed, or they're just old.

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STDOUBT said:

lardope,
I trust you've read this
http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
and perused more than a few TB threads. ...and watched some videos.
Also, might as well swap out the coolant temp sensor since your
coolant will be drained anyway.

Click to expand...

^^This

Read that .pdf... print it out, put it in a notebook, read it through a few times (it makes excellent bathroom reading).

Definitely watch some videos. There are several on youtube. Some of them are pretty good... some cut corners... but they give you the visuals that would otherwise leave you scratching your head.

When you get to doing the TB job, go through the notebook step by step and check off each individual one as you go. Then go through it backwards when putting 'er back together (check everything off again).

You must MUST use the lock tools... the metal nerd set is worth every penny.

FWIW, it took me about 18 hours over 3 days to do the job. (I also r/r'd my intake for cleaning.) Anyone can do the TB if they are meticulous and take their time.

What year is your car?

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Here’s another good writeup. Though you’ll have to pay for access to the 3rd and final part. It’s worth the nominal amount.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/...nt-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-beetle-1998-2003-part-1/

As has been mentioned take your time, check, double check and triple check. My first belt took 8-10 hours over 2 evenings. The metalnerd tools are worth the money, especially if you plan on doing more of these engines. There are work arounds for the tools but then you have to be even more vigilant something doesn’t move.

I actually have come to enjoy changing a belt, my BEW will be due in late October or early November. Changing the thermostat and housing is a good idea. Idparts has a “high mileage “ kit that includes those parts I think, but they are not oem. However they do have oem available.

Make sure the cam sprocket has been broken loose when you are tensioning the belt. Remember the tensioner turns clockwise. Do not use the lock tools to hold the cam while you break the sprocket loose or you’ll break the slot out of the cam on the far end. I usually do the hammer and punch method to pop it loose.

When you take the motor mount loose make sure the weight of the engine on that side is fully supported by a jack or engine support bar. If you do not, when you loosen those big steel bolts you will strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. Likewise when reinstalling them jack the engine up and turn those bolts in with your fingers all the way and then put a wrench on them to torque them to spec.

Should I buy the Bentley?

Do people recommend buying the Bentley repair manual as an additional resource if I get stuck? Or are the .pdfs and youtube videos out there sufficient? This will be the biggest car repair project I've ever undertaken. Previously, the most intense project I've done myself is replacing the oil pan. Thanks!

STDOUBT said:

lardope,
I trust you've read this
http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
and perused more than a few TB threads. ...and watched some videos.
Also, might as well swap out the coolant temp sensor since your
coolant will be drained anyway.

Click to expand...

Thank you, yes, I am reading that as well as watching multiple youtube videos!

Bengoshi2000 said:

^^This
Read that .pdf... print it out, put it in a notebook, read it through a few times (it makes excellent bathroom reading).
Definitely watch some videos. There are several on youtube. Some of them are pretty good... some cut corners... but they give you the visuals that would otherwise leave you scratching your head.
When you get to doing the TB job, go through the notebook step by step and check off each individual one as you go. Then go through it backwards when putting 'er back together (check everything off again).
You must MUST use the lock tools... the metal nerd set is worth every penny.
FWIW, it took me about 18 hours over 3 days to do the job. (I also r/r'd my intake for cleaning.) Anyone can do the TB if they are meticulous and take their time.

Click to expand...

Yes, I am definitely studying a lot the videos and pdfs. And yes, I am definitely buying the metal nerd set!
As for time, I have the luxury of devoting an unlimited amount of time as I am currently unemployed. So, I am setting the expectation that it will take me at least 3 days, maybe more with all the head scratching I’ll be doing ; )

WildChild80 said:

What year is your car?
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Click to expand...

2004 BEW

Tdijarhead said:

Here’s another good writeup. Though you’ll have to pay for access to the 3rd and final part. It’s worth the nominal amount.
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/...nt-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-beetle-1998-2003-part-1/
As has been mentioned take your time, check, double check and triple check. My first belt took 8-10 hours over 2 evenings. The metalnerd tools are worth the money, especially if you plan on doing more of these engines. There are work arounds for the tools but then you have to be even more vigilant something doesn’t move.
I actually have come to enjoy changing a belt, my BEW will be due in late October or early November. Changing the thermostat and housing is a good idea. Idparts has a “high mileage “ kit that includes those parts I think, but they are not oem. However they do have oem available.
Make sure the cam sprocket has been broken loose when you are tensioning the belt. Remember the tensioner turns clockwise. Do not use the lock tools to hold the cam while you break the sprocket loose or you’ll break the slot out of the cam on the far end. I usually do the hammer and punch method to pop it loose.
When you take the motor mount loose make sure the weight of the engine on that side is fully supported by a jack or engine support bar. If you do not, when you loosen those big steel bolts you will strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. Likewise when reinstalling them jack the engine up and turn those bolts in with your fingers all the way and then put a wrench on them to torque them to spec.

Click to expand...

Awesome! Thank you for the encouragement. I have no idea what “make sure the cam sprocket has been broken loose” means … yet. But now I will make sure I find out.

For ALH cars this tool works insanely well

If the cam sprocket is similar or the same as an ALH it'll work great

Yes I've used the hammer and punch method, just not the biggest fan of it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EBUXEIA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

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Your 2004 BEW is a PD and not at all the same procedure as the ones referenced in this thread. Yours requires different lock tools for the crank and cam and the belt is wider.

Here's some info to look over:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BEW_timing_belt_procedure.pdf

dogdots said:

Your 2004 BEW is a PD and not at all the same procedure as the ones referenced in this thread. Yours requires different lock tools for the crank and cam and the belt is wider.
Here's some info to look over:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BEW_timing_belt_procedure.pdf

Click to expand...

Yeah... I was wondering about that in regards to some of the info in this thread. My fault for not clearly stating my car info. Mostly, the .pdf you reference is the one I am looking at in addition to the various YouTube videos.

Ahh a BEW. Those are somewhat easier and less time consuming than the alh engine. Again since you’ve already been pointed to the write up on this site. Here’s the myturbodiesel write up.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/...oval-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-new-beetle-mk4-part-1/

Replacing Thermostat Looks Tricky

Vince Waldon said:

Thermostats do slowly degrade over time, and when you do the timing belt you have the cooling system mostly drained, so I am someone who will replace the t-stat when I do timing belt, particularly if I've noticed it's slowly starting to wear out and open early (all my cars have a Scangauge that shows me actual coolant temp).
And, if you replace the t-stat you often need a new housing... it tends to warp over time and it's common to break off the little fingers that hold the new t-stat in place. And they're cheap...
Make sure your timing belt kit has engine mount bolts (they are single use), and some replace the serpentine belt since they already have it off.

Click to expand...

So I took your advice (and that of the other response that recommending replacing the thermostat), and purchased a new thermostat and thermostat housing as well. But after watching this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD6m34P3rDU

I must say, this looks a lot trickier than I would have thought. I'm more nervous about this then doing the timing belt! He's doing things to get the air out of the hoses (massaging hoses?) and the coolant circulating properly that I don't particularly understand. Any advice you can give me?

Recommend the Bentley Guide as Resource?

Tdijarhead said:

Ahh a BEW. Those are somewhat easier and less time consuming than the alh engine. Again since you’ve already been pointed to the write up on this site. Here’s the myturbodiesel write up.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/...oval-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-new-beetle-mk4-part-1/

Click to expand...

Do you recommend the Bentley manual as a resource for doing this? Or now that we're in the era of online write-ups and youtube videos, that should be sufficient for the average person?

The Bentley is a great resource, I think I have a copy on a thumb drive someone gave me. I believe I’ve only looked at it once. I’m not much on scrolling when I’m working and I’d rather have a paper copy.

Sometimes I think that between this site and myturbodiesel the information is better than the Bentley. Many have complained of the Bentley having a few errors.

That said you can probably get along without it. As far as the thermostat replacement goes I’ve done several and never (so far) had a problem. My first thought was that the video was a gasser engine and they do have air lock problems, but I see he’s working on a diesel.

Take your time be methodical don’t cut any corners and you’ll be fine on the thermostat and the timing belt. You will have to take the water pump out for replacement when you do the belt and the water pump is right behind the thermostat so you’ll already have the engine drained as much as you need it’ll be an easy job at that point.

lardope said:

I must say, this looks a lot trickier than I would have thought. I'm more nervous about this then doing the timing belt! He's doing things to get the air out of the hoses (massaging hoses?) and the coolant circulating properly that I don't particularly understand. Any advice you can give me?

Click to expand...

IMHO that video makes the job look 1000% more complicated than it really is.

1) with the front end up in the air, remove the belly pan
2) unbolt the vacuum reservoir and move it out of the way. You now have a clear view and easy access to the t-stat bolts
3) with a drain pan under the car, use pliers or the nice clamp tool to disconnect the large rad hose from the t-stat housing and drain as much coolant as you can
4) using a short 1/4" 10mm socket, 1/4" swivel joint, and 1/4" extension, remove the two bolts holding the t-stat housing onto the block.
5) re-positioning the drain pan to be directly under the t-stat housing, pull the t-stat housing out. The t-stat will probably stay stuck in place.
6) using a screwdriver or pliers tug on the t-stat and pull it out... more coolant will gush out.
7) clean the t-stat mount to remove any rust
8) insert the new t-stat and o-ring into the new t-stat housing... the little fingers hold it in place... and then install the t-stat and housing as a unit
9) bolt everything back together, re-install the hose
10) do the timing belt, changing out the water pump (system is already mostly drained...yay!)
11) slowly add coolant back into the coolant tank... letting it drain into the block
12) start the engine, let it run up to temp with the coolant tank cap off, topping up as required
13) check the level again after the car has sat overnight and is stone-cold

No need to squeeze hoses or otherwise mess around with "bleeding" the system... it is self-purging. No need to fear this, and you'd have to do the filling step anyways after a timing belt since you drain the coolant either way.

Hope that helps.

I like to use my Mity-Vac to pull vacuum on the coolant return line to the expansion bottle while refilling. That will get 95% of the air out of the system before you turn the key.

In my mind the trickiest parts are the variances in replacement kits. Some use torque to yield fasteners, others do not. Make sure you know what you are getting in your kit.