borjawil
Veteran Member
I have another thread regarding my running issue and its been narrowed to a few things, however, I thought a separate thread specifically for the injector questions would be helpful for other searching specifically for this information.
06 BRM 240K miles - Loss of power and stumbling on the hwy all of a sudden. Idling very rough, and shaking the entire car.
VCDS showed a code for cyl #2 misfire. block 013 showed 2.99 values for cyl #2. #4 showed 3.01, however it would changed at different testing sessions. Sometimes 1.5ish, but recently is pegged at 3.01. This leads me to believe a wiring issue is likely with fluctuation unless someone can confirm that this may happen with an injector.
Wiring Testing
The inner injector harness is known to fail or have bad connection at the connector pins. I have checked continuity and/ohms from injector connectors disconnected and connected to the outside round injector plug. All read at .5 ohms. No cross continuity. Checked from outside round injector plug (disconnected) to ECU plug (disconnected), all .5 ohms, and no cross continuity. Through research I have seen testing at the injector connectors (connected) with the round plug disconnected, and checking for resistance. I wanted to confirm that .5 ohms is the reading for a good injector solenoid. If there is another value, range, or way to test let me know. I also learned with all wiring connected, with key on, that the injector connectors should read 2.4V.
Q1) The injectors are wired on the ground side? So the brown wire at the round plug feeds power to all of the injectors and is a common wire between them. Should I probe at the injector connectors and to a ground? Should this be done with the connectors disconnected at the injectors?
Q2) When tensioning the injector connectors, how is this done properly? I personally took a small pick and on the female side (harness side) pushed the prong towards the opposite side that is lays. I also sprayed with contact cleaner and applied new electrical grease.
Injector installation/checking
I swapped my cam about 40k ago, and I dont remember but im pretty sure U never reset my injector lash. I have now done this, with some change to my 2 good readings, however, #2 and #4 cyl have not changed. I have read several times to tighten the hold down bolts for the injector to make sure its seated and reevaluate the issue youre having.
Q1) I have also read not to over tighten the hold down bolts as they do not seat the injector, rather the copper seal at the bottom and lightly tapping the injector into place seats/seals it. thoughts on this?
Q2)Ive read two different values for injector hold down bolt torque. 9ft/lbs and 270? degrees further or 3/4 turn past the 9lbs. Ive also seen 15ft/lbs.
Q3) The rocker hold down bolts are through the manual said to be TTY bolts and should be replaced, however, multiple sources say they can be reused as they do not stretch much at all. The injector hold down bolts do stretch and should be replaced. Can these be replaced with hardened bolts of the same size (6mmx1.0x64/65mm)? If not why?
Q4) I have not seen the orings or copper seal at the bottom of the injector. What are the sizes and types required? Say Im in a pinch and need to source immediately rather than ordering. Is the copper seal at the bottom like a brake banjo bolt copper washer? Are the O-rings regular black ones or are they another color rated for oil, fuel, etc.?
Thanks for sticking with me this far! Hopefully this will answer a lot of questions I have sought out when diagnosing my issue. For anyone interested in setting the injector lash, check out franks write up. Note that one thing I got confused with is that the injector spring is compressed when the adjustment is made. The set screws is then turned until it stops, not when it contacts the top of the injector/spring.
06 BRM 240K miles - Loss of power and stumbling on the hwy all of a sudden. Idling very rough, and shaking the entire car.
VCDS showed a code for cyl #2 misfire. block 013 showed 2.99 values for cyl #2. #4 showed 3.01, however it would changed at different testing sessions. Sometimes 1.5ish, but recently is pegged at 3.01. This leads me to believe a wiring issue is likely with fluctuation unless someone can confirm that this may happen with an injector.
Wiring Testing
The inner injector harness is known to fail or have bad connection at the connector pins. I have checked continuity and/ohms from injector connectors disconnected and connected to the outside round injector plug. All read at .5 ohms. No cross continuity. Checked from outside round injector plug (disconnected) to ECU plug (disconnected), all .5 ohms, and no cross continuity. Through research I have seen testing at the injector connectors (connected) with the round plug disconnected, and checking for resistance. I wanted to confirm that .5 ohms is the reading for a good injector solenoid. If there is another value, range, or way to test let me know. I also learned with all wiring connected, with key on, that the injector connectors should read 2.4V.
Q1) The injectors are wired on the ground side? So the brown wire at the round plug feeds power to all of the injectors and is a common wire between them. Should I probe at the injector connectors and to a ground? Should this be done with the connectors disconnected at the injectors?
Q2) When tensioning the injector connectors, how is this done properly? I personally took a small pick and on the female side (harness side) pushed the prong towards the opposite side that is lays. I also sprayed with contact cleaner and applied new electrical grease.
Injector installation/checking
I swapped my cam about 40k ago, and I dont remember but im pretty sure U never reset my injector lash. I have now done this, with some change to my 2 good readings, however, #2 and #4 cyl have not changed. I have read several times to tighten the hold down bolts for the injector to make sure its seated and reevaluate the issue youre having.
Q1) I have also read not to over tighten the hold down bolts as they do not seat the injector, rather the copper seal at the bottom and lightly tapping the injector into place seats/seals it. thoughts on this?
Q2)Ive read two different values for injector hold down bolt torque. 9ft/lbs and 270? degrees further or 3/4 turn past the 9lbs. Ive also seen 15ft/lbs.
Q3) The rocker hold down bolts are through the manual said to be TTY bolts and should be replaced, however, multiple sources say they can be reused as they do not stretch much at all. The injector hold down bolts do stretch and should be replaced. Can these be replaced with hardened bolts of the same size (6mmx1.0x64/65mm)? If not why?
Q4) I have not seen the orings or copper seal at the bottom of the injector. What are the sizes and types required? Say Im in a pinch and need to source immediately rather than ordering. Is the copper seal at the bottom like a brake banjo bolt copper washer? Are the O-rings regular black ones or are they another color rated for oil, fuel, etc.?
Thanks for sticking with me this far! Hopefully this will answer a lot of questions I have sought out when diagnosing my issue. For anyone interested in setting the injector lash, check out franks write up. Note that one thing I got confused with is that the injector spring is compressed when the adjustment is made. The set screws is then turned until it stops, not when it contacts the top of the injector/spring.